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OEM intake vs k&n

That's odd, I found it very amusing.

mckayla-notimpressed1.jpg
 
Haha! It will always come down to opinion with these intakes which is why I shared it. For people who are NA and may just want to try it for kicks, the whole intake kit is like 150 dollars. I think an acura plastic clip costs about that.
You might just end up liking it and you may not.
Thanks for sharing Thanhnsx.
 
Hi,

From all i read here over the years, i think the best for a most stock NSX is OEM air box with
intake scoop (ex. Downforce)...
i personally use a flat KN filter in the OEM air box, and have a CF scoop

most prefer unifilter... but i don't like foam filters...to much debris can pass and are a pain to clean.

Thanks,
Nuno
 
So you have the Df mugen type intake Davidf?
 
Based on my experience with sound:

oem w/paper filter (too quiet and sounds like any honda with the engine making all the noise)
oem w/K&N drop-in (more aggressive intake noise at throttle, yet still subtle like oem on idle.. strong vacuum hissing noise)
oem w/Comptech Uni (less aggressive than K&N, subtle like oem at idle with vacuum hissing noise)

Gruppe M (very aggressive intake noises upon acceleration, strong vacuum hissing noise on idle)

I was running the Cantrell Scoop with each so take it for what it is. OEM may be superior in theory compared to most aftermarket intakes with maybe Mugen/DF possibly marginally better if any. I simply got tired of always cleaning the K&N/Comptech Uni after several hundred miles and wanted something more aggressive sounding. Part of driving the NSX is seeing it as the whole package of ergonomics, sounds, and driving excitement. I find running just the OEM intake too quiet and boring which is why I decided to stick with the Gruppe M. Might be less HP than stock, but it raises the excitement level for me on a grand scale. Whenever I press the pedal or make down-shifts, it makes me feel as if I was driving something even more special.
 
Based on my experience with sound:

oem w/paper filter (too quiet and sounds like any honda with the engine making all the noise)
oem w/K&N drop-in (more aggressive intake noise at throttle, yet still subtle like oem on idle.. strong vacuum hissing noise)
oem w/Comptech Uni (less aggressive than K&N, subtle like oem at idle with vacuum hissing noise)

Gruppe M (very aggressive intake noises upon acceleration, strong vacuum hissing noise on idle)

I was running the Cantrell Scoop with each so take it for what it is. OEM may be superior in theory compared to most aftermarket intakes with maybe Mugen/DF possibly marginally better if any. I simply got tired of always cleaning the K&N/Comptech Uni after several hundred miles and wanted something more aggressive sounding. Part of driving the NSX is seeing it as the whole package of ergonomics, sounds, and driving excitement. I find running just the OEM intake too quiet and boring which is why I decided to stick with the Gruppe M. Might be less HP than stock, but it raises the excitement level for me on a grand scale. Whenever I press the pedal or make down-shifts, it makes me feel as if I was driving something even more special.

Great post. I think people seem to sometimes get too stuck with numbers versus trying something new. One thing I miss about the k&n is the switch to vtec. I need not look at the rpm gauge I just listen... I like both intakes fwiw but call me crazy if you will, the k&n intake pulled hard.
 
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I have been working with Shad/Driving Ambition for many years and have never heard him recommend anything other than the OEM airbox with CT Unifilter for N/A cars. We did a baseline dyno on my car with all the usual bolt-ons and saw 261 rwhp.

When we installed the CTSC, we initially dynoed the car with the stock airbox/unifilter and saw 385 rwhp. We then installed a CT carbon airbox with the same unifilter and the engine immediately made 406 rwhp with no other modifications. +21 rwhp, draw your own conclusions.

Nowhere in the conversation was the K&N ever considered. IMHO, they are good for some application, but NOT for the NSX. N/A - stock airbox. F/I - CT airbox
 
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I have been working with Shad/Driving Ambition for many years and have never heard him recommend anything other than the OEM airbox with CT Unifilter for N/A cars. We did a baseline dyno on my car with all the usual bolt-ons and saw 261 rwhp.

When we installed the CTSC, we initially dynoed the car with the stock airbox/unifilter and saw 385 rwhp. We then installed a CT carbon airbox with the same unifilter and the engine immediately made 406 rwhp with no other modifications. +21 rwhp, draw your own conclusions.

Nowhere in the conversation was the K&N ever considered. IMHO, they are good for some application, but NOT for the NSX. N/A - stock airbox. F/I - CT airbox

Yes I remember reading that post Rob. That is awesome you pulled another 20 hp with a ct airbox! That is amazing.
Makes me want to maybe get one. But yeah your right, Shad said on a dyno you would see zero difference in the two.
 
Yes I remember reading that post Rob. That is awesome you pulled another 20 hp with a ct airbox! That is amazing.
Makes me want to maybe get one. But yeah your right, Shad said on a dyno you would see zero difference in the two.
Apologies for the off topic conversation. The stock air box was starving my motor of air. A K&N set up would have made matters much worse.

I have no idea what kit Shad is installing on your car other than the 1.7L CTSC. Is he installing larger injectors, if so what size? Stock ECU or AEM?
Which air box works best for you really depends on the application and set up. If you are not increasing your fuelling with larger capacity injectors and sticking with the stock ecu, you will not need nor want the increased airflow of the CT airbox. Larger injectors and increased fueling means you'll need to increase air volume too = CT airbox. The dyno tune will give you an indication of whats necessary but will not fully simulate real world driving conditions. Also, if you're not planning on tracking the car and don't routinely drive at 9&10/10ths then these issues are not priorities.
 
Apologies for the off topic conversation. The stock air box was starving my motor of air. A K&N set up would have made matters much worse.

I have no idea what kit Shad is installing on your car other than the 1.7L CTSC. Is he installing larger injectors, if so what size? Stock ECU or AEM?
Which air box works best for you really depends on the application and set up. If you are not increasing your fuelling with larger capacity injectors and sticking with the stock ecu, you will not need nor want the increased airflow of the CT airbox. Larger injectors and increased fueling means you'll need to increase air volume too = CT airbox. The dyno tune will give you an indication of whats necessary but will not fully simulate real world driving conditions. Also, if you're not planning on tracking the car and don't routinely drive at 9&10/10ths then these issues are not priorities.

He is installing the 1.6 liter lysholm blower with just the standard fmu and Oem Airbox is already on the car with a Df scoop and uni filter. I imagine I will eventually go with an aem infinity system with high boost pulley and injectors.
But before I do that I am going to baffle the oil pan and change the head gasket prior to tracking it.
I won't be running the k&n intake with the ctsc unless it is raining hard and you and I both know that ain't happening around our neck of woods anytime soon.
 
...
When we installed the CTSC, we initially dynoed the car with the stock airbox/unifilter and saw 385 rwhp. We then installed a CT carbon airbox with the same unifilter and the engine immediately made 406 rwhp with no other modifications. +21 rwhp, draw your own conclusions.

Hmmm. I would want to see this reproduced by another shop before I would be willing to credit the CT airbox with a 21 HP gain, even in a supercharger application. But if it could be reproduced, well, I would want to take a good look at the geometry of the CT airbox.

Call me a neat-freak, but the biggest problem I have with those open-element and other aftermarket intakes is the loss of the clips on the side of the OEM airbox that hold the plastic vacuum hard lines in place.
 
I don't blame you for being skeptical, so was I. Our goal for my build was 400rwhp. We tried to get there first with the stock air box but we simply could not get enough air with it. I was really hoping we could get to 400 without the CT air box because that thing is not exactly a bargain. It was a very hot day (mid 90's) and Shad's old shop is at altitude (1500+ft. +/-) and I'm sure this was also a factor.
 
Rob,
I have a question for you. You had the Dali racing hot chip in your ecu and your build thread says your still on the Oem ecu is that correct? Did Shad remove it or keep it installed when tuning your car? I'd be very interested to know if it means I could pick up some more ponies on my ctsc without loosing all of my emission controls and sensors. Also, did Shad ever say how much more ponies you picked up with the bigger throttle body? Also very interested to hear about that too.
Thanks.


I don't blame you for being skeptical, so was I. Our goal for my build was 400rwhp. We tried to get there first with the stock air box but we simply could not get enough air with it. I was really hoping we could get to 400 without the CT air box because that thing is not exactly a bargain. It was a very hot day (mid 90's) and Shad's old shop is at altitude (1500+ft. +/-) and I'm sure this was also a factor.
 
Rob,
I have a question for you. You had the Dali racing hot chip in your ecu and your build thread says your still on the Oem ecu is that correct? Did Shad remove it or keep it installed when tuning your car? I'd be very interested to know if it means I could pick up some more ponies on my ctsc without loosing all of my emission controls and sensors. Also, did Shad ever say how much more ponies you picked up with the bigger throttle body? Also very interested to hear about that too.
Thanks.
I have an AEM FIC unit. The Dali chip and IIRC any other performance chip for that matter is not compatible with your CTSC. The Dali throttle body improves throttle response and probably assisted us to get to 400rwhp, but by itself I doubt it increases power output. Its all about combinations, proper packaging and an experienced tuner. On the latter, you could not be in better hands. The waiting must be killing you...:tongue:

Also, I'm running the 2.3L CTSC w/9lbs. boost, not the 1.6L
 
Yes. It is killing me! While I restrain from rushing the zen master, I hope he is reading my posts and hearing of my desire to get behind that wheel.
I have an AEM FIC unit. The Dali chip and IIRC any other performance chip for that matter is not compatible with your CTSC. The Dali throttle body improves throttle response and probably assisted us to get to 400rwhp, but by itself I doubt it increases power output. Its all about combinations, proper packaging and an experienced tuner. On the latter, you could not be in better hands. The waiting must be killing you...:tongue:

Also, I'm running the 2.3L CTSC w/9lbs. boost, not the 1.6L
 
Yes. It is killing me! While I restrain from rushing the zen master, I hope he is reading my posts and hearing of my desire to get behind that wheel.
Patients, don't call him. Wait for him to call you. It will be worth the wait. The longer you wait, the longer you get to hold on to Shad's money...:tongue:

Shad doesn't spend much time on Prime these days but I did get a hilarious phone call from him after I posted the in-car video from Sears Point. His first words were: "Who the hell was driving my NSX out there?!?!" He was referring to Armando's off-track adventures...
 
He is lurking on here. He has seen some of my posts. I only called him once in two weeks just to check up. He told me about the race cars issues and needs of fix. I told him, from a mechanic to mechanic talk, I understand and when it rains it pours. I did ask if he can pretty pleez have it ready by this Saturday. But he is also doing all seals top side of the block and changing the ugly red silicone tubing back to Oem black with a fluid change and abs bleed.So he has a lot of stuff to do. Chop chop:)
Patients, don't call him. Wait for him to call you. It will be worth the wait. The longer you wait, the longer you get to hold on to Shad's money...:tongue:

Shad doesn't spend much time on Prime these days but I did get a hilarious phone call from him after I posted the in-car video from Sears Point. His first words were: "Who the hell was driving my NSX out there?!?!" He was referring to Armando's off-track adventures...
 
have an NSX in my shop right now that HAD the K&N gimmick installed after taking the intake manifold off there was about an inch of sludge on every parts of the intake, then you look down inside the pistons with my bore scope and its a sad sight.

the fuel injectors were almost completely covered in gunk, the airfilter tube leading to the throttlebody was caked on like I have never seen, the vacuum hoses when you took them off and put an air hose to them it looked like snot hitting the ground. the intake Air intake sensor was so thick I had to scrap it off with a razor

I have always wanted to try the K&N filter but after seeing what it could do if not cleaned on time I will PASS and run from it.

that crap is not going in my NSX nope.. naa... forgetaboutit....

OEM and never worry again.... aftermarket non OEM will hurt your wallet in the beginning and rape your wallet at the end when removed
 
Like any aftermarket filter it would have to have the right amount of oil to catch dust particles but not have too much that the excess oil goes into the system, also it needs to be cleaned on a regular basis otherwise the above will happen. I think those comments above sound like someone has not done any of that.
If any of you have owned a dirt bike and used it as intended cleaning the air filter after each ride is mandatory and putting just enough oil and not too much is part of that routine otherwise starting and running become difficult. If you are not prepared to do that then OEM is your only option.
 
yes I think the problem was to much as there was a pool of oil filled at the bottom of his CF airbox so if not cleaned regularly your screwed
 
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