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rev matchin
- Thread starter K
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hmmm.. I was under the impresssion that a properly done rev match could actually reduce wear as you are spinning the engine up to speed of the drivetrain. Which should reduce clutch wear and I'd imagine it'd be better for everything else too. I could be wrong tho. :tongue:
Correct. A proper rev match is less wear on everything.
its very easy....just blip the gas to match the lower gear's rpm before releasing the clutch.
I recommend everybody doing this,
first of all, rev matching keeps your car balanced while downshifting, which is very critical in high speed driving or tracking, which will require braking and rev matching done at the same time....also known as heel-toe downshifting.
second of all, if rev match done properly, it will put a lot less stress on your clutch.
And in order to drive your car fast and safe, rev matching and heel-toe will need to be mastered.
hope this helps!!
I recommend everybody doing this,
first of all, rev matching keeps your car balanced while downshifting, which is very critical in high speed driving or tracking, which will require braking and rev matching done at the same time....also known as heel-toe downshifting.
second of all, if rev match done properly, it will put a lot less stress on your clutch.
And in order to drive your car fast and safe, rev matching and heel-toe will need to be mastered.
hope this helps!!
It’s been posted before, but these videos do an excellent job of showing proper shifting technique:
http://www.bmwm5.com/greg/school/ (credit goes to TigerNSX for first posting the link)
http://www.bmwm5.com/greg/school/ (credit goes to TigerNSX for first posting the link)
Prozac is a great solution to a depressed clutch... :tongue:
Anyway,
When the clutch pedal is depressed, the clutch is "disengaged", meaning it's not touching anything, meaning no wear is possible, nor damage (for purposes of this discussion, anyway...)
Damage/wear occurs when the pedal is released or the clutch is "engaged"
Clutch damage/wear/slippage is exacerbated when, at the time of clutch "engagement", the engine and tranny are moving at different speeds. Bigger the difference, the more wear/damage.
When you blip the throttle, it raises the engine speed to match more closely what the tranny speed will be when you change to the gear you want to be in.
Heel/toe shifting is necessary b/c when slowing down to take a corner, you have to brake and downshift and at the same time since when you come out of the corner, you need to be in a lower gear for max power. If you don't rev match, the drivetrain will limit your power in that moment you downshift.
Solution: blip the throttle and brake at the same time, IOW rev-match AND brake.
And of couse, when the clutch pedal is in, or the clutch is "disengaged", do whatever you want with the gas--if the clutch isn't engaged, no stress is put on the clutch (in the traditional way).
NOT rev-matching contributes to clutch wear and tear. If every driver in every car rev-matched on every shift, clutches would last longer.
Anyway,
When the clutch pedal is depressed, the clutch is "disengaged", meaning it's not touching anything, meaning no wear is possible, nor damage (for purposes of this discussion, anyway...)
Damage/wear occurs when the pedal is released or the clutch is "engaged"
Clutch damage/wear/slippage is exacerbated when, at the time of clutch "engagement", the engine and tranny are moving at different speeds. Bigger the difference, the more wear/damage.
When you blip the throttle, it raises the engine speed to match more closely what the tranny speed will be when you change to the gear you want to be in.
Heel/toe shifting is necessary b/c when slowing down to take a corner, you have to brake and downshift and at the same time since when you come out of the corner, you need to be in a lower gear for max power. If you don't rev match, the drivetrain will limit your power in that moment you downshift.
Solution: blip the throttle and brake at the same time, IOW rev-match AND brake.
And of couse, when the clutch pedal is in, or the clutch is "disengaged", do whatever you want with the gas--if the clutch isn't engaged, no stress is put on the clutch (in the traditional way).
NOT rev-matching contributes to clutch wear and tear. If every driver in every car rev-matched on every shift, clutches would last longer.
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If you're really good at it, you won't even need to use the clutch.
I used to own a car with completely worn out synchros in all but the highest gear. I had to double-clutch all my shifts, up or down, matching revs every time. I got to the point where I could shift pretty smoothly without the clutch if I really tried.
I used to own a car with completely worn out synchros in all but the highest gear. I had to double-clutch all my shifts, up or down, matching revs every time. I got to the point where I could shift pretty smoothly without the clutch if I really tried.
zff said:
I was out with a buddy in his 626 when the clutch cable broke while we were 50 miles from home. I drove it home without using the clutch. From a stop, with the engine off, start it in first gear. The starter motor is strong enough to start the car in gear. From there, it's just doing rev-match shifts the whole way home.
K - While the clutch pedal is pressed in, you aren't doing wear to the flywheel, PP, or clutch. You are however doing wear to the throwout bearing. That's why when you're stopped, you should shift to neutral and release the clutch, rather than sit there with the clutch depressed.
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