NA injector upgrades

[L_RAO]

I can't find it on the DAL website (the archived one) where they mention destroying the engine via too much cam gear adjustment.

I have asked around about the iVTEC/VTC conversion - the biggest engineering obstacle is to convert the timing belt drive system into a chain belt. In addition, you would definitely need to convert to an AEM EMS ($$$). In the end, it will definitely be a lot cheaper to build/drop in a built K24...plus you'd lose like 300 pounds on the back end.

They can be adjusted on the dyno. DAL Motorsports did this, then went to far on the dyno and destroyed an engine.

Hence, my previous thread inquiring about adopting VCT from the newer Honda's onto our old engine:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?t=152764

Gains on a boosted S2000 engine were impressive to say the least.

Dave

 

[Mac Attack]

I can't find it on the DAL website (the archived one) where they mention destroying the engine via too much cam gear adjustment.

I have asked around about the iVTEC/VTC conversion - the biggest engineering obstacle is to convert the timing belt drive system into a chain belt. In addition, you would definitely need to convert to an AEM EMS ($$$). In the end, it will definitely be a lot cheaper to build/drop in a built K24...plus you'd lose like 300 pounds on the back end.

It's about the last ten sentences on Section #25 Cam Gears here:
http://ojas.net/nsx/mirror/dal#Cam Gears

IMO, the $800 spent for adjustable cam gears could go into the customization costs for this VTC conversion.

I already have a Series 2 AEM... That's why I still have this idea on the back burner:smile: Still need to do more research on the costs involved, but I'm positive this can be done!

Dave

 

[L_RAO]

Have you tried contacting the shop that did the iVTEC conversion (they call it the "electronic cam sensor upgrade")?

Also, where are you getting adjustable cam gears for $800? I've only found them for $1095 at SoS and CTE...

 

[Mac Attack]

More info on the conversion here:
http://www.designcraftfab.com/online-store/category/6/development-parts/electronic-cam-system

Of course, conversion to chain, or conversion of the VTC sprockets to belt would also be required.

Haven't contacted them because I'm out of money for my build :redface:

 

[greenberet]

I have been making plans to have my cams dialed in on an engine dyno...

In that link to DAL Motorsports in Mac Attack’s post above, they stated, “…you will need to experiment on an engine dyno, or listen to advise from someone you trust.” Personally, I’ve been planning on choosing the easier of the two options and simply listening to Shad Huntley’s and Jon Martin’s advice. Experimenting on an engine dyno would, of course, be the much cooler path to take. If you’ve been making plans to take that route, have you gotten a feel for how many hours it would take an expert to carry out the experiments?

Dont't forget to insert the nwe LMA style when the engine is out ... When do you think you will do all the mods?

I’ve already bought the new style LMAs and a whole laundry list of other OEM parts and hope to get everything installed and dialed in before putting the car into storage over the winter.

 

[L_RAO]

I figure it will take 8 hours to do everything, and that includes removal from car, hookup to the dyno, testing/tuning, and putting it back in the car. They said it could be done in 4 hours, but I'm figuring in a 100% fudge factor.

When that happens, I will simply rent out the dyno for the whole day. I might get a pricing break in exchange for free publicity, but labor isn't free.

Also, my initial feelings are that you should try your best to truly dial in your cam gears, instead of just retarding and calling it a day. I've had plenty of cam gears adjusted on B-series, and every engine responds a little differently based on the other supporting mods...so as to the "2 degrees" across the board...YRMV...

In that link to DAL Motorsports in Mac Attack’s post above, they stated, “…you will need to experiment on an engine dyno, or listen to advise from someone you trust.” Personally, I’ve been planning on choosing the easier of the two options and simply listening to Shad Huntley’s and Jon Martin’s advice. Experimenting on an engine dyno would, of course, be the much cooler path to take. If you’ve been making plans to take that route, have you gotten a feel for how many hours it would take an expert to carry out the experiments?



I’ve already bought the new style LMAs and a whole laundry list of other OEM parts and hope to get everything installed and dialed in before putting the car into storage over the winter.

 

[greenberet]

It makes sense that simply retarding all four camshafts by 2° from OEM specs wouldn’t allow me to find my particular engine’s "sweet spot". Based on my discussions with Shad Huntley and Jon Martin, who have degreed lots of NSX camshafts in performance engine builds, it seemed like a good idea though.

In that DAL Motorsports website, they stated, “Degreeing the cams on the NSX is very taxing” and takes 3-4 hours. From their description, that’s 3-4 hours for one adjustment of the intake and exhaust camshafts. If your shop can drop the rear subframe, separate the engine from the transmission, mount the engine on a dyno, remove the timing belt covers, install and adjust the cam gears, do a dyno run, adjust the intake and exhaust camshafts again separately, do another dyno run and keep repeating the process until they have found the intake and exhaust camshaft “sweet spots” for your individual engine, and then put everything back together and reinstall it in your car all within four hours, I bow down before them in awe!

Edit: I just called a company that builds professional rally cars. They said it would take them at least a week of full time work to remove the engine from the car, wire it up to be able to run on their engine dyno, carry out multiple cam gear adjustments and dyno runs to find the “sweet spot” for the intake and exhaust camshafts, and put everything back into the car. They’d gladly do it, but it would cost at least EUR 8,000 (USD 10,400). It would be a lot cheaper to ship my car to California, have your guys dyno tune the cam gears in four hours, and ship the car back to Europe!

 

[Mac Attack]

I wonder if a moderator could split this thread up. I think it has plenty more discussion to go just on cam gears and timing!


Yeah, I don't see how anyone could do what L_RAO is describing in 4 hours. I would say the quckest would be 4 hours to remove the engine and set it up on the dyno, 4 to reinstall, and another 4 hours to adjust. Like DAL states, you have to rig up a device to pressurize and ensure VTEC is engaged too.

I'm guessing this would take two full days.

 

[greenberet]

The company I called that builds rally cars pointed out twice that wiring the engine up on an engine dyno will take some time. Based on what they said, they’d have to either:

1. remove the wiring loom and PGM-FI from the car so that the engine can run outside of the engine compartment
2. build a new wiring loom with connectors for all the OEM sensors, hook that up to a standalone EMS, calibrate the EMS for the OEM sensor values, and set up the fuel and ignition tables
3. hook up new sensors to a standalone EMS

And then there’s the time to adjust the cam gears in the proper sequence several times to find the “sweet spot” for the intake and exhaust camshafts. Ideally, it would be good to adapt the fuel and ignition tables to the various cam gear adjustments to make sure you are really finding the best possible camshaft settings for your individual engine.

Properly degreeing the intake and exhaust camshafts on an engine dyno will surely get you the best results. I just wish someone here in Europe could do it in the time quoted by the guys in California. I doubt anyone on this side of the Atlantic has already built a wiring loom and standalone EMS for a C30A engine that they can just pull out of a drawer. Actually, I'd be surprised if anyone over here has ever adjusted the four cam gears of a C30A on an engine dyno.

 

[A.S. Motorsport]

The company I called that builds rally cars pointed out twice that wiring the engine up on an engine dyno will take some time. Based on what they said, they’d have to either:

1. remove the wiring loom and PGM-FI from the car so that the engine can run outside of the engine compartment
2. build a new wiring loom with connectors for all the OEM sensors, hook that up to a standalone EMS, calibrate the EMS for the OEM sensor values, and set up the fuel and ignition tables
3. hook up new sensors to a standalone EMS

And then there’s the time to adjust the cam gears in the proper sequence several times to find the “sweet spot” for the intake and exhaust camshafts. Ideally, it would be good to adapt the fuel and ignition tables to the various cam gear adjustments to make sure you are really finding the best possible camshaft settings for your individual engine.

Properly degreeing the intake and exhaust camshafts on an engine dyno will surely get you the best results. I just wish someone here in Europe could do it in the time quoted by the guys in California. I doubt anyone on this side of the Atlantic has already built a wiring loom and standalone EMS for a C30A engine that they can just pull out of a drawer. Actually, I'd be surprised if anyone over here has ever adjusted the four cam gears of a C30A on an engine dyno.

How are you taking advantage on the higher quality EU fuel in final tune?
I recall Austria having 100 or 105 octane fuel available.
95 octane is the European minimum 98 is widely available.
Are you already working with insulating your intake manifold trough plastic insulators to eliminate heat soak?


Back on topic the CR-Z injectors are cheap (code 16450-RTW-A01)
Volumetric efficiency nearly 75 hp @ 6000RPM per liter (75hp/l)

NSX is roughly 93 hp/l altough that is at 8000 rpm
Actual flow ratings is what we need to progress in comparing RDX vs Hybrid

New Acura ILX would be most interesting since those have the latest lean burn MPI/PGMFI engines.
New RLX and NSX will be running direct injection. (that could add 10-15%)


On topic of the I-Vtec conversion like on the S2000 it's very interesting but would be very hard.
Chain drive should be doable although pointless investment when going that far I'd say go dryslump first.

 

[A.S. Motorsport]

Other interesting question for the NA interested.
How important is torque and torque curve for you guys?

Personally, It's important for me to retain low end torque as much as possible.

 

[A.S. Motorsport]

I can't find it on the DAL website (the archived one) where they mention destroying the engine via too much cam gear adjustment.

I have asked around about the iVTEC/VTC conversion - the biggest engineering obstacle is to convert the timing belt drive system into a chain belt. In addition, you would definitely need to convert to an AEM EMS ($$$). In the end, it will definitely be a lot cheaper to build/drop in a built K24...plus you'd lose like 300 pounds on the back end.

Why bother with a K24 its a four banger, a awesome I4 but still it's not worthy of a NSX in my eyes.

I did make a calculation on a tall deck "hybrid" 4.0L and 4.3L V6 NSX a year or two ago.
it wouldn't be that high revving but have huge amount of torque and much smoother than the current setup.
Doable but would take a long time and upwards of 10k

Further on that subject a ultra high revving 3.3L short deck engine is very possible and would be relatively cheap. (very over square, short stroke)
Not my style since it would not have great low end torque I didn't make in-depth calculations, guessing 10k rpm or more.

Other interesting option would be if one where to have a NSX chassis with out a engine is a J36 or J37 with a 6spd LSD transmission.

You'd easily pump 350 hp for $2-$3k (albeit low revving at 6.5k with SOHC)

 

[L_RAO]

I would beg to differ.

The K-series features the latest engineering features in a Honda performance motor. We're not just talking about any I4; this is the greatest production I4 ever offered.

K20/24 vs. B/C or J36/37

• roller camshaft, roller rockers
• timing chain
• better port design
• iVTEC/VTC
• DOHC (vs. SOHC of the J36)
• much improved coil-on-plug system
• much improved ECU with aftermarket support/potential

There are K motors making 170 wHP/liter out there on pump gas; the 3.5L ITB'd / Toda C cammed SoS motor is making 114 wHP/liter, and I believe that's on E85.

 

[A.S. Motorsport]

I would beg to differ.

The K-series features the latest engineering features in a Honda performance motor. We're not just talking about any I4; this is the greatest production I4 ever offered.

K20/24 vs. B/C or J36/37

• roller camshaft, roller rockers
• timing chain
• better port design
• iVTEC/VTC
• DOHC (vs. SOHC of the J36)
• much improved coil-on-plug system
• much improved ECU with aftermarket support/potential

There are K motors making 170 wHP/liter out there on pump gas; the 3.5L ITB'd / Toda C cammed SoS motor is making 114 wHP/liter, and I believe that's on E85.

The SoS motor is not on E85 just regular AKI 91.
Also it isn't running TODA cam's but regrinds.

All J-Motors above 3.0L have Coil on Plug later J35Z and J37A feature dual intake exhaust V-Tec.

J-Engines are dirt cheap you can pick up your base engine running for $700-900! a OEM 3.7L conversion runs about $1000

Modular manifolds and forged OEM pistons in various comp ratios.
Even better there are AEM kits available.

HPD (aka Honda Racing) run's J engines in 2.8L trim with twin turbos in it's ALMS and LMS Le Mans prototype cars based of production J-Engine the HR28TT pushes 600HP in restricted race trim, it does that reliably in 24 Hour racing.

Don't get me wrong K's are awesome and by far the best I4 ever. but there is no replacement for displacement, the sheer torque a V6 would make the car far more drive-able.
Although the drawback of the J-Series is high RPM ability I don't see them going over 7K RPM with out extensive modification.

Talking about displacement:
K 2-2.4L in OEM iirc max would 2.6 or 2.7 if you'd bore & stroke
J 2.5-3.7L in OEM, no one has to my knowledge maxed the block out i'd expected well in to the 4L range to be possible.
C 2.5-3.5L in OEM, (C32B max is 3.9L) a tall deck hybrid DOHC engine could run to 4.3L a short deck would run max 3.3L

Plus! the new NSX and Legend engines will be based of the J but then in Direct injection possibly even DOHC, if with some modification the old J's could be out fitted with the new heads it would be a immense upgrade, that is however pure speculation.

 

[greenberet]

How are you taking advantage on the higher quality EU fuel in final tune?
I recall Austria having 100 or 105 octane fuel available.
95 octane is the European minimum 98 is widely available.
Are you already working with insulating your intake manifold trough plastic insulators to eliminate heat soak?

I was planning on putting 100 RON fuel in the tank before the car goes on the dyno.

You’re right – fuel with an octane above 100 RON is available at public filling stations here in Austria. However, I enjoy doing road trips with my NSX and still want to be able to fill up the tank in Italy. Do you know how far the NSX’s knock sensors can pull ignition timing to adjust for low octane fuel? Could I program my PGM-FI for 105 RON fuel and still fill 95 octane into the tank without worries?

I wasn’t planning on installing an aftermarket insulator gasket between the cylinder heads and the intake manifold. Since the mating surface between the two isn’t at a right angle to the airflow, there can be only one gasket thickness that results in smoothest intake runner walls without sharp edges sticking into the airflow. And I assume that thickness is OEM. Have you looked into which thickness is best? If the thickness that gets you the smoothest walls is not OEM, I’d be interested in installing new gaskets as long as they are made of a material that doesn’t “cold flow” over time when bolted into place under pressure. Pure Teflon, for example, insulates well but it squishes like jello in slow motion so I wouldn’t want that cold flowing into the intake runners over time. Phenolic would be good and according to Prospeed, that’s what the OEM gasket is already made of.

The SoS motor is not on E85 just regular AKI 91.
Also it isn't running TODA cam's but regrinds.

I think L_RAO was referring to this engine. When making 114 wHP/liter it did run E85 and Toda camshafts although SoS said the camshafts were made to “custom specifications”. SoS’s “Stage 3” naturally aspirated engine now seems to have Toda Type C camshafts as an option when running especially high octane fuel.

 

[A.S. Motorsport]

I was planning on putting 100 RON fuel in the tank before the car goes on the dyno.

You’re right – fuel with an octane above 100 RON is available at public filling stations here in Austria. However, I enjoy doing road trips with my NSX and still want to be able to fill up the tank in Italy. Do you know how far the NSX’s knock sensors can pull ignition timing to adjust for low octane fuel? Could I program my PGM-FI for 105 RON fuel and still fill 95 octane into the tank without worries?

I wasn’t planning on installing an aftermarket insulator gasket between the cylinder heads and the intake manifold. Since the mating surface between the two isn’t at a right angle to the airflow, there can be only one gasket thickness that results in smoothest intake runner walls without sharp edges sticking into the airflow. And I assume that thickness is OEM. Have you looked into which thickness is best? If the thickness that gets you the smoothest walls is not OEM, I’d be interested in installing new gaskets as long as they are made of a material that doesn’t “cold flow” over time when bolted into place under pressure. Pure Teflon, for example, insulates well but it squishes like jello in slow motion so I wouldn’t want that cold flowing into the intake runners over time. Phenolic would be good and according to Prospeed, that’s what the OEM gasket is already made of.



I think L_RAO was referring to this engine. When making 114 wHP/liter it did run E85 and Toda camshafts although SoS said the camshafts were made to “custom specifications”. SoS’s “Stage 3” naturally aspirated engine now seems to have Toda Type C camshafts as an option when running especially high octane fuel.

You could run multiple maps in sequence, I'd need to ask my computer specialist but you'd be able to select a map in the car whilst running iirc.
Although! a highly tuned 100 car would run into problems on 95 if you where to run 7k -8k rpm, so the dual tune is a good idea.
My mechanic used to have a WRX, swapped bigger turbos, and ton of other supporting stuff that car required 98 fuel. he sold the car the buyer wanted to save fuel and ran 95 it messed the whole car up.
Although Subaru's are fragile cheaply build compared to any Honda.

Further more on the phenolic, the increase in density is worth the small flow increase iirc it's 1% or 5% per 10F lets say for ease of estimation
Other option would be to shave the intake flange and add a plastic spacer to compensate.

Best of all would be a cast plastic manifold. I've played around with the idea for a cast plastic C-Series manifold but that isn't going to be a profitable venture.
Isolating the current is much better idea.

The IM base is like 1.5 to 1 cm thick roughly if you shave 2,5 mm or maybe even 3.3 mm add that as a spacer + compensation for gasket it's going to be easy.
Although your flange and injector mounts will be weakened.

 

[A.S. Motorsport]

Other point, constantly tuning the cam and intake to run higher and higher will effect the car in a negative way for a road car, even for a race car on certain tracks.

If you keep hunting down that path you'll and up with ether a sportbike or a F1 car.
Which isn't what the NSX was intended for.

You don't want to be slipping your clutch to 2k rpm or downshifting every hill.

If you increase power beyond flywheel 130-140 hp/l your going JGTC aka 14k rpm
Did SoS build a 3.5L punching nearly 500 flywheel on street fuel? i do recall that

What I always am looking for is a proper balance.
On my main daily driver (legend) i really appreciate the torque it makes it's very important certainly in a large cruiser.

The fact becomes even more apparent if you drive a Z06 the HP should be backed up by usable torque in my view.

So personally I'd favor a 3.8L NSX over a 3.5L even if i head to sacrifice slight power or red line.

 

[greenberet]

... a highly tuned 100 car would run into problems on 95 if you where to run 7k -8k rpm ...

OK. My car is tuned for 93 (R+M)/2 fuel right now (about 98 RON) and I never use full throttle or high revs if I’ve had to fill it up with 95 RON in Italy. If I tune it for 100 RON I’ll be even more careful. Opening up the PGM-FI housing to swap chips for low octane fuel is not something I want to deal with.

... the increase in density is worth the small flow increase iirc it's 1% or 5% per 10F ...

A cooler intake charge is definitely good. If you disrupt the intake flow to achieve that, it’s not so clear whether it will still be beneficial. I think a cool intake manifold is most important if you’re accelerating from a standstill. Before the throttle is open, the air flows through the manifold slowly and has lots of time to warm up. So for standing start acceleration runs, maybe it’s more important to have a cool intake manifold, even if you have to disrupt the airflow a little to achieve that.

During top speed runs, the engine is inhaling air so fast that I doubt it has time to warm up a lot. At 8000 rpm and full throttle, a 3 liter engine inhales about 200 liters of air per second. If an NSX’s intake manifold has a volume of about 6 liters (just a guess), the air is in there for about 0.03 seconds. You could probably calculate how much the air warms up in those 0.03 seconds given the manifold's temperature and surface area. In any case, for top speed runs it may be more important to have a smooth flow (and to be inhaling cool air from outside the engine compartment) than to reduce the temperature of the manifold by 10°F.

The ideal would be a cool manifold that flows well, of course. That’s an interesting idea to shave down the magnesium. I wonder how far you could go before compromising the flange strength. Then CNC machine a phenolic spacer with the right and angles and thickness to line up the intake runners perfectly and you’d have the best of both worlds. As long as the flange doesn’t crack!

What I always am looking for is a proper balance.

By degreeing your cam gears on an engine dyno you can find the balance that best meets your personal preferences given your individual engine. Do you know anyone in Europe that could do that for less than the price of a new small car?

 

[A.S. Motorsport]

OK. My car is tuned for 93 (R+M)/2 fuel right now (about 98 RON) and I never use full throttle or high revs if I’ve had to fill it up with 95 RON in Italy. If I tune it for 100 RON I’ll be even more careful. Opening up the PGM-FI housing to swap chips for low octane fuel is not something I want to deal with.

I'm talking about electronic switching i drew up a schematic once for parallel ECU's that should work in theory as well (whilst driving)

I recall a guy some one running parallel chips with a C35A hybrid engine.
I'd need to ask the ECU guru on how that would be programed.

A cooler intake charge is definitely good. If you disrupt the intake flow to achieve that, it’s not so clear whether it will still be beneficial. I think a cool intake manifold is most important if you’re accelerating from a standstill. Before the throttle is open, the air flows through the manifold slowly and has lots of time to warm up. So for standing start acceleration runs, maybe it’s more important to have a cool intake manifold, even if you have to disrupt the airflow a little to achieve that.

During top speed runs, the engine is inhaling air so fast that I doubt it has time to warm up a lot. At 8000 rpm and full throttle, a 3 liter engine inhales about 200 liters of air per second. If an NSX’s intake manifold has a volume of about 6 liters (just a guess), the air is in there for about 0.03 seconds. You could probably calculate how much the air warms up in those 0.03 seconds given the manifold's temperature and surface area. In any case, for top speed runs it may be more important to have a smooth flow (and to be inhaling cool air from outside the engine compartment) than to reduce the temperature of the manifold by 10°F.

If you can manage to reduce the manifold by 20c (a rough 70F) your looking at about 20HP on a 300HP engine
But your point is very valid in how much practical use that has when driving in V-Tec as the flow rate is so high, although a manifold has a large contact area, that's where a plastic manifold would proof so much more superior.

The ideal would be a cool manifold that flows well, of course. That’s an interesting idea to shave down the magnesium. I wonder how far you could go before compromising the flange strength. Then CNC machine a phenolic spacer with the right and angles and thickness to line up the intake runners perfectly and you’d have the best of both worlds. As long as the flange doesn’t crack!

That should be doable.
even those flanges can be reinforced.

The intake manifold torque is just 22nm/16lb-ft

By degreeing your cam gears on an engine dyno you can find the balance that best meets your personal preferences given your individual engine.

Yes and no, your cam isn't the only factor here, runners and bellmouths make the bulk of that power/torque curve coupled with the exhaust manifold.

The whole package come's into play.
That's why i like the VISS system even more so how Honda Legend's use it as they do not only change there resonating frequencies but also physical runner length by about 20cm from stage 1 to stage 3

Do you know anyone in Europe that could do that for less than the price of a new small car?

Nope, it's hugely expensive.

 

[surferX]

Love the info in this thread but seriously the topic is supposed to be injectors. Focus people!

 

[greenberet]

... your cam isn't the only factor here, runners and bellmouths make the bulk of that power/torque curve coupled with the exhaust manifold.

I fully agree. The engine’s characteristics are determined by many factors and how the camshafts are degreed is only one of those factors. I meant that by dyno tuning the cam gears you can find the compromise / balance / "sweet spot" in that one factor that you prefer given the rest of the system. It’s too bad an NSX’s engine needs to come out to dyno tune the cam gears since that makes the process more difficult.

Love the info in this thread but seriously the topic is supposed to be injectors. Focus people!

Uh, and the injectors are another one of the factors that can impact an engine’s power delivery characteristics.:smile:

 

[A.S. Motorsport]

okay back on injector topic.

What can be done to upgrade.

Proven:
J-Series injectors (late model)
K23A Turbo RDX injectors (biggest, best atomization)

Theoretical:
Hybrid lean burn engines, Insight, CR-Z, ILX

K-car injectors are likely motorcycle based so i do not expect those injectors working in our ports.
I'd suspect Motorcycles to run high atomization although a lot run 2 sets of injectors per runner.

Custom Theory
Ruining dual high efficiency injectors split at '45 to '90 degree angle. (would require customized manifold or custom fab manifold and fuel rails)
Also this would only work if Motorcycle injectors from a sport bike prove to be more efficient.

 

[austrian type-R]

@ greenb.: I can rent you a wire harness with all the electronics from an parted out 1991 NSX if you like to get your engine on an enginedyno.

 

[A.S. Motorsport]

Nissan already developed a dual injector production prototype.

Custom setup for a K-engine.
I recall this one being from bisimoto.

I've seen it done on M3's as well.

Further on the Honda Motorcycle injectors;
I've heard of CBR injectors being used to upgrade other bikes also VTR injectors (SP1 & SP2)

SP2 has a 12 screen setup (right) left has a simple dual setup.

Keep in mind sport bikes run 200HP/L at 13k rpm (albeit on half the cylinder volume)
They got to have some serious flow and A/F ratio to support that
A NSX owner in the lower scale of NA tuning will be looking to get 97-100 HP/L
High end builds will want 130 HP/L

 

[greenberet]

I can rent you a wire harness with all the electronics from an parted out 1991 NSX if you like to get your engine on an enginedyno.

Thanks, I’ll check how much degreeing the camshafts on an engine dyno would cost if the wire harness, sensors, and PGM-FI computer were available. I just called the team but the secretary said the people who would know (including the guy I spoke to last time) are at a race in France until the middle of next week.

SP2 has a 12 screen setup (right) left has a simple dual setup.

Thanks for the pictures! Those 12-hole SP2 injectors remind me of the 12-hole RDX injectors.