Help, 17 or 18 inch wheels?

[Hapa88]

OK, look here is the deal: a 1k set of wheels (nevermind wheels AND tires) is 100% a downgrade in performance from your OEM wheels. You really need to spend closer to 2K to get something light, strong, well built, in a 17/18 combo with some good high performance tires. I would wait. Get your cayman parts.

These statements are 100% NOT TRUE and you know it Dave!! The Enkei RPF1 is a inexpensive, lightweight, and strong wheel. Cost for a 17/18" set will be around $1200 and the 17" (even though it's cast and flow formed) weighs LESS than the OEM wheels of the same size!! Here's the PDF:
http://enkei.com/size_chart/RPF1.pdf

+1 I very strongly second that. Don't waste your money on wheels that you'll only regret buying later. Get the exhaust for the Cayman and save up for a proper set of wheels. I say you're spending $1800 - $2200 on wheels and about $1000 - $1200 on a decent set of tires like the S-Drives especially when considering 17/18 combo. Then you want to get a proper set of lug nuts (like the ones with a special key to get them off) and that'll run you about an additional $200-$300. All in to do it right you're looking at $3500 as a rough estimate.

I've owned both expensive sets of wheels (multiple sets of custom ordered Work Wheels, Rays, Gram Lights, custom DPE Forged) and cheap wheels (Flik, XXR, ESM) and can tell you from experience that Price has no relationship to quality.
I believe the advice above to be bad as well in a number of ways: 1) I already showed how the RPF1 is less than $2k. I'm actually considering my next set of wheels to be the TSW Rotary Forged line which are <$1K as seen on Nsxdreamer2 & 1K2Go's cars. 2) The Yokohoma S Drive is an Ultra High Performance tire, meaning that any tire in the Max Performance or Extreme Performance tire category will be far superior in dry performance (I recommend the Dunlop StarSpec instead). 3) $200-$300 on lug nuts?!?!? I don't even know what to say about this unless they are Louis Vuitton Lug nuts..:redface:

$3500 is high. But I'd say 2k minimum.

Butter, you don't need fancy lugnuts IMO. It doesn't add any real safety. ANY lugnut can be removed within seconds, even locking and heptagon ones. $200-300 is a lot of money for something that isn't that different in function than a $60-100 set.

+1 on that. I'd say $30 a set is all you need to spend.. if that...

 

[nsxtasy]

Performance/handling is more important to me than looks and I care about unsprung weight.

If performance/handling is most important to you, your biggest concern should be the availability of tires in the sizes you will need. Getting really sticky tires will give you much more in performance/handling than any differences in weight. But if you choose wheel sizes for which really sticky tires aren't available, nothing you can do can make up for that.

Speedometer error? How much will it be off? Will I be going faster or slower than the speed indicated

Speedometer error can occur for various reasons, but in terms of choosing wheels and tires, it's a function of the difference between the outer diameter of the rear tire size you use, and the outer diameter of the stock rear tire size. If the outer diameter is X percent bigger than stock, then the car will be going X percent faster than the speed indicated, assuming that the speedometer was precisely accurate with the stock tire size. Your NSX is a '95, so the stock rear tire size is 245/40-17. Here is how the outer diameter of various other rear tire sizes compares with your stock tire size:

255/40-17 +1.3 percent
255/35-18 +1.3 percent
275/30-19 +3.2 percent

Rear, deciding between:

245/40/17 tires (17x 8 wheel) or 265/35/18 tire (18 x 9.5 wheel).

I would not recommend either of those rear sizes with a 215/40-17 front on a '95 NSX. Instead, I recommend 255/40-17 on a 17" rear (and 17x8 is too narrow, get 17x9 or 17x9.5), or 255/35-18 on an 18" rear (18x9.5 is fine). These sizes will be closer to the outer diameter of the stock tires, so they will make the TCS function properly. And if you're looking for the best performance and handling, get one of these three tires, which are available in all these sizes: Bridgestone Potenza RE-11, Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec, or Yokohama Advan Neova AD08.

Should I go with 17's or 18's in back? and why?

I think the 17" front and 18" rear is a better combination than the 17"/17", because the tire sidewalls are closer in height and the car won't look as unbalanced as a result.

 

[nsxtasy]

My choices are: keep the OEM wheels and just buy a new set of tires, or sell the OEM wheels and buy new tires and wheels.

I've only owned the NSX for a week so I don't want to start sinking too much money in it......yet.

If you don't want to start sinking money into it, use the OEM wheels you already have. Here are choices for really sticky tires for the OEM wheels on your '95:

Bridgestone Potenza RE-11 205/45-16 and 245/40-17
Toyo Proxes R1R 205/45-16 and 245/40-17
Kumho Ecsta XS 215/45-16 and 245/40-17 or 255/40-17
Falken Azenis RT-615K 215/45-16 and 255/40-17

 

[TURBO2GO]

These statements are 100% NOT TRUE and you know it Dave!! The Enkei RPF1 is a inexpensive, lightweight, and strong wheel. Cost for a 17/18" set will be around $1200 and the 17" (even though it's cast and flow formed) weighs LESS than the OEM wheels of the same size!! Here's the PDF:
http://enkei.com/size_chart/RPF1.pdf

Yes, that wheel, with 4 tires, is 2k not 1K. It might be light, but I am not sure it is BETTER than OEM. Also, it makes a good track wheel but it's not the most stylish especially in OEM sizes so why not keep the OEM.

if I were him I'd lower the car now with bilsteins and springs as that costs less. It makes the car look and handle better and when he does get aftermarket wheels he won't have to do this anyway. Aftermarket wheels with stock wheel gap look bad. Hockey, lower the car, get a set of spacers, plasti-dip your OEM wheels to a gunmetal finish and put some sticky tires on. You're good for a long time with this. Then spend 2-2.5K, get yourself the super light advan RSII in 17/18 and recover 1K from your OEM wheels. That's what I'd do.

 

[HockeyGoalie]

And if you're looking for the best performance and handling, get one of these three tires, which are available in all these sizes: Bridgestone Potenza RE-11, Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec, or Yokohama Advan Neova AD08.

I have the Advan Neova AD08 on my Cayman S, had them on my 996 C4S before that, my favorite tire!

 

[HockeyGoalie]

Yes, that wheel, with 4 tires, is 2k not 1K. It might be light, but I am not sure it is BETTER than OEM. Then spend 2-2.5K, get yourself the super light advan RSII in 17/18 and recover 1K from your OEM wheels. That's what I'd do.

Just to be clear, my $1k for a set of wheels, was wheels only, I was not including tires for this price. I figured another $700-$1k for tires.

I have a buyer for my OEM wheels so that's how this whole new wheels thing started. Right now, I'm leaning toward keep OEM wheels until I learn more about the aftermarket wheel set ups.

I need tires as soon as possible so I need to make a quick decision (the seller discounted the price of the car to pay for the new set of tires).

 

[TURBO2GO]

AD08 is a great tire but it's pricey. Dunlop has a star spec Z2 coming soon. Already released in Japan. Yeah you really have to do your research and make sure you get the right wheel. A lot to be considered. Have you looked at the RSII?

 

[Hapa88]

OK, look here is the deal: a 1k set of wheels (nevermind wheels AND tires) is 100% a downgrade in performance from your OEM wheels. You really need to spend closer to 2K to get something light, strong, well built, in a 17/18 combo with some good high performance tires. I would wait. Get your cayman parts.

Yes, that wheel, with 4 tires, is 2k not 1K. It might be light, but I am not sure it is BETTER than OEM. Also, it makes a good track wheel but it's not the most stylish especially in OEM sizes so why not keep the OEM.

I believe you were talking about wheels only for $1k. Better than OEM is subjective. Most wheels won't be better than OEM because of the fact that the OEM wheels are Forged.

if I were him I'd lower the car now with bilsteins and springs as that costs less. It makes the car look and handle better and when he does get aftermarket wheels he won't have to do this anyway. Aftermarket wheels with stock wheel gap look bad.

He can just get the Bilsteins and keep the OEM springs. Put the Bilsteins on the lower perch and it drops the car 7/8". That's the cheapest and most effective method of lowering because it kills 2 birds with 1 stone (1. it lowers the car 2. it replaces the shocks which are probably worn out anyway). As for sticky tires, they're great and make the car handle like it should, but they come at the expense of increased replacement intervals (meaning more money in the long run). If you don't drive aggressively, then there are a few ways to increase treadlife by adjusting alignment settings and getting less sticky tires..

Hockey, lower the car, get a set of spacers, plasti-dip your OEM wheels to a gunmetal finish and put some sticky tires on. You're good for a long time with this.

I don't know how I feel about the plasti-dip stuff. It's cool as long as it's not permanent IMO. I feel like the darker wheels are just a trend now and it'll change soon. I do like the look, but I think an OEM wheel in the OEM color will retain it's value better.

Then spend 2-2.5K, get yourself the super light advan RSII in 17/18 and recover 1K from your OEM wheels. That's what I'd do.

Let's keep stuff straight here. The Advan RSII could be classified as a DOWNGRADE from the OEM wheel. Remember that the Advan RSII is a CAST wheel that is flow-formed (just like the Enkei RPF1). This construction is lower in quality than a full forged wheel like the OEM wheels. Sure the Advan RSII is lightweight (lighter than OEM and about the same as the Enkei), looks way better (IMO) than the Enkei and OEM wheels, but it also comes at a price point thats twice as much as the Enkei. I guess it depend on what you classify as "better" or an "upgrade" and what's important to you..

 

[TURBO2GO]

I don't think pre-02 wheels are forged, are they?

 

[Hapa88]

I don't think pre-02 wheels are forged, are they?

They are all forged, from 1991-2005
(I'm not sure about the spare tire though.. .:tongue: I can tell you that my spare tire isn't forged, it's more of a jello like consistancy and hangs around my waist )
http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com/1991-to-2005-acura-nsx-6.htm
http://www.nsxprime.com/wiki/1997_Chassis_and_Components
http://www.nsxprime.com/wiki/1997_Model_Info
http://www.nsxprime.com/wiki/Road_and_Track_Aug_90

 

[TURBO2GO]

So who makes a good looking 17" forged wheel for this car? Nobody... advan RZ-DF but I don't like lips.

 

[Hapa88]

So who makes a good looking 17" forged wheel for this car? Nobody... advan RZ-DF but I don't like lips.

Any of these?
http://scienceofspeed.com/products/exterior_performance_products/NSX/wheels_forged.asp

 

[docjohn]

I don't like lips.

I think there is a deeper meaning here.....hmmmmm.....

 

[TURBO2GO]

Any of these?
http://scienceofspeed.com/products/exterior_performance_products/NSX/wheels_forged.asp

Nope. The one without lips is 18/19.

I think there is a deeper meaning here.....hmmmmm.....

I don't know what you mean. Please post a detailed, illustrated reply as to what you mean.

 

[Hapa88]

Nope. The one without lips is 18/19.

The Prodrive GC series of wheels are high strength light weight forged aluminum wheels. Manufactured by Rays Engineering, these wheels represent the pinnacle of high performance wheels for the Acura NSX.
sizes:

17/18": 17x7.5+34 (front) & 18x9.5+34 (rear) - Stoptech tested

 

[TURBO2GO]

No longer made.