Warning - New design window regulator failure

Joined
22 June 2004
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2
I have a '94 (80,000 miles) with the new design window regulator "thingy" and the passenger side regulator just failed. I don't recall reading of any other failures yet on the "new" design so I thought I should post a warning. The plastic "thingy" was broken and the metal was distorted even though it was the "new" design that completely surrounds the plastic thingy. I have attached a photo - you can see that how the metal frame is distorted on the left side compared to the right side.

I followed the excellent instructions on this forum for getting into the door panel and doing the repair - but I had to buy a new regulator (ouch$$$$). I also purhased the Dali Racing metal "thingies" which have been designed to work with the new regulator as well as the older '91-'93 type. I replaced the plastic thingy that came with the new regulator. I also replaced the plastic thingy in the drivers side regulator - the plastic had already started to crack and the metal was distorted too, so I think I got to that one just in time.

So please be warned, it is probably a good idea to put the Dali Racing metal thingies in later model regulators as well as the earlier '91 - '93 models.
 

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Desert X said:
So please be warned, it is probably a good idea to put the Dali Racing metal thingies in later model regulators as well as the earlier '91 - '93 models.
Sorry to hear of your misfortune. I have an updated regulator in my drivers' side door and a Dali fixit thingy in the passenger side. I'm just wondering how on earth to break the plastic thing free if it's held securely by the metal frame? On the passenger window, I just pried the plastic piece til it broke.
 
This is not a good news :( My driver side window has been popping and cracking lately...I wonder if it's the early symptom of this or does it just need lubing...?
 
ak said:
This is not a good news :( My driver side window has been popping and cracking lately...I wonder if it's the early symptom of this or does it just need lubing...?

I must've emptied about a tankers worth of every lubricant known to man on every part of the power window mechanism at least 2 times now and I still get the popping sound that you're getting.. if someone knows a true fix.. please pipe in.
 
blknsxnoc said:
I must've emptied about a tankers worth of every lubricant known to man on every part of the power window mechanism at least 2 times now and I still get the popping sound that you're getting.. if someone knows a true fix.. please pipe in.

Is this with the later model regulator? I'm assuming you inspected the thingy while you were at lubing....did it look any way deformed?
 
ak said:
Is this with the later model regulator? I'm assuming you inspected the thingy while you were at lubing....did it look any way deformed?


I have the old school, plasticky, jacked up from birth window thingies.. I did inspect it and didn't see anything wrong with them.. Will this stop the popping and crackling?
 
My drivers side window was jumping and slow. The bolts for the window tracks were loose. I had to just tighten them. I have the upgraded style..Lyle
 
The driver's side in my 98-t does that stutter(sp?) on the way up. I never gave it much thought because no one ever posted failure in the new models. I did have my acura dealer lube it one time. It worked better for approx 3 to 4 weeks but slowly went back to the stutter.
 
CokerRat said:
I'm just wondering how on earth to break the plastic thing free if it's held securely by the metal frame? On the passenger window, I just pried the plastic piece til it broke.

I did have to break the plastic thing on the new regulator to enable me to install the Dali metal thingy. After spending so much $$$ on the new regulator I was a little concerned about doing this - but it worked out just fine. Of course with a new regulator you can work on it on the bench so it's a little easier.
 
blknsxnoc said:
I have the old school, plasticky, jacked up from birth window thingies.. I did inspect it and didn't see anything wrong with them.. Will this stop the popping and crackling?

AFAIK the popping is comming from the plastic bit which connects the glass to the regulator. The glass sorta slides a small amout forward and backwards, been reported that lubing this thing gets rid off it. This not in the faq?

*I looked, it is in the faq*
 
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March said:
How do you lube the windows, anyway? The manual shows where, but do you have to take the tracks out?
For the "popping" I think you lube the white spool-like thing behind the infamous "thingy." As someone said, this is the interface between the regulator and the window bracket. This pic shows me lubing with a small brush, but you end up using your finger. Use the Honda Urea Grease ($5).
 

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so what you guys are saying.... is regardless i fyou have the new regulators or not... its a good idea to buy the new metal inserts right? haha can i have a confirmation on this?

Yes,
Although rare, the plastic insert inside the metal casing (new style) can fail. I am lazy but this is likely a good project to do next time I take out the door panels.
Steve
 
After helping Todd, in Austin, with this problem TOO MUCH lube can be a problem. We removed the window and rails to clean off all of the old dry grease. To do this you have to remove the door panel, plastic sheet weather seal, front and rear sash, outside door handle, window dust and water seal, window regulator and window tracks. It is about a 3 hour job (each door) but when you get done the window goes up and down very nice.

When you get the window tracks and window w/track guides removed you will probably see an excess of grease on them. Clean all of the old grease off of all parts. When you apply grease to these just a light coat with a brush is all that is needed. These aren't wheel bearings and so don't need to be PACKED WITH GREASE. When you reinstall the regulator secure the regulator to the window but leave the bolts that attach the regulator to the door loose. Operate the window up and down then back up. Now tighten the bolts that attach to the door. This way the regulator finds it's own position on the door and the window will not cause the regulator to bind.

Brad
 
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