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Dead battery again
- Thread starter iroar
- Start date
What kind of batteries have you been using?
Also, what electrical add ons have you installed?
Also, what electrical add ons have you installed?
Acura OEM for my model year
Valentine wired to be on only with engine
Pioneer Inno wired same way
You have some kind of excessive parasitic drain going on. Obviously as your batteries get drained and you recharge them, they lose capacity and will go bad. Still, something isn't quite right about your battery drain.
The V1 hardwire should be pretty simple and you would know if it stayed on all the time. The Inno looks to be a no brainer as well as it's fm modulated.
Make sure none of your lights stay on. drop a video camera into the trunk to make sure that the trunk light isn't always on, I think the glovebox has a light too but I forget how it is triggered.
For a basically stock 05, if you're driving it enough to charge the battery once in a while you should be fine. If it's still under warranty, I'd have the dealer check it out.
A Battery Tender will probably keep your battery tip top but I would fix the electrical gremlin first.
The V1 hardwire should be pretty simple and you would know if it stayed on all the time. The Inno looks to be a no brainer as well as it's fm modulated.
Make sure none of your lights stay on. drop a video camera into the trunk to make sure that the trunk light isn't always on, I think the glovebox has a light too but I forget how it is triggered.
For a basically stock 05, if you're driving it enough to charge the battery once in a while you should be fine. If it's still under warranty, I'd have the dealer check it out.
A Battery Tender will probably keep your battery tip top but I would fix the electrical gremlin first.
Thanks for your prompt reply. I will let the dealer checkout the battery and 'gremlin' issue and start using a battery tender.
- Joined
- 26 September 2006
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Check you battery clamps. I have seen numerous NSX's with clamps that moved around so easily that you can slip them off. If you have a bad connection, it can hinder your alternator from charging your battery while driving.
If that is the case, then it's only a matter of time before you use up all the juice
stored in the battery!
You can test the terminals with a multimeter and see if you are getting charge at the battery when the car is running. You should see 13.5 volts or so at the battery.
Not sure if this will help you, but since I have seen this on a few NSX's, I thought I would share the info.
Ben
If that is the case, then it's only a matter of time before you use up all the juice
stored in the battery!
You can test the terminals with a multimeter and see if you are getting charge at the battery when the car is running. You should see 13.5 volts or so at the battery.
Not sure if this will help you, but since I have seen this on a few NSX's, I thought I would share the info.
Ben
I've found that a week and a half is about borderline, about the point where the car can be hard or impossible to start. Any time my car sits for more than about five days, I connect my automatic battery charger (as Malibu Rapper previously recommended doing).
I was afraid of that being the case. The car is garaged and thus the alarm is not essential. Does it make any difference if the alarm is not armed?
I did the calculations of current draw and battery capacity and you should be good for at least 6 - 8 weeks on a normal car with a good battery. Anything less then 6 weeks there is something in not normal. On my car I have no problems leaving it sit for 4 weeks, if its going to be longer than that it goes on life support.
Interesting - I was about to ask about that same issue.
About 2 months ago my '04 sat unused about 10 days and wouldn't start. Got a jump and took it to the dealer who took me right away :smile: and checked it while I waited.
Told me they checked the entire electrical system and everything checked out OK but I needed a new battery. They fully charged the "dead" battery and sent me on my way. Took them almost 3 weeks to get the new battery and I had NO problem in the interim.
But I got the new battery (anyway ?)
It's about 6 weeks since the new battery was installed and I use my NSX basically as a daily driver. However, since it hit the 30K mile mark and I hadn't scheduled yet I let it sit for only 5 days and the car wouldn't start (again).
Took it back to Acura. They just called me and told me the electrical system was fine; they tightened up all the fittings, re-charged the battery and I can come get it.
They also told me "You know, all these new cars, if they sit for a week or so have these sorts of issues." I told him I wasn't buying that at all. My S4 was sitting for almost 6 weeks and started on the first turn of the key.
I now have my 30K service scheduled for Thursday and of course I'll ask them to go over the electrical system as well. :frown:
BTW, FWIW, the car is dead stock.
About 2 months ago my '04 sat unused about 10 days and wouldn't start. Got a jump and took it to the dealer who took me right away :smile: and checked it while I waited.
Told me they checked the entire electrical system and everything checked out OK but I needed a new battery. They fully charged the "dead" battery and sent me on my way. Took them almost 3 weeks to get the new battery and I had NO problem in the interim.
But I got the new battery (anyway ?)
It's about 6 weeks since the new battery was installed and I use my NSX basically as a daily driver. However, since it hit the 30K mile mark and I hadn't scheduled yet I let it sit for only 5 days and the car wouldn't start (again).
Took it back to Acura. They just called me and told me the electrical system was fine; they tightened up all the fittings, re-charged the battery and I can come get it.
They also told me "You know, all these new cars, if they sit for a week or so have these sorts of issues." I told him I wasn't buying that at all. My S4 was sitting for almost 6 weeks and started on the first turn of the key.
I now have my 30K service scheduled for Thursday and of course I'll ask them to go over the electrical system as well. :frown:
BTW, FWIW, the car is dead stock.
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My 02 with OEM battery, alarm on and boomerang, lasted about that long too.
I killed that battery twice. Replaced it with a small Odyssee. If Im not driving the car for more than 3 or 4 days, I put the tender on.
I killed that battery twice. Replaced it with a small Odyssee. If Im not driving the car for more than 3 or 4 days, I put the tender on.
Most dealers are not that adept at trouble shooting strange intermittent problems. Checking the static current draw is not hard but I would be surprised if a dealer tech would even have a mA meter on hand to measure it let alone even know how to connect it up. The battery is not draining itself. :tongue:
I am Bringing this one back up.
I have a parasitic draw of 0.04 amps when my car is parked, alarm not on.
I have lost my first battery, down the drain, put in a back up just to let it sit and see what happens. I had a capacitor that was drawing around 0.20 amps that had a broken relay that I just removed and tossed, I hope this ousts my gremlin but...
Is 0.04 normal on these cars. Brian, can you tell me what you car is drawing parked?
Thanks a bunch.
Joe
I have a parasitic draw of 0.04 amps when my car is parked, alarm not on.
I have lost my first battery, down the drain, put in a back up just to let it sit and see what happens. I had a capacitor that was drawing around 0.20 amps that had a broken relay that I just removed and tossed, I hope this ousts my gremlin but...
Is 0.04 normal on these cars. Brian, can you tell me what you car is drawing parked?
Thanks a bunch.
Joe
Joe
I measured mine at 65 mA (.065A) so yours at 40mA is very good.
I measured mine at 65 mA (.065A) so yours at 40mA is very good.
I use a battery tender (NOT a trickler charger) on everything that is not a daily driver!
Sweet! My Gremlins are gone!!! AWESOME!!!
This was the first morning my car started with out a jump since September.
This was the first morning my car started with out a jump since September.
Reviving this thread ........ though the issue is not a dead battery per se.
I replaced my Optima red battery with a new Odyssey that has been fully charged and connected to Battery Tender Jr which trickle charges at 0.75A (750mA). Both the battery and the alternator were tested and they are good. The cables are secured tight.
Upon cold cranking in the mornings - irrespective of how long it has stayed on the battery tender, the car is misfiring with cell codes. This doesn't happen when the codes are cleared and the car is warm; nor did it happen in warmer weather. Seems to occur from December - February when the weather is coldest here in NorCal and that isn't saying much. It also did not happen with a regular off the shelf loaner battery which makes me wonder!
After some head scratching and having it looked a few times, I am suspecting that I may have a parasitic drain that must be significant enough so for some reason perhaps the dry cell batteries might not be able to handle? The local dealer says they have a test for parasitic drain so I am schedule to have it tested there.
Question: on an electrically stock NSX, what would cause a parasitic drain that is high? The car is parked in the garage without the alarm being on.
I read the previous posts where the parasitic drain seems to be between 0.04 - 0.07A (40mA-70mA) with ChitownNSX mentioning 200mA with a broken capacitator. That fix seems to have resolved that problem.
I replaced my Optima red battery with a new Odyssey that has been fully charged and connected to Battery Tender Jr which trickle charges at 0.75A (750mA). Both the battery and the alternator were tested and they are good. The cables are secured tight.
Upon cold cranking in the mornings - irrespective of how long it has stayed on the battery tender, the car is misfiring with cell codes. This doesn't happen when the codes are cleared and the car is warm; nor did it happen in warmer weather. Seems to occur from December - February when the weather is coldest here in NorCal and that isn't saying much. It also did not happen with a regular off the shelf loaner battery which makes me wonder!
After some head scratching and having it looked a few times, I am suspecting that I may have a parasitic drain that must be significant enough so for some reason perhaps the dry cell batteries might not be able to handle? The local dealer says they have a test for parasitic drain so I am schedule to have it tested there.
Question: on an electrically stock NSX, what would cause a parasitic drain that is high? The car is parked in the garage without the alarm being on.
I read the previous posts where the parasitic drain seems to be between 0.04 - 0.07A (40mA-70mA) with ChitownNSX mentioning 200mA with a broken capacitator. That fix seems to have resolved that problem.
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Hrant: my 91 has a 37ma parasitic draw. I keep the battery out during the winter and a smart charger on it during the driving season. You can hook up an amp meter and simply start pulling fuses to see where the draw is.
Dave
Dave
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Yep, that is part of the test we will be doing. But the funny thing this seems to occur only in cold weather first cranking start!
Hrant:
Do you have a current clamp adapter for your meter that you can measure starter draw? It would be fun to know the starter draw. The number should be ~120 amps. If you have had low cranking voltage in the past there may be a short in the armature in the starter. That would be a secondary problem to the battery not staying charged.
Dave
Do you have a current clamp adapter for your meter that you can measure starter draw? It would be fun to know the starter draw. The number should be ~120 amps. If you have had low cranking voltage in the past there may be a short in the armature in the starter. That would be a secondary problem to the battery not staying charged.
Dave
Update - though digressing a bit from the OP.
Not sure how the starter draw will show up on a dealer's print out (PGM-FI Freeze data and Data List) but they claimed the starter was ok. The parasitic loss/drain was only 27 milliamp. Battery was good showing 14 volts.
As is the case in many such situations, the dealer couldn't duplicate the problem even though the car stayed overnight for a second testing early in the morning with ambient temp in the high 40sF - ideal conditions for it to have happened. According to the dealer, all stats look good!
Our next focus may shift to the fuel map/injectors in case there is a minor leak since this tends to happen after the car has been parked for a few days - this could be the variable. I do have CTSC - autorotor with OEM injectors. The print out had quite a few other stats like map sensor, st fuel trim B1/B2 that I don't know what they all mean or should be! Faxed it to Shad to see if he can decipher and diagnose.
Not sure how the starter draw will show up on a dealer's print out (PGM-FI Freeze data and Data List) but they claimed the starter was ok. The parasitic loss/drain was only 27 milliamp. Battery was good showing 14 volts.
As is the case in many such situations, the dealer couldn't duplicate the problem even though the car stayed overnight for a second testing early in the morning with ambient temp in the high 40sF - ideal conditions for it to have happened. According to the dealer, all stats look good!
Our next focus may shift to the fuel map/injectors in case there is a minor leak since this tends to happen after the car has been parked for a few days - this could be the variable. I do have CTSC - autorotor with OEM injectors. The print out had quite a few other stats like map sensor, st fuel trim B1/B2 that I don't know what they all mean or should be! Faxed it to Shad to see if he can decipher and diagnose.
Hi Hrant,
I am keeping a close eye on your updates because I am experiencing the same problem as you. I also have a CTSC Autorotor so I am beginning to think something may be wrong with the ACM (or ESM...can't remember which one came with the Autorotor). Were the cel codes that were thrown injector related? My codes were related to all 6 injectors. At first I thought my problem was battery related as well, but after getting a new battery as well as a battery tender, the problem still pops-up every now and then.
The next thing I would do is load test the battery. Find someone with a Sun VAT-40. Your 14 volts resting is good but that is only surface charge. You could also measure battery voltage while cranking. Make sure it stays above 10.2 during cranking.
Does the car start after the first start failure?
Dave
Does the car start after the first start failure?
Dave
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Ryan, will keep you posted. [I thought you were in Japan no?]
The codes are all misfire fuel cylinders 1 to 6 (confirmed DTCs).
Dave, the car doesn't fail at first start, it just wants to sputter and doesn't want to hold the RPM until I rev it to about 1500 and keep it there for 1 minute than all is smooth. There is enough voltage/amperage to crank the battery. We did test the draw at cranking, I believe it was about 11.5 volts - it may have been the other battery, but the battery has been ruled out. At ignition II, I believe it is 13+ something like 13.2 using the OEM gauge reading.
The codes are all misfire fuel cylinders 1 to 6 (confirmed DTCs).
Dave, the car doesn't fail at first start, it just wants to sputter and doesn't want to hold the RPM until I rev it to about 1500 and keep it there for 1 minute than all is smooth. There is enough voltage/amperage to crank the battery. We did test the draw at cranking, I believe it was about 11.5 volts - it may have been the other battery, but the battery has been ruled out. At ignition II, I believe it is 13+ something like 13.2 using the OEM gauge reading.
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