Two issues - thoughts?

[bleudyno]

Hey guys, I have two issues that I wanted to ask about -

1. What RPM are you idling at? Once warmed up a little, my cars idles at 1100-1200 and will stay there for a while. After driving a little, it tends to go down a little to 900-1000. Just wondering if this might be something I need to look into or is it normal? I don't think it is if I'm not mistaken.

2. Once in a while, the car won't start up right away. Sometimes nothing happens at all (no lights, no sounds) and somethings it will try to start but I'll here a relay clicking away from the front passenger side when I try to start. Battery issue?

 

[99targa]

#1 . At Idle...I'm usually around 800.
#2 . I would put your battery on a battery charger overnight and then fire it up the next morning and see how that goes? Or, take your battery to AutoZone, O'Reilly's and have them do a battery check (to rule out the battery).

 

[Old Guy]

#1 - Are you talking about something other than the high idle speed on start up that is associated with the air pump operation on the 2000+ LEV cars. Depending on ambient temperature, that lasts perhaps 4 minutes tops when it is cold out. Other than that, if the AC is off my idle is somewhere around 800 or a bit less. If your idle is persistently high, you could have a manifold air leak somewhere.

#2 - if you get no dash lights at all, I would have a look at your ignition switch which may be operating intermittently. Since the relay clicking you hear is coming from the front, that is not your main FI relay. I think it might be your starter cut relay. If the ignition switch is operating intermittently, this could be causing the starter cut relay to open and close. If your clutch interlock switch is faulty, this could also cause the cut relay to open and close. Check the condition of your battery cable connections. Due to enthusiastic tightening, the clamps stretch and then after a while fail to make good contact with the battery posts leading to flakey operation. Probably not the cause of your problem; but super easy to check and rule out.

 

[JD Cross]

Hey guys, I have two issues that I wanted to ask about -

1. What RPM are you idling at? Once warmed up a little, my cars idles at 1100-1200 and will stay there for a while. After driving a little, it tends to go down a little to 900-1000. Just wondering if this might be something I need to look into or is it normal? I don't think it is if I'm not mistaken.

2. Once in a while, the car won't start up right away. Sometimes nothing happens at all (no lights, no sounds) and somethings it will try to start but I'll here a relay clicking away from the front passenger side when I try to start. Battery issue?

Do you know if your engine is bone stock or was it turboed, supercharged, NOS or other changes to stock?
If it's not a manifold/hose leak it could be the idle settings were changed due to engine mods and not set back to stock.

How old is your battery?
If it's old or weak replace it. It's not worth all the headaches a weak battery will cause.
If the battery is okay and the cables are okay it's an awkward but not difficult job to remove the ignition switch.
Once removed it can be carefully opened, examined and if nothing worn out, clean the terminals and try it again.

 

[95nsxtc]

Hey guys, I have two issues that I wanted to ask about -

1. What RPM are you idling at? Once warmed up a little, my cars idles at 1100-1200 and will stay there for a while. After driving a little, it tends to go down a little to 900-1000. Just wondering if this might be something I need to look into or is it normal? I don't think it is if I'm not mistaken.

2. Once in a while, the car won't start up right away. Sometimes nothing happens at all (no lights, no sounds) and somethings it will try to start but I'll here a relay clicking away from the front passenger side when I try to start. Battery issue?

#1 - try anything else anyone said but also, try cleaning your throttle body as well for added insurance

#2 - i had this exact problem not too long ago, negative battery cable had to be replaced, this would be first thing id do with urs, 25-50$ fix lol

 

[bleudyno]

Do you know if your engine is bone stock or was it turboed, supercharged, NOS or other changes to stock?
If it's not a manifold/hose leak it could be the idle settings were changed due to engine mods and not set back to stock.

How old is your battery?
If it's old or weak replace it. It's not worth all the headaches a weak battery will cause.
If the battery is okay and the cables are okay it's an awkward but not difficult job to remove the ignition switch.
Once removed it can be carefully opened, examined and if nothing worn out, clean the terminals and try it again.

1. Engine is stock with no mods ever added on. Will check vacuum lines as well as cleaning the throttle body
2. Battery might need to be replaced but I'm going to check it as well as the negative cable.

Thanks you guys, this is a great forum!