For those of you thinking of installing headers yourself, you might be interested in the following exploits of installing headers with no lift. I work at a very moderate pace and I'm doing the work myself because I find it very enjoyable, a hobby if you will. I was an auto mechanic for about 6 years and a jet engine (TF-33 and TF-39) mechanic for 5 years. I'm an Information Systems Tech now but still love turning wrenches.
I jacked up the car enough to work comfortably. I also purchased some thick foam mats from Home Depot to lay on. The mats are sold in 4's, and are put together like a puzzle in any configuration you like. Much nicer than laying on concrete.
Night 1: Got started late (7:30pm) but did manage to remove the exhaust and cats. One cat was stuck to the muffler pipe but with a little finesse, came loose. Looking forward to replacing the exhaust (muffler) as the stock unit is pretty heavy. The Taitec lightweight exhaust should be here next Friday I hope. Anyway, no problems so far. Finished for the night at 10pm. Note: I removed the muffler assembly by my self. I laid under the muffler and removed the unit from the hangers. (Total work time for tonight: 2.5 hrs)
Night 2: Removed the rear exhaust manifold. Ran into a little trouble with figuring out how to get the box end wrench over the Oxygen sensor. At first I tried removing the sensor with a crows foot but the foot just expanded to the point where it would slip over the nut part of the sensor. I was thinking I could just cut the wires and then solder them back when finished, but I decided to call my neighbor for a second opinion.
He showed me how to remove the connector without damaging the wires (easy when you know how!). With the connector removed, and using a box end, the sensor didn't put up much of a fight.
Started removal of some of the items to get the front manifold off. Should have everything removed by tomorrow. I'm glad the heat shields aren't going back on as they are the biggest pain of the project so far. Oh yeah, not a glitch with removing the manifold nuts. Easy as pie. I'll leave instructions on how to remove the connector from the sensor later. I'm beat....long day at work. (Total work time for tonight: 3 hrs)
Night 3: All is removed. The only problem I had was removing the front engine mount center bolt. I ended up removing all bolts/nuts from the cross member. In doing so, the cross member dropped an inch or two, giving me more room to get to the engine mount center bolt. There is just not very much room to move a wrench/rachet, but dropping the cross member helps just enough. The front manifold was much more of a pain than the rear for sure.
Don't forget to remove the A/C compressor connector before removal of the compressor. Also, removing the cross member takes some finesse. I removed it on the drivers side. Again, as mentioned above, I'm sure glad the heat shields aren't going back on
.
Installation of new headers starts tomorrow. I have to work in the morning so won't get started until some time after noon. I have taken some pictures and will post them when project is finished. (Total work time for tonight: 3 hrs)
Night 4: Worked today then did lawn work before it started to rain. What I'm trying to say is I got started late today.
Both headers are on and all of the Front motor mount, front beam, Rod A, and Center rod assemblies are in place.
I used a different technic to put the Front Beam on. I read on someone else's post that they removed the plastic cover for the transmission shift levers, and then loosened the three bolts that hold the lever assembly to the transmission. Loosening the three bolts makes it much easier to reinstall the front beam for sure.
Next, installed the front motor mount to the beam while the front beam is still loose and hanging. Had no problems with holding the nut in place while I torqued the front motor mount bolt. I then pushed the front beam into place and used the two nuts (one at each end) to hold it in place loosely. I had just enough room to put the three bolts that hold the motor mount to the engine block. All went well but the bolt next to the header went very slowly, about an eighth of a turn at a time. Smaller hands would have allowed me to turn the bolt snug, then torque it down...oh well, it's done.
Didn't have to remove the rear engine center bolt and lift the engine as the instruction suggested I might have to do. Will install the oxygen sensors and route the wire tomorrow. The only thing next is the installation of the muffler assembly. I might drag my feet on that task as the Taitec Lightweight exhaust from SOS hopefully will arrive soon. Then again, it's really not much trouble to remove the exhaust once you've done it. (Total work time for tonight: 4 hrs)
Day 5: IT IS ALIVE! Installed both Oxygen sensors and routed the lines. As suggested, ran the front sensor line to the back and followed the other sensor path. The extensions supplied with the kit were just the right length. Secured in place with tie-wraps.
Installed the cats. Had to use the old O-ring seals since the new seals were not in the kit as the instructions would have you belive. I'll order some from Honda/Acura and install them when I do the new exhaust.
Installed the muffler system. Checked my work and fired it up. Nice header sound. Checked for leaks and found none. Lowered the car and test drove it. I was raining very lightly and the roads were slick so I couldn't really check WOT, but I do like the sound. Can't wait for the Taitec exhaust to come in and for dryer weather. (Total work time for today: 2 hrs)
For me, this was a fairly easy job. I will remove the headers in a year and send them to Jet-Hot for ceramic coating. Probably could do the same job in half the time now that I know were everything is. Was it worth saving the $200-300 to have someone else do it, you bet. But for me, it's not the money, it's the fact that I get to know the car better and personal satisfaction.
Pictures of the project can be found <title>New Page 1</title><base target="_blank"></head><body><a href="http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291005761">here</a></p>
------------------
1994 Green-black roof/tan, 5 speed
Do you know of another Green-Black roof NSX?? Please email me if you do.
[This message has been edited by Litesokneecough (edited 16 December 2002).]
I jacked up the car enough to work comfortably. I also purchased some thick foam mats from Home Depot to lay on. The mats are sold in 4's, and are put together like a puzzle in any configuration you like. Much nicer than laying on concrete.
Night 1: Got started late (7:30pm) but did manage to remove the exhaust and cats. One cat was stuck to the muffler pipe but with a little finesse, came loose. Looking forward to replacing the exhaust (muffler) as the stock unit is pretty heavy. The Taitec lightweight exhaust should be here next Friday I hope. Anyway, no problems so far. Finished for the night at 10pm. Note: I removed the muffler assembly by my self. I laid under the muffler and removed the unit from the hangers. (Total work time for tonight: 2.5 hrs)
Night 2: Removed the rear exhaust manifold. Ran into a little trouble with figuring out how to get the box end wrench over the Oxygen sensor. At first I tried removing the sensor with a crows foot but the foot just expanded to the point where it would slip over the nut part of the sensor. I was thinking I could just cut the wires and then solder them back when finished, but I decided to call my neighbor for a second opinion.
He showed me how to remove the connector without damaging the wires (easy when you know how!). With the connector removed, and using a box end, the sensor didn't put up much of a fight.
Started removal of some of the items to get the front manifold off. Should have everything removed by tomorrow. I'm glad the heat shields aren't going back on as they are the biggest pain of the project so far. Oh yeah, not a glitch with removing the manifold nuts. Easy as pie. I'll leave instructions on how to remove the connector from the sensor later. I'm beat....long day at work. (Total work time for tonight: 3 hrs)
Night 3: All is removed. The only problem I had was removing the front engine mount center bolt. I ended up removing all bolts/nuts from the cross member. In doing so, the cross member dropped an inch or two, giving me more room to get to the engine mount center bolt. There is just not very much room to move a wrench/rachet, but dropping the cross member helps just enough. The front manifold was much more of a pain than the rear for sure.
Don't forget to remove the A/C compressor connector before removal of the compressor. Also, removing the cross member takes some finesse. I removed it on the drivers side. Again, as mentioned above, I'm sure glad the heat shields aren't going back on
Installation of new headers starts tomorrow. I have to work in the morning so won't get started until some time after noon. I have taken some pictures and will post them when project is finished. (Total work time for tonight: 3 hrs)
Night 4: Worked today then did lawn work before it started to rain. What I'm trying to say is I got started late today.
Both headers are on and all of the Front motor mount, front beam, Rod A, and Center rod assemblies are in place.
I used a different technic to put the Front Beam on. I read on someone else's post that they removed the plastic cover for the transmission shift levers, and then loosened the three bolts that hold the lever assembly to the transmission. Loosening the three bolts makes it much easier to reinstall the front beam for sure.
Next, installed the front motor mount to the beam while the front beam is still loose and hanging. Had no problems with holding the nut in place while I torqued the front motor mount bolt. I then pushed the front beam into place and used the two nuts (one at each end) to hold it in place loosely. I had just enough room to put the three bolts that hold the motor mount to the engine block. All went well but the bolt next to the header went very slowly, about an eighth of a turn at a time. Smaller hands would have allowed me to turn the bolt snug, then torque it down...oh well, it's done.
Didn't have to remove the rear engine center bolt and lift the engine as the instruction suggested I might have to do. Will install the oxygen sensors and route the wire tomorrow. The only thing next is the installation of the muffler assembly. I might drag my feet on that task as the Taitec Lightweight exhaust from SOS hopefully will arrive soon. Then again, it's really not much trouble to remove the exhaust once you've done it. (Total work time for tonight: 4 hrs)
Day 5: IT IS ALIVE! Installed both Oxygen sensors and routed the lines. As suggested, ran the front sensor line to the back and followed the other sensor path. The extensions supplied with the kit were just the right length. Secured in place with tie-wraps.
Installed the cats. Had to use the old O-ring seals since the new seals were not in the kit as the instructions would have you belive. I'll order some from Honda/Acura and install them when I do the new exhaust.
Installed the muffler system. Checked my work and fired it up. Nice header sound. Checked for leaks and found none. Lowered the car and test drove it. I was raining very lightly and the roads were slick so I couldn't really check WOT, but I do like the sound. Can't wait for the Taitec exhaust to come in and for dryer weather. (Total work time for today: 2 hrs)
For me, this was a fairly easy job. I will remove the headers in a year and send them to Jet-Hot for ceramic coating. Probably could do the same job in half the time now that I know were everything is. Was it worth saving the $200-300 to have someone else do it, you bet. But for me, it's not the money, it's the fact that I get to know the car better and personal satisfaction.
Pictures of the project can be found <title>New Page 1</title><base target="_blank"></head><body><a href="http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291005761">here</a></p>
------------------
1994 Green-black roof/tan, 5 speed
Do you know of another Green-Black roof NSX?? Please email me if you do.
[This message has been edited by Litesokneecough (edited 16 December 2002).]
.. you will need to find heat resistant connectors/wire or splices to prevent melting....
