I've searched here in the past on the same question. Pretty much everyone recommends leaving ABS active or fixing/replacing it with a working unit. That makes sense because it is a safety feature, and in most cases enhances the performance of a car depending on the driver.
BUT, I've removed mine on my daily-driven NSX. It doesn't bother me because I've driven a lot of other vehicles without ABS and feel comfortable doing so. I'm into 60's muscle cars and mine don't have ABS (obviously). If I get in an accident driving those due to braking, it will be a MUCH MORE painful experience than if I total my NSX :frown:
If you do delete your ABS, the DALI kit is simple, cheap, and works great for an already balanced braking system.
Here's what I did, since this information doesn't seem to exist on Prime:
As mentioned, Dali has them here for about $75:
http://www.daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog/index_browse_part.cfm?focus=2059
Make sure you read the disclaimers. The kit includes two braided SS hoses that each attach to one of the pistons on the master brake cylinder. At the end of each SS hose is a distribution block that splits each piston output to a front/rear brake combo (the ABS does that for us).
You'll need a can of brake fluid, and brake fitting wrenches (10mm) so you don't strip them with an open wrench. Some of mine were on tight, but when putting them back together, don't overtighten.
The ABS is at high pressure, and should be relieved before you work on it. Honda sells a tool to do this ($130), but I just pulled the ABS motor relay from underhood and then exercised the system until the solenoids would no longer pulse on a gravel road. At this point, your ABS light will come on since the motor can't repressurize it. Then, I just took my time removing it (and you have to move the cruise control motor out of the way). It's easiest to have the car on jackstands to access all the ABS bolts/connectors when you do this (you'll have to bleed the brakes later anyway). The ABS pump, accumulator, modulator, solenoids and reservoir weighs about 22 pounds. The master cylinder will keep dripping slowly, so keep it full because you don't want to reprime it. After removing the hoses from the master cylinder, I temporarily put on the new threaded lines and held them high so it couldn't drain. This will give you plenty of time to decide where/how you want to place everything.
You'll need to rebend the front brake lines so you can thread them into the distribution blocks, and you'll have to buy more short tubing (like 8" long) to thread from the blocks into the rear brake line connections. The 3/16" poly coated tubing is easy to bend by hand (you don't need a bender) and hard to kink. Eventually, I'll replace the old front hard lines with new stuff since it's hard to straighten the old stuff perfectly. That's when I'll upgrade brakes.... Inspect/clean the old front flared tubing ends and connect everything up. I sucked out 90% of the old reservoir fluid and put in new stuff (but you'll bleed this out later anyways). Don't use DOT5, I used Valvoline Synthetic DOT3/4 which is cheap, easy to find at local stores, yet works well.
That's it. Bleed the brakes REALLY well. Go for a cautious test drive, come back, and bleed again. I had a lot of air initially after the first bleed, and tapping each of the calipers the second time may have helped because I got some more air out the second time and the pedal feels like before (very firm).
It took me a good 1.5 days, because I wasn't working on this full time (have two little kids), and I also removed the cruise control, TCS, wheel speed sensors, and other ABS/cruise control computers under the dash. So, anyone can do this on a weekend!
Here's a few pictures courtesy of Dali's site (hey, that's my car :tongue
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