N/A NSX Passing porsches w/ Billy Johnson

Joined
10 August 2006
Messages
761
Location
Ft. Lauderdale FL, Philly PA & Portugal
I wanted to take a moment to Thank Billy Johnson as my instructor yesterday at Homestead, he is just absolutely a thrill to learn from and ride along with him he has proved to me that a lightweight full interior street setup NSX with nothing but bolt-on modifications approximate 330hp @ crank and 280whp can still be a very capable track machine and as fast as 100K+ cars today.
We where pulling consistent 1.1 to 1.2 lateral G's on Billy's fancy Motec Data logger (see pic.. red line is billy's 1:41, black line is my 1:44)

I was completely astonished at what the times we where achieving in a non-professionally set up street car. not corner balanced, just plain alignment. No non-compliance parts. Plus considering me nor the car has been to a track day in the past 2-3 years.

By the end of the day we were passing GT3's and 911 Turbo's
I ran a best of 1:44
Billy ran a best of 1:41 and only drove a couple laps, he could probably get into the 1:39's without me in the car (thank god) which is insane fast.

For reference newer 911 turbos and GT3's run these kind of times with experienced drivers and the full time race cars are running 1:36-1:38's
http://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-gt3-forum/637512-homestead-lap-times.html

Notice around 3:15 were coming off 100+mph and while slowing down around .8-.9 G lateral at 80-90mph and Billy's telling to accelerate!

The red 911 GT3 we passed a was a 2008 3.6L, the black 911 Turbo we followed for the last lap and passed at the end was a modified 2005 turbo.

My car right now has a power to weight ratio of approximately 7.55 P/W which is about the same as stock GTR but with 1400lbs weight advantage.
Similar to CTSC NSX but with a significant weight advantage in turns and braking zones and no heat soak.

Although some older 911's out there where novices and we pass them easily but the track times don't lie, an lightweight N/A NSX is still very capable machine.
Without all the modern technology that takes away from the driving experience No-ABS No-traction control no fancy PDK and Not even Power steering.

I may just continue to reduce weight down to 2400lbs without losing interior or A/C and see if I can squeeze another 10rwhp to get down to a 7 power to weight ratio. For reference a stock type R assuming 335hp /295rwhp comes 8.1 power to weight ratio, I'm pretty sure its as fast or likely faster overall than a real TYPE-R by now.

The best part about this is it still looks like a normal street car, No significant weight savings is apparent inside or out and car still shows beautifully for weekend drives and car shows.

Thank you for the experience Billy!
Hope to do this again after I apply all your advice and make the recommended adjustments to the current setup, I hope where both 2 seconds faster each next time.


<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/fhOm7Tt6vQ0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

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haha that is a very typical response...lots of hpde folks never know how much the driver matters ,and keep tweeking the car....You are fortunate to have had billy who is very communicative[without a chatterbox]....The few times I have had in car coaching or followed some pros was priceless in helping me go faster
 
@Patricio: Awesomeness. What's your weight loss program ? And do you run Infinity ECU ?

Had a similar experience at Spa, we were running along a Porsche club, most of them were very unconfident thus running slow. At some point i was following a Carrera GTS, i could see the rear end drift ever so slightly in the fast curves (which i understand can be unsettling), while i was comfortable enough with the A/C on :) One GT3 was running very fast though, by someone who was really knowing what he was doing. That makes all the difference in the world, much more than even a 100whp difference. (also that GTS seemed very heavy ?)
 
Nice video. Could still use a lil boost/power in the straights. Cornering looks great.
 
Billy was absolutely awesome!
he must have some big cohones by pushing me to go faster. I'd be scared sht-less, and would be telling people to slow down.



@Patricio: Awesomeness. What's your weight loss program ? And do you run Infinity ECU ?

Had a similar experience at Spa, we were running along a Porsche club, most of them were very unconfident thus running slow. At some point i was following a Carrera GTS, i could see the rear end drift ever so slightly in the fast curves (which i understand can be unsettling), while i was comfortable enough with the A/C on :) One GT3 was running very fast though, by someone who was really knowing what he was doing. That makes all the difference in the world, much more than even a 100whp difference. (also that GTS seemed very heavy ?)

My weight loss program, is similar to any Type-R or GT3. Keep only the essentials including A/C and all the interior panels and base amenities power windows power locks ect. I really have focused on not removing anything that is visible, to maintain the OEM appeal of an NSX. and not do anything that is not reversible to OEM later, no cutting nor drilling holes ect...

Yes I installed the AEM infinity, we did not see any gains up top over the chipped ecu, but did gain about 5whp in the mid range, The best part about the AEM was correcting the rough idle the RDX chip left me with, and that in itself was worth it. The 2 step launch control is cool but have not tried it, the fail-safes are great, oil pressure, oil temp and fuel pressure will all be displayed on the NAV pod once i install the gauge art display that I have not gotten around to.... the next step may be to tune the available traction control.

<a href="http://s172.photobucket.com/user/tiago3/media/NSX%20weight%20reduction%20oct%202015.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w15/tiago3/NSX%20weight%20reduction%20oct%202015.png" border="0" alt=" photo NSX weight reduction oct 2015.png"/></a>


Looks like fun. Did Billy comment on how you hold the shifter? Especially 3->4 shifts. Just curious.
lol.. I do shift from 3rd to 4th funny to avoid money shifts. But the answer is no, he never mentioned it at all.
once u money shift a 911 engine and costs you 20k and 6 months to get your engine back from a pain in the ass rebuilder you may develop a unusual way of making sure you go into 4th at after redline of 3rd instead of 2nd by accident and over revving the engine by 3000 rpm




Nice video. Could still use a lil boost/power in the straights. Cornering looks great.

as far as boost, i may delay the turbo install a little more since I am enjoying the new setup, I have the AEM infinity installed already and I have all the turbo parts ready to install. but I'm gonna hold off a little more and refine the handling and my own skills a little more... I think boost on the track can make allot of drivers a little lazy learning how to improve ability since they can just overpower other cars in the straights regardless of actual driving skill.
 
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I wonder why nobody asked yet what tires the NSX had and what tires the other cars had? There are alot of seconds difference from street tire to semislicks. About 4 Seconds on 1:40 minutes.
 
I wonder why nobody asked yet what tires the NSX had and what tires the other cars had? There are alot of seconds difference from street tire to semislicks. About 4 Seconds on 1:40 minutes.

I'm on Nitto NT01
235/40/17
275/35/18

the black 911 996 turbo with red wheels was also NT01
the red 911 997 gt3 was on hoosier R6
this is a porches club of America DE track event, lots of people are on aggressive tires. MPSS would likely be the lowest performance common tire.

The lap time is posted and also according to the rennlist link showing relative laptimes... most newer 911's turbos and GT3's with experienced drivers ect run 1:39 - 1:44.... the real race cars in events run 1:36-1:37 on race rubber...

FWIW: Billy ran a best of 1:41 on NT01 after only 3 complete laps and hardly knowing weather my street car was really safe to push or not, thus I very much doubt he was really pushing it (thank god since I'd crap myself) and without making any adjustments to my normal street alignment nor corner balancing nor suspension adjustments on my old Tein-RE coilovers and with me inside the car, I weigh 190lbs were at 7.5 power to weight thus 190/7.5 = 25 hp penalty/slower equivalent with me as passenger
therfore it is very realistic to belive billy could run 1:39's with current tires and without me as a 190lbs passenger ... or maybe even 1:38's on hoosier R6. That's completley amazing! I believe I could likely get to 1:42 after the same setup refining and no passenger and more experience

I hope no one takes this post as bragging about my car individually, Sure of course I am happy with the outcome.... but I'm really just showing prospective owners or current owners considering buying something newer/faster just how "weekend track day" capable the N/A NSX really can still be while still retaining the same creature comforts common to any GTS or GT3 comparable car... Air Conditioning and full interior power locks and windows ect..... And overcoming the many nay-sayers on the forum that claim anything you change on the nsx just makes it handle worse. Which is not true, If anyone watches the G graph closely on video we where sustaining 1-1.1 G consistently transitioning from braking to turn-in to apex on many turns and also at high speed coming off the back straight holding .9 - 1 lateral G's at 100-70 mph I really never thought a street NSX could do that.

I would like to see more owners taking the type-R weight reductions to the next level along with all the bolt-ons.
 
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My weight loss program, is similar to any Type-R or GT3...

Absolutely Fantastic Patricio!

I Love the lightweight/NA route... so for me your NSX is near perfection! :wink:

If you are after every weight reduction bit, you can add to your list Comptech Adjustable Cam Gears for -3,77 lbs (rotational weight); a 95+ STARTER MOTOR ASSY (31200-PR7-J01) for -2,00 lbs, a Billet Sport Engine Mount (Right Side) to go with your billet alternator bracket - ?,?? lbs; Carbon 6 XP Tie Rod -1,21 lbs :biggrin::biggrin::wink:

sorry for the off topic, but you mentioned a lighter Honda alternator on your planned weight reductions, I came across HONDA ACCORD 2.7 V6 ALTERNATOR (31100-P0G-A02 or 31100-P0G-A03), but i'm not sure if it will work, what do you have in mind? can you share? This would be rotational weight reduction too!

Thanks

Bruno
 
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Absolutely Fantastic Patricio!

I Love the lightweight/NA route... so for me your NSX is near perfection! :wink:

If you are after every weight reduction bit, you can add to your list Comptech Adjustable Cam Gears for -3,77 lbs (rotational weight); a 95+ STARTER MOTOR ASSY (31200-PR7-J01) for -2,00 lbs, a Billet Sport Engine Mount (Right Side) to go with your billet alternator bracket - ?,?? lbs; Carbon 6 XP Tie Rod -1,21 lbs :biggrin::biggrin::wink:

sorry for the off topic, but you mentioned a lighter Honda alternator on your planned weight reductions, I came across HONDA ACCORD 2.7 V6 ALTERNATOR (31100-P0G-A02 or 31100-P0G-A03), but i'm not sure if it will work, what do you have in mind? can you share? This would be rotational weight reduction too!

Thanks

Bruno

Muinto obrigado!
I thought I had found almost all the weight reductions but those I was not aware of!
will add those for sure, especially the cam gears they may free up 1 or 2 horses!

The lightweight alternator details I'll have to research which one I have, it came used with the aluminum bracket i bought that belonged to and was custom made by whrdnsx from Australia. see pics. I've heard its from a civic though. I will install it over next couple weeks, the manifold needs to come off for install. i will find the part number. You can also check out any pics you can find of the spoon nsx engine they also have a similar bracket and smaller alternator

The real weight savings I am working on developing will come from a redesigned composite or CF intake manifold & throttle body, may save about 25-30lbs since the OEM complete assembly weighs 35lbs and should gain power for various reasons in addition to improved flow, since composites and CF are have substantially less thermal conductivity than aluminum, we will see drastically lower intake tempertures, we also know high end RPM gains are to be had just based on elimination of the multiple flow paths and limitations of the nsx oem manifold and we hope to design it with decent flow. but even with OK flow the intake temperature reduction alone should make some power and massive weight reduction to the highest up and heaviest item on the nsx engine will improve various areas and save motor mounts from the pendulum effect it has on the motor now.. just a 30lb weight reduction alone at 7.5 p/w is about 4hp equivalent.)

By the way, so de Santarem. :)

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Now my NSX is at about 1190kg (~2600lbs) with full tank of gasoline w/o me in the car. When I did corner weighting the car 1/2 year back, we found out, that it is nearly perfect. Here is the link to my car with mods and pics. Realy nice times btw compared to the other cars!

We did some dynoruns with closed VVIS and working VVIS on stock ECU with I/H/E. I have the dyno sheets somewhere but you would loose massive low end power when nor using the VVIS System. What I remember it is about 10hp and lots of tourque up to ~5k rpm when the system acitvates.

I guess all the NSX with 2002+ R conversion are about the same like mine +/- a few kg to left/right/front/rear difference.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/189800-The-quot-austrian-type-R-quot-NSX
 
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Now my NSX is at about 1190kg (~2600lbs) with full tank of gasoline w/o me in the car. When I did corner weighting the car 1/2 year back, we found out, that it is nearly perfect. Here is the link to my car with mods and pics. Realy nice times btw compared to the other cars!

We did some dynoruns with closed VVIS and working VVIS on stock ECU with I/H/E. I have the dyno sheets somewhere but you would loose massive low end power when nor using the VVIS System. What I remember it is about 10hp and lots of tourque up to ~5k rpm when the system acitvates.

I guess all the NSX with 2002+ R conversion are about the same like mine +/- a few kg to left/right/front/rear difference.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/189800-The-quot-austrian-type-R-quot-NSX

I am familiar with your car from these forums, since have read allot of your posts and threads over the years some of them twice :) searching for more ideas, and I admire your build very much.
Your car setup was one of the cars that has inspired me.

I've researched the manifold, and yes the OEM manifold is difficult to improve on, but that's the problem... it just needs to go completely. DMS has proven there is power to be made overall. But there manifold is still aluminum and does not benefit from the drastically reduced thermal properties of Carbon fiber nor is it as light weight as it could be for an N/A car. Thus why allot of new cars have composite plastic intake manifolds it not just for the bling, its weight and thermal properties. The advantage to the DMS or aluminum will be for high boost as its likely a proper aluminum manifold will hold more PSI than a composite one. I will design mine to hold at minimum 1psi for N/A which will be easy, and even 8-10psi limits should be attainable on composite or CF, but for high PSI aluminum will be the only alternative I imagine.

With thermal improvements i think the mid range hp loss can be reduced or eliminated but the high hp gains 5000-8000rpm should be worth it.

I seriously believe due to the Japanese hp agreement, Honda went though overly drastic measures to improve low end TQ since we all know the motor itself was capable of well over 50hp more. The manifold forces air to go down through the hottest area before going up and around like a amusement park ride. As individual throttle bodies show the real gain is just finding the right design and completely eliminating the OEM all together.
 
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I am familiar with your car from these forums, since have read allot of your posts and threads over the years some of them twice :) searching for more ideas, and I admire your build very much.
Your car setup was one of the cars that has inspired me.

Oh, wow thanks man, makes me a bit proud too. :D

btw: what offset on the fronts you have with yout ce28n 8x17 and have you rubbing on your fenderliners when going over curbs, bumps or on ful lock? If the fenderliners are removed, do you have rubbing on the chassie as well? thanks
 
Oh, wow thanks man, makes me a bit proud too. :D

btw: what offset on the fronts you have with yout ce28n 8x17 and have you rubbing on your fenderliners when going over curbs, bumps or on ful lock? If the fenderliners are removed, do you have rubbing on the chassie as well? thanks

My front 8x17 are +35

i do have some rubbing occasionally in parking lots and curbs as u mention which does not bother me, but maybe less than some people experience since my fender liners have been rubbed down over the years from running 225 on 18" front for a long time.
At the track and normal streets, highway ect they do not rub, them again I'm not very lowered either
I still need to do some of the adjustments in the fender that are mentioned on this site like reducing the pinch weld and heating up the plastic liners a bit to open up more space.
 
The lightweight alternator details I'll have to research which one I have, it came used with the aluminum bracket i bought that belonged to and was custom made by whrdnsx from Australia. see pics. I've heard its from a civic though. I will install it over next couple weeks, the manifold needs to come off for install. i will find the part number. You can also check out any pics you can find of the spoon nsx engine they also have a similar bracket and smaller alternator

I'm curious to see how the smaller alternator will work with you... I've Contacted spoon in the past regarding the alternator bracket + smaller alternator you can see my posts here (posts 760; 761 and 763):

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...hread/page31?p=1861848&viewfull=1#post1861848

foundry3 will be offering the lightweight bracket on the near future!:

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...nquiry/page3?p=1856453&viewfull=1#post1856453

The real weight savings I am working on developing will come from a redesigned composite or CF intake manifold & throttle body, may save about 25-30lbs since the OEM complete assembly weighs 35lbs and should gain power for various reasons in addition to improved flow, since composites and CF are have substantially less thermal conductivity than aluminum, we will see drastically lower intake tempertures, we also know high end RPM gains are to be had just based on elimination of the multiple flow paths and limitations of the nsx oem manifold and we hope to design it with decent flow. but even with OK flow the intake temperature reduction alone should make some power and massive weight reduction to the highest up and heaviest item on the nsx engine will improve various areas and save motor mounts from the pendulum effect it has on the motor now.. just a 30lb weight reduction alone at 7.5 p/w is about 4hp equivalent.)

Very interesting!


By the way, so de Santarem. :)

It's a small world! I'm from Viana do Castelo (north of Portugal)
 
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It was a fun day and great to meet and work with you Patricio! Unfortunately the camera didn't work during your best laps or my laps.

Looks like fun. Did Billy comment on how you hold the shifter? Especially 3->4 shifts. Just curious.
He didn't consistently use the 'back-hand' technique and since my co-driver (who has won the 24 Hours of LeMans, 24 Hours of Daytona, and 12 Hours of Sebring) shifts like that, I don't feel there's anything wrong with it.

0.02
 
My front 8x17 are +35

i do have some rubbing occasionally in parking lots and curbs as u mention which does not bother me, but maybe less than some people experience since my fender liners have been rubbed down over the years from running 225 on 18" front for a long time.
At the track and normal streets, highway ect they do not rub, them again I'm not very lowered either
I still need to do some of the adjustments in the fender that are mentioned on this site like reducing the pinch weld and heating up the plastic liners a bit to open up more space.

Loving this thread, planning on doing some of your weight reductions this winter when i tear down for paint! What exactly do you mean by "custom carpet?" Also did you make your own aluminum bumper beams or go with the procar CF parts? Is there sound deadening material other than what's under the seats that you removed? Last question, where are you getting your lexan from, plastics4performance? Sorry for so many questions! haha
 
About the Alternator. Ever checked this out. For us who removed the AC ;)

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...t-Alternator-Relocation-Kit-Checking-Interest

That;s a great mod, But since I live in Florida I will not ever be taking out the A/C on a street car, even if it would save me an easy 50-60lbs putting me below 2450lbs
it gets hot out here, and the wife will never get into the car again!

I'm curious to see how the smaller alternator will work with you... I've Contacted spoon in the past regarding the alternator bracket + smaller alternator you can see my posts here (posts 760; 761 and 763):

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...hread/page31?p=1861848&viewfull=1#post1861848

foundry3 will be offering the lightweight bracket on the near future!:

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...nquiry/page3?p=1856453&viewfull=1#post1856453



Very interesting!




It's a small world! I'm from Viana do Castelo (north of Portugal)

Ill keep you posted on how the alternator works,
I am hoping it works since i still have most of the electric amenities to power like A/C and a google nexus tablet in the Navpod, power windows and locks ect..

It was a fun day and great to meet and work with you Patricio! Unfortunately the camera didn't work during your best laps or my laps.


He didn't consistently use the 'back-hand' technique and since my co-driver (who has won the 24 Hours of LeMans, 24 Hours of Daytona, and 12 Hours of Sebring) shifts like that, I don't feel there's anything wrong with it.

0.02

Hey Billy, Thanks again!
Actually my best of 1:44 is on that video
The harry lap timer data came thorough on your lap just the not the video (see pics)
Billy you where pushing 1.2G on a few turns!
here is the data from your 1:41 on the map
green is up to 1G, yellow is up to 1.1G, red is 1.2G
Although your motec is more accurate and has more data overall, I also really like the harry's map because the thickness of the colored area represents the amount of force relative to GPS map track position. (thin green = less G, thicker green = more G)

For newbies we can see how progressively car and driver can progressively transition into 1G to 1.1G to 1.2 and back out.

I recommend Harry's Lap timer to any one who can to do some runs with an real mid engine experienced instructor.
Then in addition to learning on course, you can analyze the data and actually see on the map exactly where your weaknesses or strengths are and figure out if your trying to turn hard too early or too late, and understanding the transition of the colors relative to turn in points, braking points ect.

For the data geeks out there that want to see billy's awesome driving data:

you can see how he holds more G in turn 1 (thicker green)
he held more G in turn 2 (yellow 1G to 1.1G)
held less G's through turn 3 (on that run)
Same overall G through turn 4 but his peak 1.2G (red) is held longer
more G longer in turn 6
Turn 7 and 8 same total G but you can see how his green to yellow transitions more smoothly than mine, last longer and his final onto straightway green to straight is a smoother curve.
Turn 10 he hits over 1G at over 100 mph! (I am not ready to do that! lol)
Turn 12 he does not need to turn as many G's (again, he has better line is smoother, thus faster)


I am in no way as capable as him obviously, and this is a great tool to learn to use to see the dynamics in action and compare effective of modifications,
I'm sure if billy did a few more laps by himself towards the end of day with more confidence that my my car or brakes would not fall apart on him these graphs would get wild with red 1.2G in all tu.

Billys 1:41
<a href="http://s172.photobucket.com/user/tiago3/media/Screenshot_2015-10-28-06-44-57.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w15/tiago3/Screenshot_2015-10-28-06-44-57.png" border="0" alt=" photo Screenshot_2015-10-28-06-44-57.png"/></a>

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My 1:44

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Loving this thread, planning on doing some of your weight reductions this winter when i tear down for paint! What exactly do you mean by "custom carpet?" Also did you make your own aluminum bumper beams or go with the procar CF parts? Is there sound deadening material other than what's under the seats that you removed? Last question, where are you getting your lexan from, plastics4performance? Sorry for so many questions! haha

Hey there are three carpet mods out there,
one -10bs is you can easily peel off by hand in less than 15 minutes the heavy fabric padding under the oem foot area of the carpet it weighs about 6 lbs per side
Two -12lbs just cut out only carpet under the mats and seat and just use your mats on the street, none will see anything but your mats anyway, you can paint floor black if you want
three 10-12lbs frederico sells the red carpet kits, if you specifically email him and request him to make his carpet it WITHOUT the rubber backing it is 10-12lbs lighter than OEM, this is how the real NSX-R carpet is.... its not just red, it has absolutely no rubber backing. that stuff heavy more soundproof than the oem carpet and overall its 2-3lbs heavier than oem carpet.

I do not have any lexan yet, but there are various suppliers i will see if i can find and post.
the center divider anyone can make, but I'm not sure if i'm ready to increase the cabin sound because of my insanely loud taitec gt009 9lbs (including cat delete exhaust)
If i switch to a more normal exhaust i will switch out the divider window to lexan.
For now I'd like to keep the wife happy in the car.

Great video Tiago!

Thanks bro,
I need your help making the CF intake!
 
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That;s a great mod, But since I live in Florida I will not ever be taking out the A/C on a street car, even if it would save me an easy 50-60lbs putting me below 2450lbs
it gets hot out here, and the wife will never get into the car again!



Ill keep you posted on how the alternator works,
I am hoping it works since i still have most of the electric amenities to power like A/C and a google nexus tablet in the Navpod, power windows and locks ect..



Hey Billy, Thanks again!
Actually my best of 1:44 is on that video
The harry lap timer data came thorough on your lap just the not the video (see pics)
Billy you where pushing 1.2G on a few turns!
here is the data from your 1:41 on the map
green is up to 1G, yellow is up to 1.1G, red is 1.2G
Although your motec is more accurate and has more data overall, I also really like the harry's map because the thickness of the colored area represents the amount of force relative to GPS map track position. (thin green = less G, thicker green = more G)

For newbies we can see how progressively car and driver can progressively transition into 1G to 1.1G to 1.2 and back out.

I recommend Harry's Lap timer to any one who can to do some runs with an real mid engine experienced instructor.
Then in addition to learning on course, you can analyze the data and actually see on the map exactly where your weaknesses or strengths are and figure out if your trying to turn hard too early or too late, and understanding the transition of the colors relative to turn in points, braking points ect.

For the data geeks out there that want to see billy's awesome driving data:

you can see how he holds more G in turn 1 (thicker green)
he held more G in turn 2 (yellow 1G to 1.1G)
held less G's through turn 3 (on that run)
Same overall G through turn 4 but his peak 1.2G (red) is held longer
more G longer in turn 6
Turn 7 and 8 same total G but you can see how his green to yellow transitions more smoothly than mine, last longer and his final onto straightway green to straight is a smoother curve.
Turn 10 he hits over 1G at over 100 mph! (I am not ready to do that! lol)
Turn 12 he does not need to turn as many G's (again, he has better line is smoother, thus faster)


I am in no way as capable as him obviously, and this is a great tool to learn to use to see the dynamics in action and compare effective of modifications,
I'm sure if billy did a few more laps by himself towards the end of day with more confidence that my my car or brakes would not fall apart on him these graphs would get wild with red 1.2G in all tu.

Billys 1:41
<a href="http://s172.photobucket.com/user/tiago3/media/Screenshot_2015-10-28-06-44-57.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w15/tiago3/Screenshot_2015-10-28-06-44-57.png" border="0" alt=" photo Screenshot_2015-10-28-06-44-57.png"/></a>

<a href="http://s172.photobucket.com/user/tiago3/media/Screenshot_2015-10-28-06-44-19.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w15/tiago3/Screenshot_2015-10-28-06-44-19.png" border="0" alt=" photo Screenshot_2015-10-28-06-44-19.png"/></a>

<a href="http://s172.photobucket.com/user/tiago3/media/Screenshot_2015-10-28-06-43-38.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w15/tiago3/Screenshot_2015-10-28-06-43-38.png" border="0" alt=" photo Screenshot_2015-10-28-06-43-38.png"/></a>



My 1:44

<a href="http://s172.photobucket.com/user/tiago3/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-10-28-07-01-42.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w15/tiago3/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-10-28-07-01-42.png" border="0" alt=" photo Screenshot_2015-10-28-07-01-42.png"/></a>

<a href="http://s172.photobucket.com/user/tiago3/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-10-28-06-46-48.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w15/tiago3/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-10-28-06-46-48.png" border="0" alt=" photo Screenshot_2015-10-28-06-46-48.png"/></a>






Hey there are three carpet mods out there,
one -10bs is you can easily peel off by hand in less than 15 minutes the heavy fabric padding under the oem foot area of the carpet it weighs about 6 lbs per side
Two -12lbs just cut out only carpet under the mats and seat and just use your mats on the street, none will see anything but your mats anyway, you can paint floor black if you want
three 10-12lbs frederico sells the red carpet kits, if you specifically email him and request him to make his carpet it WITHOUT the rubber backing it is 10-12lbs lighter than OEM, this is how the real NSX-R carpet is.... its not just red, it has absolutely no rubber backing. that stuff heavy more soundproof than the oem carpet and overall its 2-3lbs heavier than oem carpet.

I do not have any lexan yet, but there are various suppliers i will see if i can find and post.
the center divider anyone can make, but I'm not sure if i'm ready to increase the cabin sound because of my insanely loud taitec gt009 9lbs (including cat delete exhaust)
If i switch to a more normal exhaust i will switch out the divider window to lexan.
For now I'd like to keep the wife happy in the car.



Thanks bro,
I need your help making the CF intake!

Hey bud. Just wanted to let you know I recently did the lexan parition window. Had a local glass place do it. Was around $200 total but only $30 for the lexan piece! I didn't get to weigh the lexan but the stock glass only weighed about 8.5lbs on a bathroom scale. Road noise isn't very different.

Question, have you removed the srs wiring and ecu? I'm considering it but don't want a light or any other problems if I do. Any help is appreciated
 
Very nice weight savings. Sorry if you already said it and i missed it, but do your numbers include fuel and driver? Do you have a build thread?
 
Hey bud. Just wanted to let you know I recently did the lexan parition window. Had a local glass place do it. Was around $200 total but only $30 for the lexan piece! I didn't get to weigh the lexan but the stock glass only weighed about 8.5lbs on a bathroom scale. Road noise isn't very different.

Question, have you removed the srs wiring and ecu? I'm considering it but don't want a light or any other problems if I do. Any help is appreciated

thats great!
yes, I've considered it, I just think it may be too much noise in the cabin because of the taitec gt009 with cat delete is very loud, since i already did allot of the type-r style sound deadening removal, if i get a not so loud exhaust ill consider the lexan partition mod.

I have a custom lightweight carpet with no rubber backing & removed the undercoating under the seats and fire wall and even the entire chassis under bottom of the car like a type-r

no actually i still have the srs wiring on the driver side. only took out the sensors on the passenger side.



I am now working on a few original NSX custom weight reduction mods since im just not satisfied with what is out there on the market and no one has invented anything new in long time besides power adders and cosmetic bits.

almost done fabricating the custom Carbon fiber intake manifold -25lbs, just waiting for testing. Oem manifold with TB was 32lbs new one is 7.5 lbs
Also hoping to gain a few horses in the upper RPM range, this one is designed for 7000rpm peak power compared to the oem manifold appeared to have been tuned for 4000rpm peak power. (based on theoretical calculations)

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...nifold/page2?p=1882934&viewfull=1#post1882934

<a href="http://s172.photobucket.com/user/tiago3/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151226_185728.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w15/tiago3/Mobile%20Uploads/20151226_185728.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20151226_185728.jpg"/></a>

and making a full carbon kevlar underbody areo all the way front splitter to rear diffuser will add 10-15lbs but way better than the 50-80lbs full under-trays usually weigh..
<a href="http://s172.photobucket.com/user/tiago3/media/20160108_180515.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w15/tiago3/20160108_180515.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20160108_180515.jpg"/></a>

now starting work on a carbon fiber frame for a lexan hatch -20lbs total hatch with CF frame.
and a Carbon fiber trunk lid with built in spoiler supports that are similar to type R spoiler but 2-3 inches higher and adjustable. -15lbs

I've decided it doesn't look like people mare making anything new anymore so if i want ill have to fabricate it.


Very nice weight savings. Sorry if you already said it and i missed it, but do your numbers include fuel and driver? Do you have a build thread?

I never did a build thread, I was not active on the site for quite few years until few months ago. I will put together a build thread soon.

it was 2518 with just under a half tank of gas, and with heavier than stock 25lb each 235/40/17 - 28lb each 275/35/18 Nitto nt01's
here a link to corner balancing and some details of the weigh.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...hread/page32?p=1881649&viewfull=1#post1881649
 
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It was a fun day and great to meet and work with you Patricio! Unfortunately the camera didn't work during your best laps or my laps.


He didn't consistently use the 'back-hand' technique and since my co-driver (who has won the 24 Hours of LeMans, 24 Hours of Daytona, and 12 Hours of Sebring) shifts like that, I don't feel there's anything wrong with it.

0.02

Sorry this is off topic. Billy who is your co-driver?
 
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