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Too many products!! I am confused...please help.

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Okay...in my quest for perfection, I think I have read too much information, now I am confused more than when I started. Initially I was between the Porter Cable and the Griots buffer. My reading has narrowed down that the Porter Cable is probably the best choice for results. The problem is, there are about a BILLION products out there to use with it!! There is Menzerna, Meguiars, Zymol, Zaino, etc, and everyone seems to say theirs is the best. So, are they all really that similar? I want a mirror perfect finish, with NO swirl marks....NONE!! Is this realistic? What can get me there? I have a headache from reading everything...so please help. Thank you!

~ Mitch ~
 
Call George Dushensky at Detailed Image. Very, very sharp guy. He'll get you started. I have tried many, many products and really like the stuff George set me up with...Here is a thread he started full of info.
 
I want a mirror perfect finish, with NO swirl marks....NONE!! Is this realistic? What can get me there? I have a headache from reading everything...so please help. Thank you!

~ Mitch ~

If you are talking absolutes, then 100% ZERO swirl marks is not realistic. Some swirls/scratches may be too deep for polishing and may still be visible, but you can get very very close to having ZERO marks in the paint if you are patient and careful w/ the machine.

I use Detailing Dynamics products on my NSX. I use them by hand and everyone comments on how clean my car always looks. I bet if I used a machine it would look even better.

Go here: www.detailingdynamics.com
http://www.detailingdynamics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT&Store_Code=DDOS

Their main location is in New York, but their products expert is in CA:
Detailing Dynamics Online, Inc.
Santa Clara, CA 95051
(866) DET-DyNA (338-3962) toll free
(408) 249-1017 (local)
(408) 260-7576 (fax)
information

AOL IM: MikeLeeDDynamics
 
If you really want that mirror finish and remove most of those swirl marks you have to go with a rotary buffer. The Porter Cable just won't cut it. Rotary buffers have a higher degree for damage if not used correctly. The Porter Cable is a good intermediate tool and has less risk for damage to paint.

With the PC, don't be afraid of apply pressure. When I first got it, I was afraid to cause damage to the paint. I went to a Megiuar's workshop and he showed me that the PC is very forgiving. The PC does not generate enough heat to burn paint. Just make sure you use the right pads (never use any wool pads). You need to apply enough pressure to break down the polishing compound. Just make sure if the pad is not oscillating, then ease up a bit.

Make sure you get a couple of Velcro back pads and a Velcro plate. The one it usually comes with is useless.

I am not a expert in detailing, but these are the step that were taught to me and I have success using.

Here is my steps and the products I use:

Products:
Megiuar's NXT car wash soap - very sudsy.
Detailing Clay - I forget which one I use. (there is different grades of clay)
Meguiars #83 - Dual Action Cleaner Polish
Meguiars #80 - Speed Glaze Polish
Meguiars NXT Generation Tech Wax - Liquid not the paste
P21s Wax
Meguiar Quick Wax Spray
Meguiar Quick Detail Spray
2 Velcro Polish Pads
2 Velcro Finishing Pad
3 Micro Fiber Bonnets
Micro Fiber Towels (remove all tags)

Steps:
Wash and Clay:
1. Wash car with Meguiars NXT car wash soap. Rinse with water but do not dry.
2. Wash again with Meguiars NXT car wash soap one panel at a time. Don't rinse with water yet. Keep it soapy.
3. Use detailing clay and rub away. You want to put a bit of pressure on the clay. Don't be afraid here, but don't' over do it. Frequently knead the clay into a ball and flatten to get a clean surface.
4. Rinse area with water and start on next area. Repeat for the rest of the car.
5. When finished with the body, use the clay for the windows, headlights, and tail lights.
6. Rinse and dry car.

TIP: If your PC comes with a handle, I suggest removing it. It has a high potential to accidental cause damage to the paint. Plus you will find it is more comfortable without it.

First Polish: (Meguiars #83) This step will remove most of the swirl marks.
TIPS:
-Do not let Polish dry to remove. You should remove polish before it dries. It does not need time to dry like wax.
-Do not turn on or off the PC unless it is against a panel. Or else you will learn quickly how the PC spin will throw polish everywhere.
-Start from top to bottom, do the roof first. Do the bumpers, side skirts, and bottom panels last; they are the dirtiest panels and you will minimize scratches by doing it this way.

7. Put Polish Pad on PC. Spray a little of Meguiars Quick Detail Spray on Pad. This keeps the polish from soaking the pad.
8. Squeeze some Polish (Meguiars #83) on the Pad. Place the pad against the paned before you turn it on. (Do not turn on or off the PC without it being against a panel or else you will throw polish everywhere).
9. Set the PC to speed 3 to quickly speed the product around the product(the run of thumb is speed 3 to start and speed 5-6 to apply/remove). Turn on the PC. Spread the polish around quickly around the panel. Increase speed to 5-6.
10. At speed 5-6, Move in a SLOW, very SLOW, linear line (You should be moving about only 6 inches every 10secs). You need to apply a bit of pressure. Press down until it stops oscillating, then ease up until it starts to oscillate comfortable around. This is how much pressure you need to apply for the polish. You need to break down the polish for an effective job. Do one panel at a time.
11. Get another pad and apply a micro fiber bonnet on top. Switch pads.
12. Set the PC to speed 5. Place it against a panel before you turn it on. Remove the polish.
13. Get a microfiber towel and fold it in a small square and remove the remaining polish.
14. Switch back to the polish pad and repeat for the rest of the panels.

2nd Polish (Meguair's #80):
TIPS:
-Do not let Polish dry to remove. You should remove polish before it dries. It does not need time to dry like wax.
-Do not turn on or off the PC unless it is against a panel. Or else you will learn quickly how the PC spin will throw polish everywhere.
-Start from top to bottom, do the roof first. Do the bumpers, side skirts, and bottom panels last; they are the dirtiest panels and you will minimize scratches by doing it this way.

15. Use a new set of pads and bonnet.
16. Repeat steps 7-14 Using the Meguair's #80.

1st Wax (NXT Tech Wax): This step will help protect your hard work so far. This wax gives a good shine and very durable.
-Wax needs time to dry before removing. A good rule for dry time is the swipe test: Take your dry finger and quickly swipe against the wax. If it smears, then it needs more time to dry.

17. Switch to the finishing pad.
Put Polish Pad on PC. Spray a little of Meguiars Quick Detail Spray on Pad. This keeps the polish from soaking the pad.
18. Squeeze some NXT Tech Wax on the Pad. Place the pad against the paned before you turn it on. (Do not turn on or off the PC without it being against a panel or else you will throw polish everywhere).
19. Set the PC to speed 3 to quickly speed the product around the product(the run of thumb is speed 3 to start and speed 5-6 to apply/remove). Turn on the PC. Spread the wax around quickly around the panel. Increase speed to 5-6.
20. At speed 5-6, Move around the panel. You do not have to do this step as slow as the polishing step. You do not have to put too much pressure here. During wax, you do not have to break down the compound.
21. Move to another panel. You can probably do half of the car until you have to switch and remove the wax.
22. Get another pad and apply a micro fiber bonnet on top. Switch pads.
23. Set the PC to speed 5. Place it against a panel before you turn it on. Remove the wax.
24. Get a microfiber towel and fold it in a small square and remove the remaining wax.
25. Switch back to the polish pad and repeat for the rest of the car.

Apply another layer of NXT Wax:
26. Repeat steps 17 - 25. You can use the same pad as before, but it is always best to use new pads.

27. Your car should be nice and shiny. The NXT will give it a very glossy look. But if you want a deeper, wet looking color, then apply P21s wax on top of the NSX Wax:

Apply P21s Wax on top of NXT Wax:
28. Let the car set for at 24 hrs before applying P21S after apply the NXT wax for best results.
29. Repeat steps 17 -25 using P21s.

Apply another layer of P21S Wax.


Good Luck
 
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PC is a good first machine. So is a cyclo. I would not start with a rotary unless you have a local pro to teach you. The PC on steriods - UDM, is coming out in a couple of weeks. Might be worth the wait.
Polishes: Menzerna or Optimum. I prefer the first.
Buy the best MF towels you can find and get a good, slick wash and wash/dry routine to keep your finish perfect after polishing. Polishing is hard work and you don't want to do it too often.
A perfect finish is possible but depends on the current condition of your car. Either way it can look better than 99.99% of other cars.
 
Thank you all for the information. How did all of you learn to use these items? I do not want to just try to figure it out by trial and error with the NSX. Hurting my baby would kill me. :frown:
 
PC, cyclo and UDM are really safe (in that order).
There are many How To Guides on detailing forums or hook up with a local detailer. Good luck.
You can also practice on old panels or freinds' beaters.
 
Mitch, just try a couple of polishes and find the one you like best. I use 3 different brands for 3 different stages of swirl removal. Depends on the car and how thick the clear coat is. I always start with the mildest pad and polish. Then get more agressive if the results are not to my liking. Once I know which works best....I write it down so I don't forget next year when I do swirl removal. :redface: You shold bring your scronny butt to the auto show next week and we'll work on it. Rich (UBETIT) lives right around the corner and he is the master detailer....in case we screw up.:eek:
Ray
 
Mitch, just try a couple of polishes and find the one you like best. I use 3 different brands for 3 different stages of swirl removal. Depends on the car and how thick the clear coat is. I always start with the mildest pad and polish. Then get more agressive if the results are not to my liking. Once I know which works best....I write it down so I don't forget next year when I do swirl removal. :redface: You shold bring your scronny butt to the auto show next week and we'll work on it. Rich (UBETIT) lives right around the corner and he is the master detailer....in case we screw up.:eek:
Ray

Cool. Which show is it that you are referring to?
 
Funny that I just stumpled upon this thread. I just spent 2 hours on the Griots Garage website. 2 hours and $300 later, I think I got all I needed. I get my car washed at work for free whenever I want, nothing like throwing away money.:redface:
 
Funny that I just stumpled upon this thread. I just spent 2 hours on the Griots Garage website. 2 hours and $300 later, I think I got all I needed. I get my car washed at work for free whenever I want, nothing like throwing away money.:redface:

I hope your lot porters rinse out their wash mits and change that dirty water more regularly that most. Nothing like washing your car with someone elses dirt! :eek:
 
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