Since the clutch is probably the most expensive commonly replaced wear item on the NSX, here's a quick primer to help you save some money before and after the time to replace your clutch.
before you need to replace your clutch:
The design of the early twin disc factory clutch yields a low relative MOI (moment of inertia). While this is great for performance, it also has the effect of making clutch engagement more difficult to judge. In conjunction with the factory friction liner material having a comparatively low coefficient of friction for smooth engagement, the NSX clutch is much easier to slip which in-turn generates heat from friction. Friction leads to wearing of the friction liner, and the eventual need to replace the clutch.
We've found the best way to eliminate premature wear is to consciously think in your head that the key to preserving your clutch is to eliminate as much slip as possible. Be distinctive and static with the clutch engagement and disengagement action. At first, this may make the car very jerky, but with time, you will begin to time the clutch action with engine speed, making clutch engagement smooth. As your skill develops, you will also pick up advanced clutch-saving techniques such as rev-matching which will decrease the amount of friction during gear change. There are some other tips, such as not riding the clutch pedal during car movement, or not leaving the clutch pedal depressed while stopped. Even though the clutch is disengaged when in neutral, the first clutch disc still rides and is subjected to the flywheel spinning at engine speed.
when it's time to replace your clutch:
Most of our customers choose ACT or Centerforce clutches since they offer increased performance over the factory clutch, smooth operation with a more static sporty engagement, and an economical price. However, if a rebuilt clutch is used, a refundable core charge is applied (in our case, $250.00). This core charge is refundable based on the condition that the factory clutch is returned in rebuildable condition. The most common reason why parts of the clutch can not be rebuilt is failure from heat build up. When the clutch begins to slip from wear, the increased friction of the friction material and contact surface not mating statically results in heat. With decreased thermal mass of the worn friction material, and increased thermal build up, the steel begins to weaken and crack. Warpage sometimes occurs, and the damper springs in the clutch discs can be damaged. Even though we keep good components available to replace defective clutch components when a clutch is returned, it may be a good idea to try to eliminate stress on the clutch if you plan on returning it as a core to get your full refund back as there will be a better chance that individual components of the core will not need to be replaced.
Most of this is common sense, however I hope it's helped to keep a few dollars in your pocket.
Cheers,
-- Chris
before you need to replace your clutch:
The design of the early twin disc factory clutch yields a low relative MOI (moment of inertia). While this is great for performance, it also has the effect of making clutch engagement more difficult to judge. In conjunction with the factory friction liner material having a comparatively low coefficient of friction for smooth engagement, the NSX clutch is much easier to slip which in-turn generates heat from friction. Friction leads to wearing of the friction liner, and the eventual need to replace the clutch.
We've found the best way to eliminate premature wear is to consciously think in your head that the key to preserving your clutch is to eliminate as much slip as possible. Be distinctive and static with the clutch engagement and disengagement action. At first, this may make the car very jerky, but with time, you will begin to time the clutch action with engine speed, making clutch engagement smooth. As your skill develops, you will also pick up advanced clutch-saving techniques such as rev-matching which will decrease the amount of friction during gear change. There are some other tips, such as not riding the clutch pedal during car movement, or not leaving the clutch pedal depressed while stopped. Even though the clutch is disengaged when in neutral, the first clutch disc still rides and is subjected to the flywheel spinning at engine speed.
when it's time to replace your clutch:
Most of our customers choose ACT or Centerforce clutches since they offer increased performance over the factory clutch, smooth operation with a more static sporty engagement, and an economical price. However, if a rebuilt clutch is used, a refundable core charge is applied (in our case, $250.00). This core charge is refundable based on the condition that the factory clutch is returned in rebuildable condition. The most common reason why parts of the clutch can not be rebuilt is failure from heat build up. When the clutch begins to slip from wear, the increased friction of the friction material and contact surface not mating statically results in heat. With decreased thermal mass of the worn friction material, and increased thermal build up, the steel begins to weaken and crack. Warpage sometimes occurs, and the damper springs in the clutch discs can be damaged. Even though we keep good components available to replace defective clutch components when a clutch is returned, it may be a good idea to try to eliminate stress on the clutch if you plan on returning it as a core to get your full refund back as there will be a better chance that individual components of the core will not need to be replaced.
Most of this is common sense, however I hope it's helped to keep a few dollars in your pocket.
Cheers,
-- Chris
thanks for the write up.
