Hey there NSXers!
My name is Clifford and I run www.mobilehid.com. I'd like to offer the NSX Prime community an opportunity to upgrade their NSX lighting for a rock bottom price. I've sold hundreds of kits on scionlife.com and other web forums but I haven't ever offered specialized kits until now. With the help of GT5 I've done an install and have sourced all the items you will need to install a kit into your own NSX and make it look OEM.
The kits are offered in 3 different variations depending on your need.
Option A: $190 shipped or picked up.
What you get:
* One HID plug and play conversion kit which includes the following:
- 2 rubber injected ballasts
- 2 bulbs with grommets
- 1 wire harness with fuse and relay wired inline
- 1 pack of zip ties
- 2 ballast brackets
- 1 pack of nuts and bolts to mount ballast brackets and spare fuses.
* Color instructions on how to install the kit specifically into your NSX
* Extension cords for the ballast wires so you can run the wire all along the firewall (required on NSXs due to the central battery location)
* Exra looming for your power wires so you can keep the OEM look within your engine bay.
Note: You will need to drill your own 1" holes into your dust caps.
Option B: $210 shipped or picked up.
What you get:
*Everything in Option A
* Your dust caps drilled and outfitted with grommets/bulbs
Note: You will need to send in your dust caps to have them drilled and outfitted with grommets/bulbs.
Option C: $275 shipped or picked up.
What you get:
* Everything in Option A
* Brand new dust caps drilled and outfitted with grommets/bulbs
Note: You will not need to drill anything!
HID Components:
* 1 pair of bulbs no matter the color temp: $60 shipped or picked up.
* 1 pair of rubber injected ballasts: $130 shipped or picked up.
* 1 9006 wire harness with extra looming and extension cords: $30 shipped or picked up.
(Please note the 9006 wire harness will need splicing to work with the McCulloch kit)
I often get asked why my prices are so low compared to your local race shop that may sell HID conversion kits. Well, often times if you go into your local shop and ask for a specific color temp or bulb type that they don't have, they have to check with their supplier and get back to you, right? Well, that's me. When you deal with me, you deal DIRECTLY with the guy bringing them into the country.
Some of you may wonder how my kits compare to the competition. Well, I wondered that too so I bought a kit from a bunch of shops and tested them myself. Since I firmly believe people should make informed decisions, I thought I would share my findings of extensive testing on HID conversion kits from various manufacturers.
Here are just some of the boxes and ballasts.
And as you can tell, there are a lot of copy cats of the ever popular Philips kit.
However, there is one huge design flaw with the Philips kit. It isn't waterproof and as you all know, the NSX headlight environment is not a good playground for anything that isn't waterproof/dustproof.
This is what the Philips kit uses to shield the ballast from the elements:
And this is what is inside:
These plastic housings can actually trap water in them long after you've washed your car or it has rained and on clublexus.com, where I am also a member, there have been instances where the plastic housings have actually aided in the damaging of the ballast due to it trapping water.
Now if the "industry standard" has flaws, what makes a good HID conversion kit?
I've done extensive testing on many kits including Philips, McCulloch, TechOne, HID Cool, Goldeneye, Klight, Bosch, and even OEM ballasts and the kits I offer are by far, the best bang for the buck. I can honestly only say that because I've tested a lot of kits out there.
My stress test requirements:
1) The ballasts have to be rubber injected. This helps to ensure the ballasts can hold up the elements. I soaked my ballast in a bucket of water for days and it still fired up with no issues. Rubber injected ballasts ensures water will not harm the internals, but it also ensures electronic parts inside will not get jostled around during harsh driving conditions. The Philips kit failed this test, as did the Bosch kit. Other kits failed in other areas and did not make it to the water test.
2) A wire harness must provide power directly from the battery to the ballasts. For safety reasons, I do not believe HID ballasts should connect directly to your headlight plug for power. Notice the electrical shock warning on the Philips ballast and ballast cover? Ballasts require a 23,000 volt spike of energy to ignite the bulbs, this level of power should not come from your OEM plug. The IDEAL way is to have the headlight plug trigger a relay and the relay then sends power to the ballasts. The kits I offer have this ideal wiring schematic. All kits, including the popular McCulloch kit, failed this test except for the Philips kit but the Philips kit goes for more than $400 and is not rubber injected.
3) Good quality wiring. I have seen some kits that have really thin gauge wires and cheap looming that you would be ashamed to put on a go-kart. I don't believe in selling cheap crap so even though it costs me more to go with better wiring harnesses, I firmly believe it's worth it. Even then, my prices are so competitively low, my distributors often find themselves marking up prices to well over $350
4) All in one ballasts. This means, no external ignitors. The McCulloch kit failed this test since it has external ignitors. All other kits had integrated ignitors in their ballasts. On a side note, the Goldeneye ballasts reliabily flickered once after a minute of use every time they fired up.
5) Universal wire connections with Philips and most ballast manufacturers. That means the ballasts will connect with the most common wire harness. McCulloch failed this test and the rest of the kits failed by not even having a wire harness included. Again, only the Philips kit and my kit came with one for my testing.
So enough of the testing... on to a real world application.
I recently did an install on GT5's NSX and the only cutting required was for the dust caps on the back of the headlight housings. Two 1" holes were drilled out of the dust caps and grommets were used to ensure the headlights stayed dust free. The installation was VERY OEM-like. The included wire harness with my kits allows the ballasts to pull power directly from the battery so your headlight plugs ARE NOT supplying power. The passenger side OEM plug simply triggers the included relay and the relay then directs power from the battery to the ballasts. I know it sounds like a lot of wires but believe me - they're all in this picture below.
The only hint to something that is not OEM is (obviously no spare tire ) but other than that, the small red fuse wired inline to prevent a power jump from the battery burning out the ballasts. If there was a spare tire in there, you wouldn't have seen the fuse at all.
Here are some pics of the headlights post install but prior to remounting the headlight covers:
Passenger headlight
Driver's headlight
As you can see, no wires are visible between the headlight housing area and the spare tire bay. Once the headlight covers were installed back onto the headlights one would guess that the lighting was OEM. Yes, the ballasts are right behind the headlight housings but they are completely waterproof.
So that's about it. All kits and components come with a 1 year warranty against defects. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask on the boards, via PM, or just give me a call at 602.300.7153. For local members who need a kit installed - you can get Option A installed for an extra $100.
Special thanks go to MalibuRapper, GT5, PVMike for inviting me to the boards.
All the best,
Clifford
My name is Clifford and I run www.mobilehid.com. I'd like to offer the NSX Prime community an opportunity to upgrade their NSX lighting for a rock bottom price. I've sold hundreds of kits on scionlife.com and other web forums but I haven't ever offered specialized kits until now. With the help of GT5 I've done an install and have sourced all the items you will need to install a kit into your own NSX and make it look OEM.
The kits are offered in 3 different variations depending on your need.
Option A: $190 shipped or picked up.
What you get:
* One HID plug and play conversion kit which includes the following:
- 2 rubber injected ballasts
- 2 bulbs with grommets
- 1 wire harness with fuse and relay wired inline
- 1 pack of zip ties
- 2 ballast brackets
- 1 pack of nuts and bolts to mount ballast brackets and spare fuses.
* Color instructions on how to install the kit specifically into your NSX
* Extension cords for the ballast wires so you can run the wire all along the firewall (required on NSXs due to the central battery location)
* Exra looming for your power wires so you can keep the OEM look within your engine bay.
Note: You will need to drill your own 1" holes into your dust caps.
Option B: $210 shipped or picked up.
What you get:
*Everything in Option A
* Your dust caps drilled and outfitted with grommets/bulbs
Note: You will need to send in your dust caps to have them drilled and outfitted with grommets/bulbs.
Option C: $275 shipped or picked up.
What you get:
* Everything in Option A
* Brand new dust caps drilled and outfitted with grommets/bulbs
Note: You will not need to drill anything!
HID Components:
* 1 pair of bulbs no matter the color temp: $60 shipped or picked up.
* 1 pair of rubber injected ballasts: $130 shipped or picked up.
* 1 9006 wire harness with extra looming and extension cords: $30 shipped or picked up.
(Please note the 9006 wire harness will need splicing to work with the McCulloch kit)
I often get asked why my prices are so low compared to your local race shop that may sell HID conversion kits. Well, often times if you go into your local shop and ask for a specific color temp or bulb type that they don't have, they have to check with their supplier and get back to you, right? Well, that's me. When you deal with me, you deal DIRECTLY with the guy bringing them into the country.
Some of you may wonder how my kits compare to the competition. Well, I wondered that too so I bought a kit from a bunch of shops and tested them myself. Since I firmly believe people should make informed decisions, I thought I would share my findings of extensive testing on HID conversion kits from various manufacturers.
Here are just some of the boxes and ballasts.
And as you can tell, there are a lot of copy cats of the ever popular Philips kit.
However, there is one huge design flaw with the Philips kit. It isn't waterproof and as you all know, the NSX headlight environment is not a good playground for anything that isn't waterproof/dustproof.
This is what the Philips kit uses to shield the ballast from the elements:
And this is what is inside:
These plastic housings can actually trap water in them long after you've washed your car or it has rained and on clublexus.com, where I am also a member, there have been instances where the plastic housings have actually aided in the damaging of the ballast due to it trapping water.
Now if the "industry standard" has flaws, what makes a good HID conversion kit?
I've done extensive testing on many kits including Philips, McCulloch, TechOne, HID Cool, Goldeneye, Klight, Bosch, and even OEM ballasts and the kits I offer are by far, the best bang for the buck. I can honestly only say that because I've tested a lot of kits out there.
My stress test requirements:
1) The ballasts have to be rubber injected. This helps to ensure the ballasts can hold up the elements. I soaked my ballast in a bucket of water for days and it still fired up with no issues. Rubber injected ballasts ensures water will not harm the internals, but it also ensures electronic parts inside will not get jostled around during harsh driving conditions. The Philips kit failed this test, as did the Bosch kit. Other kits failed in other areas and did not make it to the water test.
2) A wire harness must provide power directly from the battery to the ballasts. For safety reasons, I do not believe HID ballasts should connect directly to your headlight plug for power. Notice the electrical shock warning on the Philips ballast and ballast cover? Ballasts require a 23,000 volt spike of energy to ignite the bulbs, this level of power should not come from your OEM plug. The IDEAL way is to have the headlight plug trigger a relay and the relay then sends power to the ballasts. The kits I offer have this ideal wiring schematic. All kits, including the popular McCulloch kit, failed this test except for the Philips kit but the Philips kit goes for more than $400 and is not rubber injected.
3) Good quality wiring. I have seen some kits that have really thin gauge wires and cheap looming that you would be ashamed to put on a go-kart. I don't believe in selling cheap crap so even though it costs me more to go with better wiring harnesses, I firmly believe it's worth it. Even then, my prices are so competitively low, my distributors often find themselves marking up prices to well over $350
4) All in one ballasts. This means, no external ignitors. The McCulloch kit failed this test since it has external ignitors. All other kits had integrated ignitors in their ballasts. On a side note, the Goldeneye ballasts reliabily flickered once after a minute of use every time they fired up.
5) Universal wire connections with Philips and most ballast manufacturers. That means the ballasts will connect with the most common wire harness. McCulloch failed this test and the rest of the kits failed by not even having a wire harness included. Again, only the Philips kit and my kit came with one for my testing.
So enough of the testing... on to a real world application.
I recently did an install on GT5's NSX and the only cutting required was for the dust caps on the back of the headlight housings. Two 1" holes were drilled out of the dust caps and grommets were used to ensure the headlights stayed dust free. The installation was VERY OEM-like. The included wire harness with my kits allows the ballasts to pull power directly from the battery so your headlight plugs ARE NOT supplying power. The passenger side OEM plug simply triggers the included relay and the relay then directs power from the battery to the ballasts. I know it sounds like a lot of wires but believe me - they're all in this picture below.
The only hint to something that is not OEM is (obviously no spare tire
) but other than that, the small red fuse wired inline to prevent a power jump from the battery burning out the ballasts. If there was a spare tire in there, you wouldn't have seen the fuse at all.Here are some pics of the headlights post install but prior to remounting the headlight covers:
Passenger headlight
Driver's headlight
As you can see, no wires are visible between the headlight housing area and the spare tire bay. Once the headlight covers were installed back onto the headlights one would guess that the lighting was OEM. Yes, the ballasts are right behind the headlight housings but they are completely waterproof.
So that's about it. All kits and components come with a 1 year warranty against defects. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask on the boards, via PM, or just give me a call at 602.300.7153. For local members who need a kit installed - you can get Option A installed for an extra $100.
Special thanks go to MalibuRapper, GT5, PVMike for inviting me to the boards.
All the best,
Clifford
