Best wheel / tire sizes for track tires.

[Barn Man]

Ive searched and can't find anything that gives much help...but there again it's getting late and my jack and coke is makin me lazy...so.

When purchasing track wheels and tires what is the best sizes to get a wide range of tire options? I'm guessing that 17/18 are the best for the wheel sizes, but I've noticed that it's hard to find a good selection of track tires in those sizes. I'm looking at 215 or 225 40 17 fronts....and 265 35 18 rears. I ran victoracer v710's on my integra but they don't have all the sizes I need for my NSX. So...any bump in the right direction is appreciated. I'm a baller on a budget here so the less expensive the better...biut sticking well in the turns is a must so if I have to sell multiple bodily fluids....so be it.

Thanks guys, have a great week,
Barney

 

[CL65 Captain]

Ive searched and can't find anything that gives much help...but there again it's getting late and my jack and coke is makin me lazy...so.

When purchasing track wheels and tires what is the best sizes to get a wide range of tire options? I'm guessing that 17/18 are the best for the wheel sizes, but I've noticed that it's hard to find a good selection of track tires in those sizes. I'm looking at 215 or 225 40 17 fronts....and 265 35 18 rears. I ran victoracer v710's on my integra but they don't have all the sizes I need for my NSX. So...any bump in the right direction is appreciated. I'm a baller on a budget here so the less expensive the better...biut sticking well in the turns is a must so if I have to sell multiple bodily fluids....so be it.

Thanks guys, have a great week,
Barney

17x8
235/40/17 (Nitto NT01, Toyo RA1, Toyo R888)
225/40/17 (Hoosier R6)

17x9.5 or 10.5
275/40/17 (Nitto NT01, Toyo RA1, Toyo R888, Hoosier R6)

You can go to a 18" rear if you like the "looks" of a staggered size and the tire selection will be the same but the price will be higher. $150 ea more per tire for the rears. No performance advantage, and will be more weight. And really, the 17x17 doesn't look bad at all.

Great setup is Enkei RFP01 - $1000 a set for a 17x8 +45 and 17x9.5 +38 and they are VERY light, something like 16 lbs front and 18 lbs rear.

And it's not a bad looking wheel.

 

[nsxtasy]

It depends on whether or not you're looking for every last hundredth of a second in lap time. I'm not. I'm willing to give up a little bit of speed for the ability to stash all four track tires inside the car so I can drive long distances to the track on my street tires. I've been using the stock '91-93 sizes on the stock '91-93 wheels. There are TONS of R compound tires available in those sizes, and they're a whole lot cheaper than the ones for bigger wheels.

But if you're competing and you're trailering your car anyway so you want the bigger sizes, go for it!

P.S. Nice to see you back here again, Barney!

 

[dpnsx]

It depends on whether or not you're looking for every last hundredth of a second in lap time.

I would've thought the smaller wheels would actually be faster because of the lower moment of inertia/weight. Have you found a performance benefit to the larger rubber?

 

[nsxtasy]

I would've thought the smaller wheels would actually be faster because of the lower moment of inertia/weight. Have you found a performance benefit to the larger rubber?

Not necessarily. The smaller tires and wheels do have a weight advantage. The extra width of the larger tires and wheels may help in cornering. So the advantages offset each other, at least to some extent.

 

[docjohn]

barnman I also use 235/275 combo in 17 inch,seems to be popular for those looking for more pace.I use ssr type c wheels from tire rack,but I think tire rack may not carry them anymore.The captains post is informative.

 

[Barn Man]

I think the 17/17 combo will do the trick. The only problem I have with the 91-93 wheels is looks....I can't seem to find a way to make myself like them....call me a diva...its a problem I have!

The smaller diameter of the early model wheels does in theory save weight...but the added weight of the extra sidewall of the tire almost causes it to be a wash. Plus...if ur like me...u would rather go with 1 or 2 + rotors than a big brake kit. The extra couple of inches in the 17 inch wheel will allow that without worrying about your big brakes eating the back side of your wheels. Id rather ventilate the crap out of the brakes as opposed to running big brakes. Unless im just blistering my rotors and experiencing fade. I ran stock sized rotors on the integra for years with carbotech pads. I ventilated them with custom air ducts and opened up the backing plate for the air to get in better....never had a problem and was braking hard enough to raise a wheel.

So, 17/17 it is!

Thanks guys...good to b back. Look for me on the tracks all over the east coast this year. Ill be the one w a huge grin cause I finally got an Nsx. Have a great week all.

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[stuntman]

17x8
235/40/17 (Nitto NT01, Toyo RA1, Toyo R888)
225/40/17 (Hoosier R6)

17x9.5 or 10.5
275/40/17 (Nitto NT01, Toyo RA1, Toyo R888, Hoosier R6)

+1

I'll add my favorite combo thats been hard to beat in performance and availability of REALLY good tires:


17x8 235/40-17
18x9.5 to 18x10.5 265/35-18 to 275/35-18



billy

 

[Barn Man]

Track tires in 18s are quite a bit higher than 17s though right? That's kinda what's making me think 17/17 combo would be more appealing. Please let me know if im off base here...but that's what I've seen so far.
I have grown to love the kumbo v710s over the years. Im open to others if they offer the same performance to price ratio.

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[CL65 Captain]

Just did a quick search.

Nitto Nt01s
275/40/17 $ 216
275/35/18 $ 262

$ 46 x 2 x ? = jim runs 17s in the rear.

sent from my Evo4

 

[Barn Man]

That's not bad. How's the performance of the motto against the v710? Any idea?

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[CL65 Captain]

Not as sticky as the khumo or hoosier but lasts 5 x longer and $ 3-400 a set cheaper. Its a great hpde r comp tire. Maybe 1-1/2 to 2 seconds slower on the average 2 mile track.

sent from my Evo4

 

[Barn Man]

Well...im running a stage two lovefab kit so ill need a sticky tire. I appreciate the info...good stuff. Im ordering the wheels as we speak.

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[docjohn]

what did you decide?

 

[CL65 Captain]

Oh, the Nitto and Toyo R888 are true r compounds and are plenty sticky, even for high hp. I think Billy was running R888 on the factor x before the yokahama slicks. What are you going to be running? Hpde? Nasa tt? If its for time and the class allows go with the hoosiers, but be aware they will only last 2, maybe 3 weekend events. If you are doing hpde and non competition events, the nitto and toyo r888 are true track tires but will not heat cycle out so quickly.

sent from my Evo4

 

[Barn Man]

I haven't... I just got off the phone w tire rack. I like the enkei pf01 wheel much more than the rpf1...but the rpf1 comes in a 17x9.5 and the pf01 is only offered in 17x8. Grrr. Plus they're saying they aren't a guaranteed fit...even though I know they fit.
I need a margarita.

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[CL65 Captain]

RPf1 comes in a 17x 9.5. I had that size on my rear, tire rack just doesnt carry them anymore. Search online, I think I just saw discounttire.com had them.

sent from my Evo4

 

[docjohn]

I haven't... I just got off the phone w tire rack. I like the enkei pf01 wheel much more than the rpf1...but the rpf1 comes in a 17x9.5 and the pf01 is only offered in 17x8. Grrr. Plus they're saying they aren't a guaranteed fit...even though I know they fit.
I need a margarita.

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back in the day the rack had more of a selection for the nsx,sadly after dropping ssr the list has shrunk....give sos a buz, discount tire may be good as per captain.

 

[CL65 Captain]

http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/M...6538SP&Category_Code=ENKEI-RPF1&Store_Code=EM

sent from my Evo4

EDIT: my bad I was thinking you wanted the RPF1 in 17x9.5. Looks like they don't make the PF01 in that size.

 

[Barn Man]

Well....went with the rpf1 17/17.....now I gotta get tires.

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[stuntman]

Oh, the Nitto and Toyo R888 are true r compounds and are plenty sticky, even for high hp. I think Billy was running R888 on the factor x before the yokahama slicks. What are you going to be running? Hpde? Nasa tt? If its for time and the class allows go with the hoosiers, but be aware they will only last 2, maybe 3 weekend events. If you are doing hpde and non competition events, the nitto and toyo r888 are true track tires but will not heat cycle out so quickly.

sent from my Evo4

Yes we ran R888 and they were quick but the handling feel is not as stable or confidence inspiring for most drivers. The NT01 is probably the most popular tire out there. It also keeps its performance until its corded. And gets faster once its half worn.

 

[bambookid]

wow, this thread was very helpful. i just posted a question about running stock rims with wider tires. But i think my question will be better answered here.

My question was, "Can i safely run 91 OEM rims with 225 in front and 265 in the rear?" I've been running Khumo v710s (225/50-15 & 265/45/16). Last year, I've done 5 autocross and 2 track events with no problems... and recently i put on a brand new set of Khumo V710s and went to Cal Speedway (Jan 2011).

Here is what happened.... I'd 3 sessions and the car felt great!!! loads of grip, very neutral and easy to drive. But on the 4th session and about 20 minutes into it I was coming from the infield and entering the roval and getting up to speed, about 150-200 yards on the straight, and way before the finish line and turn 1 banking, i blew my passenger rear tire and it shreded my rear quarter panel. From inside the cockpit, it was very uneventful. A loud sound and some wheel shutter. Fortunately i was on a straight line so i simply let off and pulled to the side. When i got out and saw the alunimum panel shreded i couldn't believe the damage!!!

i've reviewed it in my head a million times and here were my questions:
1) Was it my set up that allowed compression in the rear passenger tire to get cut on the quarter panel during prior sessions? I wasn't going all that fast... maybe between 135 mph and letting up as i continued on the bank. I typically exited the banking at around 115mph or less. BTW that roval scares the crap out of me!!!
2) Did it my rear tire get cut on the infield and blew up as I sped up on the roval.
3) Was i running too wide of a rear tire and too little air pressure that it allowed the tire to come off the rim? I was running 36lbs hot in the rear and 34 hot in the front.

4) I remember feeling a little "squishy" on the rear end of the car about 2-3 turns before entering the roval. After the bridge, there is heavy breaking and a quick right then left transition. It was on that transition I felt something "odd." It felt a little looser than the previous laps. I should have pulled off but i was stupid and i continued on...

Looking at the blown wheel, I definetly looks like it was cut on the "inside" and not the outside of the rim. Talking with Darren (West End Alignment - very experienced alignment shop), he believes from looking at the actual blown wheel, he believes I picked up a piece of scrap on the infield and that flattened or cut the tire before i got onto the roval.

Anyhow, i'm debating if I should stick with the oem wheels or just get rid of them and go with a true track tire like the RFP1.

Thanks for your input,
Ed C.

 

[nsxtasy]

i blew my passenger rear tire and it shreded my rear quarter panel.

In many situations, it's impossible to pinpoint one specific cause of a problem; there may be many possibilities, and it can even be a combination of those that causes the problem.

It's possible that the narrow wheel was one of the causes of your incident. Kumho recommends that size V710 be mounted on a wheel 8.5-10.0 inches wide, so the 16x8 rim is narrower than their recommendation. One thing that gives me pause about this, though, is that tires mounted on wheels narrower (or wider) than recommended usually fail because of excessive heat and stress building up in the sidewalls, but it looks like yours failed on the tread part of the tire.

I don't think your pressures were too low - assuming, of course, that your tire gauge is accurate, that you didn't have a valve stem fail, etc. Here's the advice for pressures for the V710 on the Tire Rack website, which seems consistent with your pressures (especially in the rear):

The Ecsta V710 will work well on most cars with inflation pressures between 35 and 40 psi ("cold" inflation pressures for autocross use and "hot" inflation pressures for racing use). Kumho Tires has found that most stock suspension wheel rates require hot inflation pressures in the 35-40 psi range. With aggressive suspension rates and good roll control wheel rates, you can reduce your hot inflation pressures to around 28-32 psi. Cars that are light, well balanced and relatively easy on tires will find slightly lower pressures may work for them, while heavy, high horsepower cars that are generally harder on tires may find that they need slightly higher inflation pressures.

Could it have been debris on the track? Sure. Especially if there was any evidence on the tire that it was cut in some way.

Bottom line, it could have been some combination of one or more of these causes, or something else. You may never know.

FWIW, I had a rear street tire on my NSX blow out a few years ago, with the outer sidewall shredded. I had been checking pressures regularly, but I had had problems with the valve stem, and I can only guess that this was the cause that precipitated the failure.

HTH

 

[Totes McGoats]

Barn I'm having Deja Vu reading this thread... :wink:

 

[e.pie]

I know a lot of people run slicks on the NA1 15/16" wheels as a budget setup, but they won't fit over NA2 brakes. AP1 S2000 wheels are the same widths as NA1 wheels, just 16/16" so in theory they should clear the NA2 brakes. Has anyone tried AP1 S2K wheels on an NSX?