Magnet Clearence in doors

[Ogs Rex]

Hey All,

I wanted to finalize the sound system in my car and I have a few questions...

How is the magnet clearence in our doors?

In the past I have had experience where certain speakers magnets are too big and it will not clear the window...

I am thinking of using SOS speaker panels and I just wanted to check and see if you guys have had issues and what speakers have you commonly used?

FYI I am hoping to use FOCAL K2P Series for my car or something similar...

Ive been out of the 12v industry for sometime so not quite sure whats good out there these days...

Any feedback is appreciated...

Thanks in advanced...

Jeff

 

[sylcurt]

I just did mine over the winter.....used a EQ/line driver from the OEM Head Unit , then from there into the Alpine PDX5 amp. (which I am very impressed with) I am running one 10" sub inthe Angus box (a pioneer IB Flat) along with Focal Components in the door. I made my own mounts for the door speaker, and did have to build them out quite a ways to clear the magnet...at first it seemed like I was protruding out a long way, but there is still a lot of clearance to the grille, when I put the panel back on. I did some experimenting with the tweeter placement and found that I liked it the best right next to the woofer in the door, mounted just forward of it, and angled back towards the seating area. It blows through the OEM Grille no problem. Highs are nice, but not "in your face", and imaging is very good. The EQ acts as a X-over with full adjustments for the sub (X-over point, and level) along with a 7 band EQ . It also has the Aux input which is a simple way to integrate my Ipod.

I also added a set of rear speakers in the corner panels about halfway up. I used a 4" Boston Accoustics set, but disconnected the tweeter in it, so I would not mess up imaging from the front speakers. They are set on the amp to be just barely heard....its very subtle, but does fill in the void of sound from behind you nicely. OVerall I am very happy with imaging, bass output, and overall sound quality. Not going to overshadow the SUV's with 6 -15" subs, and a gazillion amps...but for a very simple system, it kicks butt...as I said, I can not beleive the power available fromthe PDX 5 amp....and very compact as well....

Sorry for the long answer to your question of clearance...but as I said, I had to build mine out at least 1" to get the clearance I needed from the windows.

 

[etang789]

I just did mine over the winter.....used a EQ/line driver from the OEM Head Unit , then from there into the Alpine PDX5 amp. (which I am very impressed with) I am running one 10" sub inthe Angus box (a pioneer IB Flat) along with Focal Components in the door. I made my own mounts for the door speaker, and did have to build them out quite a ways to clear the magnet...at first it seemed like I was protruding out a long way, but there is still a lot of clearance to the grille, when I put the panel back on. I did some experimenting with the tweeter placement and found that I liked it the best right next to the woofer in the door, mounted just forward of it, and angled back towards the seating area. It blows through the OEM Grille no problem. Highs are nice, but not "in your face", and imaging is very good. The EQ acts as a X-over with full adjustments for the sub (X-over point, and level) along with a 7 band EQ . It also has the Aux input which is a simple way to integrate my Ipod.

I also added a set of rear speakers in the corner panels about halfway up. I used a 4" Boston Accoustics set, but disconnected the tweeter in it, so I would not mess up imaging from the front speakers. They are set on the amp to be just barely heard....its very subtle, but does fill in the void of sound from behind you nicely. OVerall I am very happy with imaging, bass output, and overall sound quality. Not going to overshadow the SUV's with 6 -15" subs, and a gazillion amps...but for a very simple system, it kicks butt...as I said, I can not beleive the power available fromthe PDX 5 amp....and very compact as well....

Sorry for the long answer to your question of clearance...but as I said, I had to build mine out at least 1" to get the clearance I needed from the windows.

I wonder what is the max you can build out before you hit the door panel? I would assume if the speaker is closer to the speaker grill it would sound better?

 

[angus]

I built mine out a little, what I did was build an MDF bafffle for the speaker, then I used some duraglass to mold onto the door and put the baffle on that, since the door is irregularly shaped I liked this solution best, it also gets the speaker closer to the grill but I doubt that made much difference.

 

[Ogs Rex]

I built mine out a little, what I did was build an MDF bafffle for the speaker, then I used some duraglass to mold onto the door and put the baffle on that, since the door is irregularly shaped I liked this solution best, it also gets the speaker closer to the grill but I doubt that made much difference.

Thanks for the reply guys...

I really wonder how much clearence we can get here...

Is it even worth it to get the SOS Door Panels or just go custom all the way...

BTW Sylcurt which Focal Component are you using???

Thanks in advanced...

 

[sylcurt]

I went with the Focal Polyglass 165VB. I auditioned them, and liked them, especially knowing I would be running a sub. If not, I might have gone with something that had more bottom end. In a different vehicle I might have stepped up a notch in the Focal line, but realistically, with roof off (which is almost always how I drive it) and significant sound from the engine, there was no need to spend more money.

I did do a pretty detailed job of sound deadener throughout the inside of the door skin, as well as door panel itself...ya, a bit of weight, but I am a believer in sound deadener. Also did a lot on the floor inside the entire cabin.

One thing I liked was a relatively small crossover, which is mounted behind door panel. It is not as elaborate as some , but again, for the same reasons I mentioned above, there was no need to go overboard in the NSX. Give them a listen somewhere and I think you will enjoy them.

Regarding mounting, when the Bose assembly is removed, it leaves the hole in the door and some irregular shaped metal adjacent to it, in more or less a square shape, with a flat surface surrounding the door opening. I found the easiest thing was to make my "first layer" in a shape, close to a square, which set perfectly in the opening left by the absence of the Bose assembly.
Then, I made a second layer in the more traditional circular shape to mount the speaker on. Total build out from the door metal is close to 1.25" I would say, maybe slightly less. I also shaped it to have a small area to mount the tweeter on, that when aimed upwards using the Focal angle mount, lines up perfectly through the OEM door grille to your ears. I played around with tweeter placement alot and this truly was what I felt was the best option for sound and imaging, and "not in your face" sound. I removed the speaker grille first to ensure a clear line through the grille area. Very happy with sound.

 

[Ogs Rex]

Thanks for the update...

I actually have a set of polyglass comps in my garage...

But i dont plan on going with a sub so I am thinking about if i want beefier midbass...

Thanks again for the feedback...

 

[angus]

I went with the Focal Polyglass 165VB. I auditioned them, and liked them, especially knowing I would be running a sub. If not, I might have gone with something that had more bottom end. In a different vehicle I might have stepped up a notch in the Focal line, but realistically, with roof off (which is almost always how I drive it) and significant sound from the engine, there was no need to spend more money.

I did do a pretty detailed job of sound deadener throughout the inside of the door skin, as well as door panel itself...ya, a bit of weight, but I am a believer in sound deadener. Also did a lot on the floor inside the entire cabin.

One thing I liked was a relatively small crossover, which is mounted behind door panel. It is not as elaborate as some , but again, for the same reasons I mentioned above, there was no need to go overboard in the NSX. Give them a listen somewhere and I think you will enjoy them.

Regarding mounting, when the Bose assembly is removed, it leaves the hole in the door and some irregular shaped metal adjacent to it, in more or less a square shape, with a flat surface surrounding the door opening. I found the easiest thing was to make my "first layer" in a shape, close to a square, which set perfectly in the opening left by the absence of the Bose assembly.
Then, I made a second layer in the more traditional circular shape to mount the speaker on. Total build out from the door metal is close to 1.25" I would say, maybe slightly less. I also shaped it to have a small area to mount the tweeter on, that when aimed upwards using the Focal angle mount, lines up perfectly through the OEM door grille to your ears. I played around with tweeter placement alot and this truly was what I felt was the best option for sound and imaging, and "not in your face" sound. I removed the speaker grille first to ensure a clear line through the grille area. Very happy with sound.

Curt, I agree with everything you said - great install - except the garbage vinyl butt conectors

Just bugging you - sort of...

 

[jorligan]

I have the Focal K2P in the doors without any issues. I also used alot of sound deadener but I still added a subwoofer. I made a VERY small subwoofer using the SWS-8 and replaced the stock subwoofer. Actually gain in passenger foot room. Looking at makng 2 SWS-6 subwoofers and mounting them behind the seats.

 

[sylcurt]

Curt, I agree with everything you said - great install - except the garbage vinyl butt conectors

Just bugging you - sort of...

I deserve that....I had used the connectors while I was trying different mounting positions for the tweeter, and when I settled on what I had, I was getting too lazy to solder and heat shrink....I find I am getting much lazier in my old age....lol....

 

[ScienceofSpeed]

Consider not using MDF. Long term, the MDF begins to disintegrate with moisture. The panels we produce is a lightweight air-injected polyurethane that is weather resistant. We haven't yet run into any 6.5" drivers that had a clearance problem.

http://www.scienceofspeed.com/produ...ed/ProFormance_Audiophile/door_speaker_panel/

-- Chris