Brake Rotor Suggestion

[sollaris]

Just wondering if anyone has used these rotors from Dali before:
http://daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog/index_browse_part.cfm?focus=365

I need a new set of rotors and im not looking for anything expensive as the car is mostly used on the street with the occasional (once or twice a year) track session. Are these good? Should i be looking at the more expensive StopTech (not even sure if they still make them for the NSX in slotted) or Brembo rotors instead?

Just looking for what some of you currently use.

Thanks

 

[Cozmo]

You might also want to check out the cquence.net rotors. They're supposedly made from the same blanks as stoptech. That and they probably have a much higher chance of actually showing up after you order them. :wink: and they're cheap.

 

[angus]

You might also want to check out the cquence.net rotors. They're supposedly made from the same blanks as stoptech. That and they probably have a much higher chance of actually showing up after you order them. :wink: and they're cheap.

Funny, sad and true all in one sentence.

 

[Cozmo]

I plan on picking up a set of the slotted ones in the next couple months. I was tempted to go for the slotted/dimpled ones but apparently those dimples make noise, which I'd rather avoid.

 

[SFNSXguy]

FYI...

Slotted rotors wear pads faster than the cross-drilled ones.... but almost all cross-drilled rotors crack over time.

I've used Dali's cross drilled rotors for many years with no problems.

 

[nsxtasy]

Slotted rotors wear pads faster than the cross-drilled ones.... but almost all cross-drilled rotors crack over time.

I've used them all - solid-faced rotors, slotted rotors, and cross-drilled rotors - and I've kept detailed records of their longevity and the longevity of brake pads on my heavily-tracked NSX. I've found that there is no difference in the wear rate of brake pads between one kind of rotors and another (slotted rotors do NOT wear pads faster). I've also found that there is no difference in the longevity of the rotors; all three types crack after roughly the same amount of time. (Many people think that cross-drilled rotors crack sooner because they always form radial cracks through the holes, but the other types start cracking after about the same number of track miles.) The one type of rotors which has lasted longer (more track miles) in my experience is two-piece rotors.

 

[Ko-nsx]

I want to upgrade my brakes on my 2000. All im really wanting is the look and increased stopping power. Can i do a bigger slotted rotor, rebuild and powdercoat my calipers and buy better pads cheaper than buying a big brake it? Are aftermarket rotors lighter that oem rotors?

 

[NSXGMS]

I want to upgrade my brakes on my 2000. All im really wanting is the look and increased stopping power. Can i do a bigger slotted rotor, rebuild and powdercoat my calipers and buy better pads cheaper than buying a big brake it? Are aftermarket rotors lighter that oem rotors?

Unless you're running R-compound tires and have suspension upgrades I'd recommend sticking with OEM calipers, a good aftermarket street pad, good brake fluid and either OEM rotors or a popular OEM-sized aftermarket rotor. If you track the car brake ducting will also help.

The Dali rotors are Powerslot products I believe. You can probably buy them from PS if you're not interested in ordering from Dali. Most popular AM rotors are about the same quality give or take as the OEM rotors. The consensus is that the OEM rotors are very good. Most OEM-sized AM rotors aren't much of an improvement but can be slightly cheaper in my experience.

 

[Moses]

I want to upgrade my brakes on my 2000. All im really wanting is the look and increased stopping power. Can i do a bigger slotted rotor, rebuild and powdercoat my calipers and buy better pads cheaper than buying a big brake it? Are aftermarket rotors lighter that oem rotors?

I have something similar to what's shown below and for me it made a huge difference and looks a lot better. I have the "big" rotors with oem calipers. These run $2400, they're a 2 piece design which will be lighter than the oem rotors.

DaliRacing

Heres my set up, feels in the space really good.

 

[sollaris]

Thanks to everyone for the advice. Im going to try the cquence rotors as I cant seem to find any bad reviews anywhere...

Next questions, Brake Pads? Im thinking the Hawk HP+ pads as I am preparing the car for a few HPDE events, but it will be driven on the street some as well. Beleive it has Porterfields? on it right now. An other suggestions?

 

[nsxtasy]

Next questions, Brake Pads? Im thinking the Hawk HP+ pads as I am preparing the car for a few HPDE events, but it will be driven on the street some as well.

The Hawk HP+ is a good choice. That's what I use. They dust a lot, but the dust is easily washed off, unlike some other pads. They don't make noise, and they stand up well to the heat of an occasional track event.

I recently did a web search for prices for the HP+ for the NSX front, and here's what I came up with, in order by approximate price:

Discountperformanceautoparts.com - $93.65 (after discount) with free shipping
Topbrakes.com - $97.94 (free shipping over $100)
Ajusa.com - $97.95 shipped
Honsport.com - $90 plus shipping
No Limit - $103.78 (free shipping over $150)
mynismo.com - $99.08 plus shipping
tunersports.com - $110.27 shipped
Ultrarev.com - $102.55 plus shipping
Modacar.com - $103.78 plus shipping
Tire Rack - $111 plus shipping

I ordered them from the first place listed and they showed up two days later.

 

[Cozmo]

I'm getting the cquence rotors installed on my car on Tuesday. I got the curved slottted ones. I'll post some pics when it is done.

 

[sollaris]

I just got the normal slotted ones (Power Cross?).

Just ordered the HP+ pads from the first link you sent me, best price i found plus free shipping. Thanks a ton for the help. Ill let you know how they work out once i get them all in and installed.

 

[Cozmo]

here's a crappy phone pic of my cquence rotors after a few days of use.

 

[wilsonp]

Just had my Cquence rotors put on with Panther AX6 (Panther Plus) brakes. I really liked these when I had them before, but switched to something else because they were apparently eating my OEM rotors instead of wearing the pads.

I decided to switch back to gain that initial bite and sensitive feel.

I do wonder why I bought the black coating since that was wiped away in the first few stops.

 

[Honda3200]

i've used the R1 slotted/drilled rotors and put about 2500 miles on them. so far no problems at all; no cracking or warping. the main difference with the slotted rotors is that you get a bit more roughness in the braking feedback sensation as the pads bite into the disc. didnt really notice much change in overall braking, but then again i dont track my car and i put em on mainly for looks. and they do look awesome ;-)

 

[CL65 Captain]

I want to upgrade my brakes on my 2000. All im really wanting is the look and increased stopping power.

First off, your "stopping power" is going to be limited by the stickiness of your tires. Secondly, even a super dupper Brembo/Stoptech/AP, etc BBK isn't really going to increase your stopping power it will only help you deal with heat and fade. Ditto slotted rotors, etc.

Can i do a bigger slotted rotor, rebuild and powdercoat my calipers and buy better pads cheaper than buying a big brake it? Are aftermarket rotors lighter that oem rotors?

For a street car - powder coat the calipers, and if you want the "look" get slotted rotors - you won't be able to find cross drilled for NA2 OEM size rotors. Hawk HPS or Carbotech Bobcats will give you a little more bite. To be honest - for a street car any pad will do. Taking it to the track is a whole different story. You are not going to see nearly the sorts of temps as you do on a road course. 1000F+.

 

[ryneen]

Does anyone else have any good suggestions besides cquence on where to buy stock sized rear rotors for track use? I'm not into bling, just good quality rotors for a good price.
thanks.

 

[nsxtasy]

Does anyone else have any good suggestions besides cquence on where to buy stock sized rear rotors for track use? I'm not into bling, just good quality rotors for a good price.
thanks.

Are you sure something's wrong with the rotors you currently have? I've found that, even with extensive track use, the NSX rear rotors last approximately forever, even though there is a decent amount of braking done in the back (unlike some other cars). I replace rear pads about 60 percent as often as front pads, but I almost never need to replace rear rotors. Rear pads typically last me 600-800 actual track miles, but I've never cracked any rear rotors, and they last over 5,000 actual track miles before they finally reach the minimum thickness spec. Unless they're cracked or at the minimum spec, the ones you have are probably fine.

As for buying rear rotors, Delray Acura sells stock ones for $156. Tire Rack sells Powerslot rears for $63 each, has them cryo treated for $92, and sells Brembo replacements for $113 each, and Brembo slotted for $206/pair.

 

[lutera]

I once ordered rotors from www.irotors.com & had no issues with them. They sell on E-bay and I think I got a set for $249? They can drill/slot per your request & offer various coatings. Just make sure to ask for BRADI and/or BREMBO blanks. Good luck.

 

[rsevo6]

I am still using OE discs with Carbotech Panther plus pads on my '98 CTSC NSX
After a recent trackday with the NSX driving with children suffering from heart disease going up to about 60% of max, afterwards I was also asked to do full speed laps with some of the track marshalls to have them experience the real thing, so ofcourse I obliged :wink:
With 2 people in the car, after about 8-10 almost full speed laps the brakes were clearly starting to overheat so had to tune down a bit to keep things right.
The next day when inspecting the brakes, I found the front OE discs to show tiny rubbing surface cracks. Nothing alarming, but clearly I asked a bit too much of them and will probably be replacing them in the near future with front RB big brake kit that I still have on the shelf (2 piece discs with caliper brackets)

I will never use drilled discs on the track, have seen too many of them crack under full track use, had it happen myself too in the past, never used drilled since. Have not yet seen this happen with plain or slotted discs..

 

[nsxtasy]

With 2 people in the car, after about 8-10 almost full speed laps the brakes were clearly starting to overheat so had to tune down a bit to keep things right.

They should not overheat in that time. There are several possible reasons. Perhaps you brake over too long a distance (a common beginner error). Perhaps your pads had not been used on the track before (pads typically fade the first session or two while they are outgassing, then are fine for their remaining life). Perhaps your brake fluid was not fresh or was not high-temperature fluid.

The next day when inspecting the brakes, I found the front OE discs to show tiny rubbing surface cracks. Nothing alarming, but clearly I asked a bit too much of them and will probably be replacing them in the near future with front RB big brake kit that I still have on the shelf (2 piece discs with caliper brackets)

I will never use drilled discs on the track, have seen too many of them crack under full track use, had it happen myself too in the past, never used drilled since. Have not yet seen this happen with plain or slotted discs..

As already stated above:

I've used them all - solid-faced rotors, slotted rotors, and cross-drilled rotors - and I've kept detailed records of their longevity and the longevity of brake pads on my heavily-tracked NSX. I've found that there is no difference in the wear rate of brake pads between one kind of rotors and another (slotted rotors do NOT wear pads faster). I've also found that there is no difference in the longevity of the rotors; all three types crack after roughly the same amount of time. (Many people think that cross-drilled rotors crack sooner because they always form radial cracks through the holes, but the other types start cracking after about the same number of track miles.) The one type of rotors which has lasted longer (more track miles) in my experience is two-piece rotors.

 

[rsevo6]

They should not overheat in that time. There are several possible reasons. Perhaps you brake over too long a distance (a common beginner error). Perhaps your pads had not been used on the track before (pads typically fade the first session or two while they are outgassing, then are fine for their remaining life). Perhaps your brake fluid was not fresh or was not high-temperature fluid.


As already stated above:

I hold a racing licence and drive in the MaX5 Miata challenge, reasonably well I might add, am 6th in the drivers competition at the moment, so I dare to say I have some idea of how to drive (and brake) on the track.
I always use Ate Blue racing fluid and the brakes are in perfect condition, nothing wrong.
You may have missed the fact that my NSX is supercharged, so I can keep up or overtake the F and P cars on track, this is probably the reason why they asked me to take the track marshalls for a spin with my "fake Ferrari" as they laughingly called it.:biggrin:
With this speed and the weight of 2 people in the car (which is a big extra load on the brakes as compared to driving alone) the brakes just couldn't cope

Regarding the drilled brake discs subject:
I think we will have to agree to disagree as I personally managed to fully crack a drilled disc on the track, never having that happen to plain or slotted discs

 

[CL65 Captain]

(Many people think that cross-drilled rotors crack sooner because they always form radial cracks through the holes, but the other types start cracking after about the same number of track miles.)

Not my experience. Had to pitch my Brembo dilled rotors after four track days. After day four there were cracks coming from almost every single hole. The cracks weren't that bad except that in 3 spots the cracks went from the hole to up over the edge of the rotor. Switched to RB slotted replacement for the Brembo hats. Four track days and no cracks what so ever yet.

 

[Caustic]

Drilled rotors are standard on Porsche Turbos and Ferraris, not slotted. If the cracking issue is true, why haven't they moved on to slotted rotors?