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Cost of repairing body damage?

Joined
14 December 2003
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82
Anyone know how much it costs to take out small bends/crease lines in a fender?


I'm assuming it's more expensive since the NSX is aluminum.
 
It really shouldnt be anymore expensive than any other car. Does the bend/crease go in or out? IE: Will it have to be pulled out or hammered in to be flush again? Since it is just on a fender I would imagine it isnt TOO bad, so I would guess $200 for a fair price. Depends how greedy the shop is you choose to do the work ;)
 
ChrisA said:
It really shouldnt be anymore expensive than any other car. Does the bend/crease go in or out? IE: Will it have to be pulled out or hammered in to be flush again? Since it is just on a fender I would imagine it isnt TOO bad, so I would guess $200 for a fair price. Depends how greedy the shop is you choose to do the work ;)

It's related to this thread:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=27605


The fender was pushed in a little so it has these fold/crease lines. I would imagine it needs to be pulled out a little and then smoothed out.
 
So I'm guessing any reputable body shop should be able to fix a door ding? Sorry, I was always under the impression that an aluminum panel was way harder to fix than steel.....:confused: Anyone want to clarify this? Don't have an NSX yet, but I can't stand door dings.....
 
Can a NSX with very slight frame damage be rebuilt and turn into a track car? How much would it cost if the vehicle needs some replacement parts both in the front and in the rear?
 
Aluminum is metal. Hit it with a hammer and it bends just like other metals. The difference is you need to be careful not to contaminate it and to use materials, primers, filllers etc., that are meant for aluminum.
The repair tools you use on aluminum ie., stainless steel brushes, hammers, dollies, spoons etc., have to be reserved for aluminum only and not used on any other material to avoid a galvanic reaction with/on the aluminum. Bare aluminum begins to oxidize the moment it hits the air and you have to be aware and prepared to deal with this before you begin to apply any materials over it (paint, primers, fillers etc.)
It is very soft and tears and stretches easily. It does not give any visual indication that it is at it's melting point so heat has to be used with great care and reservation. One minute you are heating the panel the next you have a nice expensive aluminum puddle and silver shoes.
Unless the problem can be solved with paintless dent repair $200.00 won't cover the cost.
The Mitchell manual accessed from the home page of NSX Prime list 2.4 hours of time to paint a fender not including application of a clear coat or if it is 3-stage paint. According to the procedure pages of this manual the clear coat time of the first panel is 50% of the base time or in this case 1.2 hours.
2.4+1.2= 3.6 hours 3.6 x say $40.00 per hour comes to $144.00
before the paint, materials, tax and other required labor operations and costs.
This should be a guide to help you determine a approximate cost to repair this panel IF it can be repaired.
I would take your highest guess and add 25-50% to be safe. Better yet, ask to get a estimate from a shop you would want to repair this panel. And remember, it all depends on how greedy the repair shop is. :rolleyes:
 
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