questions on oil starved short block

[WOODY]

I won an auction on a 3.2 short block that was run low on oil and scored one cylinder. According to the owner who purchased it from an acura dealer, the damage was discovered from smoke in exhaust from losing the piston ring (probably) on that cylinder, not from any internal noises sooo, what are the odds that the crank and rods are still OK? Owner says the drive shaft turns smoothly with little effort from one hand. The bottom end has not been opened. At the very least I have a ready to be sleeved 3.2 block right?

I know I put the cart before the horse on this one but for what I paid just the block is a good deal and if the other goodies are still in good shape it is a big bonus!
Thanks for any input.
Woody

 

[FXMDBilly]

Since it's an extra block and you have time to build it, throw some Darton Sleeves and our Forged Pistons, Rods, and larger rod journal billet crank and and you'll be good to go! :wink:

 

[WOODY]

Regardless it will need to be sleeved, but does running it dry mean the bearings will be shot and the crank journals gone? I have been running my car ~22 PSI all summer with no problems with the internals. The stock crank seems to be fine with higher HP.

 

[FXMDBilly]

Regardless it will need to be sleeved, but does running it dry mean the bearings will be shot and the crank journals gone? I have been running my car ~22 PSI all summer with no problems with the internals. The stock crank seems to be fine with higher HP.

22psi measured from where and what RPM?

Under heavy load, high rpm, and especially around corners, 22psi can lead to spinning a rod bearing. It's hard to say if the crank journals are gone or not, but if it is smoking, it's probably not a good thing. You'll have to tear it apart to be sure.

"fine" is relative to application, power level, how hard you push it, etc... For sustained high HP (especially on track) that's beyond a street car that sees WOT every now and then, the stock journals might not be up to the task.

 

[WOODY]

22 PSI from the pressure sensor on the charge tube. not sure on the RPM, I dont need to redline it so I don't and at WOT I need my eyes on the road. i would guess between 5.5 and 7 RPM somewhere. I am a street guy so spirited drives and rolling start runs are about the worst of it, not anything sustained like at the track.
I appreciate your input, I know you guys have been around this stuff a long time. I guess i just want someone to tell me its possible that the internals are still usable:redface:
It would be nice to have a second motor around for a rainy day. I got the short block for $600, if the crank and rods are ok I should be able to put dartons, and low comp pistons in for $3000 or so and maybe have a motor ready to go for $5000-5500. Is this realistic?

 

[FXMDBilly]

22 PSI from the pressure sensor on the charge tube. not sure on the RPM, I dont need to redline it so I don't and at WOT I need my eyes on the road. i would guess between 5.5 and 7 RPM somewhere.

Aaah, 22psi of manifold/boost pressure. I thought you meant you had 22psi of OIL PRESSURE. My last post was referring to oil pressure.

I am a street guy so spirited drives and rolling start runs are about the worst of it, not anything sustained like at the track.

Nothing wrong with that atall, just very different demands from the track

I appreciate your input, I know you guys have been around this stuff a long time. I guess i just want someone to tell me its possible that the internals are still usable:redface:

It IS possible. Tear it apart and find out

It would be nice to have a second motor around for a rainy day. I got the short block for $600, if the crank and rods are ok I should be able to put dartons, and low comp pistons in for $3000 or so and maybe have a motor ready to go for $5000-5500. Is this realistic?

+1 for Dartons, have them (well Race Engine Development) install it -they are awesome and do all our motors. If the crank and rods are okay, put new bearings in it, maybe WPC treat the bearings, and you'll be good to go. If the crank is bad, our billet crank is a great investment and it's not too expensive either, but you also need to get our rods to go with it.

Tear it apart, find out the condition, and Email me if you have any questions.

Billy