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RYU's "properly molested" NSX build thread

^ just trying to keep up with a well though out build. Lots of inspiration for when more modding funds become available.
Really happy that you documented your build so well for other to follow as opposed to building secretly.
 
I also tried to install my old SOS Short Hub since I found a spacer I liked (finally). Too bad my JDM hub does not want to come off. Grrrrrrrr. I need a puller of some type. #fail
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I just picked up an OTC slide hammer (link) to rebuild driveshafts. It may do the trick to remove your hub.

Mike B
 
I'm lagging behind on my updates but here's a quick one.

I decided to take the NSX on a work related work trip to NorCal a couple of wks ago. Decided to run with Hooked On Driving at Sears Point. Note: When at the Driver's meeting for an HOD event, do not ask "What kind of times are people running?". An innocent question since I signed up super late and was in the Intermediate group. I simply wanted to line up properly on grid and respect people who were faster than me. That question got my hand slapped but lots of laughter from the crowd. It was worth it :)

The drive started off with an early morning 6am departure. While it was cool but sunny in LA, the drive thru the grapevine was a bit wet. But no worries! The Michelin Pilot Super Sports are really great tires. Consistent and predictable even in damp/wet conditions and also quiet and comfortable. I love these tires more and more.
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Still overcast as I headed into Bakersfield
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Later on the sun made an appearance!
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I decided to make some damper adjustments to compensate for the extra weight. I must have had about 300lbs of tools, clothes, extra fluids for 3 days of work and 1 track day. How do you like that Titanium Rear Strut Bar? That thing is soooooo light and strong.
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Yes, all this crap fit in the NSX
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First stop was at TrackSpec. After the transmission main seal was changed I was in dire need of an alignment again. For some reason the guys were only able to get -1.7 deg of neg camber in the front. It's really bothering me at the moment but might take it back to West End to get it back to -2.3.
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San Jose has been ground zero for some rather unpleasant NSX related thefts. The valet guys at the Fairmont Hotel were super cool. They let me park front and center with 24hr security.
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Saw our Norcal friends. Really nice putting faces to names. Will see many of you guys at the track events I hope!
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Here are some SEARS POINT Photos!!! I love this track but it does scare me just a little bit. Those walls........................

Setup wise, the car was great. Still fighting some on-throttle understeer but I was able to compensate a bit with the damping at the expense of being a bit too firm in the rear. Might have to tune it with different springs or sway bars. The OSG LSD really shows it's worth in terms of confidence inspiring control and exit speed. Even though i'm not that fast I can notice the difference immediately. My copilot below.

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Best time of the day and first time on the this track.
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Lots of awesome cars
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Unfortunately, Harry's Lap Timer didn't want to play nice with my GoPro. I got NOTHING on video. Even my fun chase with the GT3 and the FF. Pretty upset about that but what can you do...
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- - - Updated - - -

I forgot to mention the car still rubs at the front. It will rub for sure on the corkscrew at MRLS. I need to get either bumpstops or raise the car. I don't want to raise the car because it already looks too high in the rear and I like the handling with my rake now. Decisions................. ugh
 
I have some shiny new JRZ bump stops that I took off the CRX's JRZ's before I put them in you can borrow them to try and tune out the rubbing if you want. Curious about why they couldn't get max camber, did they max the factory lobe adjustment? Can't remember- Do you have after-market eccentric adjustment built into the uprights or A arms? If so, Maybe they were only using one adjustment point and fighting the other, you woulda pointed that out no doubt. What are your rates at now up front? I've got some rear sways in the attic you welcome to try as well. Lets discuss over shabu-shabu.

Also, you are the WORST with cameras. Order a normal GoPro, stop trying to be fancy- just start recording your sessions!
 
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I have some shiny new JRZ bump stops that I took off the CRX's JRZ's before I put them in you can borrow them to try and tune out the rubbing if you want. Curious about why they couldn't get max camber, did they max the factory lobe adjustment? Can't remember- Do you have after-market eccentric adjustment built into the uprights or A arms? If so, Maybe they were only using one adjustment point and fighting the other, you woulda pointed that out no doubt. What are your rates at now up front? I've got some rear sways in the attic you welcome to try as well. Lets discuss over shabu-shabu.

Also, you are the WORST with cameras. Order a normal GoPro, stop trying to be fancy- just start recording your sessions!
I'm all stock up front. Surprising... I KNOW. This alignment shop wasn't really an NSX shop (that's my excuse for now). They mentioned I might have a bent knuckle, which seems really unlikely but we'll see. The only other reason is perhaps during the steering rack, hub, and ball joint swap I somehow lost camber. I was down there with them turning the cam bolts so maybe i'm just as guilty.

Hand over them bumpstops! I was actually going to ask Frank for a set but can try yours first.

You feel my GoPro pain don't you. I'm trying to create fancy videos like you but i'm not worthy.....................................
 
My retail therapy session this week appears to be a success. Thanks to [MENTION=25247]MexiRicer[/MENTION] and our Facebook friends I finally bought one of these antenna hole plugs. $2 part, $8 shipping. It's the price you pay for door to door service.
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I'm really liking this Moroso Air/Oil Separator. I can finally plumb the vent back into the intake sans vacuum leaks. No more gasoline or weird engine smells coming out of the old style breather filter. The cheap Ebay alum catch can also started leaking. The o-ring seal, the wire mesh implementation, and the overall simplicity of this I like. Seems like it will work. We'll see. The other choice would be to use the Radium can which looks really well built, but twice the cost. I'm thinking of buying 2 of these Morosos so I can put one in the front and rear bank.
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I'm excited enough to maybe install these parts tonight. Maybe...............................
 
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I just installed one myself.
You are right no more oil vapors in the engine compartment.
The real test will be this week end on the Magny-Cours F1 track.
 
I just installed one myself.You are right no more oil vapors in the engine compartment.The real test will be this week end on the Magny-Cours F1 track.
Please report back!

Btw.. which one air/oil separator did you buy? Where did you mount it?

I mounted mine last night but I ran out of hose. It's temporarily mounted on zip ties. The kit also came with 90 deg NPT press fit hose nipples. I need to experiment with different ones. Mounting the rear is tricky since I need it easy to get to as I plan to empty this out every track day.

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I got a PM asking why I went with the Moroso vs. the Radium. First of all, Radium sells a Catch Can and a Air/Oil Separator (AOS) - two different ones. Most I've seen here on nsxprime use a the Radium Catch Can. Radium sells very nicely machined products and worth the price for all that custom machine work but I didn't want a Catch Can. The Radium AOS is $399.

The Moroso is machined from a billet piece and provides a sealed environment. The Moroso is $150. Actually, if Moroso would sell their unit w/o a machined mounting bracket it could probably be even cheaper. It doesn't have any fancy baffles or misc drainage chambers but I'm hoping I works.


The Radium states their unit requires engine coolant to be ran thru it. I could see why this would be useful in cold climate states but I didn't think it was necessary for SoCal weather. Overall, I wanted to try something simple but still of good quality. Hence, why I went with the Moroso. We'll see if it works!

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Please report back!

Btw.. which one air/oil separate did you buy? Where did you mount it?

I mounted mine last night but I ran out of hose. It's temporarily mounted on zip tips. The kit also came with 90 deg npt press fit hose nipples. I need to experiment with different ones. Mounting the rear is tricky since I need it easy to get to as I plan to empty this out every track day.

There are a few pictures below.
The separator is mounted on the lip that's just below the rear hatch.
It's on the left hand side where the lip runs parallel to the road.
I've tee'd the front and rear cylinder hoses before going into the separator.
The gasses get sucked out by a venturi tube fitted between the air filter and the turbo.
I've also attached a hose to the bottom of the can. It hangs below the gearbox to empty the separator.
Please note that the separator is mounted as high as possible so that any oil in the hoses would flow back to the engine covers.
This follows the recommendation from DAL Racing:

Rerouting- A lot of stock NSXs have had problems with oil spitting out of the rear valve cover under heavy tracking at high RPM. Honda acknowledged this design flaw by redesigning the rear valve cover on the later cars. Some have never experienced this... some don't drive hard enough. I have permanently solved the problem on all of the cars including our race cars. The problem- (Likely accentuated by your new driving capabilities or style) In V-tech your oil is routed to the heads (Via solenoid valve) to facilitate the hydro lock of the rockers below the more aggressive cam lobe. This design requires massive amounts of oil that leaks profusely like the oil pressure at the crank bearings. The rear head actually fills with oil (The reason why an Accusump is needed for extended V-tech and high G turns... Not enough left in the pan) When the rear cover is full, high-G right hand turns push pure oil out the tube... Not what a breather was designed for. In the OE design, minimal oil is routed directly back into the engine at the throttle body and burned. A breather can be bolted horizontally on the ledge behind the drivers head (In the engine compartment)

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We have ours configured exactly the same. That's reassuring :) I have a T connecting the front and rear valve cover vents into the AOS then output of the AOS connected to the inlet tube after the TB but before the supercharger. I haven't started the car yet and I hope there's no vacuum leak. Will be interesting to see how much fluid it collects at the next track day. I also see you picked up the Moroso version with the drain valve at the bottom. I was worried that might leak. Could you let us know how that works for you?

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btw..thanks for reminding me about the rear hose. I need to check that tonight to make sure it's high enough to allow oil to drain back into the valve cover.
 
Okay Regan I think you have convinced me to use the Moroso. I will be maintaining the fresh-air supply to the crankcase though. That means two catch cans I suppose.
 
Okay Regan I think you have convinced me to use the Moroso. I will be maintaining the fresh-air supply to the crankcase though. That means two catch cans I suppose.
Well... I haven't tested it yet! Who knows what could happen.
[MENTION=28830]jwmelvin[/MENTION] does this mean you'll just have a breather filter on the other end of the AOS instead of plumbing it back to the snout of the SC?
 
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[MENTION=28830]jwmelvin[/MENTION] does this mean you'll just have a breather filter on the other end of the AOS instead of plumbing it back to the snout of the SC?

I think the thing to do is maintain the OE flow: a pre-throttle-body line feeds the cylinder head without a PCV valve and a post-TB line pulls from the cylinder head with a PCV valve. The separator in the pre-TB line should be oriented for flow from the head to the intake, as will occur under boost. With a closed TB, vacuum in the post-TB line will pull air through the crankcase from the pre-TB line, running backwards through the AOS. The post-TB line always has flow from the head to the intake.
 
I believe there is a major difference between the supercharger and the turbo approach?
The supercharger acts more like the OEM method whereby the maximum vacuum in the system occurs when the throttle is closed.
On my turbo mounted system there will be very little vacuum created around idle to increase progressively as the revs increase and the throttle opens.
Is that good or bad I don't know but I do remember that my TB was very oily when I was running with a CTSC.
In any case both FI systems require an AOS that's for sure.
 
Shouldn't a turbo have the same vacuum after the throttle body at idle as any other setup? I thought the problem is that you can't use that to pull vapors because it sees positive pressures under boost.
 
Shouldn't a turbo have the same vacuum after the throttle body at idle as any other setup? I thought the problem is that you can't use that to pull vapors because it sees positive pressures under boost.

Exactly and it's for this reason that I'm obliged to use the vacuum source created between the air filter and the turbo inlet.
 
those seam to be respectable times for a first timer on street tires.Way back when at xpo on second day I was turning 1:46's on Ra1's...what do the fast guys nowdays turn?
 
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those seam to be respectable times for a first timer on street tires.Way back when at xpo on second day I was turning 1:46's on Ra1's...what do the fast guys nowdays turn?
I hear there are two configs doc? It appears the fast guys were running 1:50-55's on the config I was on? Config layout below. I hear a fast time on the other config is in the mid to low 1:40's. Either way, your 1:46's is amazing!!

I must say, as awesome as these Michelin Pilot Super Sports are, they are not a track tire. They heat up quick and ultimate grip is lacking. Not to mention the 18/19 is pretty comical :)

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I was on 17/17...combo...18/19 and the SS would be compromise but lookin good in the pits:biggrin:
 
Hey Regan. The other day, you mentioned your cruise control buttons being mounted somewhere other than the steering wheel. Is this the case and do you have pictures or a write up? I've search around prime for it, but most threads go nowhere or are old and lack pictures. Domo.

Mike B
 
Hey Regan. The other day, you mentioned your cruise control buttons being mounted somewhere other than the steering wheel. Is this the case and do you have pictures or a write up? I've search around prime for it, but most threads go nowhere or are old and lack pictures. Domo.

Mike B

Hi Mike,

It's on the to-do list. Doesn't seem too hard if you can locate the cruise control wires in the steering column. I wired it up on my S2000 steering wheel DIY on here before.
 
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