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Pulley damper

Joined
17 October 2010
Messages
148
I'm having my timing belt changed next month along with some other maintenance. Should I be looking at having my pulley damper changed as well?

1991 with 26,000 miles.
 
I think replacing the harmonic balancer pulley is a good idea.

It would also be a good idea to replace the cooling system hoses, if that hasn't been done before.
 
That's what I thought. Is there a better one than the factory balancer? If so, who makes it? where? I should order it now so I have it once I bring it to the Acura dealer. I'm having the hoses done, yes.
 
SOS sells one, however I see no reason why a factory replacement wouldn't be enough. I would also get the shield that Science Of Speed sells for that just in case moment/peace or mind.
 
Get the ATI Super Damper from SOS it's lighter, stronger and helps reduce vibration if any so engine spins up quicker (apparently).
 
I have the ATI damper, feel/gains are negligible, but at least I have the piece of mind ;). It also lightens the rotating assembly a little.
 
Thanks guys. I will order one up. As long as they are doing all the maintenance, I might as well have any weak links taken care of as well.
 
I like my ATI...
 
Just ordered the ATI 917757 from Summit Racing. Just want to verify that this is a direct bolt on part is that correct?
 
Just ordered the ATI 917757 from Summit Racing. Just want to verify that this is a direct bolt on part is that correct?

Yes but it has much tighter tolerances due to the elasticity of aluminum and will need to be pressed onto the crank.
 
ATI harmonic balancer is not any lighter than stock I weighed them both on my bathroom scale and they wer the same. The balance can be pressed on with a longer bolt and flat washers that can be purchased and hardware store do search on ati harmonic balancer and there is some info on bolt size and lenght. The biggest difference is ATI is friction fit and OEM is splined.
 
Can it be pressed on the crank with the crank bolt?

I have the ati press but didn't have the exact thread adapter. I had one that was close and was able to press it on a little bit without damaging the crank threads, after that I used the oem bolt to press it the rest on. Not the safest route but it worked. You will need an impact to torque it on though because I had no way to stop the rotating assembly from moving, even if I put it in gear, there's too much play.
 
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