• Protip: Profile posts are public! Use Conversations to message other members privately. Everyone can see the content of a profile post.

SOS/CT sway bars - what settings?

Joined
12 May 2011
Messages
244
Location
Wilton, CT
I just received my SOS sway bars this past weekend and I'm looking to install them soon. However, I'm not sure what settings to use. I have noticed a bit of understeer at initial turn-in, so I'm hoping these bars will help reduce that characteristic.

My suspension/chassis mods are:

- KW V3 (lowered to 1/2-finger gap)
- LoveFab rear targa brace
- NSX-R front chassis bar
- GT-Spec lower chassis bar

The car is only going to be street driven so I don't want to go too stiff and induce too much oversteer. Really, I just want to balance the car a bit more...but safely.

What settings are you guys running on the street?
 
good question I have a few sets of swaybar different brands SOS/comptech didn't know if I should put them on because of this issue
 
You haven't listed your wheel and tires, your pressures, alignment settings, etc. On a street driven car, if you are inexperienced, I would stay safe and go with more understeer. Try full stiff front and medium rear. Then change to full rear and medium front. Experiment some place safe. Where you are driving, how you take turns, your style, there are so many things that affect this.

I've been on the track a few years and there are certainly guys here that are more experienced than I am. But the one thing that has become very clear to me is that you can drive ANY setup fast. It is so difficult to separate car from driver and say "this setup is a fast setup and this setup is a slow setup" because I have learned to adjust my driving AROUND any shortcomings a car may have in a particular situation. I may attack a turn differently and exit differently depending on how the car is behaving at the time. Blanket statements of "this is good and this is bad" which I used to constantly look for, nay not have a lot of value for your situation.

Like I said, the full stiff front and medium rear would be my start, then medium front and full rear so you can feel the difference but on the street.... you have to drive really unlawfully to be able to test. I highly recommend getting yourself into autoX as that allows you to really push and exceed the limits without repercussions. You will learn and know your car a lot more there and make adjustments you really have felt. Much better way to do it, $50 and totally safe.
 
You haven't listed your wheel and tires, your pressures, alignment settings, etc. On a street driven car, if you are inexperienced, I would stay safe and go with more understeer. Try full stiff front and medium rear. Then change to full rear and medium front. Experiment some place safe. Where you are driving, how you take turns, your style, there are so many things that affect this. I've been on the track a few years and there are certainly guys here that are more experienced than I am. But the one thing that has become very clear to me is that you can drive ANY setup fast. It is so difficult to separate car from driver and say "this setup is a fast setup and this setup is a slow setup" because I have learned to adjust my driving AROUND any shortcomings a car may have in a particular situation. I may attack a turn differently and exit differently depending on how the car is behaving at the time. Blanket statements of "this is good and this is bad" which I used to constantly look for, nay not have a lot of value for your situation.Like I said, the full stiff front and medium rear would be my start, then medium front and full rear so you can feel the difference but on the street.... you have to drive really unlawfully to be able to test. I highly recommend getting yourself into autoX as that allows you to really push and exceed the limits without repercussions. You will learn and know your car a lot more there and make adjustments you really have felt. Much better way to do it, $50 and totally safe.
I just installed CT Sway Bars and have them set at medium front and rear for the street. Is there anything wrong with that setup? I'm asking because I like the balance so far as compared to the stock sway bars. I have OEM Wheels, Yokohama S Drives, OEM alignment settings, OEM tire pressures, NSX-R chassis bars and Bilstein shocks on the lower purch. I'm going to try my first track experience at Mid-Ohio/NSXPO. Should I change to stiff front/medium rear to be safe?
 
I just installed CT Sway Bars and have them set at medium front and rear for the street. Is there anything wrong with that setup? I'm asking because I like the balance so far as compared to the stock sway bars. I have OEM Wheels, Yokohama S Drives, OEM alignment settings, OEM tire pressures, NSX-R chassis bars and Bilstein shocks on the lower purch. I'm going to try my first track experience at Mid-Ohio/NSXPO. Should I change to stiff front/medium rear to be safe?

It depends on how hard you are going to push the car. Chances are it won't matter. For any of these adjustments to actually be effective most of the time you are near the limits of grip and go over them, then the car behaves a certain way. No DE instructor will let you get remotely close to that if you are a novice. If it were my car, I would change the front to full stiff. I would also not stay with OEM alignment settings, they are designed for tire longevity not performance. That is probably where you will see the most difference and the NSX on bad alignment settings is not a well-behaving car. The S drives are also not great, they are OK at best, there are tires that grip far better. Tire pressures should be 36-38 HOT, so start at 32-32 cold... not OEM pressures. I am not telling you to change tires, I think for a first event they are fine but eventually there are better tires and you may feel that even on spirited street driving. Going full stiff front and keeping the rear soft will make the car want to understeer more and that is safer.

In your case I would align to 8.5-9 or higher caster, -0.5 degrees front and -1.5 degrees rear camber, 2mm toe out front and 4-5mm toe in rear. I run more aggressive settings, stuntman has a good post on this here:

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...or-track-use?p=1407107&viewfull=1#post1407107

Speaking from personal experience: I started my track experience at Watkins Glen which is a fast track. You can learn how to drive a track fast with good lines but you won't really learn car control, which is a 7-8 on a difficulty scale in an NSX versus a 4-5 on most sports cars because of its high grip levels and it being tough to control when that is lost. If you are learning car control on the track, you are risking going into a wall. You need to become comfortable with what this car does once all grip is lost with YOUR setup. When you know the limits and how to control it, you will automatically be much faster on the track. Becoming fast for a beginner has a lot to do with losing fear... the car's limits are higher than most people realize. Mainly, you learn on the track not to do something stupid. You start off by not asking the tires to turn and brake at the same time or not to lift mid-turn. You learn to have smooth inputs... but you still haven't learned NSX control. You will always be cautious because of the fear of "losing it". For that you need AutoX, where you can go way over the limits and there's nothing to hit. You need to spin out... over and over. You can do drift clinics where you are encouraged to push the tail out and control it (very difficult in an NSX but can be done). The combination of good car control and being smooth then create a fast driver/car on the track. If you start at autox, and do ONLY That, you may pickup a lot of bad habits. I have seen some fast autox guys that are horrendous with their inputs, nothing but abrupt. On the track that will put them into a wall. It's doing things in combination where I personally have made big gains. So I am just sharing this for info. You will have a lot of fun on the track and as a novice its very safe as you just don't push that hard. All these things like sway bar setups come into play when you are beyond that and pushing hard. Until then, it's mostly just theory.
 
Last edited:
It depends on how hard you are going to push the car. Chances are it won't matter. For any of these adjustments to actually be effective most of the time you are near the limits of grip and go over them, then the car behaves a certain way. No DE instructor will let you get remotely close to that if you are a novice. If it were my car, I would change the front to full stiff. I would also not stay with OEM alignment settings, they are designed for tire longevity not performance. That is probably where you will see the most difference and the NSX on bad alignment settings is not a well-behaving car. The S drives are also not great, they are OK at best, there are tires that grip far better. Tire pressures should be 36-38 HOT, so start at 32-32 cold... not OEM pressures. I am not telling you to change tires, I think for a first event they are fine but eventually there are better tires and you may feel that even on spirited street driving. Going full stiff front and keeping the rear soft will make the car want to understeer more and that is safer. In your case I would align to 8.5-9 or higher caster, -0.5 degrees front and -1.5 degrees rear camber, 2mm toe out front and 4-5mm toe in rear. I run more aggressive settings, stuntman has a good post on this here:http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...or-track-use?p=1407107&viewfull=1#post1407107Speaking from personal experience: I started my track experience at Watkins Glen which is a fast track. You can learn how to drive a track fast with good lines but you won't really learn car control, which is a 7-8 on a difficulty scale in an NSX versus a 4-5 on most sports cars because of its high grip levels and it being tough to control when that is lost. If you are learning car control on the track, you are risking going into a wall. You need to become comfortable with what this car does once all grip is lost with YOUR setup. When you know the limits and how to control it, you will automatically be much faster on the track. Becoming fast for a beginner has a lot to do with losing fear... the car's limits are higher than most people realize. Mainly, you learn on the track not to do something stupid. You start off by not asking the tires to turn and brake at the same time or not to lift mid-turn. You learn to have smooth inputs... but you still haven't learned NSX control. You will always be cautious because of the fear of "losing it". For that you need AutoX, where you can go way over the limits and there's nothing to hit. You need to spin out... over and over. You can do drift clinics where you are encouraged to push the tail out and control it (very difficult in an NSX but can be done). The combination of good car control and being smooth then create a fast driver/car on the track. If you start at autox, and do ONLY That, you may pickup a lot of bad habits. I have seen some fast autox guys that are horrendous with their inputs, nothing but abrupt. On the track that will put them into a wall. It's doing things in combination where I personally have made big gains. So I am just sharing this for info. You will have a lot of fun on the track and as a novice its very safe as you just don't push that hard. All these things like sway bar setups come into play when you are beyond that and pushing hard. Until then, it's mostly just theory.
Thanks for the useful information. I've been wanting to ask you or any of the other experienced track guys this stuff for a while. I appreciate it.
 
You haven't listed your wheel and tires, your pressures, alignment settings, etc. On a street driven car, if you are inexperienced, I would stay safe and go with more understeer. Try full stiff front and medium rear. Then change to full rear and medium front. Experiment some place safe. Where you are driving, how you take turns, your style, there are so many things that affect this.

I've been on the track a few years and there are certainly guys here that are more experienced than I am. But the one thing that has become very clear to me is that you can drive ANY setup fast. It is so difficult to separate car from driver and say "this setup is a fast setup and this setup is a slow setup" because I have learned to adjust my driving AROUND any shortcomings a car may have in a particular situation. I may attack a turn differently and exit differently depending on how the car is behaving at the time. Blanket statements of "this is good and this is bad" which I used to constantly look for, nay not have a lot of value for your situation.

Like I said, the full stiff front and medium rear would be my start, then medium front and full rear so you can feel the difference but on the street.... you have to drive really unlawfully to be able to test. I highly recommend getting yourself into autoX as that allows you to really push and exceed the limits without repercussions. You will learn and know your car a lot more there and make adjustments you really have felt. Much better way to do it, $50 and totally safe.

Here are my specs:

Wheels - Advan Model 5s (F 17x7.5, R 17x9)
Tires - Advan AD08 (F 215/40/17, R 255/40/17)
Tire Pressure - F & R @ 36psi
Alignment - F (-1.5 degrees camber, -0.10 degrees toe out), R (-3.0 degrees camber, -0.10 degrees toe in)

My suspension/chassis mods are (from first post):

- KW V3 (lowered to 1/2-finger gap)
- LoveFab rear targa brace
- NSX-R front chassis bar
- GT-Spec lower chassis bar

I have not tracked the NSX, but I have done just a couple of track events and a Skip Barber racing program at Lime Rock. I don't plan to track or autox my car because it's in perfect condition and I want to keep it that way. However, I do take it on spirited drives around the backroads where I live.

I won't ever push the car to its limits, but the first thing I did notice when first drove the car was that an initial urge to push around the corners. Installing the KWs and all of the chassis braces helped turn-in response, but I still experience noticeable understeer. My hope is to use the sway bars to dial that out.

If I recall, the proportionate amount of increased stiffness for the SOS/CT sway bars is greater for the rear than the front. That is, the front bar is only 150% stiffer than OEM while the rear is actually 200% stiffer than OEM - is that correct? I'm wondering if that also contributes to why people choose a stiffer setting in the front to balance out the disparity.
 
Quick update...

Had the SOS swaybars installed, which are the same as the CT Engineering bars - they even had CT's stamp on them. I'm not sure if they changed the design, but I noticed that both the front and rear bars had 3 mounting points to adjust the stiffness (previously, I had thought the rear bar only had 2 settings).

In order to play it relatively safe, I chose to install both bars using the middle holes. That way, I could still adjust the stiffness front and rear if necessary to suit my driving style. However, after just a quick drive around my backroads I must say that I'm perfectly happy with where both bars are currently set. The sway bars did exactly what I wanted them to do - they reduced body roll even further and improved both initial turn-in response and mitigated understeer. In particular, I feel the car pivoting around me much easier in the turns than before.

Overall, I'm very happy with the swaybars. They don't completely transform the handling characteristics like a set of coilovers do, but they work in collaboration with them and add an extra level of control/fine tuning that coilovers can't do alone. Also, in terms of bang for your buck they can't be beat. Highly recommended.
 
Back
Top