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Aem Fic Fmu

I live in Colorado. I am a mile above sea level. I have posted elsewhere about this.
I picked up my car yesterday, tuned by Tobi at TC Performance in Arvada, Colorado (http://www.tcperf.com/). He installed my F/IC, using the Boomslang harness that I ordered for my OBDI NSX (see above). Tobi reports that he loved the harness, BTW. It worked perfectly, and the harness can be ordered by phone for the OBDI NSX at the same price as the other NSX F/IC harnesses.
In the past year, I have added the true high boost to my Whipple CTSC, and then added water/methanol injection. Even running pig rich here, I was running into detonation under load on a dyno. So I needed engine management (duh, for high boost, even at this elevation). I was going for the AEM EMS, then was convinced by Tobi to try the F/IC. He had installed five of them (mostly on S2000 OBDII). He ordered the F/IC.
Bit of a delay: It had to be sent back to be reflashed successfully.
So... in the meantime, I read a lot about the Whipple, high boost, engine management, water methanol, detonation, and the CTSC. When the Prime site was down, I did Google searches using the Google advanced site function limited to Prime's Web address (I highly recommend this...when the site was down, i could still read archives).
This is what I believe, based on what I have read here:
The Comptech Whipple system is truly a wonderfully engineered bolt-on system. As I currently understand it, it works basically by fooling the ECU and increasing the fuel enough under boost (by doubling or less the voltage to the stock fuel pump) such that the engine keeps cool -- essentially, over-fueling... and thus preventing engine damage. It also relies on heat from the Whipple to pull timing... over and over again, I have read here that the safest CTSC is the one on the track, running very hot, such that timing is pulled (I have had dozens of track days that attest to this).
I know there has been some argument about this: Adding water/methanol to cool the engine temps could be a very good thing, or it could be a bad thing. On the plus side, cooling can help with longevity of the engine, or increase performance. On the minus side, cooling with the CTSC prevents the heat necessary to have the stock ECU pull timing. Could be a big boom. The controversy? If there is no heat, then there is no need to pull timing... kind of like driving a CTSC in winter or summer. What's the difference?
In my case, water/meth was a mistake, without engine management, even pig rich at high altitiude. Timing was not being pulled with engine heat. Slight detonation, under load on a dyno, resulted.
So... I added a Walbro, new fuel regulator, the F/IC, and Toni's tuning... and I can tell you that there are no engine codes, no issues with cold/hot starts, idle has been great, and the engine sounds as smooth as a sewing machine.

I know it's been only a day, but I drove around town a lot, went a bit of distance on the highway... without even a hiccup... then headed straight for the mountains. I pounded on the car. Hard. Fifteen MPH curves? Yeah, right. Sand on the road? Fun. I could not be happier. 120 miles today.

Redyno/tune to check everything out (such as possible changes between short/long-term fuel trims, and open loop) will occur when the weather warms up, and the gas changes here.

OK..graphs below. A couple of things to note: A/F was measured at the tailpipe (no bung). It also lags behind other parts of the graph, so take the A/F and move it to the left.

Fun things to note: pushing 5 lbs below 3K rpm. 230 torque at 3k rpm. On my low-boost setup, my top torque was 220... here, top torque is 255.
It's my belief that Comptech perfectly sized the Whipple for a bolt-on unit; putting on a smaller pulley maxes out the Whipple at 5K.. but, in my case, putting on a smaller pulley moved the torque curve much lower (and increased torque), which made the car a lot more fun to drive. (I have also been studying recent turbo stats and, although total torque and HP are very high, I think I have more torque down low.. such is the CTSC).

Dynos:



torquefueljan08web.jpg

hpboostjan08web.jpg
 
Great job!

You could get much more boost out of this set up if you wanted to. I am running a 2.9 inch pulley which is about the smallest you can go on the Whipple for RPM limits and I am hiting 9.3 lbs and falling to 8.3 at redline on the 3.2 L motor. You now have the tunning and the cooling and some very good potential. Make sure you put in a safegaurd in case your cooling fails.
 
Has anyone installed one on a N/A OBDII NSX yet? I could use a little tuning to get my idle back to normal and maybe find a few ponies too. :wink: Could I run 550 injectors N/A till I go turbo or would it have a reverse effect? I put down 291 RWHP my last dyno run.
 
I live in Colorado. I am a mile above sea level. I have posted elsewhere about this.
I picked up my car yesterday, tuned by Tobi at TC Performance in Arvada, Colorado (http://www.tcperf.com/). He installed my F/IC, using the Boomslang harness that I ordered for my OBDI NSX (see above). Tobi reports that he loved the harness, BTW. It worked perfectly, and the harness can be ordered by phone for the OBDI NSX at the same price as the other NSX F/IC harnesses.
In the past year, I have added the true high boost to my Whipple CTSC, and then added water/methanol injection. Even running pig rich here, I was running into detonation under load on a dyno. So I needed engine management (duh, for high boost, even at this elevation). I was going for the AEM EMS, then was convinced by Tobi to try the F/IC. He had installed five of them (mostly on S2000 OBDII). He ordered the F/IC.
Bit of a delay: It had to be sent back to be reflashed successfully.
So... in the meantime, I read a lot about the Whipple, high boost, engine management, water methanol, detonation, and the CTSC. When the Prime site was down, I did Google searches using the Google advanced site function limited to Prime's Web address (I highly recommend this...when the site was down, i could still read archives).
This is what I believe, based on what I have read here:
The Comptech Whipple system is truly a wonderfully engineered bolt-on system. As I currently understand it, it works basically by fooling the ECU and increasing the fuel enough under boost (by doubling or less the voltage to the stock fuel pump) such that the engine keeps cool -- essentially, over-fueling... and thus preventing engine damage. It also relies on heat from the Whipple to pull timing... over and over again, I have read here that the safest CTSC is the one on the track, running very hot, such that timing is pulled (I have had dozens of track days that attest to this).
I know there has been some argument about this: Adding water/methanol to cool the engine temps could be a very good thing, or it could be a bad thing. On the plus side, cooling can help with longevity of the engine, or increase performance. On the minus side, cooling with the CTSC prevents the heat necessary to have the stock ECU pull timing. Could be a big boom. The controversy? If there is no heat, then there is no need to pull timing... kind of like driving a CTSC in winter or summer. What's the difference?
In my case, water/meth was a mistake, without engine management, even pig rich at high altitiude. Timing was not being pulled with engine heat. Slight detonation, under load on a dyno, resulted.
So... I added a Walbro, new fuel regulator, the F/IC, and Toni's tuning... and I can tell you that there are no engine codes, no issues with cold/hot starts, idle has been great, and the engine sounds as smooth as a sewing machine.

I know it's been only a day, but I drove around town a lot, went a bit of distance on the highway... without even a hiccup... then headed straight for the mountains. I pounded on the car. Hard. Fifteen MPH curves? Yeah, right. Sand on the road? Fun. I could not be happier. 120 miles today.

Redyno/tune to check everything out (such as possible changes between short/long-term fuel trims, and open loop) will occur when the weather warms up, and the gas changes here.

OK..graphs below. A couple of things to note: A/F was measured at the tailpipe (no bung). It also lags behind other parts of the graph, so take the A/F and move it to the left.

Fun things to note: pushing 5 lbs below 3K rpm. 230 torque at 3k rpm. On my low-boost setup, my top torque was 220... here, top torque is 255.
It's my belief that Comptech perfectly sized the Whipple for a bolt-on unit; putting on a smaller pulley maxes out the Whipple at 5K.. but, in my case, putting on a smaller pulley moved the torque curve much lower (and increased torque), which made the car a lot more fun to drive. (I have also been studying recent turbo stats and, although total torque and HP are very high, I think I have more torque down low.. such is the CTSC).

Dynos:



torquefueljan08web.jpg

hpboostjan08web.jpg

Do you know if it was tuned from the o2 table using the offset or did he only from the map table?
 
couple questions..

Any piggy back such as the Apexi NEO would do the same as the F/IC so you could get a NEO and then get a AEM UEGO for a total of $500 and wire it yourself? Does anybody have screenshot of the F/IC interface?

I wired up a NEO just recently..actually two..and they essentially use the Map signal voltage to change fuel %% , however by using Map signal it actually can pull timing too etc. There is also a trick to wire up the TPS % wire to the Map signal wire also to not let the "honda" ecu see to much voltage and throw a check engine light.

In regards to a full EMS...am I correct in assuming they don't make an application really for OBDII???
 
What would happen if this unit were to be installed on an OBD-I car, tuned, and then the O2 sensor was disconnected? It seems like it would force the car into open loop, perhaps get a bit worse millage than an OBD-II car would get with its sensors working, but prevent the car from leaning itself back out.

Disclaimer- I don't really know anything about engine tuning. Yet. This question is purely out of curiosity, and to try to figure out a little more practical knowledge about open/closed loop operation without damaging my car through experiments.

Thanks,

Nick
 
couple questions..

Any piggy back such as the Apexi NEO would do the same as the F/IC so you could get a NEO and then get a AEM UEGO for a total of $500 and wire it yourself? Does anybody have screenshot of the F/IC interface?

I wired up a NEO just recently..actually two..and they essentially use the Map signal voltage to change fuel %% , however by using Map signal it actually can pull timing too etc. There is also a trick to wire up the TPS % wire to the Map signal wire also to not let the "honda" ecu see to much voltage and throw a check engine light.

In regards to a full EMS...am I correct in assuming they don't make an application really for OBDII???

The AEM FIC differs from other piggybacks such as the NEO because the FIC has a dedicated MAP sensor, onboard dedicated injector drivers, seperate programmeable functions that retard the timing independent of fuel changes. The FIC also has programmeable voltage clamps, inputs for devices like WideBands or other sensors, and an awesome datalogger.

We've had flawless control over larger injectors(750cc injectors on two FIC NSX's thus far). As I've stated in other threads, the AEM FIC almost shouldn't be branded a "piggyback" because it goes above and beyond every other piggyback that I've used.
 
So, can an OBD2 NSX owner buy a used FIC that was initially run in an OBD1 NSX? From what I understand a special SKU was produced for OBD2 NSX (custom logic related to engine start, if I recall correctly) but not sure if this is the one that OBD1 NSX owners have also been applying.
 
One car is drive by wire and one is not. I doubt it. And from the looks of it, as pointed out by Ryu, HKS seems to have a much superior option to the FIC now.
 
So, can an OBD2 NSX owner buy a used FIC that was initially run in an OBD1 NSX? From what I understand a special SKU was produced for OBD2 NSX (custom logic related to engine start, if I recall correctly) but not sure if this is the one that OBD1 NSX owners have also been applying.

There is only one FIC for the NSX, the special model number is for the crank sensor input on the FIC, this model is used for all NSX. There is also a special firmware for the NSX. You must purchase the correct hardware (FIC & Harness) for the NSX and load the correct firmware for the NSX. Once that is done the unit can be used on any year NSX with the correct harness in place. You can wire your own harness or purchase one premade from a Vendor such as Boomslang Fabrication.

Keep in mind the FIC was designed for use on an OBDII system. It will function and can be tuned for use on an OBDI car, but it will take more time to tune on an OBDI car due to the lack of feedback data from the OEM ECU. Without the data stream from the OBDII ECU it takes time for the tuner to understand what the OEM OBDI ECU is doing and trial & error to get the car tuned while the car is in closed loop operation. The WOT tuning is the same for any year and is straight forward and easy to tune with the use of a wideband O2 sensor for refference.

Dave
 
^^ DDozier can get you setup. He has helped me immensely.

One car is drive by wire and one is not. I doubt it. And from the looks of it, as pointed out by Ryu, HKS seems to have a much superior option to the FIC now.
Unfortunately it's also twice the cost and HKS tuners are little to none. :( I hope someday someone like DDozier can take a closer look into the HKS F-Con offerings. I would value his opinion. A little birdie told me HKS has been looking into re-entering the USDM.

According to this page:

http://www.drivingambition.us/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=30-1911

The only difference is the wiring harness.
Yes, and firmware like DDozier said.

Holy 5 year thread back from the dead batman.
kudos to him! at least he searched :)
 
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