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Finally got my turbo......
- Thread starter HYPERTUNE
- Start date
Cool looking intake manifold!
good luck getting your project done. Should be awsome when you get it done:smile:
Thanks for the positive comments. :smile:
It should work out quite nicely. Certainly won't have any probs with oil return :biggrin:
Also allows for very short cooler plumbing (water/air located above front rocker cover) and a nice intake to the turbo.
It should work out quite nicely. Certainly won't have any probs with oil return :biggrin:
Also allows for very short cooler plumbing (water/air located above front rocker cover) and a nice intake to the turbo.
Interesting place for the turbo...
Have any under-sided shots to see how you plumbed that thing?
Have any under-sided shots to see how you plumbed that thing?
Maybe no issues with "oil return" but but might be an issue with oil supply. I would think you will have some heat soak issues also. Good luck and keep us posted.
Armando
Armando
Dylan: I did cnc the flange and runners for the manifold. are you only interested in the flange? I could change thm a little to make it more suitable to welding on runners if you like. Let me know and I'll work out how much.
stuntman: I don't have any underside shots yet. I'm still working on the headers. Does anyone have a hookup with Burns Stainless ? :biggrin:
stevenlee & Miami: I don't think heat will be a problem. I will heat wrap the headers & dump, and probably the turb. housing. If it is a problem, I will probably run a vented lexan hatch. Oil supply will be no problem at all. I am going to tap it from the pressure sender location near the fwd vtec solenoid.
stuntman: I don't have any underside shots yet. I'm still working on the headers. Does anyone have a hookup with Burns Stainless ? :biggrin:
stevenlee & Miami: I don't think heat will be a problem. I will heat wrap the headers & dump, and probably the turb. housing. If it is a problem, I will probably run a vented lexan hatch. Oil supply will be no problem at all. I am going to tap it from the pressure sender location near the fwd vtec solenoid.
Why would you not grab the oil from the same spot everyone else does....over by the oil pressure sensor? Are people suggesting that this would be to long to run the oil supply line? Would it be that big a deal to do that...its such a small line that you run anyway?
J. R.
Well, running it from the normal location will mean the line has to make its way past the exhaust manifold. It's no problem really, but I prefer the location near the VTEC solenoid. It has nothing to do with being too long, just about neatness and simplicity.
How is your setup going?
Its moving right along. Currently I am at the same stage you are....building the manifold and piping. I will be placing the turbo around the same area as you but not as high up. I was just fitting the intercooler last night and took a couple pics of that, there in the gallery. With putting the turbo up as high as you show in your pictures your going to be really restricted on the size DP you go with don't you think?
J. R.
I can EASILY fit 3.5". I was even thinking about branching out to dual 3" straight off the turbine housing which would also fit no probs. Actually, a 4" would fit also, but I would need a tight radius bend to do it.
My plan is to run a single 3.5" dump, then split to dual 3" in the center under the trunk, one muffler around 14" long under each side, then a 90 deg to each outlet in the factory location.
I vote 4" to two 3". That would give you the greatest initial volume aft the turbine wheel to give you the highest pressure drop and therefore the greatest Delta P across the turbine wheel to help spool that TO4Z 51. I won't be mad if you copy me on that.....my plan is to also run a 4" DP to duel 3" cans out the back. Going to make the car as quiet as possible and then later install a boost actuated cut-out like I had on my S2000. That way it is always quiet unless I produce lets say.....6 psi or higher of boost.
This is exciting. I LOVE engineering this stuff.
J. R.
Hey J.R, just checked out your pics.
Looks like you are dual passing the I/C? I would be concerned about the pressure drop if you are. The core looks around 3" thick, and I think the dual pass might be a little restrictive. I reckon you would like the setup I am going to use. Unfortunately I only have a cardboard box for an I/C at the moment (trying to find a cheaper shipping price from the US for my core, as the shipping is almost as expensive as the core $200 USD!!!).
When I get the core I will take some pics for you. I'm going to go water/air, which I don't necessarily like, but I think is the best setup for the NSX.
On the subject of water/air ,I am going to relocate the A/C receiver/dryer from infront of the radiator to behind. this will allow me to neatly install a fairly large rad for the intercooler. I am also going to control the intercooler pump speed with the Motec, using the fan control "thingy" from an EVO9. This will give me fully proportional pump speed based on boost pressure and air intake temp. Saves having the pump going flat out all the time.
Whilst we are on the topic of the Motec (well, I am anyway :biggrin: ) I am also going to have a valve in my exhaust system. Actually two, one on each muffler. I am going to have a 2.5" tube inside the muffler, with a butterfly inside. When closed, the exhaust will have to travel between the perforated 3" inner tube of the muffler, and the 2.5" tube. This should reduce the noise significantly and also limit the power capability. I run a bung in the back of my Civics muffler on the street, and find that the restriction makes it really nice to drive in first and second gear. Much easier to control the power delivery. On the NSX, I am going to control the exhaust valve with the motec. I am planning on using a table with throttle position and slip percentage as the two axes. Basically, below a certain throttle position, the valve will always be closed. At full throttle, the valve will open. Then, if wheelspin is detected, the valve will close proportionally with the amount of spin. It will work in a similar fashion to a standard traction control system.
Any way, enough rambling. I really should be working on the car........
Looks like you are dual passing the I/C? I would be concerned about the pressure drop if you are. The core looks around 3" thick, and I think the dual pass might be a little restrictive. I reckon you would like the setup I am going to use. Unfortunately I only have a cardboard box for an I/C at the moment (trying to find a cheaper shipping price from the US for my core, as the shipping is almost as expensive as the core $200 USD!!!).
When I get the core I will take some pics for you. I'm going to go water/air, which I don't necessarily like, but I think is the best setup for the NSX.
On the subject of water/air ,I am going to relocate the A/C receiver/dryer from infront of the radiator to behind. this will allow me to neatly install a fairly large rad for the intercooler. I am also going to control the intercooler pump speed with the Motec, using the fan control "thingy" from an EVO9. This will give me fully proportional pump speed based on boost pressure and air intake temp. Saves having the pump going flat out all the time.
Whilst we are on the topic of the Motec (well, I am anyway :biggrin: ) I am also going to have a valve in my exhaust system. Actually two, one on each muffler. I am going to have a 2.5" tube inside the muffler, with a butterfly inside. When closed, the exhaust will have to travel between the perforated 3" inner tube of the muffler, and the 2.5" tube. This should reduce the noise significantly and also limit the power capability. I run a bung in the back of my Civics muffler on the street, and find that the restriction makes it really nice to drive in first and second gear. Much easier to control the power delivery. On the NSX, I am going to control the exhaust valve with the motec. I am planning on using a table with throttle position and slip percentage as the two axes. Basically, below a certain throttle position, the valve will always be closed. At full throttle, the valve will open. Then, if wheelspin is detected, the valve will close proportionally with the amount of spin. It will work in a similar fashion to a standard traction control system.
Any way, enough rambling. I really should be working on the car........
Sounds good. Yes I know all about the pressure drop associated with the type of IC a chose, but more is the flow characteristic of it. The air must travel down one side, then flip a 90 and come back. I choose simplicity in the set-up, rather than what I thought would have the best flow and make the most power. I find that more power is saved or gained in the engineering of the hot side of things rather than the IC pipes anyway. Also, along with the simplicity thing, I am trying to keep things simple. Hence the Air/Air IC, gravity feed, mechanical cut-out. Once I get everything up and running I will then play with other stuff.
Sounds fun what you are doing with the Motec. I sort of did something similar with the AEM on a buddy's car. We used the nitrous output map to run a water/meth set-up that could vary when the water meth sprayed and for how long and such. There is some fun stuff that you can do now with the electronics.
Can't wait to see how you set-up your manifold, DP, and exhaust. Good luck on the project! :smile:
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J. R.
