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Tow Hooks & Tow Points & last min Q before track...

Joined
11 August 2007
Messages
185
Location
Southern California
Hello All,

I am going to be running Spring Mountain Coming up on 5/14 and I just had a few questions...

I see the factory tow hook in the front however for the rear I can only identify the tow points...

However are there any options when it comes to aftermarket tow hooks?

Lastly I am still running stock pads and rotors...

However I will be swapping brake fluids to RBF600 before the track...

Will they be sufficient?

Any last min tips about the car? Its my first time driving the nsx at the track I will take it easy but I am wondering what I might be missing...

So for you track nuts out there that wouldnt mind sharing some tips and wisdom about the nsx at the track I would really appreciate it...

Thanks again...

Jeff
 
Hi Ogs, To address part of your inquiries:
"I see the factory tow hook in the front however for the rear I can only identify the tow points...

However are there any options when it comes to aftermarket tow hooks?"

I find every towing experience to be a learning experience, and in no way am I an expert or veteran tower. Guess it's like most things, the more you do it the easier and smoother the process is. So I am always seeking advice and reading anything about towing and towing tips that I can. So that brings me to an article I just read in SCCA's "SportsCar" magazine - issue dated May 11th volume 69 number 5, page 58 entitled "Tips to tying down." It has a photo of the T, R, and J hooks, and I found it helpful. When I towed NSX in an enclosed trailer, we strapped the rears to the lower A-arm suspensions.

If you wish, PM me with your e-mail addy and I will attempt to scan this one page article and e-mail it to you.

And good luck at Spring Mountain! We were there (but did not track) at NSXPO last fall. What a magnificent facility and track!
 
Stock pads and rotors with fresh RBF600 will be perfectly fine. I ran stock pads and rotors for a bunch of events and never had an issue. The main improvement that is needed to the brakes when you get quicker is ducting to the front rotors. Then perhaps track oriented pads like Carbotech XP-10's or XP-8's, but the stock setup will take you pretty far.
 
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If you mean "tow hook" as in "tie it down on a trailer", then the NSX is pretty accomodating.

If you mean "tow me out of the gravel trap", then there's really only one on the front.

That's one thing that I'd be looking to add myself when I start tracking my car more, an accessable (i.e. accessible if the car is, heaven forbid, up to its axles in gravel, tall grass, etc.) tow loop.
 
If you mean "tow hook" as in "tie it down on a trailer", then the NSX is pretty accomodating.

If you mean "tow me out of the gravel trap", then there's really only one on the front.

That's one thing that I'd be looking to add myself when I start tracking my car more, an accessable (i.e. accessible if the car is, heaven forbid, up to its axles in gravel, tall grass, etc.) tow loop.

SM doesn't have deep gravel, tall grass or walls. A stock NSX would be fine for the first 2 to 4 times at the track.

Lance
 
SM doesn't have deep gravel, tall grass or walls. A stock NSX would be fine for the first 2 to 4 times at the track.

Lance

Yes I meant Tow me out of the gravel trap...

That is good to know guys...

Appreciate the tips and assistance...

And that is good to hear that there are not gravel grass or walls...

Now I am ready to have some fun... :biggrin
 
Get ready for an expensive addiction! :D

Read up on tire pressures too. One of the best things I did for my car was go from normal street tires to performance (Dunlop Z1 star specs) tires. So, once you do this event and get addicted start thinking about tires and brake pads :tongue:. Another "cheap" upgrade is the CG-Lock for the seat belt. It's no harness, but it does hold you in better than the stock belts alone.
 
Get ready for an expensive addiction! :D

Read up on tire pressures too. One of the best things I did for my car was go from normal street tires to performance (Dunlop Z1 star specs) tires. So, once you do this event and get addicted start thinking about tires and brake pads :tongue:. Another "cheap" upgrade is the CG-Lock for the seat belt. It's no harness, but it does hold you in better than the stock belts alone.

Ahhh... yes... too late...

I have tracked my e46 m3 in the past but this is my first track event in a MR car...

Tire I am ready... I am running AD08's right now...

CG Lock I will look into cuz thats my gripe about the car right now...

My m3's stock seat held me in sooo well but the nsx seat i am sliding all over in a hard corner...

I think racing seats is next though :biggrin:
 
Lastly I am still running stock pads and rotors...

However I will be swapping brake fluids to RBF600 before the track...

Will they be sufficient?
Yes.

However, any time you go to the track, it's a good idea to bring an extra set of brake pads with you. With the NSX, that means front AND rear, since it uses both when tracking. The extra set should be whatever kind of pads you think you might want to try next, when you use up the pads. Don't worry, this money won't be wasted, because you'll need to replace pads at some point, and it will be soon if you're going to the track.

I'm assuming from the question that at this point you want to use the same pads on the track as you do on the street. So you might want to consider a slightly more aggressive but still street-friendly pad such as the Hawk HP+. If you want to get a separate set of track-only pads, that's another way of going, but they may have downsides (squealing, ineffectiveness when cold) that will make you want to swap pads before and after every track event, which is why I've always stuck with street-friendly pads like the HP+. I've found the best prices on HP+ at Discount Performance.

Any last min tips about the car?
Before going out on the track, remove your plastic center caps from your wheels. Also, take the spare tire out of the car, and also to remove the rubber caps from the ends of the cross-piece that it leans against.

Yes I meant Tow me out of the gravel trap...
Another tip - don't try to set the track record when you first start out. Start out slow and cautious, and increase your speed in small increments, lap to lap and session to session. That will reduce the chances of going into the gravel trap in the first place.

Also, do a little homework beforehand. Learn what the line is, and an early apex, and a late apex. Learn how your line changes, how you can recognize an early line because you run out of track at the exit, and use that to adjust your line. If and when you do find yourself going off the track, try to do so as straight as possible, with only minor steering corrections. DO NOT go off sideways.

Good luck, and have fun!
 
first track event in a MR car...

Mind the lift-throttle oversteer. :biggrin:

NSX isn't too snappy due to a long-ish wheelbase, but if your on the gas in a sweeper, it's probably not a good idea to take your foot off the pedal suddenly. Careful with trail-braking as well.

Also, the slip angle you can get away with will be FAR less than in your BMW.
 
Regarding the tow hook itself on the front, I've seen some NSX's with a very nice aftermarket one in the same general area that seems to be more easily accessible and a bit "flashier". Anyone know which ones are a simple bolt on application?

I dug around trying to find a photo for reference of the NSX I saw on the forum the other day, but I can't find it to save my life.
 
I totally agree, the CG Lock is a great inexpensive investment for OEM belts.

. Another "cheap" upgrade is the CG-Lock for the seat belt. It's no harness, but it does hold you in better than the stock belts alone.
 

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You'll be fine with stock brakes for awhile.
Just depends on how much tracking you do and how fast you go...
I started out many years ago with stock brakes running Super Blue Racing Fluid and Project Mu pads. I also ran air deflectors into the rotors for air circulation.

I eventually went to the RB Racing Brake Rotors and started using Carbotech XP-8's.

Now I'm suing Brembo GP's, Carbotech XP-10's Super Blue Brake Fluid and air deflectors. I have no braking issues at all.
 
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There are others on the market, but you take your chances if they will line up with the oem bolt holes that it gets bolted to.

Good luck with it.

Yes, however:

1. Is easy to add/remove for the 02-05 front? I have a 04.
2. Anywhere other than Dali I can buy? Dali doesn't exactly carry the best reliability around here and I would rather not roll the dice on vendor service/delivery.
 
Thanks guys for all the tips and feedback...

I cant wait...

Will report back...

Jeff
 
The most important thing out there Jeff....Is to have fun !
 
It looks like we'll have the full 3.4 miles of track. Lots of long straights which means lots of braking. Get a set of oversized brake ducts (Coz has some for sale in the classifieds now) to go with your street/track pads and bed-in those brakes properly and you're good to go!

Have fun!

btw... Autoblog just did an article on SMMR. This is what the run-offs probably resemble
http://www.autoblog.com/2011/05/02/back-to-school-learning-the-zr1-at-the-ron-fellows-performance/
61-ron-fellows-driving-school-opt.jpg
 
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A lot of run off area's at SM. It is a first class track.

6 more days, Yahoo !

If anybody going may 7th wants those brake ducts, let me know and I will bring them. We can put them on there.
But I believe Jeff's doing the Speed Ventures event the following week.
 
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Thanks for all the tips again...

After thinking and talking to some wise mens...

I have decided to do the following upgrades prior to going out there...

1) Non Compliance Toe Links
2) Non Compliance Front Pivot Clamps
3) Dali Front Sway Bar 0.75 Version
4) Carbotech XP8 Front and Carbotech AX6 Rear
5) Brake Ducts (THanks to Coz)

Now the task is to get all parts in and installed by the 5/13 for the drive up to Vegas...

Will report back...
 
you really don't need items 1 and 2 for your first event.in fact I would waite till you can feel and understand the "slop" in the rear rubber bushings in turns ,and you can effectivly threashhold brake for the clamps.
 
you really don't need items 1 and 2 for your first event.in fact I would waite till you can feel and understand the "slop" in the rear rubber bushings in turns ,and you can effectivly threashhold brake for the clamps.

Thanks I will keep that in mind...

I might save the clamps and toe link for my next track day just simple because I dont think I have time to install everything...

But either way I think I am on the right track thanks to all of you...

Jeff
 
Would having a baffled oil pan be a MUST when tracking your car often too?

tough to answer but all I can do is give you my data point..I did destroy a bearing at pocono on my original engine after 2 years of novice tracking with street tires.I had no bearing issues after the rebuild as I got faster and went to R compounds...that said now after over 100 events and many years..I finaly got my billet oil pump gears and a baffled oil pan:redface:
 
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