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Overheating problem under load and idle.....

5inchfatlip

5inchfatlip

Experienced Member
Joined
1 February 2002
Messages
1,106
Location
San Dimas, CA
Hello everyone- took the car up for a climbing mountain drive and after about 20 or so miles started getting hot, over half but not to 3/4, but was getting up there...had to turn on the heater to bring it down, this also happens in the drive-thru and continuous idle....any help???

I had my coolant bled last week thinking this was the problem, I dont think it is the thermostat because eng. was running for a while, and fans work too at idle, but seems when they turn on then the temp. goes up...

thanks anybody... =(
 
Leonard- Sounds like your run got alittle hot around the colar (bummer). Other than that how many cars rolled out and was it a fun mountain run ???
smile.gif


Wadasan
 
THe run was good, it was a pounding climb- up to 8500 ft- so alot of 2nd and 3rd gear, 4-7k running...funny I looked at the sign that says "turn off AC- avoid overheating" I said, I dont have to worry.....then this happens!!!
I hope its nothing bad...do the fans come on at a certain temp while running??? the temp seemed to rise with higher RPM....
 
Two things to check. My 91 fan has two speeds. Make sure that both work and bleed ALL the air out of the system at the four hight points in the cooling system. Dan
 
NO $$ for that- and that fix would be just a bandaid..i RARELY hear of overheating stories like mine, especially just idling at times...

I was told it could be a sticky thermostat..? doesnt the thermostat stay open if the engine is at a specific temperature??
 
I was thinking maybe the thermostat but, remember you turned off your car and turned it right back on and you said immediately it was okay? That wouldn't really have to do with it. Hopefully it is the thermostat and if you do change it and you eventually want to go to the bigger radiator you should get it all done at the same time save a little bit of cash on labor. Thats a tough drive besides, high elevation, high speed, high ambient temps. That's asking for possible overheating, granted it shouldn't but, you were in the most ideal conditions. That's like you running at 8500 ft above sea level...thinner air...<gasp>
How was it? I called your monkey a$$ but you never called me back...
 
I've been on 2 canyon runs n the last month, 1 n Malibu canyon, 2nd was w/ fellow NSX'rs n SD Palamor Mnt. Both were Good Times. My AC was off both times, no problems. Waiting 4 another fun canyon run (there kinda addicting).
 
This was in the troubleshooting section. If you are losing coolant, this maybe the problem.

The older the coolant bottle gets, the more prone it is to being depressurized by heat cycle cracks, in which case it will steadily lose coolant in the vapor state. An original coolant bottle on a 91 is an engine overheat waiting for an inconvenient time and place to happen.
 
I'm using the DALI metal bottle not the stock one....

hopeful- been trying to call, something up with the cell #..

anyways- I'll be going back to Nsx Mod. this Sat. about 4ish if you can make it...only thing I can think of is the T-stat if their is no air or leaks....
 
My thermostat opened exactly at the same time and same rate as a new one, but then stopped opening at about half way, limiting max flow. So, under most circumstances it worked perfectly normal because more than 50% wasn't needed, but sit still very long or run hard for awhile and it couldn't open far enough to get the job done.

BTW, I proved this by hanging them side by side in a pot of water and heated it on the stove. Real easy test.

As for doing new radiator and thermostat at the same time, opposite ends of the car and no common labor savings.
 
I've been dealing with overheating issues also. But mine have been at the track and only after about 15 minutes of hard run time. This happened once before and I took a flathead screwdriver to make sure all of my radiator fins were open. Well, they weren't. There was A LOT of gunk, crap, bug guts, etc. in there. Despite my efforts (pretty good I thought) this ghetto fab fix lasted about 3 track days and now I've ordered a new radiator from Dali.

My advice is to make sure all of the air is out of the system and if that doesn't work, check the thermostat, and if that doesn't work, get a good radiator.
 
I know that Dali bottles have been known to crack at the welds but, it doesn't sound like that is the problem because he would see the leakage especially since his is CHROME!!!! It does sound like the thermostat...
 
Seems to make sense...anyone know how much it costs for a new T-stat???

Aaronb- how would I check the cap on the Dali bottle?? I'm still a newbie to the car...thanks!
 
Well, Nsx Mod. told me it could be the bottle itself...dont know how it works in the system and relates to my problem...anyone? Might not be able to bring the car till Sat. just wanting some insight...
 
Wad- I'll be there Sat. afternoon about 4... my cousin has been hanging out there with Larry and the guys learning about the NSX, he'll be there tonight if you wanna just hang out....any ideas what they charge for a T-stat?
 
Originally posted by 5inchfatlip:
Well, Nsx Mod. told me it could be the bottle itself...dont know how it works in the system and relates to my problem...anyone? Might not be able to bring the car till Sat. just wanting some insight...
Click to expand...

If it's the bottle or cap, which is common, then you should see that the coolant keeps getting low and needs to be topped off. If it isn't losing coolant then that shouldn't be the problem.
 
NSX cooling system should be sufficient for your use. You likely have air in the cooling system that needs to be bled. Often, the coolant level in the reservoir system drops below the pickup which introduces air into the lines. You can see the two bleeders in the engine compartment. One is next to the firewall on the main coolant line, and another can be found on the throttle body.

The job is fairly simple, and a DIYer should be able to handle the job.

-- Chris

------------------
Revolutionize your NSX with ScienceofSpeed
www.ScienceofSpeed.com | [email protected] | 877-863-4520
 
Take off your coolant bottle cap. Shake it...if it rattles, then look closer at the small spring on the inside...and tip the cap from right-side up to upside-down...if the little plunger inside rattles around...just go to Pep Boys and buy a new cap...$3.75...should fix it.

-Andie
 

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