Odd 90661-SL0-A01 Hose Clamp

[Old Guy]

I have been collecting parts for a planned coolant hose replacement which included a purchase of at least one replacement for every hose clamp in the cooling system. After taking a very slow boat from Japan to Canada, the parts arrived yesterday and I opened the package to confirm the contents. Everything was there; but, this part presented a bit of a mystery.

Honda 90661-SL0-A01 - CLIP, HEATER HOSE (30MM) | Partzilla.com

This is the hose clamp that is on the heater return pipe under the car. There are six of these 30 mm clamps on that return line. I have 'seen' the hose clamps; but, apparently did not pay attention to them because this clamp with its little red thing and clamp within a clamp construction is drawing a blank. I am assuming that the red clip is holding the clamp open for installation and that you remove the red clip (just yank it off ?) to allow it to clamp down on the hose. This does seem to beg the question as to why this red clip is necessary. Is it exceedingly difficult to hold the clamp open with conventional hose clamp pliers (the tabs break?). The double walled construction has me thinking that this may be a miserable thing to remove successfully and re install.

Its been a while since I read the various posts and Wiki articles on hose replacement; but, I don't recall any special mention of this clamp. Given its unusual design, if its probable that the clamp is going to be damaged during removal or reinstallation is going to be a problem I will order another 5 of the clamps. However, my preference is not to do this as the list price is around $19 per clamp. The other consideration is that aside from some motorcycles this clamp appears to be exclusive to the NSX so the chance of replacements being in stock is likely low. That suggests pre ordering from Amayama where the price is more reasonable ($5 range); but, the shipping costs have taken a big jump recently.

 

[goldNSX]

I've seen these red clips supplied with a Denso fuel pump. Time is money.

 

[Old Guy]

I've seen these red clips supplied with a Denso fuel pump. Time is money.

Time is money; but, that begs the question as to why time is money on just these particular clamps. The big ass clamps on the radiator hoses look like they could be a treat to remove and replace and might benefit from a similar treatment yet they are very conventional. If it is just a time issue and you can reuse the original clamps then I am fine with that.

 

[goldNSX]

Maybe only the supplier knows the secret. I've no clue. I've always reused them. I'd only change them if they're rusty.
I've changed the coolant hoses back in 2008 and it was a PITA, hope to have never do it again. Good luck!

 

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

It's partially due to the spec in JIS and JASO.
They specify so many things on the clamps including the diameter, pressure leak testing, repeated open/close fatigue, material, corrosion/surface treatment, circularity, etc, etc.

The one you are referring to is called the double plate type and at high clamp force.
This 'pull off' design is nothing special.
Used on other makes/models.

If this is the first time dealing with the coolant hose refresh, you will find the answer when you are going to remove these double plate clamps
especially the ones under the centre floor and below the coolant tank.

Due to its high clamp force, the necessity to point the sharp ear/tab away from other hoses and being used at the very limited space,
not easy using the ordinary hose clamp tool.
Thus, this 'pull off' design becomes handy.
Though at the factory, the assembly process was different.

If you are using the silicone compound, etc in assisting the hose installation, you can first install the clamp in a way that you can use the ordinary tool.
Then, just rotate the entire hose body to point the tab/ear away from other hoses.
Just make sure to release any twisting force around the hose body before completing the task.

Kaz

 

[Old Guy]

Kaz - thanks for the clarification.

Any suggestions on an appropriate tool for removal and re installation of the clamps? I had briefly tried this style of hose clamp plier on another car.

Qiilu Flexible Wire Long Reach Hose Clamp Plier Car Fuel Oil Water Hose Pipe Repairing Tool: Amazon.ca: Automotive

I returned them because I found them flimsy (the clamps kept popping out of the jaws) and the cable arrangement actually made access worse in some cases. All of this style of tool appeared to come from the same source, just with different brand names on the package and different color plastic for the handles.

 

[Big McLargeHuge]

I tried one of those style hose clamp things and it exploded within 5 minutes. They were Astro-Pneumatic branded. All you really need is a good set of needle-nose pliers of various lengths, maybe angled ones, and a long articulated one for the deeper buried clamps. The sharper/deeper the teeth on the pliers the better, otherwise they slip off easily. The clamp ends have to be compressed 100% to fit over the ridge on the pipe nipples.

I like the red clip on the 3-eared clamps, those were the easiest ones to install. Just position them and yank the red clip off, done. The largest clamps on the main hoses take a lot of force to install, I actually used channel-lock pliers for those to get more leverage.

 

[Old Guy]

Articulated pliers - as in these things?

Crescent Long Nose Double Joint Needle Pliers | The Home Depot Canada

There are also these things where the locking feature looks like it may have some value

Lisle 17000 Long Reach Universal Hose Clamp Pliers: Amazon.ca: Automotive

Looks like I get to add to my collection of tools that I have used at least once!

Based upon your comments, I may 'spring' for a purchase of the rest of the 90661 clamps used on the NSX to minimize the pain. If I order 5 the delivery cost from Amayama gets me down into the $6 per clamp range.

 

[Big McLargeHuge]

Yup, exactly. They're very useful for the buried clamps around the front heater and thermostat hoses, good to have for other misc jobs too.

I like the Lisle ones too. Might be bulky for some clamps but prevents the biggest annoyance which is the pliers slipping off the clamp ears. I've learned it's always worth it to buy the right tools before the job instead of trying to make do with what you have, I'm sure you can attest to that.

I think the new set of clamps is worth it. Maybe not from an expensive US vendor but Amayama makes the cost/benefit much more attractive. All the heater 3-eared clamps are pretty inaccessible so you'll thank yourself for minimizing the time spent with your back on cold concrete.

 

[Jerry@Mobile]

Hose replacement

I did the entire hose replacement about two years ago. For clamp removal and subsequent replacement I used a combination of pliers, lineman pliers, long nose needle pliers and 90 degree needle nose pliers. The job was not too bad to do, but I have a lift. I ordered an assortment of clamps, but found that the original ones were still in great shape. My next job is to replace the radiator with a new aluminum one just for peace of mind. Oh yeah, I have to replace the dreaded clutch button on the upper pedal. I have it bypassed for now. Jerry

 

[Creasian21]

i had to replace all my coolant and heater hose awhile back. My tip is that you get a small hose clamp that either has a flat head or 6 point that u can twist. I put the hose clamp around the ears of the hose clamps and twist adjustable hose clamp, this will compress the ears on the hose clamp.

 

[R13]

So I'm also missing some spring clamps including some of the afore-mentioned 30mm double thick clamps. Is there a legitimate concern using a generic 30mm clamp in those locations (same spring-style clamp, just single-wall), or is that more of a regulatory thing as per Kaz's comment. I didn't anticipate the preponderance of worm-drive clamps used on a previous replacement (I did most of the hoses last time, but a few were done elsewhere as "while you're in there"). The 30mms are on backorder. Everything else that was missing I've found suitable replacements for in both size and stock-thickness (so should be equivalent clamping force). These junctions have had worm drives on them for probably a decade, so logically I figured any constant pressure spring clamp of decent strength is probably an improvement.