Does anyone have any suggestions on what to do about seats that are slightly worn, besides getting new ones at $4500 a piece?
-
Protip: Profile posts are public! Use Conversations to message other members privately. Everyone can see the content of a profile post.
worn seats
- Thread starter hondapower
- Start date
i died my black seats on the bolsters and it looked perfect,like new.go to the FAQ section and it will list the company that sells the leather die,i also used there leather softener and it worked well.
I have had my bolsters redone on my ivory seats, the offending seat panel was removed and a new perfect color match was replaced. I "DOUBT" that anyone could pick out the panel.
We did have to order in several samples to match the ivory seats, it seems Honda does not use the ivory on any other car besides the NSX, we ordered every Honda ivory or bone color and none matched. If I am not mistaken the best match was actually from a Cadallac interior color.
Anyway, the repair was around $100.00 for each panel that needed replacement. If you have Ivory I know the shop still has material and can send it to a shop closer to you, or you could take some pictures and get an estimate from the guy up here by me. I can certaily recomend his services.
Dave
[This message has been edited by DDozier (edited 18 April 2002).]
We did have to order in several samples to match the ivory seats, it seems Honda does not use the ivory on any other car besides the NSX, we ordered every Honda ivory or bone color and none matched. If I am not mistaken the best match was actually from a Cadallac interior color.
Anyway, the repair was around $100.00 for each panel that needed replacement. If you have Ivory I know the shop still has material and can send it to a shop closer to you, or you could take some pictures and get an estimate from the guy up here by me. I can certaily recomend his services.
Dave
[This message has been edited by DDozier (edited 18 April 2002).]
I doubt that's the correct spelling.
------------------
'91 Black/Black
I must be blind. I can't find it in the FAQ.
Forums Nazi!!!!! I need you.
buy used ones in good condition?
------------------
the art of chasing down my friend's white 3000gt at com. ave
NSXCA # 1690 "Sabrina"
------------------
the art of chasing down my friend's white 3000gt at com. ave
NSXCA # 1690 "Sabrina"
Used ones in GOOD condition. Thats funny.
------------------
ALL NSX
92 RED/BLACK 5-SPEED
Joel, I'm no Forums Nazi but randall must have meant Color-Plus:
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Detailing/InteriorLeather.htm
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Detailing/InteriorLeather.htm
- Joined
- 14 April 2002
- Messages
- 2,273
This is posted from my favorite site for detailing products and advice at great prices. I have known Larry for years and neg. a 10% NSXCA discout for all of us about 3 years ago. Unbelievable guy who can answer any question and beats any price at http://www.carcarespecialties.com/
Here is Larry's info:
If your leather or vinyl has scuffmarks, scratches or areas that the surface color has been removed, you may refinish it yourself. Most German seats are famous for scuffing on the left bolster of the driver's seat. This is usually caused by your belt loops as you get in and out of the seat. The key is another Surflex product. The Surflex Colorant & Finish for Flexible Surfaces may be matched to the exact color required. Any interior leather or vinyl surface may be refinished. It is not recommended to spot finish any area. If your seat bolsters have belt loop scuff marks, you should refinish the entire front of the seat. I usually do from welting to welting. This provides a visual break that does not make the non-refinished areas appear quite as shabby. But then why not do the whole seat, dash, or door panel? Start by conditioning the leather to insure that the leather is fully hydrated with oils. Once the leather is fully conditioned or softened, if needed, then clean the area(s) to be refinished with a suitable Organic Solvent. I prefer P21S Total Auto Wash or Wurth Citrus Degreaser. Prior to usage, test all solvents on an area that does not show. I use the excess on the underside of the seat to test the colorfastness of the finish. Spray the solvent on a soft lint free cloth, and then wipe down the surface(s). Repeat after a few minutes. Rinse several times with a sponge or cloth and a couple of buckets of clear water and allow to dry thoroughly (at least 24 hours). The manufacturer of Surflex says to strip the old finish off using lacquer thinner, commercial paint remover or C-P Stripper. I don't, because most interiors are not in that bad a shape and I have never found it necessary (They also recommend lightly sanding the area prior to usage, I don't do that either - no guts). Mix the Surflex completely and apply with brush, spray it on or use it like a wood stain. I prefer to use a small piece of lint free cloth and work the Surflex into the leather or vinyl just as if I were staining wood. Once the desired color of finish is achieved, allow to dry undisturbed for at least 24 hours. I allow the surface to "harden off" for about 6 weeks before applying any conditioners to leather or vinyl protectants to vinyl parts. I have not had a lot of luck refinishing dark leather to a significantly lighter color. The old color tends to show through in small "cracks" and the whole panel seems to be "muddy". Maybe if you strip off all the old finish, it would look better. Someday, I will get an old seat and give it a try.
The Surflex Black Colorant works great on black bumpers, black spoilers or black rubber/vinyl trim that has been severely scratched or badly scuffed and is beyond the help of Black Again. Clean the entire part thoroughly with P21S Total Auto Wash or Wurth Citrus Degreaser, rinse and dry thoroughly. Mask off the paint and then stain the area with the Colorant and allow to dry. It will look like new. After about 3 weeks hardening off, coat with a protective coating of Black Again or One Grand Exterior Rubber.
Small cuts, cracks or holes in leather may be partially repaired using another Surflex product called Flex-Fill. This is a semi-flexible cosmetic filling material. You use it like a Spackle compound. It will take the Surflex colorant similar to leather or vinyl. I have been able to repair several damaged areas and hide them so they are not visible to the casual observer. Will it make a three-inch crack in your dash look like new? No, but it may help hide it so that it isn't quite so obvious. I have found that forcing Flex-Fill under the repaired area and forming an inverted T patch works best. Once the patch is dry, sand lightly to blend in with the leather or vinyl. Clean the area thoroughly and refinish with the Surflex Colorant. This is a learned skill, so you should practice on a test piece of leather or vinyl. Perfect your techniques before you tackle your expensive interior.
Here is Larry's info:
If your leather or vinyl has scuffmarks, scratches or areas that the surface color has been removed, you may refinish it yourself. Most German seats are famous for scuffing on the left bolster of the driver's seat. This is usually caused by your belt loops as you get in and out of the seat. The key is another Surflex product. The Surflex Colorant & Finish for Flexible Surfaces may be matched to the exact color required. Any interior leather or vinyl surface may be refinished. It is not recommended to spot finish any area. If your seat bolsters have belt loop scuff marks, you should refinish the entire front of the seat. I usually do from welting to welting. This provides a visual break that does not make the non-refinished areas appear quite as shabby. But then why not do the whole seat, dash, or door panel? Start by conditioning the leather to insure that the leather is fully hydrated with oils. Once the leather is fully conditioned or softened, if needed, then clean the area(s) to be refinished with a suitable Organic Solvent. I prefer P21S Total Auto Wash or Wurth Citrus Degreaser. Prior to usage, test all solvents on an area that does not show. I use the excess on the underside of the seat to test the colorfastness of the finish. Spray the solvent on a soft lint free cloth, and then wipe down the surface(s). Repeat after a few minutes. Rinse several times with a sponge or cloth and a couple of buckets of clear water and allow to dry thoroughly (at least 24 hours). The manufacturer of Surflex says to strip the old finish off using lacquer thinner, commercial paint remover or C-P Stripper. I don't, because most interiors are not in that bad a shape and I have never found it necessary (They also recommend lightly sanding the area prior to usage, I don't do that either - no guts). Mix the Surflex completely and apply with brush, spray it on or use it like a wood stain. I prefer to use a small piece of lint free cloth and work the Surflex into the leather or vinyl just as if I were staining wood. Once the desired color of finish is achieved, allow to dry undisturbed for at least 24 hours. I allow the surface to "harden off" for about 6 weeks before applying any conditioners to leather or vinyl protectants to vinyl parts. I have not had a lot of luck refinishing dark leather to a significantly lighter color. The old color tends to show through in small "cracks" and the whole panel seems to be "muddy". Maybe if you strip off all the old finish, it would look better. Someday, I will get an old seat and give it a try.
The Surflex Black Colorant works great on black bumpers, black spoilers or black rubber/vinyl trim that has been severely scratched or badly scuffed and is beyond the help of Black Again. Clean the entire part thoroughly with P21S Total Auto Wash or Wurth Citrus Degreaser, rinse and dry thoroughly. Mask off the paint and then stain the area with the Colorant and allow to dry. It will look like new. After about 3 weeks hardening off, coat with a protective coating of Black Again or One Grand Exterior Rubber.
Small cuts, cracks or holes in leather may be partially repaired using another Surflex product called Flex-Fill. This is a semi-flexible cosmetic filling material. You use it like a Spackle compound. It will take the Surflex colorant similar to leather or vinyl. I have been able to repair several damaged areas and hide them so they are not visible to the casual observer. Will it make a three-inch crack in your dash look like new? No, but it may help hide it so that it isn't quite so obvious. I have found that forcing Flex-Fill under the repaired area and forming an inverted T patch works best. Once the patch is dry, sand lightly to blend in with the leather or vinyl. Clean the area thoroughly and refinish with the Surflex Colorant. This is a learned skill, so you should practice on a test piece of leather or vinyl. Perfect your techniques before you tackle your expensive interior.
NSX/MR2
Suspended
Are these products available in a regular automotive store like Pep Boy and such? If they are, that would be great.
I think the most effective alternatives are:
1. If you've got black seats, simply use Kiwi leather shoe DYE, make sure it's not the edge dress or polish, etc. The dye is as good as any other leather dye and is perfect for this application since it has a foam applicator tip making it so easy to do a nice even spread. Make sure your seats have been cleaned w/ a premium leather cleaner first, like Lexol. After you let the dye dry for several hours or overnight, go back & wipe your seats down w/ a conditioner (Lexol) to remove any excess & to give the seats a overall even gloss. This worked perfectly fine for my slightly worn NSX seats. If your seats are ivory, you're SOL, see next suggestion:
2. You could buy someone seats . There are about 3 sets for sale right now including ivory & tan usually for less than $800 for the pair. I've also taken this route when an NSX owner swapped his mint seats for Sparco seats & sold me his oem seats for $900. I in turn sold my old seats for $800.
3. Get Sparco's or Recaro's and have a racy look while saving hundreds over oem.
4. Go to reupholster shop & just switch out the worn panels.
1. If you've got black seats, simply use Kiwi leather shoe DYE, make sure it's not the edge dress or polish, etc. The dye is as good as any other leather dye and is perfect for this application since it has a foam applicator tip making it so easy to do a nice even spread. Make sure your seats have been cleaned w/ a premium leather cleaner first, like Lexol. After you let the dye dry for several hours or overnight, go back & wipe your seats down w/ a conditioner (Lexol) to remove any excess & to give the seats a overall even gloss. This worked perfectly fine for my slightly worn NSX seats. If your seats are ivory, you're SOL, see next suggestion:
2. You could buy someone seats . There are about 3 sets for sale right now including ivory & tan usually for less than $800 for the pair. I've also taken this route when an NSX owner swapped his mint seats for Sparco seats & sold me his oem seats for $900. I in turn sold my old seats for $800.
3. Get Sparco's or Recaro's and have a racy look while saving hundreds over oem.
4. Go to reupholster shop & just switch out the worn panels.
Or www.drvinyl.com my drivers seat bolster turned out great they do it right at your house $75 for mine.
Steven 91 Blk/Ivory
Steven 91 Blk/Ivory
Does Dr Vinyl fix the rip seem in the bolster? Can you explain in detail of what they did top your bolster & show pics? you can email me at [email protected]
thanks,
------------------
Biaggi
92 Red NSX #483
94 CBR900RR
thanks,
------------------
Biaggi
92 Red NSX #483
94 CBR900RR
It works for me.
Check out the DIY...
http://www.scienceofspeed.com/sos_resource
-- Chris
------------------
Revolutionize your NSX with ScienceofSpeed
www.ScienceofSpeed.com | [email protected] | 877-863-4520
http://www.scienceofspeed.com/sos_resource
-- Chris
------------------
Revolutionize your NSX with ScienceofSpeed
www.ScienceofSpeed.com | [email protected] | 877-863-4520
Thank you guys for all the help.
