Optima Yellow Top

[NSX-GT]

Hi all, the battery on my X has died, and I'm trying to get an Optima Yellow Top as a replacement. However, I went to Optima's site, and under car model (91 NSX) they only listed Optima Red Top. I could have sworn I saw some NSX's with yellow top.

Which part # Yellow Top will fit the NSX? Thanks in advance

 

[BB]

I have an Optima yellow top in my '91 and it fits fine using the factory battery box & clamps. I believe the D34 is the model you want. My battery says SC34DA for the Part #.

 

[NSX-GT]

Thank you very much

 

[robr]

i have a yellow top as well. i got into a big argument with the installer at sears (yeah, i know... they were the cheapest around though with their price matching policy). the installer insisted it wouldnt fit because the NSX wasn't on his list of cars for that battery. He kept trying to point out (in broken english) that the wires wouldn't reach the terminals. I pointed out that if he turned around the battery 180 degrees, they'd reach fine. I finally had to get a manager out there and tell the guy to just try it. No problems. I was already certain it would work thanks to prime .

 

[D'Ecosse]

Have one too, just reverse it as robr suggests - the top posts are only slightly off-center anyway. D34 is the model, but if you run accessories (audio etc) you could consider the D34/78 which also has auxiliay posts on the face (they will be at the back however) I just use the D34 however & am running 1000W of audio from it in addition to "normal" functions. Great Battery!

 

[Jim]

i have a yellow top as well. i got into a big argument with the installer at sears (yeah, i know... they were the cheapest around though with their price matching policy). the installer insisted it wouldnt fit because the NSX wasn't on his list of cars for that battery. He kept trying to point out (in broken english) that the wires wouldn't reach the terminals. I pointed out that if he turned around the battery 180 degrees, they'd reach fine. I finally had to get a manager out there and tell the guy to just try it. No problems. I was already certain it would work thanks to prime .

You let the guys at Sears touch your NSX?! j/k!

 

[socalx]

i have a red top in mine. For the red top you can get a 34 R (R is for reverse as in the posts are reversed to match the stock nsx location) so you don't have to put the battery in backwards. I did not want to put min in backwards as you would not have good access to the terminals that way.

Check to see if you can get a yellow top in revers (ie yellow top 34R) that would be perfect.

tom

 

[D'Ecosse]

..... I did not want to put min in backwards as you would not have good access to the terminals that way....

Check to see if you can get a yellow top in revers (ie yellow top 34R) that would be perfect....

There is no reverse yellow 34R.

Your other point about the not having good access is not valid - the terminals are only slightly off center - see here for more details & picture
Also see pics below comparing one with the other - you will se that the yellow when reversed has posts only 2" at most behind where the red's would be. (incidentally the orange is now red - no difference in the battery)

Bottom line is decide what kind of battery you need for your application, not whether it is reverse or not - if you want a starting battery, get the red/orange; if you want a deep-cycle get the yellow.

 

[Cairo94507]

Ken - I think that regardless of what I plan for our NSX, I am going to check with you first. You are dead-on on every post I have read!
Thanks for always taking the time to share your experience and knowledge.
Michael

 

[prova4re]

I have the Yellow top, I am on my 2nd one, the first one had a melt down when it came lose at high speeds. It fried my alarm, and sent the bracket into my rad.
Get the deep cycle battery, its worth the extra cost.

Ken is the MAN!!!! Keep up the good work.

 

[socalx]

not trying to get into an arguement here.

but.. the as it happens, the reason i found out that there was a 34 reverse was becuase i originally tried putting in a group 34 red top. while some here point to the fact that the posts are near the center on the optima battery, when i tried putting (the standard 34 series) in backwards i found that the posts where then tucked under the plastic shroud that is on the firewall above the battery and thus would be difficult to get to. Point being that either way can work, but in realaity the 34R fits better (if you don't believe me try both like i did, and then you will agree.) If you have high power stereo equipment or other requirements suited to deep cycle the yellow top might still be your choice. But for normal nsx use I think you would be more happy with the 34 reverse red top. As stated at the end of my original post i think a 34R yellow top would be great.

 

[D'Ecosse]

in realaity the 34R fits better (if you don't believe me try both like i did, and then you will agree

Better? Who cares to define better when the difference is insignificant - the yellow fits fine with no accessibility problems, as testified by BB, robr, prova4re & me, just to mention at least the 4 who have posted here, let alone anyone else. For anyone considering, please see the installed battery in the pic below & decide for yourself how "inconvenient" accessing the terminals might be.

As stated at the end of my original post i think a 34R yellow top would be great.

As stated in my post there is no 34R yellow top.

If you have high power stereo equipment or other requirements suited to deep cycle the yellow top might still be your choice. But for normal nsx use I think you would be more happy with the 34 reverse red top.

We actually agree on something -

Bottom line is decide what kind of battery you need for your application, not whether it is reverse or not - if you want a starting battery, get the red/orange; if you want a deep-cycle get the yellow

 

[Telly Chang]

I'm getting ready to install an Optima battery in my NSX tomorrow.

I notice that some people put the battery inside the factory battery box before clamping it down, while others skip the battery box and just mount the battery direct with the factory bracket clamp. Is one method better than the other?

For those that use the factory battery box (and since the Optima battery is smaller than the OEM battery), do you insert wood blocks to take up the extra space inside the battery box?

Thanks.

 

[prova4re]

Wood blocks are not necessary, as the bracket will hold the battery in place.
When the bracket is tight the box will not move.
I didn't want the battery to have contact with the aluminum bracket, so I used the factory battery box. It will help you slide the battery in place.

 

[D'Ecosse]

Well my Optima bit the dust after less than 18 months - won't hold a charge hardly at all. Extremely disappointed in this.

I've replaced it with a Hawker Odyssey - details Here
I wanted to include reference in this thread as I can't really support the Optima product & against my prior opinion.

p.s. Glad to get rid of that nasty-looking battery holder bracket - that pic above is embarrasing! I guess the original owner must have had some battery acid spill - that thing is UGLY!

 

[robr]

did you happen to contact optima? im curious to see how much they would have charged you for a replacement given their prorating policy for the second year of warranty.

http://www.optimabatteries.com/publ...info/automotive/deep_cycle/warranty_info.html

 

[D'Ecosse]

I decided against it Rob - especially the way the proration works

During a "pro-rated" warranty period, compensation for defect is based on the portion of total warranty period that remains.

from Interstate Batteries on their Optima policy
After the free replacement period described in paragraphs (a) above and for the remaining number of months of designated warranty period, the original purchaser may obtain a replacement battery of similar size upon payment of a prorated charge based upon the then current published cost per month of the battery multiplied by the number of full months elapsed since the date of original purchase.*

If I understand it correctly then you get 100% replacement for first year but then it immediately drops to 50% value at day 366, with the remaining 50% depreciating monthly in second year. Technically I actually had 19 months by the time I were to claim and that means I would get 5/24 of $140 or $29 net.
I also believe that to get my $29 I would have to apply it against a replacement of same - i.e. another Optima, which I won't do.

 

[Vytas]

I bought a 34R redtop back in January and it goes dead after a week. I trickle charge it to full but after a week of sitting, it won't start the car. Ready to give up on it and just buy a standard battery from Costco. Before I did, took the Optima back for a checkup/exchange. It was dead at the time so they put a 40amp charge for two hours and it got pretty warm. The battery tester they had stated the battery was good. After a few hours, it was still warm. Installed it and it fired up the car the following week. It has been holding a charge ever since and happy with it now.

 

[W]

Gel batteries can be kinda finicky when recharging. It's not the first time I've heard of someone bringing one back to life. I thought you also risked frying the battery on higher amperage.

 

[nsxsupra]

It was dead at the time so they put a 40amp charge for two hours and it got pretty warm. The battery tester they had stated the battery was good. After a few hours, it was still warm. Installed it and it fired up the car the following week. It has been holding a charge ever since and happy with it now.

Is this safe to do on Odyssey battery? I would love to bring my back to life

 

[gtr]

Why not go with the OEM battery. Thought those were pretty good and last a long time?

 

[D'Ecosse]

Why not go with the OEM battery. Thought those were pretty good and last a long time?

For regular application any good lead/acid is more than adequate.
I'm running an additional 1000W load of stereo equipment so a deep cycle high amp battery is more appropriate.

 

[Cairo94507]

Ken - My stock battery is starting to go dead when my car sits for a week or longer. The battery is 5 years old now (approximately) so I am thinking it is time to replace it. Now, given my car is not driven daily, and at times sits for a couple of weeks, I am leaning towards the battery you just bought, (because you bought it).

Also, I think I may order one of the trickle chargers you have so I can run the same set up. I like the idea of just having the little plug available in the front air vent area so it can be plugged in easily w/o opening the hood.

We all benefit from your hard work, research and skills. Thank you again,
Michael

 

[D'Ecosse]

This one, the 1200T probably still more than adequate for your needs Michael - save yourself $53. That's a great battery for that price - still has 550 CCA . It will fit in your stock battery box too I believe. The 1700 does have twice the reserve capacity however.
The Odysseys also come in metal jackets, but for CA not necessary, so again save the extra $$$. For those in extremes. the MJ version may be worth considering. The Odyssey also comes in a "reverse" terminal version of that battery too, which aligns in the "normal" NSX configuration, but I think in the NSX, it's easy to install a "std" orientation anyway.
The different variants are at here

 

[rbirling]

Does this mean that your stereo equipment draws more than your alternator can supply? Do you just charge the battery every night and run it down during the day? I just want to understand this application, I've always wondered why guys with big stereos needed bigger batteries. Thanks.

For regular application any good lead/acid is more than adequate.
I'm running an additional 1000W load of stereo equipment so a deep cycle high amp battery is more appropriate.