fwiw,I did have inner wheel-well rubbing on 2/3 lock with 225/45/16 p-zerro-c with HR springs.Also as per the other subtopic,which is dealing with rolling diameter, if you look at the 225/50/16 oem so2 for the s2000 it has a tread-width equal to most 245 tires of other brands,but the oem front 205/55/16 is equal to other brand 205 tires so there is variation in actual width vs labeled width.
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What Brand Of Tire Would YOU Run?
- Thread starter dvkim
- Start date
To be a little more anal about tire diameter, doesn't the rim width have an effect on diameter too? If you take that 225/45/16 and put it on a 8.5" width rim, won't the diameter be smaller than if it was on a 7"width rim?
Skinnier doesn't mean that the outer diameter is different. But aside from that, you miss my point. If a Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 225/50-15 front tire has an outer diameter that is smaller than other tires that size, then you can pretty much bet that the rear Pilot Sport Cup tire will be smaller, too. This will not change the front to rear ratio of the outer diameters, and thus will not affect the operation of the TCS.
Not much, and not enough to change the results of the TCS calculation.
One other factor to bear in mind is a "race tire vs street tire" comparison on width. It is often true that a race tire in the same sizing will be wider than a street tire even in a given brand. This can be seen with Yokohama, Kuhmo, and Michelin. A hoosier race tire will also cloud your comparison factors even further becuase they run SO wide. A 225 width hoosier road race tire (r3s03) will be as wide as most people's 245's in a street tire. Makes it fun doesn't it?
Aaron
Aaron
Sure, let's take a closer look.
If you use the raw numbers from these sizes on a "generic" tire calculator, you would get:
OD of 225/50-16 = 24.85827 inches
OD of 205/55-16 = 24.87795 inches (+0.08 percent)
Now, let's compare these with the specs from Bridgestone's website for this particular tire S-02:
OD of 225/50-16 = 25.0 inches
OD of 205/55-16 = 24.8 inches (-0.8 percent)
So, just as I noted previously, even for this example in which one size is off by a different amount than the other, the ratio you get using the numbers for the specific tire is within 1 percent of the ratio you get using a generic tire calculator.
Originally posted by AaronR:
One other factor to bear in mind is a "race tire vs street tire" comparison on width. It is often true that a race tire in the same sizing will be wider than a street tire even in a given brand. This can be seen with Yokohama, Kuhmo, and Michelin. A hoosier race tire will also cloud your comparison factors even further becuase they run SO wide. A 225 width hoosier road race tire (r3s03) will be as wide as most people's 245's in a street tire. Makes it fun doesn't it?
Aaron
Again, this would be true in front AND in rear, leaving the ratio unchanged by any significant degree.
Hey, don't you two guys work?
I really think that TCS looks at so many things, that tire slip is not the main one.
I was never able to "hard and fast" upshift from 1st to 2nd without the car lugging, and no TCS light ever came on. But now that I have unplugged the computer, the car no longer gets sluggish, and the tires never chirp. Either the computer "thinks" the tires are going to spin due to the forces being brought to bear, or the tires do slip infinitely small but enough to trigger the sensors.
Maybe Woodwork can chime in on this one?
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Gary Yates
1995 Red/Tan
Aaron, I agree on the So3's. I'm in Fl. and rain is one of the reasons I bought these. I have been vary impressed with 8k miles on them at this time. Good tire! I will buy again!! p.s. I have 1700 miles on BBSC and they have done a wonderful job with dry traction too. I run the oem sizes except the front. I will increase to the 255 on the rear next purchase.
No.
Aaron, this discussion has been very informative so far but I have two very specific questions for you.
1. Given taht two people have identified some rubbing with 225/45/16, are you assuring the Forum that this is not an issue unless the car is lowered more than say a specific distance, would that be more than 1.25" ....... perhaps the most common measuremnt given Eibach springs' popularity?
2. And I am echoing both Ken's (Sax and Crowell - aka Chopsjazz) comments as I too have been driving on oem yokos for 20,000 miles: have you ot Tire Rack compared the performance of the S03 against the yoko in terms of handling at the limit, steering responsiveness, noise on the FWY? I am not concerned about treadwear and I am assuming the S03 is better in the rain.
Cheers
1. Given taht two people have identified some rubbing with 225/45/16, are you assuring the Forum that this is not an issue unless the car is lowered more than say a specific distance, would that be more than 1.25" ....... perhaps the most common measuremnt given Eibach springs' popularity?
2. And I am echoing both Ken's (Sax and Crowell - aka Chopsjazz) comments as I too have been driving on oem yokos for 20,000 miles: have you ot Tire Rack compared the performance of the S03 against the yoko in terms of handling at the limit, steering responsiveness, noise on the FWY? I am not concerned about treadwear and I am assuming the S03 is better in the rain.
Cheers
Hrant,
I do not have experience with the Yoko's, but the Bridgestone OEM's definately have more initial bite and turn in, which to me make them more "fun". I also do not think they are bad in the rain, unless the inside edges are worn, in which case any tire would be bad in the rain. I do think the SO3's make up for the lack of last degree of feel in mileage. They are also noisier to my ears than the RE010's. IOW, if price (or dollars period) were not an issue, then I would stick with the OEM's. Hope this helps a little.
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Gary Yates
1995 Red/Tan
Hey guys, uh, thanks for answering my question. I was looking for an alternative to the OEM sizing. It seems like you get held over a barrel price wise with the OEM tires. The money isn't a big deal, however I thought that there may be a tire that offers better perfomance/Longevity/Value,(more current technology) in an alternate size.
Funny some of you mentioned TCS kicking in under heavy acceleration. My TCS some times kicks in maxing out in first, and speed shifting into second. What a sick sensation to feel your car bog.
I think the reason you don't feel your tires break loose is because the TCS senses loss of traction, and stops it before they spin. Realistically the most you would get is a chirp going into second any way. So instead of a chirp you get BOOOOG.
Funny some of you mentioned TCS kicking in under heavy acceleration. My TCS some times kicks in maxing out in first, and speed shifting into second. What a sick sensation to feel your car bog.
I think the reason you don't feel your tires break loose is because the TCS senses loss of traction, and stops it before they spin. Realistically the most you would get is a chirp going into second any way. So instead of a chirp you get BOOOOG.
Just received a new set of Pilot Sports for my stock 97 rims for $860.00 to my door.
The OEM tires are not all that expensive, no more so than many other high-performance tires. For example, you can get a set for less than those Pilot Sports. Current Tire Rack prices for the '97+ sizes are $736 a set for the RE010, $842 for the Pilot Sport, plus shipping. Even less for the '91-96 sizes. Not bad at all. (Try pricing Corvette or Viper tires some time.
[This message has been edited by nsxtasy (edited 03 August 2002).]
Originally posted by nsxtasy:
(Try pricing Corvette or Viper tires some time.)
Yea, I had a 99 Vette. Runflats cost more(~400/tire on the rear), but they lasted 30k miles. I'm only getting 5k miles on the NSX, at 225/tire. Which do you think is cheaper?
Sticking with Yoko OEM's, I just ordered another set of rears. I'm getting 5k on the rears, 7k on the fronts. When will I need all 4? We all knew Algebra wasn't a waist
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01' NSX-T Silverstone
02' Chevy Avalanche 1500
00' Suzuki Hayabusa GSX1300
02' Honda VTX-1800
02' Aprilia Falco SL1000
Originally posted by JohnC:
I'm getting 5k on the rears, 7k on the fronts. When will I need all 4? We all knew Algebra wasn't a waist
But spelling was.
If you wait and only replace each pair exactly when they need it, and keep that rate of wear, at 35K you will have gone through exactly seven sets of rears and five sets of fronts.
However, when you're at 14K and you're replacing your second set of fronts with your third, you may as well go ahead and replace your rears, too, since they'll only be 1K short of replacement.
I'm surprised you don't get more than 7K on a set of front tires, though. I was getting at least 10K on each set of front Yokos even when I was doing lots of track events on them.
[This message has been edited by nsxtasy (edited 03 August 2002).]
I guess its going to be the Yoko's.....
I am buying tires talked to Basch directly and he runs Toyo Proxes T1's on his own car. You could spend the extra money but is it really worth it? They go for around 720 set of four
Damn, I hate it when I do thatOriginally posted by nsxtasy:
But spelling was.
I had the alignment checked when I had the front's replaced. We'll see how long the second set lasts.(only 10k on the car right now).
Your calcs do not include sales tax.
Most mail-order vendors do not charge sales tax when shipping out of state.
