wrinkles on interior plastic p;anels

[stevenlee]

Some of my interior plastic parts (i.e. center console and clock trim) are showing a wrinkled surface. Is this painted or is it a plastic film that's wrinkling? Is there any fix for smoothing out the wrinkles?

 

[jlindy]

I second this. I am curious to see what can be done and what people have done to fix this. My car previously had a carbon fiber package on the interior panels, but was taken off.

 

[D'Ecosse]

There is a metal film over the plastic and that is what de-laminates causing the wrinkles.
There was a thread recently on re-finishing the components with this problem.

 

[NSX2398]

Here's one of the more complete discussions:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=21753

 

[keoni90]

carbon fiber

I have the same problem and decided to buy the carbon fiber kit from SOS, I think it looks pretty good.

 

[RoNSX]

Don't Want to Paint

I also share this problem, and have researched the solutions. For me, I don't want to paint, I like the "metalic" finish, plus it won't scratch like paint. Carbon fiber is a solution, though I don't think it will look good with the tan interior.

Has anyone priced replacement pieces from Acura? I assume it would be $300 to $500.

Because the console/door pieces are wrapped in this "metalic foil," can the "foil" be fixed? Possibly using heat or chemicals to peal back wrinkled areas and then using adhesive, reset those areas?

Has anyone tried this?

Also, if anyone has tried a different solution including painting and will be at NSXPO, I would like to see how it came out. Let me know and we'll hook up.

 

[D'Ecosse]

Re: Don't Want to Paint

Has anyone priced replacement pieces from Acura? I assume it would be $300 to $500.

List is $565, so possibly in the neighborhood of $400 from somewhere like Niello or Goodson

Because the console/door pieces are wrapped in this "metalic foil," can the "foil" be fixed? Possibly using heat or chemicals to peal back wrinkled areas and then using adhesive, reset those areas?

This will never work.

Don't underestimate paint - if it's done well, it can look extremely good.

 

[jlindy]

Does anybody have some pictures of the finished painted product, what paint you used, and some further details? I am still confused as to how to get the panels off. I would prefer to sand and paint but think it would be difficult to get the all the film off by sanding or peeling and how to handle the ash try door.

 

[NSX2398]

Re: Don't Want to Paint

I like the "metalic" finish, plus it won't scratch like paint.

Actually, the OEM finish does scratch in spite of being metallic. Mine had several fairly deep scratches near the shifter when I got it. But I suspect that the OEM finish is more scratch resistant than the paint.

Because the console/door pieces are wrapped in this "metalic foil," can the "foil" be fixed? Possibly using heat or chemicals to peal back wrinkled areas and then using adhesive, reset those areas? Has anyone tried this?

This was discussed in the link in my previous post

Does anybody have some pictures of the finished painted product, what paint you used, and some further details? I am still confused as to how to get the panels off.

Did you check the FAQ .. I think I got instructions from there. Also from Science of Speed website but I don't have the links

I would prefer to sand and paint but think it would be difficult to get the all the film off by sanding or peeling and how to handle the ash try door.

This was also discussed in the link in my previous post. I just got a digital camera so if I can figure out how to post pictures, I'll try to do some this weekend

 

[D'Ecosse]

Does anybody have some pictures of the finished painted product, what paint you used, and some further details?

See my console here -
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19586&perpage=20&pagenumber=2
This is an SOS console (another alternative, cheaper than the OEM but the principles for finishing are the same). This was simply some Metallic Black aerosol spray paint from Home depot - the "secret" is in the surface preparation & then colour-sanding with 1000 grit after spraying to get a perfectly smooth finish.
If you have any doubts about it, I would suggest you remove the panels & take them to a body shop who can do the whole process for you.

I am still confused as to how to get the panels off. I would prefer to sand and paint but think it would be difficult to get the all the film off by sanding or peeling and how to handle the ash try door.

http://www.scienceofspeed.com/sos_resource/DIYs/diy_01_stereoknob/default.asp - follow steps 1-6 on how to remove the console.

For the door panels, consult the guide in the manual http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Reference/1991_svcman/1991servman.pdf starting at page 832

Try not removing all the film but just the area that is lifted & feather the edge around it with progressively finer paper; if necessary use some fine surface finishing filler if the low spot or edge is noticable after you prime. For the ashtray, if there is no problem with the surface finish, just paint it - the cover comes off (you need to remove the entire ash tray first - it will come out with the console assembly but you can then remove it.)

 

[jlindy]

Now many of you know that I am fairly impaired when it comes to do it yourself work, but I have to say that this project is coming along great. I have everything out, sanded, and painted and I think it looks great.

I have one more question though as I have heard different opinions on how it should be done. After the black paint is dry, do you have to seal it with a lacquer to polish or is there a better way. I have heard that some simply leave the color on and that is it.

 

[D'Ecosse]

As I suggested J, I just finished by colour-sanding with 1000 grit but then the final piece de resistance - polished with Zaino!! - it seems to be holding up really good & feels as smooth as glass.
I tried a clear lacquer on my original as an experiment & wasn't really happy with the look - it's all personal teaste of course.
Congratulations on your project though - there's nothing wrong with asking questions to make things go smoother - no sense re-inveting the wheel if someone has been there before!
You need to show us pics - what colour did you end up using?
Oh - one more tip - if you paint the console, you probably need to paint the vent unit to match - you can remove the actual vents then just paint the perimiter surround - this makes a nice contrast for the vents & clock which sit inside that. (you might have to look hard for the little screws that hold the vents in - they might be hidden under the foam tape around the unit)

 

[NSX2398]

Finally some pictures

I just got a digital camera so if I can figure out how to post pictures, I'll try to do some this weekend

OK .. it took a little longer than I figured but here's a picture of the transition between the vents (which weren't touched) and the lower section of the console which was re-done. The color match is not exact but close. As you can probably tell if you look closely, the old finish has more of a gloss finish whereas the refinished part is more matte finish. No-one notices unless I point it out.

 

[nsxlr8]

.

 

[NSX2398]

another shot

sorry for the last big picture guys .. I'm still getting the hang of this. This is my second and last shot. It's of the area around the ashtray and vent. I never removed the finish on the ashtray..they just sprayed over the original finish but the match to the rest of the console (which had the metallic finished removed) is virtually identical. I had great difficulty getting the metallic finish off the vent and in the handbrake area but they were obviously able to smooth it out.

 

[jlindy]

Doing the vents is really easy. You can pull them out in and be off in 15 seconds. I wish there was some way to soak them in something to remove all the metallic film without damaging them becasue the sanding is a pain in the ass.

Per D'Ecosse, you can get a really good shine by sanding with 1000 grit sandpaper after you color and then polishing with Zaino or a car wax of your choice. You really feel like you are destroying the finish by sanding after painting until you put the wax on. I used steel wool besides the 1000 grit and it worked pretty well. To me it is 85-90%, but would look perfect if I did it again knowing what I now know.