Great thread Mike and greater car, keep the updates coming.
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My Dream in Blue
- Thread starter comtec
- Start date
Hey guys,
I bet you haven't seen one of these before. I made this yesterday :biggrin:.
Mike
Clear Anodized Aluminum NSX-R engine cover prop
weight is a whopping 1.55oz
I modified this bender a few years ago for making hood and e-cover props.
I bet you haven't seen one of these before. I made this yesterday :biggrin:.
Mike
Clear Anodized Aluminum NSX-R engine cover prop
weight is a whopping 1.55oz
I modified this bender a few years ago for making hood and e-cover props.
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Hey guys,
Look what was waiting for me at the hotel today.
When we installed the sc we found out i was missing the spacers for the fuel rails. Only option we had at the time was to use plastic spacers. When i went to my Dad's house for Thanksgiving i was telling him about the install and the spacers so he fired up his lathe and made these for me :smile:.
And when i told him i needed to get a pump to change the oil he gave me this very cool antique brass extractor. It uses leather instead of rubber for the seals.
Mike
Look what was waiting for me at the hotel today.
When we installed the sc we found out i was missing the spacers for the fuel rails. Only option we had at the time was to use plastic spacers. When i went to my Dad's house for Thanksgiving i was telling him about the install and the spacers so he fired up his lathe and made these for me :smile:.
And when i told him i needed to get a pump to change the oil he gave me this very cool antique brass extractor. It uses leather instead of rubber for the seals.
Mike
Whipple for 3.2
Low boost pulley (6lbs)
AEM FI/C
Injectors (RC SL9-0550 550cc)
OEM FPR
OEM fuel pump
Pride V2
Stock CATs
Ran out of fuel pump just over 7k rpm
Mike
Low boost pulley (6lbs)
AEM FI/C
Injectors (RC SL9-0550 550cc)
OEM FPR
OEM fuel pump
Pride V2
Stock CATs
Ran out of fuel pump just over 7k rpm
Mike
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Why the R cover doesn't fit the NSX-T.
Lots of people have asked that over the years including myself but we never got a exact reason from any of the vendors. I looked this over after receiving my cover and this is what i have found.
Some have said that the NSX-T has a raised area on the firewall that keeps it from working but if you look at the picture below you will see that it actually goes lower on the outsides then the coupe which makes it look raised. Pay attention to how low it drops down from the bottom of the rear window because on the coupe it stays near the bottom.
The difference is how far the hinge area of the NSX-T extends toward the rear of the car. The distance from the hinge bolts to the seal.
This puts the Z bar support of the R engine cover directly over the NSX-T seal location instead of beside it like the coupe when the cover is down. Some are saying they give information on cutting to modify the R cover but that would only work if you cut a section from the Z bar support on both sides. I wouldn't suggest that since it will take the rigidity from the cover and make it more flimsy. I believe this would be most noticable when propped up by one side, the other may sag.
The location causing the problem is shown below. If the Z bar support for the R cover is the red lines you can see where they will contact at the arrows. Past the drop doesn't matter.
Here you can see with about 6mm spacers that they still contact enough to not allow the cover to sit flush and this is already to high for the correct look when down. I believe this was with the seal removed so it was contacting the metal.
Mike
Lots of people have asked that over the years including myself but we never got a exact reason from any of the vendors. I looked this over after receiving my cover and this is what i have found.
Some have said that the NSX-T has a raised area on the firewall that keeps it from working but if you look at the picture below you will see that it actually goes lower on the outsides then the coupe which makes it look raised. Pay attention to how low it drops down from the bottom of the rear window because on the coupe it stays near the bottom.
The difference is how far the hinge area of the NSX-T extends toward the rear of the car. The distance from the hinge bolts to the seal.
This puts the Z bar support of the R engine cover directly over the NSX-T seal location instead of beside it like the coupe when the cover is down. Some are saying they give information on cutting to modify the R cover but that would only work if you cut a section from the Z bar support on both sides. I wouldn't suggest that since it will take the rigidity from the cover and make it more flimsy. I believe this would be most noticable when propped up by one side, the other may sag.
The location causing the problem is shown below. If the Z bar support for the R cover is the red lines you can see where they will contact at the arrows. Past the drop doesn't matter.
Here you can see with about 6mm spacers that they still contact enough to not allow the cover to sit flush and this is already to high for the correct look when down. I believe this was with the seal removed so it was contacting the metal.
Mike
Our dads are similar, mine's got all the biz for metal work, woodwork, computers.
Love the work, good stuff.
AJ
Got the car back from the shop. Had the hood painted again to get a better match and they did a good job. Took a lot of work to get the DF hood to look good with paint. The mold left places in the hood that when painted looked like dents and they didn't get them all out the first time but looks good now.
Finally installed the DF wing. The sides are berlina black and the center exposed CF.
Installed the CF diffuser
Installed the NSX-R front bumper undertray and the battery undertray.
Installed the NSX-R hood duct
Finally installed the DF wing. The sides are berlina black and the center exposed CF.
Installed the CF diffuser
Installed the NSX-R front bumper undertray and the battery undertray.
Installed the NSX-R hood duct
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Hi,
love it Mike....
and as socalx mentioned in another thread, you only need coupe hingues and spacers to fit a NSX-R engine cover (or replica) into your targa :wink:
Nuno
love it Mike....
and as socalx mentioned in another thread, you only need coupe hingues and spacers to fit a NSX-R engine cover (or replica) into your targa :wink:
Nuno
Can't wait to see in person one day, Mike!
- Joined
- 4 January 2008
- Messages
- 177
great build thread!
Hey Mike, I bought a used CF hood as well. It's JDM but I forget which manufacturer. It has some slight waves like you mentioned. Do you know what they did to smooth that out? Just a lot of finish bondo and block sanding?
your builds are one of my favorites!
your builds are one of my favorites!
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I also love this car! Well done!
Mike's car is so amazing in person, there is no words to describe it. Keep those amazing mods coming!
Dom
Dom
Thanks so much everyone! :smile:
@UnhuZ
Hi Nuno, please look at post #132 for R cover on a targa.
@RYU
I will ask the shop and let you know.
@DragonBallZ
Dom, wish you could have made it to C&C last week. Hopefully my next time in.
Mike
@UnhuZ
Hi Nuno, please look at post #132 for R cover on a targa.
@RYU
I will ask the shop and let you know.
@DragonBallZ
Dom, wish you could have made it to C&C last week. Hopefully my next time in.
Mike
Hi Mike,
then i'm lost to how Anil and socalx had the OEM one in their Targas.... socalx said recentrly in SOS thread that it would only need coupe hingues and spacers, nothing more.
I'm puzzled here.
Nuno
then i'm lost to how Anil and socalx had the OEM one in their Targas.... socalx said recentrly in SOS thread that it would only need coupe hingues and spacers, nothing more.
I'm puzzled here.
Nuno
Nuno,
You could install it with thick enough spacers but it would sit at an angle, higher near the window and lower toward the rear. When viewed from the side there is a gap between the body and seal on the sides and the front sits too high on the window. It might look ok with the hatch down but with hatch raised it looks bad.
Hope you and the family are doing well my friend.
Mike
You could install it with thick enough spacers but it would sit at an angle, higher near the window and lower toward the rear. When viewed from the side there is a gap between the body and seal on the sides and the front sits too high on the window. It might look ok with the hatch down but with hatch raised it looks bad.
Hope you and the family are doing well my friend.
Mike
Thank you very much, i really appreciate that!
Mike
:smile:
:smile:
Finally got a few pictures with the emblem mounted on the SC.
What do you guys think?
Mike
:smile:
:smile:
Finally got a few pictures with the emblem mounted on the SC.
What do you guys think?
I like pictures of your wheels more :biggrin:
Cars doing great but i still don't get to see it very much. Starts right up every time. Finally got around to installing the aluminum fuel rail spacers, the nylon worked pretty well :redface:. The Honda badge is staying on the SC, thought it would get too hot but the SC stays cool to the touch.
Pics from last trip home.
Mike
Pics from last trip home.
Mike
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- Joined
- 19 March 2003
- Messages
- 3,442
Cars doing great but i still don't get to see it very much. Starts right up every time. Finally got around to installing the aluminum fuel rail spacers, the nylon worked pretty well :redface:. The Honda badge is staying on the SC, thought it would get too hot but the SC stays cool to the touch.
Pics from last trip home.
Mike
Excellent mod choices!!! I am glad you had the whole top of the hood painted instead of the portion behind the open vent exposed.
