Like I said in my previous post, I've had this setup for 2 years now and have put over 10k on it and have had no issues with the pump I think by looking at it that it probably is more reliable than the fuel pump since it is hardly working (it turns at a low RPM and is subject to little heat) I questioned the pump initially and learned that the pump is entirely metal with no plastic gears or parts to fail.:smile:
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Angus Turbo Roll Call
- Thread starter Cozmo
- Start date
Like I said in my previous post, I've had this setup for 2 years now and have put over 10k on it and have had no issues with the pump I think by looking at it that it probably is more reliable than the fuel pump since it is hardly working (it turns at a low RPM and is subject to little heat) I questioned the pump initially and learned that the pump is entirely metal with no plastic gears or parts to fail.:smile:
the dyno graph looks very similar to mine but i sold my car so i couldn't tell you when full boost hit. Honestly the car was only at 5psi for me and that was fast. Like angus and c-speed said it all depends on the way you drive your car & the way you hit the throttle IMO.
not sure how to link this but my dyno chart is at
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=58744&d=1247005852
Bottom line is the the power delivery is like stock- just more of it- much more
thats what I wanted- if I had supercharged the engine the power would be front load but would not feel like an NSX.
my torque is flat after 5k- the acceleration is quite amazing in the 5 to 8k range
Cozmo- looks like your power curve is similar to mine- just add the meth!
Rich
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=58744&d=1247005852
Bottom line is the the power delivery is like stock- just more of it- much more
thats what I wanted- if I had supercharged the engine the power would be front load but would not feel like an NSX.
my torque is flat after 5k- the acceleration is quite amazing in the 5 to 8k range
Cozmo- looks like your power curve is similar to mine- just add the meth!
Rich
Here's a HP chart of my car, RichM's, and one other that I must've found in Angus' kit thread at some point. There is a small 10hp dip in my car's curve between 3000-3500 rpm compared to the other two. HOWEVER you can see that I'm making more power than stock even at those low RPMs so the turbo is doing SOMETHING starting right after 3000 rpm.
I really need to check for exhaust and boost leaks I think. It just seems like it starts boosting .5-1 seconds later than I want it to.
and in case you just think I'm here to complain...Here's what my turbo looks like compared to the CTSC that was on this car before I bought it..
I think that speaks for itself :biggrin:
I really need to check for exhaust and boost leaks I think. It just seems like it starts boosting .5-1 seconds later than I want it to.
and in case you just think I'm here to complain...Here's what my turbo looks like compared to the CTSC that was on this car before I bought it..
I think that speaks for itself :biggrin:
Attachments
^^^^^^^^^
WELL SAID.
The driver can make that little difference with turbo cars.
If any of you remember how Ayrton Senna talked about how he would enter and exit a turboed F1 car and how he would be on the gas while on brakes the same time. Well, that's how he explained about harnessing as much power as he can with turbo engines.
So a less experience M/T driver can make that little difference.
The same goes for 2 different drivers drive the same car and yet get different results..
I think another part of my problem is that my FIC's RPM calibration is way off. I was looking at the logs again and realized it was saying 8500+ RPM before it hit the rev limiter, which is obviously wrong. Unfortunately my car was tuned to where the FIC *thinks* the rpms are so I can't just fix it without having to tweak the hell out of my fuel map. So that means my boost is probably hitting 300-400rpm sooner than it looks in my log.
I just responded to your PM. I suppose I'll repost it below for everyones benefit
C-speed said:
You can verify this by totally f*cking up the RPM calibration. Instead of holding the RPMs at 3k, hold it at like 6k. The gauge on the FIC software will totally read incorrectly as well as your logs... but the car still drives fine
:biggrin:
You can verify this by totally f*cking up the RPM calibration. Instead of holding the RPMs at 3k, hold it at like 6k. The gauge on the FIC software will totally read incorrectly as well as your logs... but the car still drives fine
:biggrin:
Well it wouldn't if it was recalibrated now, because the fuel map would be adding the wrong amounts of fuel at the wrong places. :frown:
Well that is good then - right?
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Yeah it certainly makes things better than I thought. That combined with my short gears making another couple hundred rpm difference probably. :wink:
You should check with your tuner, but I do not think that recalibrating the FIC for RPM if it is only off by 200-300 RPM will be an issue. If your FIC is using the base configuration for the starting point the RPM cells are spaced 450 RPM apart and the FIC is doing the math on the points within that 450 RPM range, unless you have a large percentage change in the values of your fuel table between two adjacent cells, I do not think 300 RPM's will have any effect on the tune. But as always when you pay for a tune, you should not make any changes to that tune without the advice or consent of your tuner unless you are willing to take full responsibility for the tune from that time forward.
You can correct for the error in your graph by shifting your data points 300 or so RPM, but that will not change what you feel when you drive the car. So unless you feel better knowing your curve matches as close as possible to the others in the sample your perception of the car will not change.
Best of luck but based on your dyno runs it looks like a lot of fun to me.
Dave
Looks like you made it out to RTC
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?p...710322&id=201202160220&fbid=10150167823880221
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?p...710322&id=201202160220&fbid=10150167823880221
Ok all you other Angus turbo owners.. At what RPM do you hit full boost, and under what circumstances?
I checked for boost leaks over the weekend and didn't find any (except in my leak tester). It came shooting off at around 5 psi and scared the bejesus out of my newphew who was helping me by filling the air while I listened around for leaks. I think it is safe to say that if there are any leaks they aren't big enough to make much difference.
Yup I try to go when I can. My son always wakes me up early on Saturday mornings so I might as well do something useful.
I checked for boost leaks over the weekend and didn't find any (except in my leak tester
). It came shooting off at around 5 psi and scared the bejesus out of my newphew who was helping me by filling the air while I listened around for leaks. I think it is safe to say that if there are any leaks they aren't big enough to make much difference.Looks like you made it out to RTC
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?p...710322&id=201202160220&fbid=10150167823880221
Yup I try to go when I can. My son always wakes me up early on Saturday mornings so I might as well do something useful.
Wil, another kit well done. Cozmo, your graph looks good. Dosen't look like there is anything wrong with the kit, or the tune. These cars are so much more fun to drive now, even though most of us that have turbo gets will never be able to handle the power that we have, still the car is fun and reliable. Frank
I changed the exhaust housing on my turbo yesterday to an undivided .81 A/R ceramic coated one. Fortunately the bolt holes lined up with the hanger so everything just bolted right back up with minimal trouble. We had a .70 housing that did not have the bolt holes in the same place so they're definitely not all the same. I also changed to the 4" intake at the same time.
It made a tremendous difference. Way more than I expected. I'd estimate that it spools up about 400rpm sooner, and once it starts it hits full boost way faster than it used to (about 1k rpms from 0psi to full boost). That also means that I can get more boost with less throttle than before as well.
The fear with changing it of course is that the top end would start to lose power at higher RPMs, but you can see this isn't the case. I put the car on the 'heartbreak dyno' (dynapack) at Acura of Lynnwood today and got this graph. Pay no attention to the peak numbers, because this dyno is notorious for giving numbers that are lower than usual. Last year at this same meet everyone that dyno'd their cars was angry hehe. Today a 3.2L w laminova CTSC got 316hp just to give you an idea.
This old exhaust housing is the same size my friend's big turbo diesel truck has in it. Everybody I talk to (except angus) thinks it is way oversized for the requirements of this car and my power level. The fact that there's a 90 degree bend in the Y-pipe right before it goes into the housing means it is quite possible that more exhaust was being forced into one side of the housing than the other, which can't be good. Since the y-pipe isn't divided it makes no sense to have a divided housing on the turbo anyway.
If you want your angus turbo to be even better, this is a cheap upgrade that will blow you away (assuming that all the rest of you have 1.0 exhaust housings too). A new housing is about $250, but I got mine used from a guy for $100, plus I bought him and the other guy helping me lunch and I had to pick up a gasket.. so the total was $135, which was well worth it.
I'll get some data logs on the street soon and compare it to the logs I captured the other day so I'll know for sure the differences in RPMs.
It made a tremendous difference. Way more than I expected. I'd estimate that it spools up about 400rpm sooner, and once it starts it hits full boost way faster than it used to (about 1k rpms from 0psi to full boost). That also means that I can get more boost with less throttle than before as well.
The fear with changing it of course is that the top end would start to lose power at higher RPMs, but you can see this isn't the case. I put the car on the 'heartbreak dyno' (dynapack) at Acura of Lynnwood today and got this graph. Pay no attention to the peak numbers, because this dyno is notorious for giving numbers that are lower than usual. Last year at this same meet everyone that dyno'd their cars was angry hehe. Today a 3.2L w laminova CTSC got 316hp just to give you an idea.
This old exhaust housing is the same size my friend's big turbo diesel truck has in it. Everybody I talk to (except angus) thinks it is way oversized for the requirements of this car and my power level. The fact that there's a 90 degree bend in the Y-pipe right before it goes into the housing means it is quite possible that more exhaust was being forced into one side of the housing than the other, which can't be good. Since the y-pipe isn't divided it makes no sense to have a divided housing on the turbo anyway.
If you want your angus turbo to be even better, this is a cheap upgrade that will blow you away (assuming that all the rest of you have 1.0 exhaust housings too). A new housing is about $250, but I got mine used from a guy for $100, plus I bought him and the other guy helping me lunch and I had to pick up a gasket.. so the total was $135, which was well worth it.
I'll get some data logs on the street soon and compare it to the logs I captured the other day so I'll know for sure the differences in RPMs.
I thought others in the forums said the dynapack is notorious for reading HIGH, not low.
Anyone else have experience with this, know whether the dynapack reads consistently high or low?
...ah...or are you saying that that particular dynapack at Acura of Lynnwood reads low?
Anyone else have experience with this, know whether the dynapack reads consistently high or low?
...ah...or are you saying that that particular dynapack at Acura of Lynnwood reads low?
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- Joined
- 10 August 2010
- Messages
- 633
depends on who you ask but the dynapack ive used reads the lowest out of the 3 dynos i had my car on. every dyno is different even within the same brand. it all depends on how they are setup not what brand they are imo.
I'm running the apx kit. Tryn to figure out the boost issue still. But it's also 100 out lol, so that plays a part haha. I love the turbo. I question the turbo itself as we'll, but wil's engineering is spot on.
How many miles do you guys have on your APX kits? Who's got the most? Anyone summer DD theirs?
What are typical things that can easily be improved?
What are all the "little" things that are missing that you found yourself running back and forth to the store for?
What are typical things that can easily be improved?
What are all the "little" things that are missing that you found yourself running back and forth to the store for?
Was that the one with the pipe the smaller pipe or the big one? He has 2 sizes and by default you get the smaller.
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