- Joined
- 19 January 2011
- Messages
- 714
Ive had my kit on the car about 3 years now of heavy track use. Its performed pretty well until I noticed recently when the car was getting an extended 'going though' that the Electronic Control Valve that activates on the sump was leaking pretty heavy into my rear trunk carpet from the center gasket the seperating the two halves of the ECV. After speaking with the people over at Canton who makes the sump I bought a new 'better' electronic control valve to replace the older one thats leaking.
replacement:
Ive never been to hot on the the idea of all the engine oil going through hoses. For one, they are connecting to non-clamped barbed push on fittings and second The lines run directly next to the rear tires and over the spinning axles.
My concern is that my hot R-comps are throwing all sorts of rocks and glass and whatever else i run over up into the wheel well where the exposed plain soft rubber lines are exposed. Ive already re routed and semi protected them after i burnt the outside of one on my axle when the zip tie holders broke. Luckily I checked it when I did or I coulda been rebuilding another motor due to starvation. Now its always in my mind, annoyingly so, after I've heard 2 different stories of the otherwise well conditioned lines just failing out of the blue i need to so something.
Since I have to depressurize and disassemble the system completely to replace the valve I figure theres no better time to do the recommended replacement of the oil lines. There are a few routes I can go down that im looking onto and looking for some input.
1) Replace new hose to the push-on barbed fittings and add the correct Oetiker clamps https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3295 and hose and when doubled up on clamps they are rated rated to 2000psi. I could then add Kevlar hose sleeves around the outside. bonus being this is a cheaper and easier option than replacing everything with stainless and AN fittings
2) Since Stainless/rubberized lines should not be clamped to barbed fittings I would need to replace all the push on barbed fittings with AN stainless compatible connectors. PITA
after some serious mental lifting, diagram sketches and the SOS parts list, i think i've compiled a parts list to upgrade the SOS push on fittings with the proper AN connectors for the stainless sleeved hoses.
If anyone is curious they are listed here off Pegasusautoracing.com
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total is about $210 The down side to stainless & AN lines is the hoses themselves will be about double the weight, and since they span from the oil sandwich adapter too the oil cooler i worry about the stress from sagging on the connections. Stainless lines are a bitch to cut and install and will still need to be replaced every 5 years.
Input?
replacement:
Ive never been to hot on the the idea of all the engine oil going through hoses. For one, they are connecting to non-clamped barbed push on fittings and second The lines run directly next to the rear tires and over the spinning axles.
My concern is that my hot R-comps are throwing all sorts of rocks and glass and whatever else i run over up into the wheel well where the exposed plain soft rubber lines are exposed. Ive already re routed and semi protected them after i burnt the outside of one on my axle when the zip tie holders broke. Luckily I checked it when I did or I coulda been rebuilding another motor due to starvation. Now its always in my mind, annoyingly so, after I've heard 2 different stories of the otherwise well conditioned lines just failing out of the blue i need to so something.
Since I have to depressurize and disassemble the system completely to replace the valve I figure theres no better time to do the recommended replacement of the oil lines. There are a few routes I can go down that im looking onto and looking for some input.
1) Replace new hose to the push-on barbed fittings and add the correct Oetiker clamps https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3295 and hose and when doubled up on clamps they are rated rated to 2000psi. I could then add Kevlar hose sleeves around the outside. bonus being this is a cheaper and easier option than replacing everything with stainless and AN fittings
2) Since Stainless/rubberized lines should not be clamped to barbed fittings I would need to replace all the push on barbed fittings with AN stainless compatible connectors. PITA
after some serious mental lifting, diagram sketches and the SOS parts list, i think i've compiled a parts list to upgrade the SOS push on fittings with the proper AN connectors for the stainless sleeved hoses.
If anyone is curious they are listed here off Pegasusautoracing.com
| 3270-10-FOOT | #10 Size Stainless Steel Braided Racing Hose, price per foot | $7.99 |
<tbody> </tbody> | $47.94 | In Stock | |||
| 3271-10-000 | Straight Alum. #10 Hose End / 10AN | $10.99 |
<tbody> </tbody> | $21.98 | In Stock | |||
| 3271-10-090 | 90' Aluminum #10 Hose End / 10AN | $23.49 |
<tbody> </tbody> | $70.47 | In Stock | |||
| 3271-10-120 | 120' Aluminum #10 Hose End / 10AN | $27.49 |
<tbody> </tbody> | $27.49 | In Stock | |||
| 3281-08-10 | 1/2 NPT - 10AN Male Run Tee, Aluminum | $26.99 |
<tbody> </tbody> | $26.99 | In Stock |
<tbody>
</tbody>
total is about $210 The down side to stainless & AN lines is the hoses themselves will be about double the weight, and since they span from the oil sandwich adapter too the oil cooler i worry about the stress from sagging on the connections. Stainless lines are a bitch to cut and install and will still need to be replaced every 5 years.
Input?
Last edited:
