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Blew a coolant hose today need advice on how to proceed....

Joined
25 June 2013
Messages
279
Location
Denver, Co
I was driving up to my brothers house today in the mountains, while going through a canyon I was following a car in front of me, he started to accelerate through a few turns so I took the opportunity to jump on the throttle as well since he was moving at a decent rate.

I accelerated through about 4 turns or so going about 50-60 mph when all of a sudden the car cut power, I thought for a second that the TCS kicked on and cut the throttle because of slippage which I thought was weird because I wasn't really going that fast. My reaction was to reach up and turn off the TCS when I noticed that the temp gauge was pegged at H! my heart sank into my stomach as I pulled of the road immediately and turned off the car. I jumped out and lifted the hatch and everything was smoking and reeked of antifreeze coolant as it was all over my bumper!

Pic Here:

WP_20141128_22_39_29_Pro.jpg

As you can see one of the hoses split right open and there went everything! I'm concerned that I did damage to the head? What are the steps I should take to make sure that I didn't warp the head?? I'm going to call the dealership on Monday to get a quote.

My next step is to replace all 23 coolant hoses as I'm assuming they are all originals (23 yrs old). I can't complain that they lasted that long but unfortunately it blew in a inopportune time and left me stranded with my daughter waiting for a tow truck for 3 1/2 hours to tow us back to my house. I know I should've replaced the hoses when I bought the car, but lesson learned unfortunately:frown:.

What do you guys think?

Thx
 
Once the car is completely cooled down, start it up and see if it misses. You can run it without coolant for a couple of minutes safely. Good luck.
 
1. perform a compression test
2. if something is not correct with the comp test, do a leak down test.

Report back.
 
Once the car is completely cooled down, start it up and see if it misses. You can run it without coolant for a couple of minutes safely. Good luck.


Ok, do that before the needle starts to climb? Won't there be more fluid coming out of that gash in the hose with whatever residual is remaining in the system?

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1. perform a compression test
2. if something is not correct with the comp test, do a leak down test.

Report back.

Thx, I plan on calling up the dealership and getting a quote from them on the compression test and leak down test, do you know ballpark what they should charge for that?

Sucks because I'm going to have to have the car towed there and back as many times unless I leave it there and have the dealership fix it.

If I did no head damage (praying:confused:!!) then would you guys suggest I just get the reinforced set (6 Main hoses + 17 other OEM) from SOS http://www.scienceofspeed.com/products/engine_performance_products/NSX/Venair/coolant_hose_kit/
 
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Sucks because I'm going to have to have the car towed there and back as many times unless I leave it there and have the dealership fix it.
I'm not sure why you would have it towed to the dealership and then NOT have them fix it. No reason to tow it home again if you can't drive it. If that's not where you would like to get it fixed, instead tow it to the dealership/shop that you would prefer to fix it, and have them do the compression/leakdown test.
 
mine split in the same spot and the same hose, I was driving on borrowed time, I then replaced all 21 hoses.

then about 1 month later my YELLOW coolant tank split LOL I then went thru the car and did everything even if it wasn't broken.

and I see your coolant reserve is yellow it gonna break next mark my words.

when my next OEM tank breaks I will pony up and get the aluminum made one never worry again

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while on the subject when was the last timing belt/waterpump valve adjustment

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when getting the new coolant reserve get a new cap for it those go bad to
 
All good advice from shawn above. Note, if it is close to needing the timing belt and water pump replaced, you may as well do it now, at the same time as you're doing the cooling system hoses.
 
people will say what they will about dealerships...but if you have a previous history with them they may have no problem with keeping your car safe until all work is done.
 
people will say what they will about dealerships...but if you have a previous history with them they may have no problem with keeping your car safe until all work is done.
It also depends on the dealership; some are really great for service, others not so much. Some dealerships have techs (mechanics) with lots of NSX experience, and with lots of experience rebuilding parts (rather than merely replacing assemblies). Other dealerships, not so much. And some areas have independent mechanics with lots of NSX experience, while others don't. In my area, all the mechanics with a lot of NSX experience work at dealerships. I would trust complicated work on my NSX to 3-4 of the 11 dealerships in my area.
 
I'm not sure why you would have it towed to the dealership and then NOT have them fix it. No reason to tow it home again if you can't drive it. If that's not where you would like to get it fixed, instead tow it to the dealership/shop that you would prefer to fix it, and have them do the compression/leakdown test.

The only reason why I said that was if for some reason there was damage to the head then I probably wouldn't have the work done right then and there only because my finances won't allow anything like that until Feb-Mar. If the compression/leakdown test gives me a clean bill of health then yes I will definitely have the place that does the test just install all of the cooling hoses at the same time so I don't have to tow the car all over the place.

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mine split in the same spot and the same hose, I was driving on borrowed time, I then replaced all 21 hoses.

then about 1 month later my YELLOW coolant tank split LOL I then went thru the car and did everything even if it wasn't broken.

and I see your coolant reserve is yellow it gonna break next mark my words.

when my next OEM tank breaks I will pony up and get the aluminum made one never worry again

- - - Updated - - -

while on the subject when was the last timing belt/waterpump valve adjustment

- - - Updated - - -

when getting the new coolant reserve get a new cap for it those go bad to


Wow yours busted at the same spot and same hose? Maybe that's the hose that sees sustained high pressure, or is more susceptible to the elements over the years and that's why that one went at the same spot as yours?

Yea your right I'm going to do my OEM tank with all of the hoses regardless if it's still working because like you said I'm riding on borrowed time with that also so it'll be replaced with everything else. I'll also get a new cap since you said they go bad.

I'll have to check my paperwork when I get home on the mileage when the TB/WP was done..... when they replace all the hoses is the labor going to be about the same as getting in the replacement of the TB/WP?

Do you guys know if State Farm will pay for a tow to the place of my choosing when I get this done? I have full coverage, I just don't know if they will pay or reimburse me back for a flatbed tow within so many miles??
 
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do you have AAA?
 
Do you guys know if State Farm will pay for a tow to the place of my choosing when I get this done? I have full coverage, I just don't know if they will pay or reimburse me back for a flatbed tow within so many miles??
Insurance only pays for tows after a covered accident. Not after a mechanical breakdown.

As the doc implies, auto clubs pay for tows, usually within a specified distance (e.g. under 100 miles).

Of course, the way life generally works, once you sign up for an auto club, that guarantees you won't need a tow. :biggrin:
 
I was driving up to my brothers house today in the mountains, while going through a canyon I was following a car in front of me, he started to accelerate through a few turns so I took the opportunity to jump on the throttle as well since he was moving at a decent rate.

I accelerated through about 4 turns or so going about 50-60 mph when all of a sudden the car cut power, I thought for a second that the TCS kicked on and cut the throttle because of slippage which I thought was weird because I wasn't really going that fast. My reaction was to reach up and turn off the TCS when I noticed that the temp gauge was pegged at H! my heart sank into my stomach as I pulled of the road immediately and turned off the car. I jumped out and lifted the hatch and everything was smoking and reeked of antifreeze coolant as it was all over my bumper!

As you can see one of the hoses split right open and there went everything! I'm concerned that I did damage to the head? What are the steps I should take to make sure that I didn't warp the head?? I'm going to call the dealership on Monday to get a quote.

My next step is to replace all 23 coolant hoses as I'm assuming they are all originals (23 yrs old). I can't complain that they lasted that long but unfortunately it blew in a inopportune time and left me stranded with my daughter waiting for a tow truck for 3 1/2 hours to tow us back to my house. I know I should've replaced the hoses when I bought the car, but lesson learned unfortunately:frown:.

What do you guys think?

Thx

I also had the same hose blow open in the same exact spot during a trackday in Nevada. I had just downshfted and was near redline in 2nd gear, when suddenly my rear view mirror was filled with smoke as I spun off the track. Dumped 3+ gallons of coolant onto the asphalt and my rear tires in a heartbeat.

My engine stalled as soon as I began to spin... Like you I was also worried that I might have a head gasket issue, but all has been well since then. Even managed to drive it home from the track that day after playing contortionist and replacing with a generic hose from a nearby Autozone. Interestingly, even after replacing the hose and refilling the system, every time I would start the engine coolant would come pouring out from under the car. I thought I must have another leak, but it turned out that the clutch bellhousing had filled with coolant when the hose blew. Eventually all the liquid was flung out by the flywheel/clutch and the engine and clutch have worked perfectly since then. :smile:

I later replaced the rest of the hoses and the expansion tank. Post failure analysis of the bad hose showed that it had been ballooning up for some time before failure. I'm guessing each time at the track that I would hit redline it would swell a little bigger, until it couldn't take any more.
 
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Insurance only pays for tows after a covered accident. Not after a mechanical breakdown.

As the doc implies, auto clubs pay for tows, usually within a specified distance (e.g. under 100 miles).

Of course, the way life generally works, once you sign up for an auto club, that guarantees you won't need a tow. :biggrin:

Isn't that how things work :rolleyes: I'll look into AAA and see what their fees are and maybe use them for the tow.

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I also had the same hose blow open in the same exact spot during a trackday in Nevada. I had just downshfted and was near redline in 2nd gear, when suddenly my rear view mirror was filled with smoke as I spun off the track. Dumped 3+ gallons of coolant onto the asphalt and my rear tires in a heartbeat.

My engine stalled as soon as I began to spin... Like you I was also worried that I might have a head gasket issue, but all has been well since then. Even managed to drive it home from the track that day after playing contortionist and replacing with a generic hose from a nearby Autozone. Interestingly, even after replacing the hose and refilling the system, every time I would start the engine coolant would come pouring out from under the car. I thought I must have another leak, but it turned out that the clutch bellhousing had filled with coolant when the hose blew. Eventually all the liquid was flung out by the flywheel/clutch and the engine and clutch have worked perfectly since then. :smile:

I later replaced the rest of the hoses and the expansion tank. Post failure analysis of the bad hose showed that it had been ballooning up for some time before failure. I'm guessing each time at the track that I would hit redline it would swell a little bigger, until it couldn't take any more.

Sounds like that hose takes some abuse and gets real hot! I was running the car pretty hard in the canyon so it finally gave under the pressure. Like you said I wonder how long the hose may have been swelling under pressure before it gave?


That's positive news that I'm looking forward to hear that I hopefully have done no major damage, as the car was shut off about 10 sec or less after the throttle cut out from the coolant sensor.

Didn't realize that the system held that much coolant (3+ gal) and I wonder if mine dumped everything that it had in the system as well or just part of it?

I'll have to make sure that they look to see if the bellhousing isn't holding some of the coolant that leaked out as that would freak me out as well to think I have another leak and it turns out to be what happened to you.

I'm definitely going to replace the expansion tank when I have the coolant hoses done.

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while on the subject when was the last timing belt/waterpump valve adjustment

Well I just went through my paperwork and it looks like the TB/WP was done about 4 years and 10k miles ago along with a valve adjustment by Barnman.
 
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Ok, when looking through the paperwork that I was given with the car, when the timing belt was done in the notes on the receipt it says
"Replaced timing belt and water pump. Also replaced oil cooler hoses and figure 8 o-ring behind oil cooler."
Can I assume that's the hoses around the oil cooler that your talking about? If that's true then how many hoses are there (replaced around oil cooler), and many less than the 23 that I was going to get do I need to minus out of the equation?

Thx
 
Chris W is of the opinion that after an overheat event you replace the oil cooler hoses and thermostat, even if they look fine. Not sure why, but he is insistent about it. In any event, if you do the hoses you should do this one too so you start with fresh rubber everywhere. I was just saying they are a pain to do diy with the engine in the car. It shouldn't add more time to the job at Acura.
 
Chris W is of the opinion that after an overheat event you replace the oil cooler hoses and thermostat, even if they look fine. Not sure why, but he is insistent about it. In any event, if you do the hoses you should do this one too so you start with fresh rubber everywhere. I was just saying they are a pain to do diy with the engine in the car. It shouldn't add more time to the job at Acura.

Hmm.. Ok, well I'm still trying to decide whether or not to do just the 6 main hoses and leave the other 17 for another day?

When you had your issue at the track and subsequent fix at the dealership did they replace all 23 hoses?
 
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Ok, when looking through the paperwork that I was given with the car, when the timing belt was done in the notes on the receipt it says
"Replaced timing belt and water pump. Also replaced oil cooler hoses and figure 8 o-ring behind oil cooler."
Can I assume that's the hoses around the oil cooler that your talking about? If that's true then how many hoses are there (replaced around oil cooler), and many less than the 23 that I was going to get do I need to minus out of the equation?

Thx

Do you have a parts list on the bill? Sounds like they did replace them, and an item list will 100% confirm.
 
23 LOL my bad I never count them I just buy the complete set from SOS and when there are no more in the box I know Im done LOL

is it me or are the SOS coolant hose kits price goes up every month? seems the price goes up 10 bucks everytime I order a set currently at 376 geez they are just hoses made of rubber:eek:
 
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