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New Autorotor CTSC checklist thread

DDozier said:
The Comptech FPR is a different type than the AEM unit, it will work, but it is another variable to tune around, the AEM FPR offers a more linear 1:1 progressive rate, while the Comptech unit depending on the spring installed, the size of the calibration washer and an air bleed setting will ramp at a higher rate. More info on how the Comptech FPR works is loacted here: http://www.comptechusa.com/store/media/instructions/FuelPreReg2005.pdf

When adding the AEM the AEM FPR is not required, the stock OEM FPR can be reinstalled into the car and used, I think the stock unit is a 1:1 as well, some issues have been raised as to the OEM FPR being overwelmed by an aftermarket HP fuel pump such as the Walbro 255, some have been using the OEM unit but most put in the AEM FPR or comparable unit. The AEM offers easy adjustability and a choice of return orifices to match the pump volume.

If the fuel pump can supply the fuel the use of the Comptech FPR with the AEM may allow you to get away with a smaller injector, but most would agree that an injector is better to be a little oversized than undersized, and if you are replacing the injectors anyway just get the correct size for the HP you intend to make.

Most are running RC 550cc injectors for highboost CTSC setups

Dave
Click to expand...

Dave,
Thanks for the information, it has saved me a lot of research time. The AEM FPR seems like a good addition given its relative cost when compared to that of the overall system.

Bob
 
SaberX said:
Just FYI, I've been updating the top of this thread to be as accurate as I can with all the great information you guys have been giving me. I know there is no Autorotor CTSC "gospel" - but hopefully it will give a good starting point for people in the future and prevent everyone from answering the same questions a million times. :cool:
Click to expand...


Just thaught of one more thing for the transition to high boost and AEM, if the Walbro is installed the Comptech FPRU (boost-a-pump) will be removed as well as the factory fuel pump resistor (located on the passenger side fire wall, mounted to the cross brace, the fuel resistor harness will need to be shorted for the fuel pump to opperate), this will allow the fuel pump to run at 12vdc all the time and at a constant rate of fuel delivery. Makes tuning the AEM a little easier with less variables in fuel delivery to tune arround.

Dave
 
So, not to get ahead of myself here since I don't even have my CTSC yet. But from a cash standpoint, what are we talking about to go from a "stock" CTSC 6lb kit to the Hi-boost kit. From parts to install - total out of pocket. I just want to know just in case I get addicted to the "go fast crack pipe". :wink:
 
SaberX said:
So, not to get ahead of myself here since I don't even have my CTSC yet. But from a cash standpoint, what are we talking about to go from a "stock" CTSC 6lb kit to the Hi-boost kit. From parts to install - total out of pocket. I just want to know just in case I get addicted to the "go fast crack pipe". :wink:
Click to expand...

Oh you will my friend.

Unless other wise noted the parts are for OBDI cars, check your local listings for changes between OBDII systems.

PARTS:
AEM ECU 301002 - aprox 1600.00
If you are OBDII you will need DynoMike's wire harness and tune. $?
AEM FPR 25303R - aprox 190.00
AEM Dual UEGO 30-2300 - aprox 480.00
AEM Serial Gauge 304300 (optional but helpfull) - aprox 300.00
AEM Fuel Pressure Sensor 302130100 (optional but helpfull) - 155.00
AEM Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor 302050 (optional but helpfull) - 160.00
AEM Oil/Coolant Temp Sensor 302011 (optional but helpfull)(drill and tap your oil plug for 3/8" pipe thread and you do not have to remove the oil pan to add this sensor) - 37.00
Walbro 255HP fuel pump FPH006 - aprox 120.00
RC Engineering 550cc injectors - aprox 600.00
Comptech Pulley - aprox 100.00 ? I am not sure on the price for this one as the Autorotor uses a different pulley than the Whipple.

LABOR:
that is hard one for me, maybe Wheelman can help here, I did my install myself and as a result have no money out of pocket for install, and estimating time to do each one will be hard as well as I removed everthing inside the car except for the dash to do my install/cleanup. Gauge placement will also have alot to do with install labor, if you do a pillar pod labor will be less than if you do a custom center console or other install.

If all you had to do was install the AEM and Dual UEGO that part is easy and the passenger seat & rear firewall trim is all that needs to be removed. Aprox 2-3 hours.
install injectors aprox 2 hours now that the blower does not have to be removed with the new Autorotor
install fuel pump and remove boost-a-pump & Fuel pump resistor aprox 3 hours with a lift, 4-5 hours without if you can do it at all.
I am sure there are things I have forgoten, but unless you live in a town with a well trusted tuner I would say budjet 1500-2000 for a tune if you plan to fly someone in and rent a dyno, and that number may be low.

Hope this helps.

Dave
 
OK I just got a all stock blk/tan '91 with 104k on the clock.

I'm from the Mazda FD crowd and ~500-600 WRHP is just a few mods, single turbo, tuning, and a few $$$ away.

Now I get the NSX is not so easy (for HP freaks) but I love a challenge and have been reading this fourm and searching for all the info I can get.

I am in on the GB for the CTSC, CT headers, CT test pipes, CT airbox/cover, and have an exhaust on the way.

Now in the FD world we use standalone ECUs from a few manufacturers but Power FC is the easiest to tune for a single turbo.

I see most here (or NSXers) use the AEM and thats cool but do you have a good library of start maps for different setups to download?

How about this http://www.scienceofspeed.com/products/engine_performance_products/NSX/ScienceofSpeed/High-Boost-Comptech_SC/

Running the 550 injectors (for 6lb or more I think), and a new fuel pump w/filter would be a good idea.

Now how about the EGR we do need to cool the head but would fresh air not be better? SOS has a block off but what about a vent? http://www.scienceofspeed.com/products/engine_performance_products/NSX/ScienceofSpeed/EGR_block/

A few questions and maybe SOS can help, Thanks, Jeff
 
Labor- about $2500-3500 grand for everything. From CTSC install, AEM, fuel pump, fuel filter, FP gauge in engine bay, tuning, I did the Gruppe M in-dash gauge- keep your eyes on the road in this bad boy anyway. And a couple of others things I can't recall due to alcohol flowing in the blood stream..nothing like a good merlot.
 
How many people have gone beyond the basic support mods for the CTSC hi Boost kit?..I'm talking about beyond I/H/E but with AEM.

I'm planning on a 91 with 70k doing the new CTSC Hi-Boost kit but with the SOS stage B cams with supporting retainers and springs...thinking about rasing red-line to 9k if possibly safe.

Any guestimates of how much power it should produce? and how long the engine will hold up with a good tune?

:confused:
 
Alittleboost said:
How many people have gone beyond the basic support mods for the CTSC hi Boost kit?..I'm talking about beyond I/H/E but with AEM.

I'm planning on a 91 with 70k doing the new CTSC Hi-Boost kit but with the SOS stage B cams with supporting retainers and springs...thinking about rasing red-line to 9k if possibly safe.

Any guestimates of how much power it should produce? and how long the engine will hold up with a good tune?

:confused:
Click to expand...
I'm not sure that raising the redline under hi-boost would be a good idea. The stresses on an engine increase dramatically as rpm increases. Couple that with increased load b/c of high boost, increased intake charge temps and frictional temps from 9k rpm. I think you're going to be hard pressed to make power safely or reliably in these conditions under full boost to 9k rpm with just minimal top end engine work.
 
Alittleboost said:
How many people have gone beyond the basic support mods for the CTSC hi Boost kit?..I'm talking about beyond I/H/E but with AEM.

I'm planning on a 91 with 70k doing the new CTSC Hi-Boost kit but with the SOS stage B cams with supporting retainers and springs...thinking about rasing red-line to 9k if possibly safe.

Any guestimates of how much power it should produce? and how long the engine will hold up with a good tune?

:confused:
Click to expand...

I would call Chris at SOS and tell him what you want to do, then call Mike at Factor X, then call GJ at Performance Autoworks, then call Mike at Autowave. If four out of four think it is a good idea then do it, otherwise I would stay away from anything north of 8200 RPM with a high boost setup and no intercooler. I'm guessing here, but a full bottom end rebuild as well as major head work would be needed to make this safe. When I was looking into a monster N/A setup one of the goals was 9000 RPM, and the dolars it took to pick up 1000 RPM was more than I was willing to spend so I went for the CTSC/AEM/High Boost. Having said that I have seen a few AEM maps with redline pushed up to 8500 RPM, I am just not sure if I would do that with my engine.

I find myself short shifting at about 7500rpm, not because I have to but by 7500 in third gear you are hauling ass.:cool:

Best of luck and after you make the calls let us know what the other guys said.

Dave
 
Re: New Auto rotor CTSC checklist thread

DDozier said:
I am surprised that the instruction do not say verify fuel pressure and adjust as needed to be in spec. Maybe this is being done prior to shipping on a bench to make the kit more plug-n-play, but the instructions do not say take your car to a dyno and check for proper AFR, and we all know how important that is to do. This is just part of what a professional install should include, if you make a change to the fuel system you should verify the integrity of the system after you made the changes, check the fuel presure at idle and on boost to make sure it is within spec. Then take your car to a dyno and have the AFR checked and verified to be safe.

Are these extra steps needed for the car to run, NO. Are they a good idea to make sure the car is operating as designed, you will have to decide that.

Dave
Click to expand...


Dave, I have read all your posts to this thread and have nothing to say but : way to go! you have certainly been doing your homework, KUDO'S
Best Regards David
 
Re: New Auto rotor CTSC checklist thread

BadCarma said:
Dave, I have read all your posts to this thread and have nothing to say but : way to go! you have certainly been doing your homework, KUDO'S
Best Regards David
Click to expand...


Thanks, rite back at ya.

I know if I ever want to make my car laugh, I will be calling you.

Dave
 
DDozier said:
I find myself short shifting at about 7500rpm, not because I have to but by 7500 in third gear you are hauling ass.:cool: .

Dave
Click to expand...

I find myself often short shifting at about 6500RPM for the same reason.
 
NetViper said:
I find myself often short shifting at about 6500RPM for the same reason.
Click to expand...

Woosey boy, I was afraid the big boys would make fun of me for the 7500 RPM thing, you only go to 6500 RPM. :biggrin: :tongue: :biggrin:

Life for me is much better now.:cool:

Dave
 
DDozier said:
Woosey boy, I was afraid the big boys would make fun of me for the 7500 RPM thing, you only go to 6500 RPM. :biggrin: :tongue: :biggrin:

Life for me is much better now.:cool:

Dave
Click to expand...

Well, the turbo guys will probably chime in a say they shift at 5500 RPM. :)
 
I normally shift before V-Tech unless there is a reason for the "jump to light speed". :wink:

The eternal argument:
"Mr Scott; I need more power":biggrin: :cool:
"but Captain; she won't hold together":eek: :rolleyes:

Bob
 
Hey Autorotor Guys, If you have one of the new ACM units can you look at the new jumper harness at the ECU and note the pin numbers for the wire connections from the ACM to the Factory ECU, I looked at the instructions for the kit and can not tell for sure the pin numbers they are connecting to, looks like D17 for MAP sensor and the A? pins look like power and ground for the ACM. If you could snap a picture of the ACM in the car showing the harness and the module I can figure it out as well.

Thank you,

Dave
 
For those of you with CTSC/BBSC/FX400 etc. Did you added additional special equipment coverage to protect your investments? Or have agreed value policy?

I am currently insured with AAA, I stopped by AAA office and talked to the insurance agent this afternoon regarding adding special equipment insurance to my policy. They quoted $106 over my current premium per year for the CTSC, assuming it cost $8900. They require doucments, receipts, and they need to see the car and take pictures of the CTSC installed on the car. The insurance agent also mentioned he want a ride:smile:

Last and not least, what kind of boost gauge are you using, mechanical vs electronical boost gauges?
 
nsxsupra said:
The insurance agent also mentioned he want a ride:smile:
Click to expand...


Dude, I would seriously consider you don't show your insurance agent what 350hp feels like. I can only think that would lead to bad things. Especially since there is really no way to show off that kinda power without breaking some kind of law. :wink:
 
SaberX said:
Dude, I would seriously consider you don't show your insurance agent what 350hp feels like. I can only think that would lead to bad things. Especially since there is really no way to show off that kinda power without breaking some kind of law. :wink:
Click to expand...
He was just joking around :smile:, he also own a fast car (STI). I doubt they are even allowed to ride in customer's cars during office hours. Showing the engine bay with CTSC installed is required for the coverage though.
 
nsxsupra said:
For those of you with CTSC/BBSC/FX400 etc. Did you added additional special equipment coverage to protect your investments? Or have agreed value policy?

May I ask what does the special equipment addemdum covers? Would it cover mechanic failure?
Click to expand...
 
NSXROC said:
May I ask what does the special equipment addemdum covers? Would it cover mechanic failure?
Click to expand...
It is insurance not warranty lol
The coverage only cover damage from accidents, thief, etc. One of the NSX owner on prime had the BBSC NSX stolen and totaled last year, things happens, imho better safe than sorry.

NSXROC said:
Would it cover mechanic failure?
Click to expand...
Obviously not, just as your full coverage auto insurance does not cover your timing belt failure, or other kind of mechanical failure etc.
 

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