• Protip: Profile posts are public! Use Conversations to message other members privately. Everyone can see the content of a profile post.

Radiator Hose Project - Accesories

Joined
8 January 2010
Messages
71
Location
Fulshear, Texas (Houston)
I am currently planning on doing a complete hose and thermostat replacement. Can anyone that has done the same thing share with me how many clamps, clips, valves, etc. they had to replace or what they would suggest I have on hand in case those that I take off fail, etc.

Also if there is anything that is either not on the other forum threads, or is on the forum and you would stress I especially be aware of, or do. feel free to share.

Thanks in Advance,

Don
 
I am currently planning on doing a complete hose and thermostat replacement. Can anyone that has done the same thing share with me how many clamps, clips, valves, etc. they had to replace or what they would suggest I have on hand in case those that I take off fail, etc.

Also if there is anything that is either not on the other forum threads, or is on the forum and you would stress I especially be aware of, or do. feel free to share.

Thanks in Advance,

Don

I did a complete hose change about a year ago. There is a sticky on this on this forum which contains a wealth of information and tips. Depending upon your year and car, auto vs stick, the hoses are different, so purchase accordingly. It is a straight forward job that took me a few days. I have a lift, which makes all the difference in the world. I would get four gallons of Honda coolant and a tube of silicone to be used to get the hoses on easier. I would also have a copy of the hose diagram handy for referral purposes. I also got a pair of extended length needle nose pliers for those hard to reach clamps. I did not remove the throttle body, so I had to cut one of the clamps off. You will also need extra crush washers for the drain plugs and gaskets for the oil pump. Good luck. Jerry
 
A copy of the service manual describing the coolant flush process is always useful because if you do it 'by the manual' you will generally always be OK.

Replacement crush washers on the drain pipes are a must have. Having the O rings for the radiator bleeds is a good idea since they likely will not re seal. How many clamps you need will depend on how many you break. That is pretty hard to predict. You could order one of each size - you will need to go to a parts page and sort through all the different part numbers. Do not use the screw type serrated clamps from Home Depot as replacements. I broke the top clamp on my rad hose and in a pinch I replaced it with a banded spring loaded T bolt clamp from a hot rod store. However, you can't get those small enough to work on the little hoses to the oil cooler.

I haven't done a complete hose replacement. However, based upon my limited experience, I can guarantee you that you will want a hose clamp plier with the pivoting ends, something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Drake-Off-Road-4502-Pliers/dp/B000I1KJT8

Some people like the cable operated hose clamp pliers. I tried them once and returned them.

If its your first time, plan for a full day.

Edit:

This has probably been covered elsewhere; but, old hoses can be difficulty to get off the fittings / pipes. Avoid using a screwdriver to try separating the hose from the fitting. Particularly the under car pipes. If you gouge the soft aluminum pipe with the edge of the screwdriver its likely going to drool coolant from that point forever. I had a small plastic trim removal wedge that I used to work the hose off. Some people score the outside of the hose with a razor knife at the fitting to reduce the clamping force of the rubber. That may help as long as you don't go right through the rubber and score the aluminum.
 
Last edited:
One of the tricks I use is to get a set of brand new scraper razor blades- those little boxes of 5 or 10 they sell at the hardware store. Using a fresh blade, I VERY CAREFULLY score the hose making it much easier to separate. As has been mentioned, you must take care not to score the aluminum nipples, or you will have a coolant leak forever and must replace the fitting. I have a tube of "Pool Lube" that I bought from the pool supply store ages ago that I use to fit the new hoses. It's basically just silicone grease. You want to avoid using any petroleum based greases, as they can damage/swell the hose rubber over time. Makes fitting the new hoses (which are very tight!) much easier. Many of the NSX master techs recommend replacing all of your hose clamps with each service.
 
This has probably been covered elsewhere; but, old hoses can be difficulty to get off the fittings / pipes. Avoid using a screwdriver to try separating the hose from the fitting. Particularly the under car pipes. If you gouge the soft aluminum pipe with the edge of the screwdriver its likely going to drool coolant from that point forever. I had a small plastic trim removal wedge that I used to work the hose off. Some people score the outside of the hose with a razor knife at the fitting to reduce the clamping force of the rubber. That may help as long as you don't go right through the rubber and score the aluminum.

I've replaced the hoses twice on mine over the past 15 years and a bunch of miles and have never had to use a razor to score the hoses.

What worked for me is using Channel Locks with fresh teeth to grip into the rubber hose with minimal pressure and give the hose a little twist. It breaks the "stiction" and lets you pull the hoses off easily after that.
 
It is also worth checking out your radiation if not been changed in a while, make sure no wet markings.

+1 Kaz considers the radiator to be a"consumable" item with about a 100k mile replacement interval.
 
Larry: 1997

And thanks to everyone for your responses. Exactly the kind of help and support I knew I could expect. I have a friend with a lift that has agreed to let me use for a day or two as needed.

Don'r let this thank you keep any additional thoughts from coming.

Being a tool nut, I have many of the tools suggested, but you can bet, I will use the above as an excuse for one or two more.
 
Last edited:
Larry: 1997

And thanks to everyone for your responses. Exactly the kind of help and support I knew I could expect. I have a friend with a lift that has agreed to let me use for a day or two as needed.

Don'r let this thank you keep any additional thoughts from coming.

Being a tool nut, I have many of the tools suggested, but you can bet, I will use the above as an excuse for one or two more.

I use the hose clamp pliers that Old Guy suggests. However, the most useful tool for me is a coolant vacuum leak tester / filler.
https://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-Airlift-Cooling-Checker/dp/B0002SRH5G
This is a great tool for filling the nsx. I put my 4 gallons of coolant in a 5 gallon bucket and then let the vacuum pull in what is needed. I think it makes bleeding the cooling system much easier.

PS. I recommend taking some cardboard and or old carpet to your lift friends house. I've yet to do this job without making a mess.

Chris
 
Here is my parts kit for 1997:

Item Number QTY Description

79728-SL0-A00 1 HOSE, WATER INLET (ENGINE)*
79725-SL0-A00 1 HOSE, WATER OUTLET(HEATER)*
79722-SL0-A00 1 HOSE, WATER INLET (HEATER)*
79721-SL0-A00 1 HOSE, WATER INLET (WATER VALVE)
19518-PR7-A00 1 HOSE, WATER MIDDLE (UPPER)*
19424-PR7-A00 1 HOSE B, OIL COOLER OUTLET*
19423-PR7-A00 1 HOSE A, OIL COOLER OUTLET*
19422-PR7-A01 1 HOSE, OIL COOLER INLET*
19506-PR7-A01 1 HOSE, RR. WATER (LOWER)(WHITE PAINTED)
19502-PR7-A01 1 HOSE, FR. WATER (LOWER)(WHITE PAINTED) 1997+
19501-PR7-A01 1 HOSE, FR. WATER (UPPER)(WHITE PAINTED)1997+
19507-PR7-A01 1 HOSE, RR. WATER (UPPER)(YELLOW PAINTED)
19519-PR7-A00 1 HOSE, WATER MIDDLE (LOWER)
79727-SL0-A00 1 HOSE B, WATER JOINT*
79726-SL0-A00 1 HOSE A, WATER JOINT*
19104-PR7-A00 1 HOSE EXPANSION (LOWER)
19522-PR7-J02 1 HOSE A, BYPASS* 1997+
19526-PR7-A00 1 HOSE E, BYPASS*
19524-PR7-A01 1 HOSE B, BYPASS* 1997+
19103-PR7-A00 1 HOSE EXPANSION (UPPER)*
19107-PR7-A00 1 TUBE, OVERFLOW*
19012-PD2-004 2 GASKET - DRAIN
91318-PY3-000 1 Oil Pedestal Gasket "8"

Also just an FYI, after doing probably over 50 of these services, it is rare that clamps need to be replaced, if removed properly. I keep a full set of clamps just in case, but rarely have I had to replace any.

HTH,
LarryB
 
I'll leave the detail of coolant hose service to others but you are going to have fun dealing with just the two hoses at the oil cooler, especially the short straight one.

One thing you need to be aware is that due to the design of cooling system on our NSX (pipe/hose goes up and down at multiple places), there will be several air pockets created even if you use the vacuum fill method unless you use two stage vacuum pump.
The total capacity is about 16.2L for the C32B and 16.5L for the C30A but probably, you will be able to fill only about 15L before bleeding the air.
This is assuming that you have OEM radiator.

Therefore, very important to bleed the air over several steps especially if you don't have vacuum fill or other specific coolant service tools.

Set the CCU to max hot setting or simply remove the cable linkage at the water valve and make it fully open.
Get 5mm ID silicone tube with about 2m length to assist you for the bleeding process.
This will minimise the spillage.
Replace o-ring at both the bleeder and drain plugs at the radiator.

Once you filled the system, do a quick bleeding process following the sequence in the service manual.
Start the engine for about 30 - 60sec only and stop it.
The thermostat is closed so there will be almost no coolant flow through the [eng-rad-thermostat-eng] passage.
There is a float pin at the thermostat so it will allow some air and coolant movement but you can ignore it.
This short fireup will push the air pocket towards the heater core through the heater side of the cooling system.

Now top up the tank almost to the neck (yes, to the neck. You will understand why later) and of course, keep the cap removed.

Connect one end of the silicone tube to the bleeder and put the other end in the empty container with about 2L capacity.
Keep the entire tube as low as possible against the tank coolant level as you are going to rely on the gravity and the siphon.

Now crack open the first bleeder.
You may need persuading the coolant to keep flowing depending on how you routed the tube to the container.

Now the important thing.
Even if you think there is no more air pockets while watching the coolant flow inside the tube, keep collecting the coolant in the container until you get 1L in there.
This will minimise the amount of air left in the total system.

This is the reason why you want to top up the tank to the neck before start bleeding.

Now do the same at the rest of the bleeder plugs in the sequence of service manual.
Remember to top up the tank to the neck each time.

For the radiator, because the coolant enters from the bottom side of it on our NSX, once you start seeing the coolant out of the bleeder, just close it.
Even if there is tiny amount of air left there, it will be pushed back to the tank once the thermostat opens.

When doing the last bleeder (which will be the 1st bleeder if you followed the manual), just bleed enough coolant to make the fluid level at around max line.

If you followed this, you should be able to charge the system with about 16L of coolant with OEM radiator and hose.

As in the manual, now start the eng with the cap half closed and keep it running until the rad fan kicks in.

Keep eye on the temperature gauge and the coolant level at the tank in case you didn't bleed enough air out of the system.
If you left too much air in the system, the coolant level would reach really high and probably blows out from the overflow tube.
Not good.
If you followed the above procedure, you should not see it happneing.

Once the eng cooled down, check the coolant level and top it up if necessary.

For the next few outings, check the coolant level once the eng has cooled down until you no longer need topping up.
If followed the above procedure, you won't need topping up or small amount after just the first outing.


By the way, as you are draining the coolant for replacing all of the hoses, it's a good time for thoroughly cleaning the TH body by removing it off the engine.
It will also provide you with extra room if replacing the thermostat at the same time.
Please remember to check the base idle rpm after cleaning the TH body and if adjusted, check base IG timing as well.
You may as well do the IAT sensor at the same time.

Kaz
 
Last edited:
Thanks Kaz. What part of Bucks do you call home. We lived in the Cobham area for 8 years about a dozen years ago, and loved the country.

The manual says the capacity is 12.0L (12.7qt) for Coolant Change and 16L for Overhaul. and you say 16. Do you know what the manual is talking about?

Cheers, Lovely, Bloody Hell....See, I can still speak the lingo,

Thanks,

Don
 
By the way, as you are draining the coolant for replacing all of the hoses, it's a good time for thoroughly cleaning the TH body by removing it off the engine.
It will also provide you with extra room if replacing the thermostat at the same time.
Please remember to check the base idle rpm after cleaning the TH body and if adjusted, check base IG timing as well.
You may as well do the IAT sensor at the same time.

Kaz

Kaz I have to drain to replace the thermostat (will also remove throttle body and clean it). How much and where do I need to drain to avoid a big mess? The two engine block drains?
 
Hi, [MENTION=23483]donwells[/MENTION].
The '12L' is when changing just the coolant without removing other parts at the time of coolant service although I would say it's more like 13L required.
Fair amount of old coolant would be left inside the system due to the way the pipe/hose goes up and down across the entire passage.

The 16.2L or 16.5L are the total system capacity.
You will never be able to drain this amount unless you remove the radiator, heater core, oil cooler (and ATF cooler), all of the pipes/hoses and even the eng block.
Front bank bleeder plug is located fairly high at the block and as the engine is tilted towards the rear, you will see some amount trapped inside the water jacket.

[MENTION=18194]Honcho[/MENTION], the amount of coolant depends on how you do it.
If your coolant is fresh (like less than a few months old), you can mix it with the new one but if it's like more than 6 months old, just drain the entire system.
No point in mixing old/new coolant from the point of rust inhibitor.

Even when you open all of the drain ports, there are fair amount of coolant left inside the system if none of the hoses/pipes were disconnected.

Never measured it accurately but from what I saw after removing the cyl head, the amount coming out while replacing the hoses & radiator, etc, I think I can only drain about 13L through the drain ports before removing any parts.
About 3 - 3.5L (not accurate, just my guess) left inside the system.

Never tried just opening the eng block bleeder ports though…..
While the tank is the heighest point, the two eng block bleeders are not the lowest....

You can leave the radiator side but better off opening the two drain plugs at the centre floor channel.
Not sure this is the same on the LHD model but the lower pipe/plug is the return flow from the radiator to the thermostat on the RHD.





rjyt-_COMS2dpQtND8ROn0EnGj6cQXMflfA5-R_vTyUmgLyqN9sJZ4oh5loejY8ii5ZLuc22HMQdfuirqj3Ac0uVShCMeUAcoPBJPNDZuGvUk7IaW2l8QQX_Zw7wWRTzFQpCqb18wmahm2m_szes_neFCK3uuZc_VeNJcH8v_fTpa_QbYkFbDPtvZhOos91QJjYmYWLRraAUwffQQ-z8_ZWB2xCxHHt-RTvjhirJy5AOYXy92Jy6G4xP8v6IF5us8lS5mty-X2eNTAnL_0DxlZ4_vv_wfXNwKr3lyv0RUi4QT64Oy2kCTFyfuu-h4gtC9TIVvaFqVTNwXFMz1_ETlGz6Et6dMX04zXIIiC2Aek4z9QVcUpdp9TLhIrirtjikviX31Qu5oJsT0kRnkcm3Ntdh7_GNR3oB4UuZdJFxV6YhBfL2ZUgBdzn02MT86RHOfcXyBTbyX1HwWjv-nKMcgD5SaDBYTdTi3L9pUCDMt_ECxy7phNE-1ChrNsbXw-2TSTSchQUaERLmeiawy1FmY6jWuOyVefWXwsOcRzMswVRI9ZNJ2_HNbFcUc48AQY5AmplopzHRIY6O_2xewBh0fHz-tGVkyEtHQruoT09zCeWqC9RMkj9JGSWviLAHzlCPgW9E9ElPQIr_nofCV_dmx1ntjX_8EkKw8t9BwtQD6VajQ06xrTYN08YvKw=w1080-h608-no


kEt7cBxnZPDmAufz3Fd_c9fX-jtqDsOSP3dXpp-kSTkVSPeirGlDGS68JCUJpBajxiwNAv7fwjgbAwBKI624ZMs868Dt3KgkyRisDu66rdcJtfos5bZvh4zR1EmSk2TAKR0QV3D9ylJzr7WvUzxzkEyryk_gvy7yAuczdO2Oi-XupG7FEkIYYmR5a-PuxiwP6i2UUbHb7Kwy1v3BHalBe6-hzX4_YE75Q7BT1y7BRkbspCeyoNHhnXMJ6gicnj66SlwN9HsUbeAbMwd1qh3KJ9vBN4LAoeNW0F1zqkCem2v6NJq5gUMWU-hjVYbibF8UGym1iVmjqgx3OHB0ZNztlf05eW611KykXCKdlb5VckkmAB_vR7SA588ZZwDdv5itoxvpgjOSzoJxWf_MP_tgfj6M5-FGNUIhuSAqXgl4fLJFh1eJUA5k28nykAMUsXzw-cfQqTDKyBlpEALD7a-l8ucQLztzGhQPj9Z2lIi2zvqlajuQ5wHExjM0bHPl_1_L6jHrm9i9koxACwzX2zm9yc05dEbrUpvUtNcmE7RLBV7mZIZ6RshtGVN3rZ4LCs1sA6o2P_X0GukmkMjXAoKVkhXvccg7PC4_BRnvy5KGEjr0uhijLXXP81YiH8OqMvHajkRpBL_kDydnHLrXgAqglPDSda9Ng_b8wXMt8E--TILWmRXFi988UB3dkQ=w1080-h608-no

Thermostat is the door at the return path from the rad so even you drain the coolant through the two eng block drain ports, the return hose is still full of coolant unless your thermostat is already dead and opened.

Addition to this, the heater circuit return hose is kind of installed horizontally that there are still lots of coolant inside there.

Even after you followed this, the hose at the thermostat cover is pretty much full of coolant due to the angle of the pipe at the firewall. As soon as you remove the thermostat cover, be prepared for the splash.
You will also splash some coolant when pulling out the thermostat.

I normally place cardboard under the gbox with lots of paper towel to absorb the spillage.



RQohWG5_LYt3oIdc5u1_OqXcJ0zPqqlt-fl0z1dVLFOGxZVZ8DI-eILvRVnljt5ccOJQYVjB8ZOerp8stKaW9TtnC9QJX-gTQWcOm8OCoKLXyLIXuwM5Udxdw0k1y0PDVfWz9cZRHCHCucUptOtSFKqDqHZMt1gk303xcs7zcirpZU3CKwluFBo-uBA0rwn4nkiNBtEMctSZPF-e00KbqgRq2qj3Ub0Ktw9pxk-g170gOvPVOZWr75qzDsbw-rtCtmxkOUYaO39gqTg11TdbYY6317iR0SvJSA943T9pqk-BXoC1zw8G3dtgicTJxy0k3UmV0vpDSMtG1Ht6kW6XuryUeK4uwjl-qLBaYI3PC1-cHYljl714b5N5hp56spqLdMhdL4mfV8G165CNkv9WI22Ez0POipfb6mR6ZDv6NQxP_5xH5F8KMiEujn0pdmng9iagxJlK4rSLp37uKbvZxfexIZXSXV4kieyCQsyv49p2JpCL3Z4I6YV1VOyjUDzdsLC0YBNo5Tn-DTm6fnKq6NMYDbdbIbTxLcSj8PkPNZS0MR6l8SN3mDBGPX7m9HQ28CKCH4tcbreQRhc9eAdVP9krb4DcxYBQheyangNsmmqSlsYgOCscWJhDGCfi3Khyis0l2l0odLeJjfzJ55D07WkzVMyITKbX066tY0Apbpsem5s9YprE1mK3Bg=w1080-h720-no

On many NSX, I saw oxidation and corrosion chewing into the thermostat cover and the housing.

Some of them were actually seeping tiny amount of coolant over many years.

Just recondition the cover and mating surface before the installation.


Kaz
 
Thank you [MENTION=25737]Kaz-kzukNA1[/MENTION] that is very helpful. I think I will attempt to drain from the two engine block drains, the tank lower hose, and the thermo bleed screw and then work up a funnel contraption to catch the spill from the thermo cover when I pull it off. I will document fully in my build thread.
 
Back
Top