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Unofficial weight reduction thread

Hi Jason and Simo and everyone else! I'm thinking about renting my friends intercomp scales for a "wiegh off" meet. If i can get enough people interested (for a minimal fee) i will be able to weigh each car with and without driver and if you have coilovers i will be able to tweak the suspension and get it to balance as close as possible. At least your car won't be like a crooked table! I used this scale on my 1600 lbs integra race car to get the most out of my contact patch. It should do wonders for you guys!

let me know what you think guys!
Definitely interested. That would be awesome.

I will be there for sure as long it doesn't conflict with my traveling schedule. Anytime after May 1st is fine.
 
I am a little surprised that nobody talked about reducing unsprung weight which is even more important than sprung weight. I would think 2 piece rotors would be a good starting point and removing the dust shields. Wheels and tires are probably the most important.
 
The dust shields are made of metal and are right behind the rotors. Haven't removed mine yet so I can't tell you how much weight you will save but anything on unsprung weight is worth it. Will be doing my brakes within the next month or so.
 
I just sanded off all of my paint and ordered a carbon fiber cigarette lighter!!! TOP THAT!!!:tongue:

You guys are obsessed!
 
I am a little surprised that nobody talked about reducing unsprung weight which is even more important than sprung weight. I would think 2 piece rotors would be a good starting point and removing the dust shields. Wheels and tires are probably the most important.

Did that back in 1996. Dust shields don't weigh much, maybe 1# each at most. The MMC rotors (14" front/ 13" rear) saved 10# up front and 8# in the rear. The Brembo calipers also saved 13# front and 11# rear for a total of 41#unsprung of which 18# is also rotational.

Regards,

Danny
 
Speaking of diets, check out the "ZERO-FORCE" NSX by Route-KS! With stock origins, this car weighs in under 1000 kilos or about 2200 lbs! Someone here thought about sanding off his paint, but what about dissolving adhesive residues with acid? I'm sure there's more weight to be shed!

This car also broke one minute around the Tsukuba Circuit, along with it's transmission::rolleyes:

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I am a little surprised that nobody talked about reducing unsprung weight which is even more important than sprung weight. I would think 2 piece rotors would be a good starting point and removing the dust shields. Wheels and tires are probably the most important.

It's been discussed although perhaps not in this thread. FWIW, the only weight advantage would be if a stock sized two piece rotor replaced an OE rotor. For the larger two piece rotors (in Stoptech's case), the rotor weighs roughly the same.

Last time I checked, Stoptech wasn't planning on offering their new carbon composite rotor for the NSX - which would signficantly reduce unsprung weight.
 
Thanks Simo for the update, I guess I will not be removing the front bumper for the reservoir.

Here is another item that trim weight and might actually free up additional hp.

GT-One lightweight crank pulley:
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Supra, No we never met bro:biggrin:

Where did you find this? I think it would be a nice mod if it's significantly lighter and balanced correctly.

Looked up GT-ONE found nothing. Did see some nice, drilled out Ti pieces from other Maker's but none made for NSX.

spooler
 
That sounds like what my clutch sounded like when it let go. It was a bright and sunny day at Stapelton (Denver) - downshifing from 5th to 4th... about 135mph... kablamo. Clutch let go. (111000.3 miles) When I pressed the clutch pedal in, it did not disengage. And, it made that clap-clap-clap sound as the tranny went around. Fow what its worth.
 
I was very encouraged this weekend as I weighed my car at the track scales at Heartland Park. 1992, no spare tire, no tools from trunk, driver's seat cushion (bottom) taken out. With just less than 1/4 tank of fuel, it weighed 2889. With the needle below empty and the yellow "low fuel light" just coming on, 2862.

Some people suggest weighing full of fuel to make it easier to compare. And, that is fine... easier to go up in fuel than down.

But, in racing classes, you weigh at the end of the race (ie low fuel), and usually with driver. I can see an argument for weighing with low or no fuel as being more useful.

In any event, I'm happy with 2862 empty and looking to go lower.
 
Got the car weighted today:

2791lbs with 1/4tank of fuel (John and Darin Nishimura are my witnesses). Full interior. I did not remove the floor mat or torque ranch in my trunk, because I forgot:frown:. Maybe another 5lbs off if I had removed these. I also have full size battery.

Break down of the stats:

554lbs(LF), 580lbs(RF)
814lbs(LR), 843lbs(RR)

Cross weight left 1394lbs, right 1397lbs (50%/50%)
Weight distribution 40.6% front, 59.4% rear
Total=2791lbs


Gas is 6lbs per gallon so add another 12.45x6=74.7lbs. Oem tank is 18.6gallon, the reserve is about 2 gallon (correct me if I am wrong). 16.6 x .75=12.45gallon (amount I add to get full weight)

2791lbs+74.7lbs=2865lbs full weight. A little bit disappointed with the weight, because my expectation were high, off my estimate by about 30lbs:mad: Regardless the weight reduction of using lighter parts really works. I have full weight battery too.

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John getting car corner balanced and alignment done by Darin Nishimura, the guy is a master at this. John also got his NSX weighted.
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We finally weighted Vance's Type R wheel. It weighted 18lbs rear, probably 17.xxlbs without the valve stem and all that dirt, 16lbs front. The OEM 02+ is 19.6lbs rear.
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Nice numbers, they aren't so bad. As for my car I think it's safe to say that it is near or under 2600lb's. Just the rear bumper beam, lightweight battery, and ac system add up to another 100lb's. Then we have the whole interior, stereo system, etc..... To those who doubted :tongue:
 
Nice numbers, they aren't so bad. As for my car I think it's safe to say that it is near or under 2600lb's. Just the rear bumper beam, lightweight battery, and ac system add up to another 100lb's. Then we have the whole interior, stereo system, etc..... To those who doubted :tongue:
Simo,
Thanks bro. Yours definitely in 2600lbs easily. Hit up Darin at West End alignment in Gardena on your way to OC. if you like to get it weighted. It only take 10 minutes. You will be very happy.

(310) 808-9233
18008 S Vermont Ave
Gardena, CA 90248
 
There are always things we over look. In my case I forgot I also have aftermarket 2-way pager alarm + USA spec adator for Ipod.

I have been using local post office's electronic scale to weight items. If there is no actual weight data yet. I highly recommend people weight any items and post up any info we don't have yet if you have the chance to get it weighted.

Accuracy is the key. Rough estimates by hand is usually over estimate. Vance and Erick felt my wheel spacers, they guessed around 20~30lbs, but actually they only weight 12lbs on electronic scale.

I removed 12lbs worth of wheel adaptors/studs/lugs (weighted at postoffice). two 20mm F and two 35mm rear.

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It made world of difference without the adaptors, car is just a lot more nimble, almost like I have power steering at lower speed. Maybe it is because I have ran these spacers for over 1 year and have really gotten used to the heavy steering. Right now the steering feels closer to my S2000, can almost turn with just 1 finger. I have these spacers for sale, but I don't recommend them at all if you can avoid them, unless you have a widebody NSX with powersteering and need them to push out your old wheels to fill out the wide body fenders. For those who are running with thick spacers and no power steering. Try driving again without the spacers, you will see the difference.

At current 2791lbs (my usual driving weight). Really would love to get it to 26xx or even beyond without making too big of sacrifices.

Additional items being considered and will eventually make it are:
PC545 battery -30lbs
Lightweight flywheel -10 lbs
TEIN RE with Procar spring conversion kit -44lbs (Oem suspension is 69lbs)
Some type of lightweight carbon fiber seats -30+lbs?

Unknowns:
Procar bumper beam

Not likely items due to cost or legal/environment/noise issues/personal preference:cool: :
Project U 2 piece oem replacement rotors -12lbs
Cat delete -20lbs
 
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a few days ago I took out one headlight (NA1) to retrieve a socket. Has anyone come up with a headlight delete kit? Those things are so heavy! Somone had recomended leaving the heavy lights in because the car is balanced with the weight and would have negative effects around corners. But I think the newer headlights are lighter and somehow they must have compensated for the weight distrubution. Keep the shell of the lights and install driving lights under the bumper would be a good weight saving mod...
 
Save additional 67.5lbs~90lbs with this combo.

Dry carbon door+ acrylic window. Weight reduction junkie's dream from Route KS Japan:

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door2.jpg
 
Jason, 2600lb's for a car with a full interior is very ambitious, but I think it can be done. It's going to be pretty expensive though......

I just put on my Sorcery exhaust today, which is about 1/2 the weight of the JGTC. Also John was nice enough to sell me his GT rom lightweight crank pulley. It makes a huge difference! Weight savings today: -20 to -25 lb's.

The things you came up with are great. I might even swap out my S-Zero suspension for the lighter Tein setup. Some other suggestions for you:

-Do the battery right away. I have the 545 and the weight savings was apparent right away!

-Get test pipes, the environment can wait. The way I see it you have 50-70 years to enjoy your life. Or if you really really really care ;) you can replace a few light bulbs in your home with compact flourescents. That sgould offest the extra emissions....... As for your car being too loud, with a full interior you should be okay. Your exhaust should be quieter than Vance's.....

-Bumper beam! If your car gets rear ended then you're f'ed anyways.....

-Rip out the sound deadning behind the firewall panels. It saves about 10 pounds and you'll never notice the difference.

-remove the rear tow hooks if you haven't done so already.

-Also you can remove the front tow hook, which is heavy, and replace it with a racing tow hook. But I know that may not be the look you're going for.

The stuff above will drop about 100 pounds without sacrificing the oem look, or comfort. Honestly though, it's going to hard to drop below 2600 without taking out the interior and other luxury items. From seeing first hand how much all that stuff weighs I can tell you it all adds up!

I can almost guarantee i'm under 2600lb's as of today. It took a lot of work to get there though, and I put up with a lot of stuff that other people aren't crazy enough to handle. The only question is how far you want to push it.
 
I can almost guarantee i'm under 2600lb's as of today.
Simo,

Congratulations with the Sorcery exhaust. Happy dieting:biggrin:

Quite frankly you deserve it to be under 2600lbs, no one deserve it more than you do.

I highly recommend you get the car corner weighted. If you like either John or me can meet up there. I can get my S2K weighted as well. Or you, me, John can split and buy a set of race scales, so we can use it anytime and charge people $20 per weight in and do mobile weight ins.:biggrin:

I got the car on the lift today at Autowave. I noticed layers of gunk/dirt on under the car. Those got to weight good 5~10 lbs. I need to wash and detail the bottom of the car soon.

It is expensive going further at this point. At 2791lbs, going further really will cost a pretty penny. I have done the front tow hook already, it is 2~3lbs. My exhaust with test pipe would be too loud for the Garden Grove cops. My dream is 26XXlbs. Even at just 269xlbs, I will be more than happy. Realisticly 2700lbs is more of a reachable goal. AC/Heater/Stereo will have to remain even though I don't use them.

Definite items that I will have:
PC545 battery-23lbs
Tilton Lightweight Flywheel 7.8lbs (OEM 15.5lbs) 7.7lbs of nasty rotation mass reduction.

Maybe:
F1 Spec carbon fiber seats 12lbs each -30~40lbs

No money, just dreaming:
Project U 2 piece front/rear rotors -12lbs (Rotating mass)
NSX-R or NSX-S seats -40lbs
HiFlo Catalytic Converter -12.05lbs
Route KS acrylic driver/passenger window -?
Lexan rear hatch window -12lbs
TEIN RE with Procar spring conversion kit -44lbs (Oem suspension is 69lbs)
Procar Bumper beam Weight is 1.7 kg, replaces the heavyweight steel beam (12 kg) -23.18lbs

=additional 173.98lbs off to bring the weight down to 2617lbs. Almost impossible cost wise.

This is still with AC/Stereos and everything else. There are other parts that can be add to this list as well, for example teh lexan divider window, dry carbon door, CE28N wheels, Titanium brakes, etc.

I can see why Route KS was able to drop the weight to 2200~2300lb on their Zeroforce NSX. The sad part is that it still got spanked by 3500lbs GTR at tight track like Tsukuba.
 
Why was that?? Was the GTR that much more powerful ??
Power shouldn't mean that much at Tsukuba.

I checked again the Route KS Zero Force is 2367lbs/340ps. This car is easily 4~5sec faster per lab than stock NA2-R on this relatively short course. The weight helps a lot and play a big factor on top of other supporting mods/set up.

Almost unthinkable that 3500lb cars are able to do this at Tsukuba even with power. I would not had believe it if I didn't see the videos.

Cars that ran fastest lap time during the race (they all ran on sameday):
Mine GTR 58.95sec 3417lbs/600ps
HKS BNR35 59.892sec 3593lbs/700ps
Re Amemiya RX-7 (3 rotor NA) 59.892sec 2425lbs/400ps
Yashiro Factory Silvia F15 1'00"044 2733lbs/550ps
Route KS Zero Force 1'01"047 2367lbs/340ps

Solo time attack:
Mine GTR 57"996sec
HKS BNR35 59"176sec
Re Amemiya RX-7 59"688sec
Yashiro Factory Silvia 59"869sec
Route KS Zero Force 1'00"263sec
 
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