Unofficial weight reduction thread

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In post #653 of this thread, Midnight_Raven stated that the firewall insulation mat weighed 12.6 lbs and that the tar insulation weighed 4.2 lbs per side. In total, that comes to 21.0 lbs.

If you removed 55-60 lbs, did you remove more than Midnight_Raven did? What exactly did you remove?

Glad you brought this up. I took a look at the firewall insulation mat today and it doesn't look like I can easily remove it in one piece in case I need to put it back. For those that have actually removed the mat, do you still think it was worth the 12lb savings?

On an unrelated note, does anyone know how the CF radio delete plate attach to the center console? Or does one just glue it on and call it a day? A picture of the backside of the delete plate would be helpful.

 

[Midnight_Raven]

Glad you brought this up. I took a look at the firewall insulation mat today and it doesn't look like I can easily remove it in one piece in case I need to put it back. For those that have actually removed the mat, do you still think it was worth the 12lb savings?

On an unrelated note, does anyone know how the CF radio delete plate attach to the center console? Or does one just glue it on and call it a day? A picture of the backside of the delete plate would be helpful.

You are correct. You need to cut the mat in certain parts to be able to remove it.

This NSX video blog I think is from nismor32gtr (I'm assuming it's him because it looks very similar to the pictures he posted of it). It looks like he doesn't have carpets, rear panel pieces, etc. Most likely that was included in his weight reduction total.

<iframe width="853" height="480" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/CzZunXRb2c8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

If you want a louder car and a rawer driving experience it's worth it.

 

[TURBO2GO]

Nice video. Dude is funny. I had never seen this before. Interesting idea on hood and fenders.

 

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If you want a louder car and a rawer driving experience it's worth it.

Alright, you convinced me. The insulation mat is coming off tomorrow.

 

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I just removed all of the firewall insulation mat and the car sounds amazing from within the cabin. The difference is noticeable. I definitely know what Midnight_Raven means by "louder car and rawer experience." I have a Pride V2 exhaust with resonated test pipes and aftermarket headers.

I also weighed the mat on a bathroom scale and yes, the mat is around 12.5 lbs. despite how flimsy and light the material seems. Now before you all go rip off your insulation mat, keep in mind that "loudness" is subjective. I figured if I didn't like how it sounds, I could always put some dynamat or something.

 

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On an unrelated note, does anyone know how the CF radio delete plate attach to the center console? Or does one just glue it on and call it a day? A picture of the backside of the delete plate would be helpful.

For future dieters: I ordered and installed the SOS CF radio delete plate and the back is just 3M tape precisely cut to the shape of the plate. Excellent piece. This is unlike the more expensive OEM NSX-R plate which have holes that screw into some mount. Hope this was helpful.



BTW, this thread is dead. Maybe everything has been done already and/or interest in weight reduction has gone down.

 

[Rope]

Interest is not gone, have you gone through the whole thread? If you can come up with other ideas to reduce weight, let us know.

 

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Interest is not gone, have you gone through the whole thread? If you can come up with other ideas to reduce weight, let us know.

Yes sir, several times too. I was hoping more people would post their lightweight updates and experiences on this thread but maybe they just post on their individual build threads or not bother posting at all. I don't have a lot of original ideas for weight reduction, but I do appreciate this forum for steering me in the right direction.

I'll contribute by weighing my car and listing what I've done, but it won't be for another couple of weeks (10/7) when I get it dynoed at the same time.

 

[Rope]

I can't remember if it is in here or not but you can also do an ABS delete offered by Liftnot which takes about 25lbs off. Doing that, the beams, exhaust, battery, suspension, stereo mods/delete, spare tire, tools, trunk carpet, engine cover, carbon fiber bits, seats, and sound deadening should get you down to the 2700 range, to go lower you will need to get more creative.

 

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A couple of weights that seems to be missing on the thread. I weighed these items on a bathroom scale. Car year is 1991:

Cruise control actuator and brackets = 3.6 lbs.
Glove box = 3 lbs. Surprisingly light. Not worth taking out unless you go fully stripped interior IMO.

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I can't remember if it is in here or not but you can also do an ABS delete offered by Liftnot which takes about 25lbs off. Doing that, the beams, exhaust, battery, suspension, stereo mods/delete, spare tire, tools, trunk carpet, engine cover, carbon fiber bits, seats, and sound deadening should get you down to the 2700 range, to go lower you will need to get more creative.

Ah yes, thanks for the reminder. I have to read about it more and make a call whether I need ABS or not (risk vs. reward).

 

[scammy]

ok here are some weights on the Standard OEM caliper from a 91 with the larger bracket for the 97+ rotors vs going for the Spoon caliper the pads on the 91 are half worn so a saving of 3kgs per side
http://http://

 

[whrdnsx]

Just Made these
Lightweight Alloy OEM Tie downs
Half the weight of the OEM steel Items & still strong enough to be used. (Tested on my own NSX on a Car Carrier across the USA)
Will be going off for Black Anodising shortly.

 

[Midnight_Raven]

Just a FYI if you own a 1991-1992 NSX and have replaced the steering wheel with a non-airbaged wheel you can save a further 2.4lbs by removing the SRS module that sits inside at the base of the center console. 4 T30 torx bolts hold it in place. Two of my 4 where seized so I just drilled out the rivet insert and will put a new one in if I ever need to reinstall the module. I'm assuming if you go ahead an remove all the SRS wiring and the two sensors that sit under the dash it'll probably be close to 5lbs removed. I left the sensors and wiring in case I even want to go back. Also I weighed the rear antenna and got a weigh difference of 3.4lbs. I read it was 1.7-2 lbs but I'm getting at least a lb more maybe because I'm including removal of bracket which they left? Either way that's my contribution.

Update: I've finally turned on my car this winter and noticed the SRS light stays on because the SRS control module has been removed. I'll have to try to determine which pins need to be jumped to turn the light off. Hopefully I can find it if not this might be something I'll have to toss back in.

 

[scammy]

Just Made these
Lightweight Alloy OEM Tie downs
Half the weight of the OEM steel Items & still strong enough to be used. (Tested on my own NSX on a Car Carrier across the USA)
Will be going off for Black Anodising shortly.

nice just ordered the NA2 starter motor for mine and a lexan hatch

 

[solidol]

Bumping this awesome thread up: random find for Volk wheel weights - http://measurespeed.com/volk-rims-wheel-weight.php

 

[scammy]

While putting the new engine in I decided to weigh the 2 Dampers that I have OEM and ATI;
that's a 3 on the OEM one under that black paint,

And under the black paint on this one its a 2,

 

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Finally got to weigh my car. 2801 with a full tank of gas (literally drove one mile to the shop). It's a 91.

Weight reduction off the top of my head:
- Radio and speakers
- Insulation behind rear cabin panels
- Rear tie-downs
- Spare tire, jack, and tools
- Trunk liner
- Passenger side engine fan
- Cruise control
- Antenna motor
- Shorai battery
- CF hood and fenders
- Volk TE37s 17x8.5, 18x9.5
- Headers (don't know the brand), Pride V2, Pride test pipes

Hope this helps someone.

 

[MrHugo]

Finally got to weigh my car. 2801 with a full tank of gas (literally drove one mile to the shop). It's a 91.

Weight reduction off the top of my head:
- Radio and speakers
- Insulation behind rear cabin panels
- Rear tie-downs
- Spare tire, jack, and tools
- Trunk liner
- Passenger side engine fan
- Cruise control
- Antenna motor
- Shorai battery
- CF hood and fenders
- Volk TE37s 17x8.5, 18x9.5
- Headers (don't know the brand), Pride V2, Pride test pipes

Hope this helps someone.

Very Nice,

What is the Rear Tie-downs?

Did you also remove the computer unit for the cruise control? If so, where and how?

Was the insulation material behind rear cabin panels heavy? Do you think it's worth it?

Thanks

 

[Rope]

The rear tie downs are slightly aft of the rear wheels and can be seen through the wheel well. They are for strapping the car down for transit.

The computer for the cruise control sits behind the glove box and is in a tray with the security and abs computer.

The insulation behind the rear cabin panels is about 10 lbs if I remember correctly and if it is all that you are removing then no it is not worth it. If you are shedding every lbs you can then 10 her and 10 there can add up quickly.

 

[MrHugo]

The rear tie downs are slightly aft of the rear wheels and can be seen through the wheel well. They are for strapping the car down for transit.

The computer for the cruise control sits behind the glove box and is in a tray with the security and abs computer.

The insulation behind the rear cabin panels is about 10 lbs if I remember correctly and if it is all that you are removing then no it is not worth it. If you are shedding every lbs you can then 10 her and 10 there can add up quickly.

Thanks.

I already took out the ABS unit and cruise control buttons. Will it affect the security if I take out those computer units behind the glove box.

 

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Very Nice,

What is the Rear Tie-downs?

Did you also remove the computer unit for the cruise control? If so, where and how?

Was the insulation material behind rear cabin panels heavy? Do you think it's worth it?

Thanks

Basically what Rope said. The insulation was about 12 pounds. You'll hear the engine a bit more which could be a good or bad thing depending on your preferences. It was worth it for me since I'm trying to shed weight.

 

[liftnot]

Hugo,
whrdnsx from down-under #712 built a set of alum tie downs front and rear.

we are releasing the ABS delete kit w/ P-Valve provision. Ramon just installed the 1st unit this morning and its working well. (~15lbs. wt. reduction and it works all the time not just during threshold braking)

Ck the link and sign up.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...ete-w-Provision-for-Tilton-P-Valve(All-years)

FWIW, mine car is in the high 2500lbs w/o AC and I have ~100lbs more to loose. (B-pillar, Side duct, Exedy twin carbon, rear hatch, engine cover, preg-preg NSX specific seat, alternator relocation, ABS delete kit, etc.) We will be building a full CF NSX-R center console, in OEM, in double DIN and various other pieces that don't require the pre-preg(aka dry carbon) process.

.....The computer for the cruise control sits behind the glove box and is in a tray with the security and abs computer.
I have yet done this but its on the list. There are two control units back there. ABS & traction control. Not doing the insulation as my GTLW has plenty db and its location is at the lowest pt.

 

[Rope]

Thanks.

I already took out the ABS unit and cruise control buttons. Will it affect the security if I take out those computer units behind the glove box.

The ABS and Cruise control computers can be taken out without causing any issue but the security one must remain if you want the car to start. There is a power door lock one there too which you probably would like to have. So you can remove two out of the four computers without any issue and the bracket/tray that holds all of them is rather heavy. You can save more weight if you get creative an mount the computers without the tray. Oh and the TCS computer is behind the driver's seat if you are thinking of removing that as well.

 

[MrHugo]

Hugo,
whrdnsx from down-under #712 built a set of alum tie downs front and rear.

we are releasing the ABS delete kit w/ P-Valve provision. Ramon just installed the 1st unit this morning and its working well. (~15lbs. wt. reduction and it works all the time not just during threshold braking)

Ck the link and sign up.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...ete-w-Provision-for-Tilton-P-Valve(All-years)

FWIW, mine car is in the high 2500lbs w/o AC and I have ~100lbs more to loose. (B-pillar, Side duct, Exedy twin carbon, rear hatch, engine cover, preg-preg NSX specific seat, alternator relocation, ABS delete kit, etc.) We will be building a full CF NSX-R center console, in OEM, in double DIN and various other pieces that don't require the pre-preg(aka dry carbon) process.

.....The computer for the cruise control sits behind the glove box and is in a tray with the security and abs computer.
I have yet done this but its on the list. There are two control units back there. ABS & traction control. Not doing the insulation as my GTLW has plenty db and its location is at the lowest pt.

Tim,

Are you nuts? or depress & anorexic? 2500? I need to start loosing weight. Ok, now I am going to rethink about selling you my JRZs.

Ramon, still owns me a ABS lines bracket or a rerouting for cleaner look. Right now under my hood is like a spaghetti in making.


Rope, Thanks for clearing it up.

 

[liftnot]

>Are you nuts?
well, I do have a drinking problem:wink: .......of the non-alcoholic type.
You have the wrong gender to change your mind about your JRZ. :tongue: I need alum dampers not steel dampers, besides, its more sexy to buy things by the grams than buying things by the pound. Unsprung/rotational wt. matters a lot. I so wish Rays makes 15/16 CE28N at 5x114.3 but its not gonna happen.

The very 1st mod I did on my car was the frt/rear dry carbon bumpers and what a difference that made and I can feel it all the time at any speed. a lower PMI is a big deal for handling but not many are willing to take the bite.

My most recent trip covered 4k+ miles and it was all cool weather. If I knew the elements gonna be hot, that is what the boring Prius is for. Only 50% looking forward to the Expo in Palm Springs in Oct. and tracking at Chuck is gonna be blistering. Its costing more and more to loose wt. but my lb/hp ratio is improving all the time w/o scarifying reliability.

>Ramon, still owns me a ABS lines bracket or a rerouting for cleaner look.
you know, he is not an art-tist. and you know noodles taste better than spaghetti....thats why you need a proper ABS delete set up from Polish Flag...I mean Pole to Fag....I mean Pole 2 Flag.:biggrin: Our ABS system is not elegant/pretty by design but its not grotesque either. :redface: