Roll Bar

Arguing with myself? It's simple, I don't want a full cage to keep the car on the street, and I was simply asking other Prime members input on what they use. It seems very few others use any rollover protection.

It seems the Comptech bar is the best choice for HPDE. I will try to find one, although thanks to AK even the installation on that is complicated.

I have a HANS device, but I was worried about rollovers, not front/rear deceleration.
 
I have a Mugen bar from Kingmotorsports...I paid 900 dollars shipped and it was worth every penny...

AOB has a Comptech restraint kit for sale...I am sure you could get one from them...

Sometimes you do get what you pay for....
 
Mystician,

I'm in Socal, but Mugen Bar, huh? And who and where are Kingmotorsports?
And AOB? Please, give me info ! I'll check it out.

Thanks !
 
Yeah, no one is arguing with you and it seems that you keep reiterating the same points to prove something. Must just be me. Again, no offense meant. I'll shut my yap.

FYI - the King Motorsport 8 point custom cage is only 6k. And by reputation, if it's by King/Mugen then it's at least at a 200% mark-up.
 
SKB NSX said:
Mystician,

I'm in Socal, but Mugen Bar, huh? And who and where are Kingmotorsports?
And AOB? Please, give me info ! I'll check it out.

Thanks !

If I may...

King Motorsports is the sole distributor for Mugen products. They are located in Wisconsin. They are also heavy in the amateur and professional racing industries.

AOB = Acura of Brookfield. A community recognized expert in servicing NSXs.
 
Thanks, Ponyboy,
If I did reiterate myself, I'm sorry. I may be a little sensitive, since ever since I put the seats and harnesses in, everyone asks why I didn't put a cage in. I still want to street my car and I'm just looking for the best solution, and I know many of you (yourself included) have more experience than I do in this area.
So . . . once again, just looking for the best solution. :smile:
 
Remember where I live guys. There are car constructors on every corner of NASCAR ALLEY. I have been quoted $1500 to $2200 for a full SCCA legal race cage.
 
I can back Gary up on this topic. I grew up just south of NASCAR country down in South Carolina and finding a good metal fabrication shop is about as easy as driving down the street once you get north of Charlotte.

This stuff isn't rocket science (welding/bending tubing) and if you are used to building full tube framed cars, installing a simply 6 point roll-cage in a car is not all that challenging.

ncdogdoc said:
Remember where I live guys. There are car constructors on every corner of NASCAR ALLEY. I have been quoted $1500 to $2200 for a full SCCA legal race cage.
 
ncdogdoc said:
Remember where I live guys. There are car constructors on every corner of NASCAR ALLEY. I have been quoted $1500 to $2200 for a full SCCA legal race cage.

Hi Gary,

Keep in mind that you have a set of all (20) mounting plates for the struts and frame rails, including the hardware and backing plates. It has been my experience that if you did not have these items, the total cost of the roll cage installation would be at least double based on man/hours alone. Here is a link about roll-cages http://www.dalmotorsports.com/cars.asp#Roll-cage

Also see http://www.dalmotorsports.com/cars.asp#Sway Bars (#6 Sway Bar) to see the plates and how I tied the front struts down to the frame rails for added support.

We are not currently fabricating and selling parts, but if a group wanted these plates I could have them made… or I could possibly send my drawings to someone willing to drive a group purchase.
 
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This is an interesting topic.

1. You can race without a full cage. Some clubs allow exhibition racing with 4 point protection. This is a no-contact racing much like Monterey Historics. Yes racing can be just as fun when you arn't allow to hit the other car.

2. A street NSX should never have a full cage because of the dangers of impacting your head on the bar without a helmet.

3. A 2 point hoop with 2 points of bracing would be the best solution for a street/track NSX. The challenge here is where to put the two bracing bars.
a. Normally you would want to bring the two bracing bars off the hoop through the rear window and tie them into the chassis on either side of the motor near the shock mounts. Unfortunately this means that you would need
to have a Plexiglas rear window and therefore have more noise and exhaust in the cabin. Not a great solution for a street car,

b. Bring the two brace bars forward of the hoop. This would make entry and exit from the car difficult but if the brace bars were removable, then you could convert it back to street duty in short order by removing the
bracing bars and just driving on the street with the main hoop. This sounds like the comptech solution but I have yet to see how well exicuted it is.

A hoop design with two removable bracing bars running forward would be the best solution for HPDE and exhibition racing. If there was a good solution, I may be interested in purchasing one. I don't like the fact that I can't race my NSX when my Formula Mazda can't make sound at Laguna Seca. I'm even thinking of buying a new Z06 just because I can't race the NSX.
 
RacerX-21 said:
Hi Gary,

Keep in mind that you have a set of all (20) mounting plates for the struts and frame rails, including the hardware and backing plates. It has been my experience that if you did not have these items, the total cost of the roll cage installation would be at least double based on man/hours alone. Here is a link about roll-cages http://www.dalmotorsports.com/cars.asp#Roll-cage

Your parts are very nice Rob, and yes does make the price cheaper. But to allow someone to think that flat metal cutouts and bolts will add another $1500 to $2000 dollars is a bit much. My quotes were $300-400 more if bolt in weld-to plates needed to be fabricated. Remember, even non aluminum cars will utilize additional plates to give the bar a place to be welded. You just would not need as many.

Andrie, to relpy I would just ask how much a 3 bedroom 1500 sq ft house goes for in your area. I can buy one new for less than $140,000. Different cost of living applies to more than property taxes and rent.
 
ncdogdoc said:
Remember, even non aluminum cars will utilize additional plates to give the bar a place to be welded. You just would not need as many.
Hi Gary,

It’s my cage builder that I quoted. You need to remember that these plates aren’t 1/16” or 1/8” thick rectangles made to spread the weld area on an existing metal car. (Like needed on an old BMW) These parts need to be structural and the thickness has to support the cage from ripping off the bolts. All of the plates are ¼” and 5/16” thick… ever try working with metal that thick? Sheet metal snips or a saw-zaw isn’t going to do the trick. Even a table saw would be a nightmare with the odd shapes needed for the strut towers or the kidney shaped strut supports, and don’t forget the 45+ holes including the large hole saw size for the shocks. Ever try to hole saw ¼” steel? Also the receiving plates are tapped for better ground clearence. Pick up your McMaster book and check the prices for 7” long grade 8 bolts. It takes about $300 just in hardware to do a full cage on an NSX. You might want to question your source or ask him to sign a guarantee for his quote.
 
Seems this thread has gone the "cage" route, but luckily, in the meantime, Ken at Factor X happened to have a Comptech roll bar laying around. All I have to do is have tube collars fabricated and then I think I'm about as safe as I can be for HPDE 3/4.
If I decide to turn my NSX into a track-only car next year, I'v accumulated a wealth of knowledge on cages from all you guys.
 
Finally you found that bar!Now show us some picks when its installed,I'm sure that will stir a spirited discussion on the safety issues and integrity all over again :wink:
 
If there is interest in getting copies of the bar, perhaps I can help. I am set up to make harness bars and I don't think it would be much work to jig up to make copies of the Comptech roll bar. Please post pics and perhaps we can work out a chance for me to see the bar and measure it before you install it.

Dave
 
Dave,

When I get the main and side bars, I will post pics.
 
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