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At what RWHP level and lbs. of boost have you cracked a cyl sleeve or popped HG?
- Thread starter v8killer
- Start date
How long did you run at 9.8 psi before ther I ringland broke. Were those hard mile?
A Lovefab with a cracked sleeve, like me too and several others recently.
I'm very sorry to hear that but fortunately you are out by SOS. Did Cody do the tuning too?
I was 627 @16-17 lbs. After rebuild by SOS and R&R by Source One it was discovered on tuning day that the pin outs for IAT and coolant temp on the AEM were disconnected/not utilized.
I'm curious who tuned yours?
I'm very sorry to hear that but fortunately you are out by SOS. Did Cody do the tuning too?
I was 627 @16-17 lbs. After rebuild by SOS and R&R by Source One it was discovered on tuning day that the pin outs for IAT and coolant temp on the AEM were disconnected/not utilized.
I'm curious who tuned yours?
Lots of problems with lovefabs lately?
I had 27k miles on mine and a fair amount of track time. Local shop in Phx did the tuning. There were no signs of detonation on the pistons or head. Nothing wrong with the Turbo kit or tune. It really looks like the stock sleeves are limited to 500rwhp. Even there it looks like a roll of the dice. I am trying to find the lowest RWHP someone has cracked a sleeve. So far it looks like 490rwhp in a short amount of running time.
Cracking sleeves is due to high cylinder pressures and fatigue over time... or instantaneously through detonation (tuning). Not necessarily Lovefab's fault.
Since I don't know how to tune, but wanted to learn, I sent a copper NGK spark plug to these guys to modify with a pressure transducer. I have a high sampling rate DAS that I link to my AEM S2 to tune with. Not cheap, but I have a significant investment of time and money in my build. I've also re-welded the heads and have done some crazy things to alter the combustion pattern. It's worth it:
http://www.optrand.com/fliers/psiplug_%20060201.pdf
I'm just curious as to why lovefab was specifically mentioned.
Probably because of my post? For my post OP's sig says LF, mine went recently and so did Blodis.
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Yeah, I popped my sleeve at 16psi/519rwhp. Though, the failure was not due to the boost/power/tuning, it was due to my meth injection not properly atomizing due to cold ambient temps and thus hydro-locking the motor. Now am at just under 500rwhp and 12psi...on my Benson sleeves. Meth is no longer in the car 
FWIW, I popped my piston ringland on the stock motor with my BBSC setup at 9.8psi and 431rwhp.
FWIW, I popped my piston ringland on the stock motor with my BBSC setup at 9.8psi and 431rwhp.
Yeah, I popped my sleeve at 16psi/519rwhp. Though, the failure was not due to the boost/power/tuning, it was due to my meth injection not properly atomizing due to cold ambient temps and thus hydro-locking the motor. Now am at just under 500rwhp and 12psi...on my Benson sleeves. Meth is no longer in the car
FWIW, I popped my piston ringland on the stock motor with my BBSC setup at 9.8psi and 431rwhp.
How may miles did you get out of the BBSC set up at 9.8psi before your rings went? Was it on stock head gasket and compression?
Yes, the engine was totally stock with the BBSC. I got a good 5-6K miles on it. Time was just up before I could get an intercooler built/installed.
Finally! someone who is on the same page as myself
Make sure the quench matches the piston design. I have contemplated the cylinder pressure method or the ion-sensing method. The pressure method is much easier to log and easier to decipher the data though.Finally! someone who is on the same page as myself
I'm a novice engine builder, but a quick learner. I've rebuilt my engine a couple of times as I've learned throughout the whole process. Yes, I would get it together and then want to change something while it was still on the stand.... My last iteration resulted in custom pistons from Wiseco to my personal specs, dimpled, and then ceramic coated. These were matched to my welded heads that were also dimpled and polished (as opposed to ceramic coated). I guess you could say I'm a fan of Jim McFarland's work. I studied various pictures of used NSX heads as they were torn down for various rebuilds on the net and used those as references for the burn patterns and areas I wanted to increase turbulence. I'm not looking for radical changes, just a reduction in timing. I indexed five complete sets of plugs while the heads were off with the ground strap on the exhaust side, and kept my squish clearance at 0.050" with the OEM titanium rods. If I had swapped to 4340 rods I would have reduced the clearance down to the typical 0.030", but these two clearances are ironically identical when you just ratio the clearances and modulus of elasticity for Ti-6Al-4V and 4340 alloy :wink:
I'm putting 12 psi of boost into my engine as low as 3k RPM :smile: I want to monitor everything! I guess I should update my engine build thread, but I seemed to be the only one interested in it and was posting at the end....
There are quite a few knowledgeable people I need to give credit for their help and answering my questions. Unfortunately, they don't post on here anymore.
A lot of OEM engines have had the ringlands break with mild FI on here. I think that is due to the relatively small piston top ring gap from the factory. If someone wanted to have a very modest FI build, they could probably re-use the OEM pistons but increase the top and second ring gaps and use the newer OEM MLS HG for a good 450WHP.
My $0.02.
Dave
Please do keep it up. Many of us may not have anything to contribute or banter about but I, for one, certainly find it enjoyable to read/learn.
ringland at 13psi with stock block 425RWHP~ pump gas.
EVerything else was fine
EVerything else was fine
How many miles did you get out of that set up? Was the compression also stock?
Everything was stock. CR too.
I got less than 10k miles.
I got less than 10k miles.
It seems like 400 rwhp is quite safe properly tuned. 500hp is a ticking time bomb.
If it were me, I'd rebuild to a 3.5L at 500rwhp for a lot more reliability. AND $$$$$$$. As for now, I'm going on 15k miles and 4 years at my current level.
If it were me, I'd rebuild to a 3.5L at 500rwhp for a lot more reliability. AND $$$$$$$. As for now, I'm going on 15k miles and 4 years at my current level.
I'm not very confident that the stock drivetrain can handle more than 450rwhp (which is a really good RWHP for the NSX with upgraded suspension, tires and wheels)
Recently turned my stock 3.0L upto 14.5 psi bringing it to 601whp on pump gas and water meth for about 2 months at this level and numerous beat downs the engine and tranny are taking it flawlessly so far. Only thing changed from stock is the colder spark plugs
is ur boost coming on like a sledge hammer or smoother?
OK. The one guy that I know that grenaded his 650RWHP~ NSX tranny (I think 5~ times) did so in 3rd gear when the boost kicked in violently.
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