Low idle--Stalling Help!

[hammer_152131]

I've got a 96 nsxt with CTSC, exhaust etc.. Everything was fine until about a month ago. The car would stall or couldn't keep idle rpm when the AC was on when I pressed the clutch down (whether I was at 5mph or 35 mph). I went through the archives and found it could have been:

1. Need more water
2. throttle body needs cleaned.
3. reset base idle
4. reset computer
5. need new o2 sensors.

I've done 1 and 2. And the problem is still there. Before I take this to the dealer and pay them a couple of hundred dollars just to say "Hi" to me, I was hoping that someone can give me other things to try. I will probably try 3 and 4 tomorrow...

Thanks in advance

 

[kpond]

Sounds like it could be some kind of vacuum leak. Do a good visual inspection of all vacuum lines you can find, etc.

It could be an O2 sensor, however, I think that in most cases you would see a fault code (ECU light) if this were the case.

There is a idle adjustment screw on the throttle body. You may need to drill or pry off the cover before you can get to it.

I guess the real question is what changed? It seems like adjusting the idle may me masking some other problem.

 

[hammer_152131]

Nothing really changed except the weather. Actually, I was having some problems with the battery.

The cable that connects to the alternator broke off and drained the battery. The battery seems like it's okay now. Would a weak battery cause that problem?

Well, it should be at least recharged by now..

thanks again

 

[Diveboy]

Hey there. I had the same kind of problem. They found out it was a vaccum hose that was cracked on the inside of a bend.

The ideal still bounce around some. They told me to get that fixed I need to replace the Fast Idle valve and the Electronic Air Control Valve. So you might also check these too. The teck cleaned and adjusted them about as good as he can but he said they still need to be replaced.

If so the acura shop said Fast Idle valve $186 and Electronic Air Control Valve for $429.

Tim at hondaworld Fast Idel valve $72 and the Electronic Air Control Valve for $213.

Hope this helps.

Jim

 

[Attitude Adjuster]

Originally posted by hammer_152131:
I've got a 96 nsxt with CTSC, exhaust etc.. Everything was fine until about a month ago. The car would stall or couldn't keep idle rpm when the AC was on when I pressed the clutch down (whether I was at 5mph or 35 mph). I went through the archives and found it could have been:

1. Need more water
2. throttle body needs cleaned.
3. reset base idle
4. reset computer
5. need new o2 sensors.

I've done 1 and 2. And the problem is still there. Before I take this to the dealer and pay them a couple of hundred dollars just to say "Hi" to me, I was hoping that someone can give me other things to try. I will probably try 3 and 4 tomorrow...

Thanks in advance

How do you adjust the idle on the Throttle Body?

TIA,



------------------
Kenji Ligon
91 Red CTSC NSX

 

[Diveboy]

Hey there. I had the same kind of problem. They found out it was a vaccum hose that was cracked on the inside of a bend.

The ideal still bounce around some. They told me to get that fixed I need to replace the Fast Idle valve and the Electronic Air Control Valve. So you might also check these too. The teck cleaned and adjusted them about as good as he can but he said they still need to be replaced.

If so the acura shop said Fast Idle valve $186 and Electronic Air Control Valve for $429.

Tim at hondaworld Fast Idel valve $72 and the Electronic Air Control Valve for $213.

Hope this helps.

Jim

 

[pixelhaus]

Resetting computer?

sorry to resurrect such an old thread, but i had a similar occurence. my battery totally died and since the car has not been idling properly. do i need to reset the computer? thanks!

 

[Tantheman]

Any chance the exhaust aftermarket upgrade had anything to do with the idle problem?

Tan

 

[pixelhaus]

exhaust

tan, i don't think so, since it just happened when my battery died. i noticed the same thing happened to the starter of this thread and he experienced the same problems. when i had the old battery in (completely dead and wouldn't hold charge) it stalled almost immediately after i came to a stop. now that i have a new battery it fluctuates from about 700 rpm to 100 rpm and sometimes dies. prior to the battery dying, it ran and idled fine.

i can't seem to find the steps in resetting the computer. can someone tell me or point me to the right direction?

does it involve pulling the clock fuse and disconnecting the battery or something like that?

thanks!

 

[caz-nsx]

pixelhaus,

Yes, In the front remove the clock fuse for at least 15 seconds. Re-install and start it up. I have done this a couple times since I have been having engine hesitation problems. The reset has not helped my situation. I also have a fluctuation at idle until it warms up, then it is solid 750. My hesitation is only below 4000 rpms, random in nature, ie: not always at the same rpm and not all the time.

John

 

[hlweyl]

sounds to me like classic behavior when the alternator has gone bad. I don't know how easy they are to take out, but most parts stores can test the alternator for free.

The dying alt would also explain the battery issue also.

 

[Briank]

Idle problem thread

http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19556&highlight=idle+setting+base


The EACV (Electronic Air Control Valve) controls the idle. Setting the idle speed per the procedure in 11-84 just sets minimum air bypass to get the 650 +- 50 RPM with the EACV disconnected. The actual active control is done by the EACV which is controlled by the computer to get the 800 +- 50. which is not adjustable and will even cause a check engine light if not working properly.
If you notice once you reconnect the EACV there is no futher adjustment. 11-85

http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Reference/1991_svcman/1991_svcman.htm

Briank

 

[hammer_152131]

Fixed my problem

I should have posted this a while back.. sorry about the delay..


I had taken my car to every local mechanic that i knew.. the local guys who work on ferrari's, porsches, exotics, etc... even the acura dealer..

they couldn't figure it out.


and went through the archives more... and then after spending hundreds of dollars on "diagnostics tests" I took a gamble and bought some engine cleaner and sprayed it in the throttle body and everything works GREAT!!!!!!!!!

It took me about 30 seconds and about $3.50 of engine cleaner and the problem went away...

p.s. I did the suggestion by Mark B. by spraying it in on the down-RPM....

Hope this helps...

 

[Black&Tan97Tnewportbeach]

Yep. nuthin like the Ol' spray! I thought my engine was about to just kick the bucket it was running so crappy and I had to feather the throttle at every red light! Then I gave it a blast out and it works like a charm. I think my turbo leaks oil in the compressor side or maybe even exhaust pushes through from the turbine somehow. Anyway, with forced induction the spray seems like a good idea to have on hand. I douche mine out every 2 weeks or so. I have it down to a science, it's not even really a hassle anymore!

 

[pixelhaus]

thanks

thanks everyone. i guess i have a lot of options to try out. i have a meeting tomorrow which requires me to drive the car about 2hrs each way. i hope i can get it working before then! maybe i'll run to firestone or something to get the alternator tested and pick up some throttle body cleaner.

thanks!

 

[Black&Tan97Tnewportbeach]

Yeah Bro, its any easy trick. Just remove whatever you got bolted on to the throttle body to expose the opening. PLace a rag under and in front of the opening. Hold the butterfly all the way open and blast it out real good. I usually move the butterfly a little also and keep spraying . You probably will notice some black\grey dark residue leaking out and dripping onto the rag. Just give it a REAL thorough dousing and wait 5 minutes like it says on the can. Then crank her up, it usually takes a couple tries with a little gas pedal tapping then she ought to kick over and be fine!! Good Luck!!