I am urgently looking to buy a connecting rod (will I have to buy a set) for a C30A engine. ANY HELFUL INFO OR LEAD IS APPRECIATED!
-
Protip: Profile posts are public! Use Conversations to message other members privately. Everyone can see the content of a profile post.
Where do I buy connecting rods?
- Thread starter darcon
- Start date
First, you don't need to buy a set. Two things you need to be aware of though going with another OEM rod that wasn't from your engine:
1) The machinist you use will have to mic the crankshaft journal and then the used rod diameter to figure out what Honda bearings to buy. This may take a bit of trial and error as Honda bearings are not specified in absolute thickness (as far as I could find), but a link to general thicknesses is here:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/176145-Problem-With-New-OEM-Rod-and-Main-Engine-Bearings?
From what I understand, engine bearings may be hard to find and have to be sourced from overseas. I would personally buy a few extra different-sized sets for your first order to save time/money shipping others later.
2) I would try to match the used rod weight to your other rod weights for balance concerns. You may have to shave a bit off the rod big end cap(s) to match them all.
It looks like there may be a used rod in the marketplace now as part of a display if you can't find it anywhere else (ebay, etc). Things to consider when buying a used rod:
Why was the rod available? If it was hydro-locked or part of a big HP engine build that was scrapped when it bent rods then obviously you don't want it. I also wouldn't want a rod that had a spun bearing and there are score marks inside the rod big end. The less machining the better in my opinion.
Otherwise for a used rod you don't know the history of, besides the obvious close visual check for nicks and so on, measure the concentricity of the big and small end inner diameters, and do a dye penetrant check for cracks. Titanium is non-ferrous, so you can't do a magnetic flux check on it for cracks, but you can have your machinist do a quick dye-penetrant test for peace-of-mind.
Perhaps post a wanted-to-buy thread and you may get some replies. Good luck!
1) The machinist you use will have to mic the crankshaft journal and then the used rod diameter to figure out what Honda bearings to buy. This may take a bit of trial and error as Honda bearings are not specified in absolute thickness (as far as I could find), but a link to general thicknesses is here:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/176145-Problem-With-New-OEM-Rod-and-Main-Engine-Bearings?
From what I understand, engine bearings may be hard to find and have to be sourced from overseas. I would personally buy a few extra different-sized sets for your first order to save time/money shipping others later.
2) I would try to match the used rod weight to your other rod weights for balance concerns. You may have to shave a bit off the rod big end cap(s) to match them all.
It looks like there may be a used rod in the marketplace now as part of a display if you can't find it anywhere else (ebay, etc). Things to consider when buying a used rod:
Why was the rod available? If it was hydro-locked or part of a big HP engine build that was scrapped when it bent rods then obviously you don't want it. I also wouldn't want a rod that had a spun bearing and there are score marks inside the rod big end. The less machining the better in my opinion.
Otherwise for a used rod you don't know the history of, besides the obvious close visual check for nicks and so on, measure the concentricity of the big and small end inner diameters, and do a dye penetrant check for cracks. Titanium is non-ferrous, so you can't do a magnetic flux check on it for cracks, but you can have your machinist do a quick dye-penetrant test for peace-of-mind.
Perhaps post a wanted-to-buy thread and you may get some replies. Good luck!
Many Thanks for the informative reply. I broke a rule that my father gave me years ago (you'll always be too poor to buy cheap stuff) and I'm paying for it now. I went with a local mechanic's recommendation for an engine rebuild. I had planned to ship the engine to SOS but I let him talk me into this Guru of racing engine builders. The guy has had my engine for nearly a full frikkin' year and now tells me he's had difficulty getting parts. I meet with him tomorrow to decide if I'm just gonna get the whole thing back (along with my $$$) and ship it to SOS. Or see if he's got the skill and knowledge required to finish the job. So Disgusted, not only with him, with myself as well....We'll see what the guys at SOS have to say also.
Again, Many Thanks!
Again, Many Thanks!
Last edited:
No problem. Hope that info helps.
SOS has a good reputation in general, however, I've had two bad experiences with them. That being said, I think they are a good option.
Another option that is much closer to you is DMS Performance:
http://www.nsxprime.com/nsx-prime-vendor-list/dms-performance-llc/
I do not have direct experience, but I know they fixed NA1MT's engine after LoveFab's issues. They have neat ideas, pay attention to the details, and have excellent craftsmanship, but I have no idea on prices or how timely they are.
Don't beat yourself up too much on using your mechanic's recommendation for the engine builder. I listened to a friend when I lived in SC and had a similar experience... although Satterfield Machine Shop screwed up my block and heads after waiting 6 months and their endless "excuses" for not getting the work done on time.
The excuse of getting parts is real unfortunately. A lot of stuff has to come from Japan these days as it is no longer in stock over here. I'm not making excuses for his tardiness, but these types of places will never turn away work... they have no estimating/scheduling capabilities and just work on whoever is pressuring them the most or threatening to walk away.
Hope your meeting went well. I would personally stick with them if their actual engine building experience is real and they can commit to actually working on yours. Finding another GOOD machine shop isn't very easy, and shipping is a pain.
Try not to feel bad. My car has been at DA for 6 months on a motor build and it still isn't back from the machine shop.
It sucks though, I know. Good luck with your build.
It sucks though, I know. Good luck with your build.
Yowza! Just looked up the price for ONE connecting rod - $807!!!! Can be found for slightly less on www.amayama.com ($785) although shipping may bring it in parity with US sourced parts.
Looks like SoS has a complete set for $1,976.
Looks like SoS has a complete set for $1,976.
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked
