spun bearing-help

[s-zero]

Hi guys,
Just found out that i have a spun bearing. the rod bearing no 2 was almost gone and the crank is scored. no 4 beside it is also badly worn now, almost half gone. Does anybody know if there are any aftermarket undersize bearings for the rods or will i have to do the dealer thing and buy two new rods and a crank? A local crankshaft shop said that they could chrome it and grind it and it would be like new but i use it on the track so im a little scepticle about reusing it for such abuse. Any input would be appreciated, thanks.

 

[Arata]

Call Tom at Precision Crankshaft. Tell him what you have, he is the best I have ever used. 208 321 8134
As for the rods, without seeing them it is hard to say for sure, but I would bet they are toast, as they are ti, so the sides are plasma sprayed, they are most likly also damaged.

 

[BadCarma]

contact Gerry Johnson , Factor X OR Larry Bastanza.depending where you are located any one of these shops can bring it back back to life depending what else they find when its opened up.

did someone already open it up? they may indicate a used motor that is still sound is the best option (EZR)unless you decide that its busted anyway so you might as well build up the internals.all depends on what they find and how fat your wallet is But you do have options. keep your chin up and keep us posted.

spun bearings is something I worry about on N2O motors running higher the 100 shot or 100 shot in first gear on stock internals with the spray initiatated at 2500 rpm instead of 3800 with stock pump.do you spray?or miss a 5-4 shift? if not what happened?I am asking for the benifit of all the guys that run hard.sorry to hear it and hope it gets resolved with little cash outlay as possible and still have it done right.

 

[s-zero]

I just bought the car a few months ago and it has 120k miles on it and it didnt sound really noisy at the time. The compression was fine and it sounded like valvetrain noise. Unfortunately it got worse and worse, no wonder the guy sold it. Anyways, i dont think the car was tracked or anything. I talked to mark basch and rm racing and they said that its a common occurrence on a few nsx's where the no 2 rod bearing gets spun but everything else is ok, even the pump?! I'll probably just take the hit and buy a new crank, 1 rod and some fresh rings and hone job and take it to the track again. thanks for all the input and any more that you guys might have.

Jimbo

 

[sjs]

Yea, number two seems to be the weak link in the oiling. Sorry to hear about the problems. I'm not sure what kind of discounts are available but a new crank plus one new rod+piston (only sold together) list for $5-6k. I can't recall if the crank id $3800 or $4800, but it was a bunch, and the rod+pistion about $900. Add in bearings and gaskets, plus O2 pump, t-belt and hoses while you're at it, and even before labor you are looking at more than a nice 3.2 from a low miles wreck. If money is a significant issue you might want to consider a good used engine.

 

[NSXTech]

I have 6 or 7 bad cranks standing against the wall- I just can't seem to throw them away. All were from N/A cars and all but two had no oil pump failures.
Most, despite the customers comments to the contrary (many are second owners and may not know better) show sighns of either insuffient oil changes, or an overheating event.
The alloy that the valve train and crank girdles are made of "stain" for lack of a better description or word.
On a car with plenty of frequent oil changes and no overheating episodes, the metal has a bright look that is very much different than that of the same parts that have been cooked in, or allowed to languish in dirty or hot oil. I really don't see much of a mystery-
the engines with the bad cranks all look pretty much the same inside. The one exception is the 95 that I recently transplanted a 2000 3.2 into. It was spotless inside.

Don't EVER let a machinist talk you into repairing ANY Honda crank. The bearings are select fit only, therefore it is virtually impossible to buy bearings for your newly repaired crank. And if you spun a bearing, make sure and have the rod big ends checked for size, or in the case of a main bearing (usually associated with a shattered oil pump) have the line bore checked. Its okay to resize rods up to about .015 if you have a REALLY good machinist, and he will then have to select your bearing sizes for you with an inside ball mic'. If the line bore is bad, the engine is junk. This is most uncommon- almost any NSX engine can be rebuilt by someone competant for way less than the cost of a new replacement. Sometimes a good deal on a good used motor is a better alternative. Depends on the cost of repl,

Real Shame it happens,
MB

 

[s-zero]

I worked out the pricing and get a hookup at a dealer and the pricing for rings bearings 1 rod and crand will come to 3000 usd so i will probably do that with a new w/p t belt as well. I cant find any decent used engines with warranty for under 4000 us so i will probably just fix mine. I guess its probably a good idea to buy the comptech billet oil pump gear set while i'm at it too.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

s-zero,

Is this $3000 price of yours an estimate or firm?? Personally I think it may look like $1000 savings NOW, but it may not be later. Please be very careful on your choice in this matter.

The funny thing is, once they "go in" your wallet cannot turn back.

I have seen this go VERY wrong in the past, and there was no saving realized, in fact it was more costly.

JMO,
LarryB

 

[sjs]

$3000 for a new crank plus rod & piston ?. Something wrong with that picture unless they are giving you the parts at cost, and even then it sounds low. As Larry said, be very cautious.

Did you notice that Erz listed a decent short-block for $2500?