• Protip: Profile posts are public! Use Conversations to message other members privately. Everyone can see the content of a profile post.

Removing Rotor

Joined
18 March 2005
Messages
394
Location
Houston, TX
I am having trouble getting the two philips screws out. One is almost stripped... the other is just fine.

I am attempting to install extended studs. I managed to remove the OEM studs without removing the rotor... but the problem is that the studs need to come out in a slight angle. The angle is too aggressive so it damages the thread.

I'm looking to remove the rotor hopefully giving my extended studs more play.

Unless you guys tell me the damage is significant to the safety of my vehicle... I'll just hammer the new studs in.

I've already tried all of this... except the ball peen hammer.

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/iDcxisoTMWg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


Thanks!
 
Last edited:
try a screw extractor....

I can't comment w/ regards to "... I'll just hammer the new studs in." as to whether or not that'll weaken/damage the new wheel studs. Instead, I would try a screw extractor (driver/socket/drill bits). These are readily available at Harbor Freight, Sears, as well as Home Depot & Lowes. If you have already have a DIY drill-bits/drivers/etc set. there may be some extractor bits in there, so it's worthwhile to check (I have an old Black & Decker drill-bit/drivers set which has various extractors).

There's literally a 101 ways out there to remove damaged/stuck brake rotor screws (ie. heat, ball-peen hammer, Dremel, impact screwdriver, ice-chisel, hammer-punch, power-drill, etc); but, I've found screw extractor kits to be the easiest/simplest.
 
Last edited:
Punch and hammer or harbor freight impact screw driver thingy, works all the time. If you already stripped it then your best bet is to buy a punch from sears. Place the punch tip on the screw at a 45 degree angle at hit to the left to loosen the screw.
 
Last edited:
Attached images of studs... Think it matters? Seriously. If there is no effect on my lugs staying on... I am more than happy to ignore those two screws.
 

Attachments

  • IMAG0004 (Medium).jpg
    IMAG0004 (Medium).jpg
    89.9 KB · Views: 55
  • IMAG0005 (Medium).jpg
    IMAG0005 (Medium).jpg
    78.5 KB · Views: 55
I use a screw driver, and hammer to create a shock on the screw and it will become loose eventually. Once you see a little puff of dust (smoke) rise from the screw it has loosened. Pick a screwdriver that has a solid shaft that continues right through the handle to a hammering surface on the back end of the handle. Any plastic or other handle material will absorb the shock of the hammer and not produce the shock on the screw. Posi-drive, not a Philips seems to work best for me.

Please do not follow that video! putting a car on a cinder block is the worst thing you can do from a safety standpoint! use a car axle stand under the body of the the car.
 
Last edited:
Don't risk damage to your new studs. If you have a large enough drill bit you can drill off the bolt head that's holding the rotor and the rotor will come off. Then you can grab the remaining bolt shaft with a vise-grip plier and have your way with it (a little PB Blaster never hurts - just be sure to clean the rotor with solvent before reassembly).
Good Luck!
 
Yeah drill out the screws if you can't get them out with PB blaster and an impact driver or something. The ball-peen hammer is interesting, I've never had to do that but good to keep in mind. You're going to have to take them out some day so you may as well take care of it now and do the job right.
 
Gave up... gently pounded the studs in. Little to no damage. Guess good studs make a big difference.

Plus where the thread is a little bit shiny... it's not being used by the lug. The spacer is covering that area. I'm good.
 
Re: try a screw extractor....

There's literally a 101 ways out there to remove damaged/stuck brake rotor screws (ie. heat, ball-peen hammer, Dremel, impact screwdriver, ice-chisel, hammer-punch, power-drill, etc); but, I've found screw extractor kits to be the easiest/simplest.

+1 (in my experience).

I didn't see it mentioned, and maybe there's a reason, but I never reinstall those rotor screws without a thin coat of anti-seize. It'll never be a problem again.
 
Something else you can try BEFORE the screw heads are stripped out. Put some valve grinding compound on the tip of your screwdriver. It helps to grab the screw head.
Brad
 
Back
Top