No more camber at front?!!

[MetalSpikeRacing]

Hey guys?
A few days ago I took my car to set the alignment , I wanted to get 1.5 degrees at the front but only one side would of do it , the other side wouldn't go more than .7 degrees?!?!.

When the guy tried to turn the camber bolt it would to go to .7 and the went back down to 0 and on that cicle I wouldn't go more than .7.

What do I do to fix this problem? Both sides are set to .7degrees at this moment.

-MSR

 

[KooLaid]

install these
http://daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog/index_browse_part.cfm?focus=1300

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...o=DR&its=S%2BI%2BSS&itu=SI%2BISS%2BUCI&otn=12

or run wider front tires and you'll need less camber.

 

[FXMDBilly]

What's your ride height? What suspension do you run?

 

[MetalSpikeRacing]

ride night would be about 1 to 1.5 inches between fender and tire, tires are 17/215/40 on a 17x8 +44 wheel.

Why the one side does go to 1.5 and other one not?? I only want the 1.5!

 

[R13]

Bumping this thread because I just ran into the exact same problem. I know my car has taken a knock (slow speed to the left front bumper mount area, the tow-hook specifically) at some point in its history (i.e. not me) so that was suspected.

Do you know if your car might have any deformation anywhere? I've seen no other ill effects and the car is square as close as I can measure but this made me think.

But yeah, the passenger side could be adjusted to about 1.5 degrees, but the driver's side is maxed out at ~.7

Did you ever find a way around this issue or did you go with the bushings?

 

[MetalSpikeRacing]

Car was never hit, I am running the car the same way as the day I posted it this threat.

I will be taking the car to correct my rear alignment for the new tires, the rear toe killed the big time. while there I will see if they adjust the front again.

-MSR

 

[R13]

I'm going to take a closer look at all of the bushings, arms, etc. tomorrow to see if I can spot anything. I just left it at .7/ side in the front for now.

Knowing the pretty slight extent of the damage, I was having a hard time believing that was the culprit. Now, a worn bushing would not surprise me at all on this car.

 

[MetalSpikeRacing]

I was thinking on installing this:http://daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog...cfm?focus=1300

But Mark told me that they are for hardcore race cars only, because the amount of static camber they add.

If someone made them with less static camber, They would sell pretty good......

-MSR

 

[CL65 Captain]

I was thinking on installing this:http://daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog...cfm?focus=1300

But Mark told me that they are for hardcore race cars only, because the amount of static camber they add.

If someone made them with less static camber, They would sell pretty good......

-MSR

I have those. Currently running 3 degs in the front. I can go anywhere from 0.7 to 3.2 with them setup on my car. So at the very end of the spectrum you can almost get back to OEM spec.

The REAL question is why can't you get more camber on the right? You should be able to get -1.5 to -1.7.

 

[FogCityNSX]

Bad ball joints or wheel bearings?

Can't recall the front end camber adjustment off the top of my head but if it is like the rear..............Worn out eccentric bolt? Or hogged out hole where the eccentric bolt goes in?

 

[R13]

I think maybe I just had an issue of a mechanic that didn't know what he was looking at. If the camber change is dictated by the washer portion, as opposed the shaft of the bolt (as it is on most cars) then it looks like my driver's side is adjusted almost all the way IN (i.e. towards positive camber).

If so, then I'm going to file this under "not a problem" and my mechanic will have a learning experience .

Here are pictures of the adjustment bolts/cams (taken from the front of the car)


Driver's side (theoretical "problem" side): Is this max negative camber, or max positive camber?

Passenger's side:

 

[MetalSpikeRacing]

They seem to be facing the correct way, Or do you mean the number 10 on the bolt should be up, instead of upside down, like on the passanger's?

 

[MetalSpikeRacing]

Edit: Nevermind I got you.

Does anyone knows?

-MSR

 

[KyleMo]

Try adjusting the caster at the same time as adjusting the camber. You can actually change the camber with caster as they are somewhat related. That is what I did to get mine to spec and make both sides the same. The caster adjustment is on the front of the lower control arm under the compliance clamp. You will need to loosen the 3 bolts from the bottome and them you can move the essentric with a 5mm allen key to adjust the caster. As you adjsut the caster, you will see the camber change and then you can adjust the camber accordingly. Hopefully this helps.

 

[MetalSpikeRacing]

I have those. Currently running 3 degs in the front. I can go anywhere from 0.7 to 3.2 with them setup on my car. So at the very end of the spectrum you can almost get back to OEM spec.

The REAL question is why can't you get more camber on the right? You should be able to get -1.5 to -1.7.

Wait a minute, so you can go .7 to 3.2??
I havent got them because I was told that static camber would of been huge!!

Did you installed them in certain way? elaborate on the install and adjustments, Please!!

-MSR

 

[R13]

BTW, answering my own question above. The driver's side camber adjuster pictured above is indeed set to "minimum" negative camber (i.e. as close to 0 as possible). If rotated 180 degrees, then it would have more negative camber, likely to the "normal" ~ -1.5 degrees or so.

 

[CL65 Captain]

Wait a minute, so you can go .7 to 3.2??
I havent got them because I was told that static camber would of been huge!!

Did you installed them in certain way? elaborate on the install and adjustments, Please!!

-MSR

I just had my suspension guy install them... they have to be pressed in. No special installation, they are just offset.

 

[R13]

Lol (sort of).

So I may end with some of those offset bushings anyway. Apparently the driver's side adjusting bolt is completely rusted to the bushing sleeve and the bushing is threatening to tear (it's already somewhat worse for wear as it is) before that bolt will turn. I'll probably have to hammer it out (which may also destroy the bushing).

I was surprised that there isn't any type of polyurethane analog for this part from any of the usual vendors (SOS, Dali, etc). I even looked for application specific stuff from prothane or energy suspension and came up empty.

Is there some technical reason that there are no poly' substitutes, or is it mainly the law of small numbers getting in the way of a production run...or am I just looking in the wrong place?

 

[titaniumdave]

R13
You bushings look shot! I have been doing Mono-ball replacements for the bushing, more of a race car application but it works fine on the street. I do these with an offset bushing that allows extra negative camber to be adjusted in if you want. My part also allows you to set the camber at stock spec for those who are not track oriented.

I have not spent much time looking at a poly bushing option, I am sure I can build a kit if there is enough interest. I would need 20 folks on board to get the ball rolling...

Dave

 

[R13]

R13
You bushings look shot! I have been doing Mono-ball replacements for the bushing, more of a race car application but it works fine on the street. I do these with an offset bushing that allows extra negative camber to be adjusted in if you want. My part also allows you to set the camber at stock spec for those who are not track oriented.

I have not spent much time looking at a poly bushing option, I am sure I can build a kit if there is enough interest. I would need 20 folks on board to get the ball rolling...

Dave

Well if anyone was curious what a bushing looks like after 226k miles (~210 of that in the northeast)...there you go.

I was looking for poly' because the car is nearly DD'ed and I gather the life-span of a solid/monoball bushing is a little less due to the effects of road grit and such (?).

I'm having enough trouble extracting the camber bolt as it is...though I learned from another member's mistake and haven't gone wailing on it with a sledge hammer just yet.

 

[titaniumdave]

Yes,
Nothing will last as long as the stock rubber. The big advantage of any aftermarket pivot/bearing is it will be easy to replace the when they do wear out. Poly bushing will probably wear faster than the mono-balls, but they are cheaper and easier to replace.

With the stuck bolt, 'Kroil' is a good penetrating oil, plus I use heat from a propane torch to expand and contract the bolt and joint to break the rust and corrosion loose. Gentle tapping with a hammer can help get the bolt moving.

 

[R13]

Yeah, I'm just going to continue to slather it in PB/Kroil/Liquid Wrench (whichever is handy) and come back to the stuck bolt once I'm ready to replace the bushings.

I'd definitely be interested some poly' bushings if they could be had for measurably less than the brass offset bushings that are currently available. We're still talking about years of life out of any solution, it's just a question of how many years.

 

[MetalSpikeRacing]

R13
You bushings look shot! I have been doing Mono-ball replacements for the bushing, more of a race car application but it works fine on the street. I do these with an offset bushing that allows extra negative camber to be adjusted in if you want. My part also allows you to set the camber at stock spec for those who are not track oriented.

I have not spent much time looking at a poly bushing option, I am sure I can build a kit if there is enough interest. I would need 20 folks on board to get the ball rolling...

Dave

It will give me more camber?

I am in.

Pmin' you.

-MSR


Oh by the way I did my alighment couple days ago, and the most camber we got out of the front was, 1.59 and 1.38
We got rid off the rear toe finally, it was just too much.

-MSR

 

[titaniumdave]

It will give me more camber?

I am in.

Pmin' you.

-MSR


Oh by the way I did my alighment couple days ago, and the most camber we got out of the front was, 1.59 and 1.38
We got rid off the rear toe finally, it was just too much.

-MSR

I have bearing set ups that can increase or decrease camber front or rear. One thing I like about my design is you can reverse any settings back to stock locations, unlike others I have seen.

 

[W]

Add me to the list of those interested in a poly bushing option.