Odd speaker issue...

[bizlipkick]

So... driver side speaker amp was popping when I purchased the car. Had it repaired, installed, both speakers are working fine. Today, while taking a left turn, I hear a pop from the passenger side, and then NO noise at all from the passenger side, regardless of how I adjust the fade. Left speaker works fine.

Here is the weird part, if I adjust the fade all the way over to the passenger side, and turn the volume up then down (rotating the knob very quickly back and forth)- when the knob is going counter clockwise, as in turning down, you can here normal sound from the passenger speaker, if only for a second. Soon as I stop rotating the knob, or turn it clockwise (as in turning the volume up) you can hear nothing out of the passenger speaker before. I would normally attribute this to the speaker being blown, but the weird behavior when messing with the knob leads me to believe it could be my oem head unit going out. Any thoughts? Thanks

 

[Jett]

Spounds like the floor amp is failing. My advice is to have both door speakers and floor amp rebuilt all at once and that should clear everything up. NSXPrime member Briank rebuilds these, and he is competent and reliable. You should contact him.

 

[NSX2398]

Spounds like the floor amp is failing. My advice is to have both door speakers and floor amp rebuilt all at once and that should clear everything up. NSXPrime member Briank rebuilds these, and he is competent and reliable. You should contact him.

+1 on Briank for rebuilds .. but not on your comment about the floor amp failing. The floor amp has absolutely nothing to do with the operation of either door speaker. It only drives the sub and the center rear speaker. Having said that, if you've just had the driver door amp fixed and suspecting the passenger one, then the floor amp is likely not far behind and if you're already sending the passenger side amp to Brian, it's not a lot of effort to get the floor amp out (much easier than the door ones) and send it too.

 

[bizlipkick]

+1 on Briank for rebuilds .. but not on your comment about the floor amp failing. The floor amp has absolutely nothing to do with the operation of either door speaker. It only drives the sub and the center rear speaker. Having said that, if you've just had the driver door amp fixed and suspecting the passenger one, then the floor amp is likely not far behind and if you're already sending the passenger side amp to Brian, it's not a lot of effort to get the floor amp out (much easier than the door ones) and send it too.

Yea, the driver side speaker/amp I just had Brian repair is now the only working speaker in the car. Apparently they "tagged" out when I replaced it haha

 

[NSX2398]

Although Brian does good work and I have used him in the past, if you're now looking at having the two remaining amps rebuilt, you basically have two choices. If you have limited funds; have no interest in upgrading your sound system; or think you'd prefer to stay with the OEM BOSE system, then Brian is your best bet. However, you may be interested to know that for a couple of hundred dollars more, you could probably convert to a single, central amp design instead of the BOSE 'distributed amp' design but continue to use the existing OEM speakers with the option to upgrade any of the speakers in the future. (you will have to open up all speaker enclosures and bypass the BOSE amps but you'll be able to use the existing speaker wiring for the doors). Typical locations for a central amp solution are either behind the driver's seat or in the trunk. Not trying to sway your thinking .. just providing information.

 

[comtec]

Although Brian does good work and I have used him in the past, if you're now looking at having the two remaining amps rebuilt, you basically have two choices. If you have limited funds; have no interest in upgrading your sound system; or think you'd prefer to stay with the OEM BOSE system, then Brian is your best bet. However, you may be interested to know that for a couple of hundred dollars more, you could probably convert to a single, central amp design instead of the BOSE 'distributed amp' design but continue to use the existing OEM speakers with the option to upgrade any of the speakers in the future. (you will have to open up all speaker enclosures and bypass the BOSE amps but you'll be able to use the existing speaker wiring for the doors). Typical locations for a central amp solution are either behind the driver's seat or in the trunk. Not trying to sway your thinking .. just providing information.

Be aware that factory Bose systems normally use a strange impedance like 1ohm to 3 ohm. Not sure what the NSX are.

Mike

 

[bizlipkick]

Although Brian does good work and I have used him in the past, if you're now looking at having the two remaining amps rebuilt, you basically have two choices. If you have limited funds; have no interest in upgrading your sound system; or think you'd prefer to stay with the OEM BOSE system, then Brian is your best bet. However, you may be interested to know that for a couple of hundred dollars more, you could probably convert to a single, central amp design instead of the BOSE 'distributed amp' design but continue to use the existing OEM speakers with the option to upgrade any of the speakers in the future. (you will have to open up all speaker enclosures and bypass the BOSE amps but you'll be able to use the existing speaker wiring for the doors). Typical locations for a central amp solution are either behind the driver's seat or in the trunk. Not trying to sway your thinking .. just providing information.

Yea, after talking with the wife, going to start researching new center console options (most likely going the SOS route, pre cut double din) and do an EXTREMELY mild stereo, IE double Din touch screen, new door speakers and thats it. I Ran an alpine single din powering 2 clarion 6.5's for 5 years in my s2000 and it worked pretty well for me, so something along that route is where I am heading.