• Protip: Profile posts are public! Use Conversations to message other members privately. Everyone can see the content of a profile post.

Wearable item - fuel pump

Joined
15 December 2008
Messages
444
I wanted to share my recent experience with others hoping that maybe it will help someone resolve some similar pesky issues. A little background first. Since owning my NSX (OEM all stock 1991), I have been tickled by the very essence of the car. Because it was used, there were a few niggling issues that I have since tackled. One of the issues that I've had which took some time to resolve was that the car took a long time to start (almost 5X as long as any other Honda). What I mean by this is that the crank time was ridiculously long. All my other Hondas/Acuras (I have five in my stable) start quickly and easily. The long crank times were more of nuisance for it made the car feel less than perfect to me and was occassionally a bit embarrassing when taking a guest for a ride.

The second issue was that I had difficulty utilizing 5th gear at speeds below 50MPH. The car just would seem to bog and want to die. I didn't think much about it and figured maybe 5th was rather tall. Though I did find it peculiar for all my other Hondas/Acuras didn't mind their upper gears at such speeds (including my S2000 in 6th). More on this later.

To resolve the matters, I combed through the many posts here on NSXPrime and they have been invaluable. In particular, what I enjoyed the most were commentary and experiences from others for those seemed to help me resolve the issue by following their thought process and pattern. Consequently, I wanted to share my experience with others.

-One of the first things I did was address the battery. It was indeed in poor condition. I replaced it and cleaned the terminals. This resulted in *some* improvement, but didn't resolve the matter.

-Then I went on to replace the main relay. No difference what so ever. I realize that the main relay serves other purposes, but had it replaced because I was concerned that the contacts might have been less than optimal.

-I subsequently replaced the ignition switch. Wow, this really made a lot of stuff work better. Turns out that my switch was spliced for an after market alarm cutoff. Although start up seemed a bit more brisk, it was still woefully slow and long.

-Replaced the negative battery strap. Now this may not seem intuitive (at least to me). But when I pulled the negative strap off the car, the part of the cable that mounted to the body was rusted. I discarded the old cable, cleaned up the mounting area. Things were better. Lights didn't dim as much during cranking.

-Cleaned the throttle body and used fuel injector cleaner to no avail.

-I then thought maybe the other grounding points on the car in the engine bay might not be quite up to snuff (thought I read something about electrical conductivity with aluminum here on Prime). I thoroughly cleaned all the points. Nothing. No improvement.

-Then I ran across some posts about guys needing to replace their starters. I had never considered replacing the starter for I've never had to replace a starter on any of my Hondas (even with >100K miles) so I didn't think it was necessary. For reference my NSX has just over 100K miles. The two symptoms that pointed me to this were:
- that the overall crank speed was rather slow even though the cabling to the engine bay was very clean & up to snuff.
- someone had suggested possibly including a battery jumper and seeing if it did any better. This seemed a bit strange, but I tried it and it did indeed help startup. The thought, and I don't know how valid it is, is that due to worn components within the starter, it needed some extra current to crank.
At this point, I ordered a rebuilt OEM starter. Strangely what was sent to me seemed to be old, new stock component. I've seen rebuilt starters before and this certainly didn't look like one. It looked new. Regardless, I installed the starter. Viola! The crank speed was WAY better. I disassembled the original starter (though I failed to take photos) and it was indeed worn. The contacts appeared worn down. So in short, my starter was truly worn out. Unfortunately, the crank time was still relatively long, but the motor cranked smoother and faster.

-Then a few weeks ago I ran across this post:
http://nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?t=150837
This was singularly the most important post. What struck me as interesting in his post was how he felt that the car seemed to come alive after a fuel pump change. Originally, I did not consider this component for I had read of others stating that the OEM pumps were solid and never fail. After reading the service manual, it stated that the in-tank fuel pump has a valve that helps to hold fuel pressure so that start-ups are easier. So I attempted a quick test. I turned the ignition on and let the fuel pump prime, turned it off, then on again to prime the pump again. I did this seven times and finally I went all the way and cranked the car. Bam! It started like all my other Hondas. I thought sweetness!! The pump must be the problem. I had the fuel pump, fuel filter (which was only three years old) and all fuel lines replaced (high pressure and fuel return lines).
Immediately, after the replacement, the car was a different animal. Start-ups are just like any other Honda. Now I will admit the first startup after it has been sitting for a few weeks is a smig long though much better than before, and all subsequent starts are quick.

Additionally, the bogging in 5th gear at speeds =<50MPH...gone! I guess the car wasn't getting enough fuel. So it seems that the fuel pump was a culprit all along. I realize that some may ask about what my fuel pressure was before the replacement. I'm afraid, I didn't test that.

What is the moral of this post? Even though the fuel pump might not completely fail, its performance can degrade over time. I have read that the fuel formulations have changed over the years and this may add to the performance degradation of the pump. I will note that I have intentionally avoided ethanol containing fuels, but have in a pinch during long trips had to purchase fuel that had 10% ethanol.

Like many others have stated repeated, our cars our quite reliable and long lasting (going 250K+ without rebuilds) when taken care of appropriately. One simply needs to be cognizant of the the other smaller components that can fail or wear out over time.
 
Sweet! Congrats on finding the problem! Great write-up.

There are an increasing amount of people making similar statements about their fuel pumps apparently being worn. I have yet to install my Walbro and see. I remember reading someone stating that the fuel pump should be replaced when doing the 90k service, in order to avoid these and other fuel supply related problems.

Did you go with OEM or aftermarket?
 
Since the entire car is OEM, I've kept everything OEM. Also, the original pump seemed to last quite a while so I stuck with it.
 
WOW. I have noticed the same thing on my 2004 it takes longer to start than my 1992. not by much but I notice it. I have a spare starter and will probably install it after reading this thread. thanks for the info.

if you ever have an issue just read thru some of prime's threads and you will def find your answer.

Prime is the f-ing bomb.
 
My .02 on this issue. We started getting ethanol {10%} in our gasoline last year. While that only seems like very little, it ruined my carberator on my 3 year old John Deere mower with only 40 running hours. Having spoken with John Deere dealer where I purchased it they informed me they've had many carb. issues since the ethanol was introduced. This got me thinking about my cars. My wifes car is new so thats really not an issue but for a 20 year old fuel pump in any car this could be bad. The pump impeller in fuel pumps are rubber. Ethanol is hard on rubber especially 20 year old rubber. I'm not sure what the poor E85 guys are doing.:confused:
 
How difficult is it to replace the fuel pump? Do other parts need to be disassembled in order to change it? Is it a DYI project or something more complicated?
 
For $25 you can get a fuel pressure guage w/banjo on eBay that screws right on top of your fuel filter. This guage can tell you how long your pump holds pressure after you shut the engine off and of course how much pressure the pump puts out. It's an easy DIY and well worth the $$$. A whole lot easier than replacing the pump if you don't have to.
All gas in Missouri has 10% ethanol.
Thanks for the write-up.
 
Last edited:
Davidf- it was your post that I had referenced that was the nidus for me changing the fuel pump & lines. I personally thank you for sharing your experience. You're description of the change you experienced after the pump swap was key. I believe your assumption regarding the changes in fuel composition has validity.

kriderrx- I believe it can be a DIY job, but I actually paid the dealership to do the job. The rationale for the dealership to do the work was that I had a NSX Tech do the work and since I hadn't done this job before I decided it was in the best interest of the car (and my sanity) to have someone more competent than me do the work.

The pump is actually located within the fuel tank so the whole tank has to be dropped to get at the pump. While the whole tank was down I had all the fuel lines replaced. The fuel lines, particularly the high pressure lines, are mind numbingly expensive (mr_goat listed the prices in another post). I went ahead and splurged cause I didn't want to mess with lines for a while. Also, as some folks had mentioned, the ethanol within the fuel in many communities could wreak havoc on the inner lining of the hoses in the older cars. So I didn't want any headaches recurring anytime soon.

pgilliam1- I thought of going that route, but after doing the research and the, albeit, non-scientific test with the repeated pump priming, I decided that I would simply have the whole system updated. Admittedly, I was a bit nervous that all that work would yield no discernable results. Fortunately, it worked!
 
thanks for writing this up, i think a lot of people will benefit from your post and save the headache.
 
My .02 on this issue. We started getting ethanol {10%} in our gasoline last year. While that only seems like very little, it ruined my carberator on my 3 year old John Deere mower with only 40 running hours. Having spoken with John Deere dealer where I purchased it they informed me they've had many carb. issues since the ethanol was introduced. This got me thinking about my cars. My wifes car is new so thats really not an issue but for a 20 year old fuel pump in any car this could be bad. The pump impeller in fuel pumps are rubber. Ethanol is hard on rubber especially 20 year old rubber. I'm not sure what the poor E85 guys are doing.:confused:

Ethanol will pull moisture from the air. In cars with relatively sealed tanks (most OEMs) and a constant use refueling, it doesn't spend enough time and exposure to cycled air is minimal. In a small engine application, where fuel stays in the gas tank for longer periods of time and the cap is removed several times to check level (and thus refilling the tank with fresh air) the fuel has more time and more moisture available to absorb. The moisture cause components to rust and the ethanol lacks the lubricants that gasoline contains.

Most cars built after 2002 had ethanol fuels in mind when the fuel system was designed. There are ethanol resistant/compatible components available, but often proper maintenance and replacement help curb any failures.

Ethanol "cleans up" the deposits left behind by gasoline. That's why many of the older cars that are switched to E85 after spending most of their service run using gasoline have to replace fuel filters often for the first few tanks. Gasoline also "cleans up" deposits left behind by ethanol, so the guys that do run E85 will run a tank of gas through every few months to keep the system clean.

For the fuel pumps, many have been turning to modern pumps, like our DW301, that are designed with ethanol use in mind.
 
Back
Top