I just got my Nsx and it has taitec headers, exhaust from a GT300 track car here in japan. And stock air box with filter. Previous owner said he took it to autobacs and the dyno was 267rwhp so roughly 300 crank on our high octane which is equivalent to 98 octane. I emailed prospeed and he thinks he can get a nice 15-20hp tuning for 95 octane. I want to know who's gotten tuning from them and how does it feel. The car has no A/C no power steering so less drag on the engine it also has a OS Ginken twin plate clutch with light weight flywheel. And OS Giken super lock LSD with 4.44 final gear. The engine response is insane compared to my last car which was a R32gtr and I love it. I'm going to add the carbon side scoop and CAI and was thinking of porting the manifold and going BBTB and RDX injectors and having prospeed do a rom tune for it. The manifold and throttle body I would probably wait on since I've heard the 3.0L does not benefit by it as much as a C32 engine. Please give me your results and feed back.
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Prospeed tuning? Is it worth it? Anyone have it.
- Thread starter nismor32gtr
- Start date
It will probably cost more than a JDM glove box, and then when you install your ITB setup you said you are getting, you won't be able to use it.
You're in Japan so you have access to HKS tuners? There's a few here that rave about their engine management but the lack of tuning support in the US has forced almost everyone to go with AEM.
I'd truthfully say go with the downforce side scoop, and stay with the stock air box. Also yeah the bbtb and prospeed injectors.
But I'd say get a tuner on that side of the ocean. That's the whole point of tuning right? That's like me saying to my original tuner out in MN "Hey, I changed this, can you send me a new map". It's always better to stick the car on a dyno, and tune. And yes, the tuner matters because they can blow motors so pay the extra cash to take it to someone that's familiar with the car/software and has hopefully done a few before.
Lol no the glove box is more, and I won't be going ITB for a while since I spent all the extra money I was going to use for an ITB kit just to buy the car.
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Well I live in the northern most part of the main island of japan so the closest Nsx tuners are 10 hours drive down to Tokyo. I don't have the time to drive down and leave my car at a shop to get it tuned and wait around. I'm looking for an easier option
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Well I live in the northern most part of the main island of japan so the closest Nsx tuners are 10 hours drive down to Tokyo. I don't have the time to drive down and leave my car at a shop to get it tuned and wait around. I'm looking for an easier option
I won't comment on Prospeed's product, as I have never used it, and I am sure it's a good product/service for what it is.
Rather, I'll comment on doing things the right way.
Engine tuning is something that needs to be done in person, on a dyno, with the tuner closely monitoring your car's air/fuel ratios during each run on a dyno. Have you ever seen a proper tuner work on a car? It takes pass after pass after pass to dial in a car's a/f ratio. You can't just throw a chip in from someone 5000 miles away, who has never touched your car, and call it good. You live in Japan, and have access to a plethora of well qualified tuners, you don't have to find an NSX specific tuner. Why buy one of the best cars ever made, modify it with quality products, only to skimp out on one of the most crucial parts of how a car performs? If you have the money to spend $500 on a glove box, you surely have the money to get a proper tune.
I am a fan of doing it right the first time.
Rather, I'll comment on doing things the right way.
Engine tuning is something that needs to be done in person, on a dyno, with the tuner closely monitoring your car's air/fuel ratios during each run on a dyno. Have you ever seen a proper tuner work on a car? It takes pass after pass after pass to dial in a car's a/f ratio. You can't just throw a chip in from someone 5000 miles away, who has never touched your car, and call it good. You live in Japan, and have access to a plethora of well qualified tuners, you don't have to find an NSX specific tuner. Why buy one of the best cars ever made, modify it with quality products, only to skimp out on one of the most crucial parts of how a car performs? If you have the money to spend $500 on a glove box, you surely have the money to get a proper tune.
I am a fan of doing it right the first time.
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Well it's not about cost of tune even though getting a computer and getting tuning will cost a small fortune. I don't think a mild tune for I/H/E would hurt an engine and I'll install a wide band to check anyways. I might have found a shop within 2 hours drive but rom tuning here costs as much as buying a new AEM EMS. Just saying Nsx means a jacked up price here. If I have to go to Tokyo down south I will but I'm trying to avoid the $500 trip there then money to stay there while they tune it and the trip back plus tuning costs. If I'm going to go all the way to Tokyo I might as well just go to spoon and get it tuned there. I'm trying to not spend $2500-$3000 for a $1000 tune.
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If I could drive 2 hours and pay $1000 for a quality tune I would but that's not an option for me. Travel here costs a lot of Money and so does lodging so it's not as easy and 1 2 3
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If I could drive 2 hours and pay $1000 for a quality tune I would but that's not an option for me. Travel here costs a lot of Money and so does lodging so it's not as easy and 1 2 3
Thanks. Why do you think they won't comment?
There is an entire thread on the development of the Prospeed/RDX tune. The car that the set up was developed with made 35 more lb.ft and 17 more horsepower.
Oh ok, I looked through a lot of posts from years ago and didn't see anything.
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Hey naaman you stationed at Ft. lewis?
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Hey naaman you stationed at Ft. lewis?
This link is to the vendor section. I hope it helps you.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/157469-Prospeed-rdx-injectors-amp-ecu-rom-tune-kit
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/157469-Prospeed-rdx-injectors-amp-ecu-rom-tune-kit
I have the kit - not sure which tune it is (will try to follow up this winter)
- but I installed - drove the same day - and noticed an improved seat of the pants feel of the car - seemed to have more torque at bottom at least.
I dyno-ed the car after (hub dyno) - nothing without a caparison before - but it is here for what it's worth:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/178756-Lite-mod-dyno-results
Some earlier users had soldering problems with the chip install - Seems mine is OK.
- but I installed - drove the same day - and noticed an improved seat of the pants feel of the car - seemed to have more torque at bottom at least.
I dyno-ed the car after (hub dyno) - nothing without a caparison before - but it is here for what it's worth:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/178756-Lite-mod-dyno-results
Some earlier users had soldering problems with the chip install - Seems mine is OK.
i have a similar set up on my NA1... bought a second hand ecu w/prospeed chip installed as spare part and then, when my tuner tuned my original ecu, we made a dyno comparison....
the "live" tuned ecu was the best choice... the prospeed ecu gave the same power of the oem "non tuned" ecu....
the "live" tuned ecu was the best choice... the prospeed ecu gave the same power of the oem "non tuned" ecu....
Tune-by-mail is always a risky proposition. The chip you buy was tuned on someone else's NSX with different mods in different climate conditions. There is a chance you will gain power, and the Prospeed chips have the most tuning behind them, so your chances are better there. But, it is also possible you will see minimal to no gains. That is why it is always better to have a custom tune done on your car. NSX engines were hand-built, so there is some variation between units. A custom tune will make sure to account for those changes. We are trying to get Prospeed to Colorado for this very reason.
nismor32gtr,
i think it is worth considering in your circumstances and here's why: dollar for dollar it will be very hard if not impossible to find a better performance alternative for any less than this. i hear you on the expense of living in japan, i used to live there in the summers on and off and i heard you say you are not wanting to spend a bundle at this point in time. from the time you originally posted to now, the yen is extremely weak right now so if there ever was a time to try to get in on the local tuning scene, it would be now since everything mentioned thus far about the proper way to tune cannot be disagreed with. there certainly is a right way, a wrong way, a best way etc., but there is also a cost-effective way...even if just temporary.
here's my .02 as to why this is a very economical alternative to give you more hp at an "experimental price" if you still don't wanna go the local tune route:
(1) since you are probably close to or at sea level, as just mentioned prospeed's got a lot of these already under his belt so the tune right-out-of-the-box should provide some positive gains.
(2) the least expensive way to do this: email him your mod list, a current dyno sheet, and order a kit. then on your end you will need to get your ecu ready (instead of mailing it overseas).
(3) take out your ecu, find a guy at a local hobby or electronics shop who solders all day long on circuit boards to remove your chip, install a zif socket, then re-insert your chip, reinstall in your car = car still driveable until kit arrives.
(4) when your parcel arrives swap chips, install the injectors, etc., go for a butt dyno drive, scream real loud, then at some point dyno it for reals.
i think it's reasonable to assume you will experience some gains w/minimal downtime, modest costs, and best overall convenience factor. again, the value proposition seems like a good one to get some extra hp but also just mentioned it cannot be guaranteed, hence low-risk-eXperimental. also remember with the zif, you can always swap chips and injectors to go back to your previous setup. fwiw, i did have prospeed tune in person and highly recommend it. every car is different, and every car can benefit from special attention to mod-detail, some will have great gains, others minor, but in your circumstance i still view this as a gainful alternative until at some point further down the road you do it the "best" way.
i think it is worth considering in your circumstances and here's why: dollar for dollar it will be very hard if not impossible to find a better performance alternative for any less than this. i hear you on the expense of living in japan, i used to live there in the summers on and off and i heard you say you are not wanting to spend a bundle at this point in time. from the time you originally posted to now, the yen is extremely weak right now so if there ever was a time to try to get in on the local tuning scene, it would be now since everything mentioned thus far about the proper way to tune cannot be disagreed with. there certainly is a right way, a wrong way, a best way etc., but there is also a cost-effective way...even if just temporary.
here's my .02 as to why this is a very economical alternative to give you more hp at an "experimental price" if you still don't wanna go the local tune route:
(1) since you are probably close to or at sea level, as just mentioned prospeed's got a lot of these already under his belt so the tune right-out-of-the-box should provide some positive gains.
(2) the least expensive way to do this: email him your mod list, a current dyno sheet, and order a kit. then on your end you will need to get your ecu ready (instead of mailing it overseas).
(3) take out your ecu, find a guy at a local hobby or electronics shop who solders all day long on circuit boards to remove your chip, install a zif socket, then re-insert your chip, reinstall in your car = car still driveable until kit arrives.
(4) when your parcel arrives swap chips, install the injectors, etc., go for a butt dyno drive, scream real loud, then at some point dyno it for reals.
i think it's reasonable to assume you will experience some gains w/minimal downtime, modest costs, and best overall convenience factor. again, the value proposition seems like a good one to get some extra hp but also just mentioned it cannot be guaranteed, hence low-risk-eXperimental. also remember with the zif, you can always swap chips and injectors to go back to your previous setup. fwiw, i did have prospeed tune in person and highly recommend it. every car is different, and every car can benefit from special attention to mod-detail, some will have great gains, others minor, but in your circumstance i still view this as a gainful alternative until at some point further down the road you do it the "best" way.
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From my experience, I would say stay as far away from Prospeed as possible. I had the injector kit with the chip, and had a lot of issues. First was a failed injector. Which he replaced. Even with several attempts to fix it by resetting the ecu I had a terrible cold start, with a bad warm start that took several cranks to start. I had the ecu sent back for a new chip, which resulted in no change in my issues whatsoever. Eventually I got a refund, but never got my ecu back, after it was sent back to get the oem chip reinstalled. I'd rather have herpes than that kit.<style id="pageBrightnessCustomCSS">body{zoom:104%!important;}</style>
shawn110975
Suspended
Stock injectors works just fine on my NSX stock will always out last any modded NSX LOL
Im a true OEM lover LOL
Im a true OEM lover LOL
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You should post up your experience and warn others rather than eating it and staying quiet.
I just want to point out that anybody can take a stock map, advance the timing 5* across the board, and lean the air fuel ratio slightly, and say "ok its done" and hand you a chip that will gain you 10-20 horsepower without any regards for safety. Honda (and all engine manufacturers) already know about this missing 10%~ of power, believe me, they have engine dynos and thousands of hours messing with your and other engines already. They know about it but they also know that running an engine on the bleeding edge is not a good thing, and dialing it back slightly to give users a wide range of safety margin for bad gas and up-hill conditions and the like is the way to be.
If you are searching for additional power output, it does not make sense to do anything other than increase air density. moving fuel up and down might get you 2-5% additional power, moving timing left and right might get you 2-10% additional power, both at the cost of reliability I might add, where increasing air density will gain you 40-200% additional power, the sky is the limit (or rather, your longblock is the limit).
I'd rather spend $3000 throwing 6psi of boost at the engine for 40% additional safe output, instead of $1500 for an additional 8% while also lowering the reliability of my engine.
If you are searching for additional power output, it does not make sense to do anything other than increase air density. moving fuel up and down might get you 2-5% additional power, moving timing left and right might get you 2-10% additional power, both at the cost of reliability I might add, where increasing air density will gain you 40-200% additional power, the sky is the limit (or rather, your longblock is the limit).
I'd rather spend $3000 throwing 6psi of boost at the engine for 40% additional safe output, instead of $1500 for an additional 8% while also lowering the reliability of my engine.
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$3000? What world are you living in and where is the $3000 turbo kit? Even the cheap ones are $7000 and they all end up costing more than $10k to do right and safely. Easily, $10k at that and many members who have gone turbo would attest to that. I more than tripled my budget building mine. You are right about it being the most efficient power proposition though. But $1500 is half as much and let's you keep your car NA which still makes sense for a lot of owners.
Whoa. I would never buy a kit. I am a DIY kind of guy. Materials and fabrication will cost $3000~ if you did it yourself. Besides turbos, isn't there a supercharger, like a vortech or procharger or something that costs about 3k?
Even at $10,000 its still a better ratio. If 10k is 50% additional power, and 2k is 10% additional power, well thats about equal right? And if you turn up the boost.... the ratio gets better and better
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that would be a big NO......
Not true for the NSX. The C30A does not respond to timing advance, as Honda dialed in the timing almost perfectly from the factory. The "secret sauce" in most ECU tunes for the NSX is in the fueling, and the NSX actually responds better to slightly more fuel throughout the range. Honda tuned it lean not for safety, but to meet emissions/MPG requirements. Richer generally is safer, so I disagree with your conclusion re an ECU tune.
Conversely, the NSX engine is not well suited for boost. It is a high compression, open deck design with cast pistons. While the CTSC has long been the gold standard of boost in terms of reliability and safety, make no mistake it puts more load on the engine than the design spec. By contrast, the NA C30A has been documented to go for over 300,000 miles without an overhaul. Not sure you are going to get that kind of reliability with any sort of boost, though Charlotte has gone at least 100k with the twin turbos, I think. In my opinion, to do boost "right" on the NSX, you need to build the bottom end to safely operate FI. that means low compression, forged pistons and ARP/MLS gaskets. It also means bigger injectors and re-routing the PCV system and good engine management (ProEFI or AEM Infinity). All in with tuning and you are talking at least $20,000. I would also venture with all that extra power you will need bigger brakes and more cooling, since the stock brakes and rad were designed for 3.0 270 hp. Doubling that and then driving around on the stock parts is foolish and unsafe, in my opinion.
Hey thanks for taking the time to inform me! Very interesting... here are my thoughts,
If what you are saying is true about the increase in fuel providing the missing power... then all any owner would need to do is increase fuel pressure 10-15psi and call it a day. Why bother tuning anything in the ECU?
Furthermore, adding boost to an engine to increase power is safer than adjusting the naturally aspirated properties of that engine. For instance, you might be able to gain 80 horsepower naturally aspirated by installing larger camshaft(s?), bigger ported heads, better valve springs, etc... and spinning the engine an extra 1000rpm up top. But it would be safer to simply compress the air, all else being equal.
In other words, seeking improvements in power to begin with will press the limitations of the engine, it doesn't matter if you are N/A or boosted or N2O. 10 horsepower from an exhaust system is not any "safer" than 10 horsepower from 1psi of boost. The limitation of octane/compression ratio applies in both cases, since improvements in flow of the exhaust system that add power do so by the same method that adding boost does to the intake side, they increase engine Volumetric efficiency at any given RPM.
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