Just looking for opinions on upgrading rotors. I do not track my car, however I do drive fairly hard. Whats the difference (performance wise) in OEM sized dimpled and slotted rotors?
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rotors
- Thread starter hondapower
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You will not see much improvement from rotor changes unless you go to floating hat rotors, and even then only on the track. Dimples and slots give the gas created by the pads somewhere to go so the rotor theoretically does not heat up as much, which prevents fade. Unless you are doing serious canyon/mountain running, this will not help on the street.
It will of course look much better!
Pads and cooling the rotors/calipers is much better spent money, IMHO.
Private me if you have more questions, I will be happy to answer them.
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Gary Yates
1995 Red/Tan Boooleevard Cruzer
1992 White/Black Track Rat
2002 Red and White Cooper S - for sale, please inquire
It will of course look much better!
Pads and cooling the rotors/calipers is much better spent money, IMHO.
Private me if you have more questions, I will be happy to answer them.
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Gary Yates
1995 Red/Tan Boooleevard Cruzer
1992 White/Black Track Rat
2002 Red and White Cooper S - for sale, please inquire
I havent found too much difference in upgrading to cross drilled rotors...but i do belive that slotted/crossdrilled/dimpled or a combination of the above will facilitate heat disapation and prevent early warping of the rotor and provide less brake fade from the high temp created under braking.As far as a floating rotor is concerned,i belive there design advantage is that it eliminates vibration under braking which usally occurs with rotors that are one piece and slightly warped.
Im sure those who track there cars here are more qualified to answer this question and can provide a more accurate explanation.
Im sure those who track there cars here are more qualified to answer this question and can provide a more accurate explanation.
I would suggest that if you haven't had much in the way of rotor problems (like brake shudder), then don't replace them at all. If you have, you might try something like the PowerSlot slotted rotors. They're inexpensive (under $200/pair), and you might find that they're all you need. If you still experience problems, then go to a floating hat rotor like from Stoptech.
You're confusing the cause with the symptom.
The advantage of floating hat rotors is that the outer "ring" of the rotor, which comes into contact with the brake pads, is not fixed to the inner "hub" that fits over the lugs. Instead, the hardware lets it float. Thus, when the outer ring gets hot (such as when driving on the track), it can expand, without stressing the metal the way a conventional one-piece rotor would, resulting in warping or cracking.
Vibration can be a symptom of warping, of "hot spots" on the rotor, or of cracking - but in any case, it's a symptom of heat-related problems that the floating-hat rotors avoid via their two-piece design.
You're confusing the cause with the symptom.
The advantage of floating hat rotors is that the outer "ring" of the rotor, which comes into contact with the brake pads, is not fixed to the inner "hub" that fits over the lugs. Instead, the hardware lets it float. Thus, when the outer ring gets hot (such as when driving on the track), it can expand, without stressing the metal the way a conventional one-piece rotor would, resulting in warping or cracking.
Vibration can be a symptom of warping, of "hot spots" on the rotor, or of cracking - but in any case, it's a symptom of heat-related problems that the floating-hat rotors avoid via their two-piece design.
what happens when drilled rotors get a small step at the edge?? this has happened to mine...I dont think I can turn them like normal ones, I dont feel any vibrating though...
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