First time to address the group! My 98 NSX-T just quits when driving, like you turn the key off. No sputter just no power then it will kick back in for a mile or 3. Check eng lt on and shows misfire codes in 1-5 cylinders. I drained the fuel tank and changed the fuel filter. This did not help. Any one had this happen? Thanks in advance for your help
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Power Seems To Cut Off When Driving
- Thread starter SEEYABOSS
- Start date
Sounds like the common main relay issue, replace or resolder and see if the problem goes away.
- Joined
- 10 November 2002
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- 1,124
I would also suspect the main relay. Do you hear electronic-sounding clicking over your right shoulder from the center rear of the interior compartment when this happens? To troubleshoot, remove the narrow trim panel that runs horizontally across the rear of the interior compartment, below the rear window and behind the upper portion of the seats. The main relay is located underneath this panel, bolted high up on the rear wall of the interior compartment, over the driver's right shoulder near the center of the car.
Run the car in the driveway, and if it stalls, tap vigorously on the relay with a coupla fingers then attempt to restart the car. If the car doesn't stall, try tapping the main relay to make it stall. If car won't start, try tapping then attempting to start the car. If this has an effect, then the problem is the main relay.
It's a relatively inexpensive and easy fix. You can either replace the relay, resolder it yourself, or have it resoldered.
If you just want to go with a new relay, the part number is 39400-SL0-003. (see pic below). Here is an Ebay auction for an oem main relay from our friends at Acura of Escondido.* (Highly recommended. Also have a look at their other auctions for great NSX merchandise.)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Acura-NSX-1991-1994-Main-Relay-PGMFI-OEM-NEW_W0QQitemZ280002648566QQcmdZViewItem
If you decide to repair it, you have to take it apart a little. It has sort of a "hand-in-glove" design. Remove one end and the electronic components (hand) slide out of the black outer casing (glove). The electronic components are soldered onto a circuit board. Flip the board over and the solder points on the back are are clearly visible. Typically, the cause of the failure is small cracks which develop in the solder points themselves, which cause an open circuit when the car goes over bumps or otherwise vibrates a little, opening the cracks and preventing current flow. Examine the solder points closely, looking for small hairline cracks. To correct these, take a soldering iron and melt the solder joints until they are liquid, being careful not to let the solder run or drip, then allow them to reset. When you have done them all and are satisfied with the results, reassemble and reinstall the main relay.
I feel that is safer for the typical do-it-yourselfer just to melt and reset the old solder joints, rather than completely resoldering them, as it takes a bit of skill to solder properly from scratch if you are inexperienced. If you are as skilled and experienced with a soldering iron as, say, Briank, well then, that's different.
To have some else resolder it, you can get it done at an electronics shop. When my main relay went bad, I drove the car to a television repair shop and removed the main relay in the parking lot. I was fortunate to show up at a time when the TV tech had a hot soldering iron out. I was probably in and out in 15 minutes, and they didn't even charge me. The tech heated and reset the cracked solder points, and the main relay has been trouble-free for 4 1/2 years now.
*When this thread gets old and the auction has long expired, you can find Acura of Escondido under Ebay name "aofeparts"
Run the car in the driveway, and if it stalls, tap vigorously on the relay with a coupla fingers then attempt to restart the car. If the car doesn't stall, try tapping the main relay to make it stall. If car won't start, try tapping then attempting to start the car. If this has an effect, then the problem is the main relay.
It's a relatively inexpensive and easy fix. You can either replace the relay, resolder it yourself, or have it resoldered.
If you just want to go with a new relay, the part number is 39400-SL0-003. (see pic below). Here is an Ebay auction for an oem main relay from our friends at Acura of Escondido.* (Highly recommended. Also have a look at their other auctions for great NSX merchandise.)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Acura-NSX-1991-1994-Main-Relay-PGMFI-OEM-NEW_W0QQitemZ280002648566QQcmdZViewItem
If you decide to repair it, you have to take it apart a little. It has sort of a "hand-in-glove" design. Remove one end and the electronic components (hand) slide out of the black outer casing (glove). The electronic components are soldered onto a circuit board. Flip the board over and the solder points on the back are are clearly visible. Typically, the cause of the failure is small cracks which develop in the solder points themselves, which cause an open circuit when the car goes over bumps or otherwise vibrates a little, opening the cracks and preventing current flow. Examine the solder points closely, looking for small hairline cracks. To correct these, take a soldering iron and melt the solder joints until they are liquid, being careful not to let the solder run or drip, then allow them to reset. When you have done them all and are satisfied with the results, reassemble and reinstall the main relay.
I feel that is safer for the typical do-it-yourselfer just to melt and reset the old solder joints, rather than completely resoldering them, as it takes a bit of skill to solder properly from scratch if you are inexperienced. If you are as skilled and experienced with a soldering iron as, say, Briank, well then, that's different.
To have some else resolder it, you can get it done at an electronics shop. When my main relay went bad, I drove the car to a television repair shop and removed the main relay in the parking lot. I was fortunate to show up at a time when the TV tech had a hot soldering iron out. I was probably in and out in 15 minutes, and they didn't even charge me. The tech heated and reset the cracked solder points, and the main relay has been trouble-free for 4 1/2 years now.
*When this thread gets old and the auction has long expired, you can find Acura of Escondido under Ebay name "aofeparts"
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Check the electrical side (back) of your ignition switch. One way you can tell is if you start it and it sputters when you release the key back to the spring-loaded "on" position it quits. Start it again and hold slight pressure on the key against the spring. If that does the trick, replace the 'backside' of the ignition switch (electrical side). I had this happen last summer here in AZ. I had to start the engine and s-l-o-w-l-y let it come back to the on position until I could get it over to Mark Basch who diagnosed it in a nano-second got me fixed (with new part) and on my way. Mark told me it's a fairly common occurrence that the plastic and contacts warm up, warp and "ON" position loses contact with the mechanical (key) side of the ignition, and the engine cuts out, just as if you turned off the key... Another sign is your car starts, goes a mile or two and cuts out. Usually a bump can dislodge a warped contact that has a marginal connection. Worth a look. Tim.
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